Widening Alcoa Wheels

evasive

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The R888 will run wider than most other tires but you will get minimal bulge on the 11.5. I mainly went 11.75 in the event I was going to try a 335.
 

evasive

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I already had QA-1 rear shocks which don't have a dust boot. I had the bump stop bracket removed (3 spot welds...easy) and used Ford Racing Performance Parts bump stops and the bump stop relocation kit. I also already had an adjustable panhard rod. Nothing that can't be reversed.
 

biminiLX

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I would like to know what tire fits best on the 11.5 widened Alcoa with minimal to no bulge or stretch, can't stand either.
Do you want a DR or sticky street tire? Does your car have a gear and does the tire height matter to you?
You can run 315/35/20s in Nitto NT05, NT05Rs or Michelin Pilot SS
305/35/20 in Nitto NT555R or MT ET Street Radial IIs
315/30/20 Toyo R888
Those are the most common options I considered.
I don't have an issue with bulge on the NT05R an 11" so 11.5" would be fine.
-J
 

psucobra

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Do you want a DR or sticky street tire? Does your car have a gear and does the tire height matter to you?
You can run 315/35/20s in Nitto NT05, NT05Rs or Michelin Pilot SS
305/35/20 in Nitto NT555R or MT ET Street Radial IIs
315/30/20 Toyo R888
Those are the most common options I considered.
I don't have an issue with bulge on the NT05R an 11" so 11.5" would be fine.
-J

Yes, tire height matters in the sense that I would like to stay as close to the stock height as possible to avoid speedometer issues and have relatively equal sidewalls back and front.

I like the Toyo R888s for the back. Not sure if Toyo makes a tire for the front that would match somewhat. Seems like most guys go with a different brand up front like the MPSSs.

I would like to see what size Michelin PSSs the guys with the 11.5 Alcoas are running front and back.
 

biminiLX

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What gear do you run? Do you have a tuner to adjust speedo?
I've always had success with Toyos, would gladly try the R888s but I can't stand mismatched tires.
I'm happy with my set-up (275/35/20 NT05 front 315/35/20 NT05R rear with a 4.10 to compensate for the taller DRs). I have an SCT xcal to adjust speedo.
MPSS is the best summer non-DR tire, I run them on my AMG. You can do the same sizes I run but in MPSS.
And ignore the speedo :)
-J
 

Robert M

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Yes, tire height matters in the sense that I would like to stay as close to the stock height as possible to avoid speedometer issues and have relatively equal sidewalls back and front.

I like the Toyo R888s for the back. Not sure if Toyo makes a tire for the front that would match somewhat.

I have gathered all kinds of tire/wheel pictures for comparison purposes when I was doing my Alcoa widening project.

Not Alcoa's or a GT500 - Below is a 285/35 and 315/30 R888 set-up on 10" fronts and 12" (may have been 11.75") rears. The owner had no issues with the front 285 touching the strut, although I know it was real close (because my 275/35 is) and no lock to lock contact.


IMG_1955.jpg


experiment_2.jpg


IMG_1966.jpg


^^^^Very Cool looking set-up! :thumbsup:

I agree, I don't care for mismatched tires either................


R
 
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psucobra

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What gear do you run? Do you have a tuner to adjust speedo?
I've always had success with Toyos, would gladly try the R888s but I can't stand mismatched tires.
I'm happy with my set-up (275/35/20 NT05 front 315/35/20 NT05R rear with a 4.10 to compensate for the taller DRs). I have an SCT xcal to adjust speedo.
MPSS is the best summer non-DR tire, I run them on my AMG. You can do the same sizes I run but in MPSS.
And ignore the speedo :)
-J

The Alcoas will be going on a 2014 GT500, stock gears. It's a shame Toyo doesn't make the T1R Proxes in a 275/35/20 as they would match well with the R888s. They do make a 275/30/20 in the TR1 though.
I may just end up going with the MPSSs like you suggested in 275/35/20 and 305/35/20 on the 10's and 11.5s and call it a a day. I also would prefer to stay with the same brand all the way around.
 

biminiLX

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I run the MPSS on my DD AMG and they are well worth the extra $$$.
You may not want a tire much taller than stock, Ford already dropped the ball with the 3.31 stock gears, 3.73 from the previous PP would have been much better (I'll pick up my car on Tues with 4.10s BTW)
-J
 

Robert M

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Does anyone have a picture of a GT500 with alcoas with 315/35/20 drag radials?

I do not have pictures of that set up. The 305/35 is approx. .50" taller than stock (if I remember correctly, its been a while), and the 315/35 will be even taller. At the 305/35 diameter with a Pirelli P Zero a Super Snake owner with 10" Alcoa's had to raise his car because of tire to fender contact in some situations and the use of his back seat was limited. It would only be worse with a taller 315/35.



R
 
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biminiLX

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Does anyone have a picture of a GT500 with alcoas with 315/35/20 drag radials?

See link I posted earlier. I couldn't get a good rear rubber shot with the shadows but check the pics out at end of thread I linked. Very aggressive tread and sidewall blocks and match front NT05.
-J
 

Robert M

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See link I posted earlier. I couldn't get a good rear rubber shot with the shadows but check the pics out at end of thread I linked. Very aggressive tread and sidewall blocks and match front NT05.
-J

J - Your car looks Good. Is the front tread sticking out past the front fender sheet metal? When my car came back from Las Vegas mine were that way, especially the right front. I brought my car to a friend at a local Ford dealership and they were able to pull both front 10" Alcoa's with 275/35's in at the top just a little bit to get them even with, or just inside the fender sheet metal but still be within factory Ford specs for the front alignment. This also meant that the tire was positioned closer to the strut, but it clears with a small amount of extra room. Getting my front tires to a position where they were not sticking out on either side, while still clearing the strut without installing CC plates. That was my goal. :thumbsup:

Yours may not be, but I wasn't sure when looking down the side, so I thought I would mention it.


R
 
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JLD

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See link I posted earlier. I couldn't get a good rear rubber shot with the shadows but check the pics out at end of thread I linked. Very aggressive tread and sidewall blocks and match front NT05.
-J

Thanks for all the help your photos sealed the deal I'm going with 11.5 wide aloca wheels with 315/35/20 NT05 drag raidals
 

evasive

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biminiLX - is your car lowered with the NT05 setup?
 

biminiLX

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J - Your car looks Good. Is the front tread sticking out past the front fender sheet metal? When my car came back from Las Vegas mine were that way, especially the right front. I brought my car to a friend at a local Ford dealership and they were able to pull both front 10" Alcoa's with 275/35's in at the top just a little bit to get them even with, or just inside the fender sheet metal but still be within factory Ford specs for the front alignment. This also meant that the tire was positioned closer to the strut, but it clears with a small amount of extra room. Getting my front tires to a position where they were not sticking out on either side, while still clearing the strut without installing CC plates. That was my goal. :thumbsup:

Yours may not be, but I wasn't sure when looking down the side, so I thought I would mention it.


R

No I think its just the angle, but it is exactly flush, right on the fender.
I think it will look better when lowered with the FRPP springs. Will be doing lowering and Van's BMR suspension next, picking up tues with 4.10s due to gear whine. I'll give it a few miles to make sure its fixed before more mods.
-J
 

biminiLX

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Thanks for all the help your photos sealed the deal I'm going with 11.5 wide aloca wheels with 315/35/20 NT05 drag raidals

No problem, I'm very happy with the tires, rides and grips way better than the OEM GYs.
-J
 

Robert M

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No I think its just the angle, but it is exactly flush, right on the fender.
I think it will look better when lowered with the FRPP springs. Will be doing lowering and Van's BMR suspension next, picking up tues with 4.10s due to gear whine. I'll give it a few miles to make sure its fixed before more mods.
-J

I mentioned "tire tread" sticking out in my previous question, I really meant tire bulge beyond the fender sheet metal, it was the tire bulge that I wanted pulled in on mine so no rubber was sticking out up front.

You are right, lowering will make a difference.

So for my Alcoa picture archive you have 275/35 Nitto NT05 on 9" up front? and 315/35 NT05R on 11" or 11.5" rear?

passsidealcoa1_zps26b541141_zps1bae2ff0.jpg



Thanks, R
 

biminiLX

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Yes sir, you are correct 275/35/20 NT05 on 9" and 315/35/20 NT05R on 11".
I don't think either bulge and I like a little bulge and flush mount. I think they made the Alcoas almost too aggressive, but I'll take it :)
I'm loading some pics my friend took while we spectated at the drag strip, shows the tires a little more and different angles.
-J
 

Robert M

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Yes sir, you are correct 275/35/20 NT05 on 9" and 315/35/20 NT05R on 11".
I don't think either bulge and I like a little bulge and flush mount. I think they made the Alcoas almost too aggressive, but I'll take it :)
I'm loading some pics my friend took while we spectated at the drag strip, shows the tires a little more and different angles.
-J

Yes, the Alcoa itself is aggressive (out to the fender edge), there is nothing to be done on the rear except to work the tire bulge with the rim width, but the front can be adjusted with the strut. I couldn't believe that the white GT I have shown above was able to tuck the fronts with a 285, I know I got my 10"/275/35 tucked, but it was close. A 275/35 9" rim should be no problem at all to tuck under the fender and still stay within Ford alignment specs.


One other thing I found when my tires were out to the edge and past on the front, it limited my ability to lower the nose of the car to where I wanted to be and give the car a nice stance, the more aggressive lower in the front look.


R
 
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