TOB Adjustment Issues

[Patriot Guy]

Posted the below thread to an on going thread and was advised to check into a new pivot ball. Did a little research and DO NOT want to have to take my tranny in and out to adjust this. Have also researched an adjustable cable. Any assistance or information would be greatly appreciated.

"I replaced my Spec 3+ about 3 weeks ago with a stage 2+ while I was replacing the bad throw out bearing which was seized. I have the LDC spring Mod, Fiore firewall adjuster and new stock cable. Have adjusted this thing all the way up and down and still have the TOB squeal like I had with the Spec 3+. The TOB I installed with the Sec Stage 3+ only lasted about 15k miles and I don't want to change this one in another 15K miles. Has anyone tried to bend the shift fork back a bit to keep it off the PP? Is there an aftermarket Shift Fork with a different geometry to keep it off the PP? The squeal is driving me nuts."

 

[Avispa]

I don't think there are any aftermarket forks with different geometry than the factory fork. The preferred fix is an adjustable pivot ball, even if you don't want to pull the trans again. DONT bend the fork. It will become weak, will bend back because bending it will disturb the reinforcing structure of the fork metal and it will ultimately break. I'm running a Spec 2+ right now, and I put 3 washers under the stock pivot ball to keep the fork geometry right.

If you're using the TOB that came with the clutch, pitch it in the trash and use a FRPP bearing. They can ride on the PP for tens of thousands of miles as long as the preload isn't too high, just the way the stock quadrant and cable self-adjust.

Not that a Terminator owner would ever be a Ford basher, but this is one item Ford completely, totally F'd up since, well, forever. The proper place for the pivot ball is on the other side of the TOB so the fork is pushed rather than pulled. That way the fork never contacts the PP. The General did that one correctly.

 

[Jduane]

I don't think there are any aftermarket forks with different geometry than the factory fork. The preferred fix is an adjustable pivot ball, even if you don't want to pull the trans again. DONT bend the fork. It will become weak, will bend back because bending it will disturb the reinforcing structure of the fork metal and it will ultimately break. I'm running a Spec 2+ right now, and I put 3 washers under the stock pivot ball to keep the fork geometry right.

If you're using the TOB that came with the clutch, pitch it in the trash and use a FRPP bearing. They can ride on the PP for tens of thousands of miles as long as the preload isn't too high, just the way the stock quadrant and cable self-adjust.

Not that a Terminator owner would ever be a Ford basher, but this is one item Ford completely, totally F'd up since, well, forever. The proper place for the pivot ball is on the other side of the TOB so the fork is pushed rather than pulled. That way the fork never contacts the PP. The General did that one correctly.

What size and type of washers did you use behind the pivot ball??

 

[Avispa]

What size and type of washers did you use behind the pivot ball??

Lol...what I had in my parts bin so not sure exactly. Standard stamped flat washers about 1/16 inch thick, and a hole for about a 3/8" diameter bolt.

 

[Jduane]

Lol...what I had in my parts bin so not sure exactly. Standard stamped flat washers about 1/16 inch thick, and a hole for about a 3/8" diameter bolt.

Was you having to much freeplay in the clutch fork or cable or what???

 

[Avispa]

Actually, I didn't have enough pedal/cable travel. Lengthening the pivot ball will increase the amount of pedal travel before you run out of cable adjustment.

The factory clutch had worn to the point where it would start to grab with the pedal near the floor and the factory auto adjuster and quadrant wouldn't hold the adjustment. Replaced the cable and quadrant with FRPP aluminum quadrant and adjustable cable, but put the washers on the pivot ball to be on the safe side and add some cable travel distance.

BTW, other posters on here have recommended using a firewall adjuster with a stock cable. I have to agree. The first FRPP adjustable cable failed in less than a week. The sheath armor collapsed into the plastic firewall flange. See the pic. It's at the quadrant end of the cable.

 

[Jduane]

Actually, I didn't have enough pedal/cable travel. Lengthening the pivot ball will increase the amount of pedal travel before you run out of cable adjustment.

The factory clutch had worn to the point where it would start to grab with the pedal near the floor and the factory auto adjuster and quadrant wouldn't hold the adjustment. Replaced the cable and quadrant with FRPP aluminum quadrant and adjustable cable, but put the washers on the pivot ball to be on the safe side and add some cable travel distance.

BTW, other posters on here have recommended using a firewall adjuster with a stock cable. I have to agree. The first FRPP adjustable cable failed in less than a week. The sheath armor collapsed into the plastic firewall flange. See the pic. It's at the quadrant end of the cable.

so you went back with oem cable and what kind of quadrant???

 

[Avispa]

I just replaced the failed adjustable cable with another one from Ford. The quadrant is from Ford, too. Still working fine after 2 years and about 25,000 miles.

 

[whi tri]

I have had nothing but trouble with adjustable cables. I went back to a stock cable and with a firewall adjuster and triple hook and frpp tb I finally have no more issues.

 

[Jduane]

I have had nothing but trouble with adjustable cables. I went back to a stock cable and with a firewall adjuster and triple hook and frpp tb I finally have no more issues.

what issues were you having exactly???