Project Slow and Steady - turbo 98 cobra

98cobra#1222

that's just my game
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First I would like to introduce myself as I don't post all that often. My name is Kevin and I am currently working as a combustion and performance engineer, but my real passion is in motorsport and building cars. I figured that since I have reached about the half way point I figured now would be a good time to post my progress and get some feedback. I have some questions so I look forward to some of your guy's input. So I purchased the car back in 2006 while in high school, and left it relatively stock for the entirety of school and most of college. The car became my daily driver while going to Purdue, as my other car was more of a project at the time. So after graduating and getting situated I parked the car to begin my build. So officially the project started around August 2013 with the removal of the engine.

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I sent the engine to a local engine builder out of St. Paul, Indiana. After consulting with him we decided on a direction and ended up with what I hope will be a strong reliable engine.

Engine has the following:
-Diamond dished 2618 pistons (-11cc)
-Manley H beam rods with ARP2000 rod bolts
-Stock micro polished crank
-ARP main studs
-ARP side bolts
-ARP crank balancer bolt
-ARP head studs
-Manley SS intake and exhaust valves
-New valve springs
-Valve job/bowl port
-New water pump
-TSS billet oil pump
-New ford timing chains/tensioners/gears

Other engine parts:
-COP conversion
-Underdrive pulleys
-MMR IMRC delete plates

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While the engine was at the builder I went ahead and tore the interior out to install a MM 6pt roll bar

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Also decided to make a rear seat delete. Delete consists of 1/4" MDF and a roll or black carpet. I decided to make my own to try and get the rear to sit flush with the back panels and also I didn't want to pay 100+ dollars for one. I think it turned out ok but there is some changes I would make if I was to do it again.

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Next area I focused on was the front suspension, mostly because I needed to get the car rolling again as my wife and I moved to a different house. I purchased a UPR chrome moly k member and coilover kit for the front. I plan on also running coilovers in the rear but can't decide on whether to buy the upr kit and put in springs from maximum motorsports and also swap the front springs, or to buy MM rear coilovers and eventually upgrade the fronts to MM as well. I plan to let the car see a road course from time to time so the UPR springs will not work. But this is an area I'll come back to after the car is running.

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I also cleaned and painted my brake calipers.

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Since moving my wife and I were blessed with our first child, so the car got put on the back burners for a while. Not being as able to work on it didn't stop me from stocking up on parts though. So I was able to get my hand on a set of chrome Saleen lemans.

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I am going to send the rears off to weldcraft to have them widened to 10.5". I also picked up some speedhut gauges on sale.

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This led me to make a relay board to power the gauges, which I am still in the middle of installing. My next purchase was a turbonetics 7868 turbo, I picked it up for a price I couldn't let go.

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That pretty much catches the project up to this point. So the most recent project has been the coolant system. I purchased an on3 crossover delete kit along with some fragola AN fittings and black nylon braided hose.

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So at this point I need to pick up the rest of the parts I need to finish the car. My list at this point is:
-t56 magnum
-mcleod rxt clutch
-mcleod flywheel
-build the rear end with 31 spline axles and weld the tubes
-rear coil overs
-glenn's performance fuel system
-turbo hot side/ cold side
-FX1 pro seats
-wideband o2

I am sure I missed something...


-Kevin
 
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Tabres

Not without incident
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Very similar build to mine, even down to some of the details. Looks like you're doing a great job! You won't be disappointed when you're finished.

My perspective, I would encourage you to spend the extra money for the Maximum Motorsports components for your suspension. You won't regret it.
 

98cobra#1222

that's just my game
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Messages
613
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Greensburg, Indiana, United States
Very similar build to mine, even down to some of the details. Looks like you're doing a great job! You won't be disappointed when you're finished.

My perspective, I would encourage you to spend the extra money for the Maximum Motorsports components for your suspension. You won't regret it.

I was very impressed with the fit and finish of the roll bar from Maximum Motorsports so I am sure I will be equally impressed with their suspension bits. I am thinking the suspension will be a project that I tackle one winter after the car is running. That will help me with budgeting now and allow me to purchase and save the parts up over the course of a summer. Our builds are very similar, I actually couldn't believe when I came across your build on here at how many things your car had that I had penciled on some old notes to do to mine haha. Thanks for the kind words! :beer:
 

Tabres

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Get it running and we'll have to meet up sometime. You're not that far and I'm through Indy a few times a year :beer:
 

F8L BYT

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Whoa Whoa Whoa..... You're in Greensburg? I'm from Columbus. I know Justin Kieffer from there and Kane Robbins. Looks like an awesome build! Who did you have do your engine? and if you don't mind me asking how much did you have in the engine build only
 

98cobra#1222

that's just my game
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Messages
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Greensburg, Indiana, United States
Get it running and we'll have to meet up sometime. You're not that far and I'm through Indy a few times a year :beer:

Sounds like a plan, hopefully the car doesn't take to long to get back on the road.

Whoa Whoa Whoa..... You're in Greensburg? I'm from Columbus. I know Justin Kieffer from there and Kane Robbins. Looks like an awesome build! Who did you have do your engine? and if you don't mind me asking how much did you have in the engine build only

I actually work in Columbus, I know Kieffer a little and actually went to school with Kane. Williams Precision Engines did the motor, he runs a small shop but does some incredible work. I have a little over six in the engine, not including some of the bolt on's that aren't necessary. But it was a high mile engine that needed a good amount of work and we went with some custom pistons which added a good amount to it. Where at in Columbus are you, I feel I have a good eye for spotting SNs and I can't think of a time I've seen a BAB running around.
 

98cobra#1222

that's just my game
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So progress has been at a snails pace. My wife and I purchased our first house so money has been beyond tight. That combined with my son turning one soon has bled all my spare time so working on the car hasn't happened much. I was able to source some more parts though, letting my parts pile stack up.

Export tails

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New corner lights

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Also grabbed some aerocatch hood pins and some detailing supplies. This week I'm planning to send my wheels out to be widened as well as place an order for the turbo kit.

So hopefully some worthwhile updates are in the near future.
 
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DVJ38

One mod at a time
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Great build. Sounds like you're doing it right, even if it is taking longer than you wanted. Thanks for posting it all.

Love the choice in rims btw.
 

98cobra#1222

that's just my game
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Placed an order for a 4v ff turbo kit from on3 through poweraddersolutions.com. Can't say enough about the customer service and communication these guys have at power adder. I ordered the kit without the turbo as I already have a turbonetics 7868 that I will use. I also went ahead and got upgraded v band clamps for the install.


My son was as excited as I was, only he was more interested in the boxes themselves not so much for the contents haha.

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Here is the turbo that will be put to use.

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Took a while to get everything unpacked and laid out but it all seems to be there and in good order. The true test of course will come when I try to install it all.

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Decided to wrap the merge pipe and passenger side pipe to try and protect and wiring and plastic components in the engine bay. I will also be wrapping the downpipe as far back as I can before I run out of wrap. I purchased a 2"x 50' DEI wrap from summit and some stainless zip ties from cable ties and more.

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Merge pipe before:

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The wrap was really quite easy to work with, just needs a lot of patience to get the overlap looking ok and as tight as possible.

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Nearly finished. I ran out of time last night so I need to just wrap the last bend and it is done.

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Knocking out the passenger side pipe was easy though being relatively straight.

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Plans for the weekend will be dropping the k member and engine back out to paint some of the bay. Also mounting the headers will be a lot easier with the engine dropped. Planning to order the fuel system in the coming weeks so I can map out and run the fuel lines and hopefully by the end of summer start the car on a start-up tune and seat the rings while I save up for the transmission and clutch to finish out the drivetrain.
 

04DeadShort

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Cool build you got going on here. Im slowly putting together my build too. Im going with a "c" head setup fed with a Vortech. Like you, I got a 3yr daughter and a little boy on the way so it is truly slow going. How much HP are you shooting for?
 

98cobra#1222

that's just my game
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Cool build you got going on here. Im slowly putting together my build too. Im going with a "c" head setup fed with a Vortech. Like you, I got a 3yr daughter and a little boy on the way so it is truly slow going. How much HP are you shooting for?

Thanks, sometimes slow builds are for the best. Gives plenty of time for research and small detail oriented projects. Do you have a build thread anywhere? C head and a vortech will be fun, I really thought hard about a centri but then just decided on single turbo. I built a '77 datsun 280z and put in a l28et with a larger turbo and all kinds of supporting stuff so after that I was hooked on turbos. Congratulations on the little one on the way!

I'm planning to run 20-22 lbs of boost and e85 so whatever the car decides to put out is fine with me, no real number that I am shooting for. Seeing other builds that are similar to this one I am guessing it will make 730-760 hp.
 

04DeadShort

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Nah I dont have a build thread yet. I will start one when all the parts start going together. Only reason I'm going centri is cause I already have one. Its a s-trim that I plan to upgrade to either a Si or T-trim. Im gonna run 98 cams on the C heads and shoot for about 17-19 psi. I hope for a little over 600hp. I really wish we had E85 around here, maybe soon. Good luck on your build. I will be watching as you piece it along.
 

98cobra#1222

that's just my game
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Not to many updates, this last month has been put on hold waiting on v band clamps from RPS. The clamps that came with the on3 kit were/are impossible to get on the hot pipes. I was able to get some small tasks completed while I wait though.

First up was punching the oil pan for my turbo oil return line.

Items used:
1) Hammer
2) Punch set
3) 3/8th NPT tap
4) All purpose grease
5) magnet
6) 3/8th to -10AN fitting
7) Oil drain line

First step was to remove the paint from the oil pan and make out the location of the hole. I used the directions from Vortech that can be found here:

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/images/7.pdf

specifically page 12.

After marking the oil pan I used a small punch to start the hole and then stepped it out to the final size using a 17/32" punch.
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Once the hole was punched out with the 17/32" punch I packed the flutes of the tap with grease to catch metal shavings as the tap cuts the treads into the oil pan. This process took some time as I cleaned out the grease and replaced it with new grease after a couple of turns to be sure no chips fell into the pan. I also used the magnet to clean out chips that were left in the threads. I will run oil into the drain hose to flush any possible chips down and out of the pan before I fill the engine with oil for start-up.
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I then threaded in my AN to NPT fitting and test fit my half assembled oil drain line, to be sure I had clearance between the oil pan flange and the fitting so I could tighten it. All seems good with around a 1/8" to 1/4" of clearance between the AN fitting and the crankshaft pulley.
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Final step was to paint the bare metal around the oil drain fitting with some semi gloss black.

While I am still waiting on v bands to ship I decided to mock up the hotside with the clamps I have, that are to shallow. I put the hotside in and turbo on to measure for the oil drain line and assemble the rest of it. I was also able to finish installing the fuel injectors and fuel rails. Had to cut down the intake manifold bolts, the ones used to retain the wiring harness clips, to let the rails fully seat the injectors.

Turbo oil drain finally fully assembled.
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Turbo hot side mocked up.
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I still need to move the radiator forward, I am trying to figure out a way to retain AC if I can. I never really use it so if I can't it's certainly not the end of the world, but with a black car and black interior it can get really uncomfortable really quick without it. Has anybody moved the radiator up about 1/2" or so and also kept the AC condenser?
 

04DeadShort

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Why do you need to move the the radiator forward and what is the issue with the AC? Im just curous because I'm thinking of going the turbo route on my build. My AC currently works fine with the S trim I have on it now. What is you impression so far with the On3 kit? Build looks great!
 

98cobra#1222

that's just my game
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Why do you need to move the the radiator forward and what is the issue with the AC? Im just curous because I'm thinking of going the turbo route on my build. My AC currently works fine with the S trim I have on it now. What is you impression so far with the On3 kit? Build looks great!

The turbo kit was designed around the 70mm turbo so with me running a 78 there just isn't enough room. The compressor housing just barely touches the fan shroud, so its either trim the shroud, run a slim fan, or move the radiator forward a hair. I would rather keep the stock fan and shroud so that leaves me with just one option. Problem is moving the radiator means moving the AC condenser forward, assuming there will be room. So I will more then likely need custom AC lines if I can figure out a good spot to move everything. I may just end up ditching AC as I have only used it a handful of times in the last 9 years. I believe there are a couple of guys running 76mm turbos that seem to fit just barely with no fan interference.

My initial impressions are good. Everything seems to fit after proper adjustment, the key is leaving it all loose and tightening a little at a time to bring everything up together. I think a lot of people have issues when the tighten one thing down, which is a little out of place, then try to tighten the next piece down stream. With the lack of space in the engine compartment you have to be careful with letting small miss-alignments stack up into large problems. I really think it will all go together just fine but upgraded v band clamps are key, like I said the ones that came with the kit wouldn't work at all. Also I am confident that any turbo kit will need some tweaking and grinding to get them to fit your particular car, it seems to just be how it goes. :D
 

04DeadShort

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Your right, I learned early on to leave things loose and make everything gets mocked up before the torquing begins. Im not sure if your familiar with the Corral forum but there is a interesting thread talking about aftermarket dampers. It is in the mod motor section under svt & dohc. It is a sticky. I can send you a link if your interested.
 

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