Bummed - 2017 auto GT barely does burnout...

Monster5.0

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This is not a troll post. I got my 2017 auto GT about a month ago. Its new, currently 1900 miles on the odo. I have been driving it hard, but not too hard. No track days, just daily duty. This is my first auto mustang. I had 3 other 5.0s S197 cars all manual.

So this weekend I was out and wanted to see what it had so to speak. I didnt use linelock, shouldn't have to. With the car in sport+/advance track off and in 1st, it would barely turn the tires while on the brake. I sat there as they leasurely spun for a few seconds. I gave up as it was gaining speed. This seems silly. This car should be able to blow them off from the pedal stab...no?

To compare, I traded in a 2017 charger daytona 392, and that car had 275 wide tires. It would straight blow the tires off from a slow roll or a brake torque. I know the GT has less power, but its also like 800lbs lighter.

So what next?? Sure add power, but is this common for an auto GT to be this weak? It was about an 80* day, and I was on flat asphalt.

The car is bone stock for now. Any opinions would be appreciated, except the troll kind.
 

Shaun@AED

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Actually you DO have to use the link lock. There is a safety feature that kills power when the brakes are applied. IE, no brake pedal (line lock activated) = full burnout without issues. If you put your foot on the brake the ECU will not allow full power to the rear tires.
This is a safety feature for those rare instances people hit the brake and the gas pedal at the same time and end up driving thru the local Starbucks front door.
 

GNBRETT

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yea bro u hit the pedal and try to brake boost it aint happening.... line lock is activated for 15 seconds so u got 15 seconds to burn ur tires.
 

Monster5.0

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Ahaha are you guys kidding...? That is funny, and makes sense.

So at the track you have to use line lock when doing the burnout?? That sucks. Shaun, I assume you have some tuning magic that defeats this in say a race tune?? Im also bummed about the shifting speed and power. My daytona 392 would hit so hard between gears, and the paddles were almost instant.
 

Shaun@AED

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Ahaha are you guys kidding...? That is funny, and makes sense.

So at the track you have to use line lock when doing the burnout?? That sucks. Shaun, I assume you have some tuning magic that defeats this in say a race tune?? Im also bummed about the shifting speed and power. My daytona 392 would hit so hard between gears, and the paddles were almost instant.

I can do a burnout without the linelock yes, but the brakes even on the non-option GT are massive and powerful and drag down the engine significantly. What I've done is start my burnout with very little brake, then let off completely and keep RPM's up, doing a John Force style burnout thru the lights. If you do this you'll have to make sure Advance track is fully disabled or it will not work.

Unlike the older cars we do not have access to the switch to disable ABS interferance with the 15+ so I do not have a 'Drag Race' tune like we do for the older cars, however there is a plug under the hood on the driver side fender next to the air box that you can disconnect which will effectively do the same thing. The drawback is it also disables the Line lock feature.
 

JeffAdd

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yeah i get shit from my chevy buddies that my coyote will not even turn the tires without going thru all these steps to unlock the power. /shrug its kind of funny but as i tell them that the goal is to get the power to the ground not sit and spin tires after all.
 

DarkMach1

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IDK what ya'll are talking about. A coyote does not have to be in linelock to do a burnout. I do my burnouts at the track with drag radials without linelock feature.
 

Monster5.0

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IDK what ya'll are talking about. A coyote does not have to be in linelock to do a burnout. I do my burnouts at the track with drag radials without linelock feature.
You went through the water box right?? Yeah try that on the street with no water...
 

gt5.0coyote

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My 17 v6 did a little burnout stock and it has full bolt ons now and it just lights them up. Pretty sure the brakes are different tho than a base gt in the rear.
 

Laztug

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Bummed?!
Hang in there bud! My 5.0s have no issues disrespecting an all season tire.

A tune is a must, it really helps wake these motors up.
From there, decide if you want to take FI or the bolt on route.
 

jaxbusa

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I wouldn't want to do a burnout while holding the brakes on this car. Maybe an older one with drums on the rear.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
 

Monster5.0

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I wouldn't want to do a burnout while holding the brakes on this car. Maybe an older one with drums on the rear.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

My 2017 Charger Daytona 392 would melt its rears doing a good ole fashioned brake torque. And it had stickier perellis that were 275s.
 

black99lightnin

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So I understand where you're coming from. I recently traded an 15 SRT392. Ton's of power down low and the factory trans settings are much better than the factory Mustang slow shifting trans. But that out the way, you'll find the mustang to be a decent performer especially in the high rev range, were the 392 is falling off. My 16 GT auto has been 12.3x stock on stock 235/55/18 Pirelli's. You'll find it much easier to tune the mustang, without a 2nd ECM or breaking into the factory ECM. Dodge is such a PITA to tune.
 

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