Dyno numbers not happy

Cobragixxer9994

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Long story short last year I had a 3.47 pulley on a vortech v2 SCI pushing 8 psi of boost and a cx racing a to a intercooler I believe 27 x12 x 3 dimensions 3 in 3 out.

This year I changed to a 3.33 pulley went 10 psi of boost and changed to a tread stone tr1235 a to a intercooler I believe 27 x12.5x3.5 dimensions 3 in 3 out.

Problem is I only gained 16 hp what's the problem here I though I would gain at least 25 to 30.tuned by lidio at alternative auto I've attached both dyno sheets. Please tell me if you see anything thats off.forgot to add I'm on stock bottom end but car only sees less than 2000 miles a year
20180929_090135.jpeg
20180929_090158.jpeg


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bigmoose

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Looks to me you are only making one extra psi. The reason you are seeing 2# is because it was run out more on the new setup. At 6500 rpm I only see 1# of difference. Gains look right.
 

Weather Man

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Looks to me you are only making one extra psi. The reason you are seeing 2# is because it was run out more on the new setup. At 6500 rpm I only see 1# of difference. Gains look right.

Agree.
 

Cobragixxer9994

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Going from 3.47 to 3.33 is that normal to only net 1 psi. Would going to a different intercooler drop my boost.
Can anyone tell me why the air fuel ratio seems drastically different the second run seems leaner
Alsmot like he had to run it leaner to make more power

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Deceptive

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The new intercooler could drop the boost as it is most likely less restrictive. Remember boost is a measure of restriction.


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ZeroDCX

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Agreed with the above posts.

Also we don't know the setup (6-rib vs 8-rib) nor how much timing is added between each run. If timing on the latest run is lower than the previous runs to save the shortblock, then that's understandable.

Are you sure you're not getting belt slip? 6-rib, 8-rib setup? Stock tensioner?
 

Weather Man

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You are not giving much respect to the torque improvement, quite a bit of improvement in the entire curve.
 

MG0h3

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I have my air/fuel in the low 11's with 14lbs of boost, at the mid 5K rpm range your looking north of 13, I wouldn't want to be that lean on 93 pump.

Ya that isn’t right. That’s NA AFR. You even see it lean out right around peak torque. Usually where things pop


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Stanger00

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The AFR should really be in the mid to high 11's.

Also, according to Vortech installation and parts list for a Vortech kit with aftercooler and 3.33 pulley they use a 113" belt. But the 112.3" is fine also because the graph isn't showing us any problems even though it's been smoothed.

The next pulley down is 3.125" but that would put you at 12-13 at 7k rpm. That could be an issue.

I'd ask the tuner why they couldn't get the AFR lower in the 12's and 11's. Your fuel pump could be maxed out or your MAF is pegged and the tuner isn't upping fuel pressure to compensate for the pegged MAF.

This could be lots of things.

I'd also say the power is right on par with a 10psi 4 valve.




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Cobragixxer9994

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Straight from the Tuner Not sure if it was a cold run or not. Usually I let the motors get up to operating temps before I open them up on the dyno. So I’m not sure that would have made a difference.


And the reason I may have run it leaner this year then last time is simply because I may have made the assessment that I could get away with a leaner mix (makes more power) once I realized that over all boost wasn’t crazy high and it is intrcooled too.


And removing the cat’s should safely gain a few pony’s with out requiring a re-tune.


And I hate being the guy to tell everyone this stuff,,, but sometimes you reach a point of diminishing returns depending on what you’ve changed and where you started. It’s just how it goes sometimes.




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Cobragixxer9994

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The AFR should really be in the mid to high 11's.

Also, according to Vortech installation and parts list for a Vortech kit with aftercooler and 3.33 pulley they use a 113" belt. But the 112.3" is fine also because the graph isn't showing us any problems even though it's been smoothed.

The next pulley down is 3.125" but that would put you at 12-13 at 7k rpm. That could be an issue.

I'd ask the tuner why they couldn't get the AFR lower in the 12's and 11's. Your fuel pump could be maxed out or your MAF is pegged and the tuner isn't upping fuel pressure to compensate for the pegged MAF.

This could be lots of things.

I'd also say the power is right on par with a 10psi 4 valve.




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My fuel pump shouldent be maxed I'm running 2 supercar gt pumps and I'm running a blow through maf vmp 5000

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Stanger00

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Straight from the Tuner Not sure if it was a cold run or not. Usually I let the motors get up to operating temps before I open them up on the dyno. So I’m not sure that would have made a difference.


And the reason I may have run it leaner this year then last time is simply because I may have made the assessment that I could get away with a leaner mix (makes more power) once I realized that over all boost wasn’t crazy high and it is intrcooled too.


And removing the cat’s should safely gain a few pony’s with out requiring a re-tune.


And I hate being the guy to tell everyone this stuff,,, but sometimes you reach a point of diminishing returns depending on what you’ve changed and where you started. It’s just how it goes sometimes.




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The guy gave you a hot tune to make you happy with dyno numbers and now you have a very lean mixture to run daily with pump gas that goes bad over time and will lose its octane rating. Now, you have bad gas, 100* weather and there is no way to stop detonation and by the time you experience it, it's too late. I gather this because you wrote you drive less than 2k miles a year.

Wow, the guy put in a nice statement to stop doing 'ricer' math.

My fuel pump shouldent be maxed I'm running 2 supercar gt pumps and I'm running a blow through maf vmp 5000

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Nice setup and you have plenty of fuel and MAF to cover your 10lbs of boost.


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Cobragixxer9994

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The guy gave you a hot tune to make you happy with dyno numbers and now you have a very lean mixture to run daily with pump gas that goes bad over time and will lose its octane rating. Now, you have bad gas, 100* weather and there is no way to stop detonation and by the time you experience it, it's too late. I gather this because you wrote you drive less than 2k miles a year.

Wow, the guy put in a nice statement to stop doing 'ricer' math.



Nice setup and you have plenty of fuel and MAF to cover your 10lbs of boost.


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So what do I do at this point and what do you mean by ricer math. What is a hot tune ??? Is it something I'm doing wrong or is it the tuner.Should I be concerned should I go to another tuner

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