Another oil consumption thread

jvandy50

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I sure hope you’re under the 500mi/qt threshold or you’ll be repeating that test, which means another 1k miles before your car is right. Good luck man!
 

COOL COBRA

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We've heard this so many times. Makes me wonder if the new GT500 (if it's ever built) will share the problem.
I'd be hating life if a new car was burning that much oil. Not rubbing it in, just sayin.
 

usaf_branham

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Update: I put 700ish miles on the car and took it back to the dealer this morning. They pulled the dip stick and it was bone dry. Burned around 2 or 3 quarts I guess... needless to say, I’m getting a new motor next week.
 

gimmie11s

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Update: I put 700ish miles on the car and took it back to the dealer this morning. They pulled the dip stick and it was bone dry. Burned around 2 or 3 quarts I guess... needless to say, I’m getting a new motor next week.


Holy crap. Sorry to hear man. That’s awful!


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

biminiLX

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Seems like some updates have helped this. Maybe the next version of the 5.2 block shared with 350/500 has helped? Maybe a ring, hone or piston update? Either way it seems most recent builds less effected. Glad Ford is taking care of you
-J
 

1FASFKR

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Seems like some updates have helped this. Maybe the next version of the 5.2 block shared with 350/500 has helped? Maybe a ring, hone or piston update? Either way it seems most recent builds less effected. Glad Ford is taking care of you
-J

Agreed. Just for clarification...because I don't see it posted in this thread...I see the OP bought a 17 Avalanche Grey GT350 CPO with 5k miles on it.
 

scottGT500

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Is this problem for all years? I am about to take delivery of an ‘18 R...not sure if the problem has been resolved on the newer gt350’s.

Scott
 

1FASFKR

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How did you break yours in? Mine will have @100 miles on it when it arrives...

I broke my R in the same way as 07 Black Beauty. Followed the recommended procedure as best I could. There are varying opinions in it. WVTrakPak did it differently. WVTrakPak has zero oil usage. 2300 miles on mine doing it my way and zero oil usage. One thing is for sure tho. I would sift thru the BS of those that actually have a Voodoo motor and those that don't but offer up there "expertise" like they know a shit or two about it. At the end of the day, it's your car. Live with the decision how ever it turns out.
 

gimmie11s

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I broke my R in the same way as 07 Black Beauty. Followed the recommended procedure as best I could. There are varying opinions in it. WVTrakPak did it differently. WVTrakPak has zero oil usage. 2300 miles on mine doing it my way and zero oil usage. One thing is for sure tho. I would sift thru the BS of those that actually have a Voodoo motor and those that don't but offer up there "expertise" like they know a shit or two about it. At the end of the day, it's your car. Live with the decision how ever it turns out.

Ah hahahahahahahahahahahaha!

um.gif
 

ANGREY

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Guys, let's be honest. There's enough varying data out there to suggest that it's still random and/or unidentifiable.

You should break in your engine properly, regardless of the oil consumption issue, just because it helps to prevent other issues. But the reality is, you could break the motor in properly and still burn oil. You could break the motor in properly and it burn oil soon after or long after.

You could drive it off the lot like you stole it and it not burn oil, or burn oil right away.

I happen to think the issue has more to do with cold start up and not letting the motor warm to operating temperature.

This is one of the FEW vehicles I've ever owned where I don't just jump in and go. I let it warm past idle drop (120F coolant temps) and even then, I limp it around until it's all the way up to steady state before I flog it. I'm convinced that when the aluminum pistons are cold, they shrink and the rings don't seat properly (or as well as they would otherwise) and that's one (of possibly many) issues surrounding oil burning.

I also think windage through the PCV valve is another. Extending high rpm suspends the oil and we see it in our catch cans.

But as I've pointed out numerous times, the oil isn't leaking (otherwise SOMEONE would observe leaks, oil in the back of the car, etc) and it isn't going into the coolant (otherwise tons of people would have reported it.). It's either going through the PCV valve and burned through the motor and out the exhaust, OR it's blowing by the rings and out the exhaust OR it's the valve seats and guides and being burned off. But it's definitely being burned and sent through the exhaust. It might be a combination of suspended windage, ring blow by or valve seat/guides leaking.
 

gimmie11s

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Guys, let's be honest. There's enough varying data out there to suggest that it's still random and/or unidentifiable.

You should break in your engine properly, regardless of the oil consumption issue, just because it helps to prevent other issues. But the reality is, you could break the motor in properly and still burn oil. You could break the motor in properly and it burn oil soon after or long after.

You could drive it off the lot like you stole it and it not burn oil, or burn oil right away.

Agree!

This is one of the FEW vehicles I've ever owned where I don't just jump in and go. I let it warm past idle drop (120F coolant temps) and even then, I limp it around until it's all the way up to steady state before I flog it. I'm convinced that when the aluminum pistons are cold, they shrink and the rings don't seat properly (or as well as they would otherwise) and that's one (of possibly many) issues surrounding oil burning.

Rings are steel and operate completely independent of the piston as it pertains to heating/cooling and expansion.
 

1FASFKR

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Guys, let's be honest. There's enough varying data out there to suggest that it's still random and/or unidentifiable.

You should break in your engine properly, regardless of the oil consumption issue, just because it helps to prevent other issues. But the reality is, you could break the motor in properly and still burn oil. You could break the motor in properly and it burn oil soon after or long after.

You could drive it off the lot like you stole it and it not burn oil, or burn oil right away.

I happen to think the issue has more to do with cold start up and not letting the motor warm to operating temperature.

This is one of the FEW vehicles I've ever owned where I don't just jump in and go. I let it warm past idle drop (120F coolant temps) and even then, I limp it around until it's all the way up to steady state before I flog it. I'm convinced that when the aluminum pistons are cold, they shrink and the rings don't seat properly (or as well as they would otherwise) and that's one (of possibly many) issues surrounding oil burning.

I also think windage through the PCV valve is another. Extending high rpm suspends the oil and we see it in our catch cans.

But as I've pointed out numerous times, the oil isn't leaking (otherwise SOMEONE would observe leaks, oil in the back of the car, etc) and it isn't going into the coolant (otherwise tons of people would have reported it.). It's either going through the PCV valve and burned through the motor and out the exhaust, OR it's blowing by the rings and out the exhaust OR it's the valve seats and guides and being burned off. But it's definitely being burned and sent through the exhaust. It might be a combination of suspended windage, ring blow by or valve seat/guides leaking.

Agreed. My personal opinion is you should never put a load on cold motor. I think there's a greater chance you'll get blow by doing that with the pistons not fully expanded. With 10 quarts of oil in the res, that's a lot of cold oil to pump thru before it gets warm. I personally leave the garage at about 130 degrees and stay between 2500-3000 rpm until it gets warmed to 181 degrees then I'll start driving it normally where my normal shift points are about 3700- 4000 rpm. It's game on in the 190 temps.
 

03reptile

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Guys, let's be honest. There's enough varying data out there to suggest that it's still random and/or unidentifiable.

You should break in your engine properly, regardless of the oil consumption issue, just because it helps to prevent other issues. But the reality is, you could break the motor in properly and still burn oil. You could break the motor in properly and it burn oil soon after or long after.

You could drive it off the lot like you stole it and it not burn oil, or burn oil right away.

I happen to think the issue has more to do with cold start up and not letting the motor warm to operating temperature.

This is one of the FEW vehicles I've ever owned where I don't just jump in and go. I let it warm past idle drop (120F coolant temps) and even then, I limp it around until it's all the way up to steady state before I flog it. I'm convinced that when the aluminum pistons are cold, they shrink and the rings don't seat properly (or as well as they would otherwise) and that's one (of possibly many) issues surrounding oil burning.

I also think windage through the PCV valve is another. Extending high rpm suspends the oil and we see it in our catch cans.

But as I've pointed out numerous times, the oil isn't leaking (otherwise SOMEONE would observe leaks, oil in the back of the car, etc) and it isn't going into the coolant (otherwise tons of people would have reported it.). It's either going through the PCV valve and burned through the motor and out the exhaust, OR it's blowing by the rings and out the exhaust OR it's the valve seats and guides and being burned off. But it's definitely being burned and sent through the exhaust. It might be a combination of suspended windage, ring blow by or valve seat/guides leaking.

I agree with your assessment; however, if the oil is being passed by the rings into the exhaust cycle, why wouldn't the owners see some smoke out of the exhaust? If you sit at a light, idling, and then move forward with an accompanying puff of smoke, that usually means worn valve guide seals..right? I'm not hearing anyone saying their GT350's are smoking. Weird. Maybe not enough oil is going through to be visually apparent, but it's still using enough to see it on the dip stick? I've got a 2019 GT350 ordered and waiting for delivery. Hope Ford has addressed this issue so I don't join the oil club!
 

ANGREY

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Agree!



Rings are steel and operate completely independent of the piston as it pertains to heating/cooling and expansion.

Agreed, but if the piston isn't fully swollen in the cylinder, wouldn't that effect the geometry of the ring against the cylinder wall if it slaps? If one part of the piston skirt is slapping that means the angle of the piston is not perfectly parallel to the bore. That means one side of the head is low and one side is high of perpendicular. I'm imagining even small changes in not having the piston perfectly aligned in the bore is going to create challenges for the rings to seat properly (or as it's worn to mate under steady state conditions).

I'm by no means convinced I'm right here, I'm just throwing out ideas. I wouldn't think a piston that's old and worn (or a bore that's hogged out) is gonna burn oil regardless of how new the rings are just because the geometry of the ring is changing constantly.
 

gimmie11s

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Agreed, but if the piston isn't fully swollen in the cylinder, wouldn't that effect the geometry of the ring against the cylinder wall if it slaps? If one part of the piston skirt is slapping that means the angle of the piston is not perfectly parallel to the bore. That means one side of the head is low and one side is high of perpendicular. I'm imagining even small changes in not having the piston perfectly aligned in the bore is going to create challenges for the rings to seat properly (or as it's worn to mate under steady state conditions).

I'm by no means convinced I'm right here, I'm just throwing out ideas. I wouldn't think a piston that's old and worn (or a bore that's hogged out) is gonna burn oil regardless of how new the rings are just because the geometry of the ring is changing constantly.

Its a good discussion and important to try and figure this stuff out.

In theory, that makes sense. Question is do you ever hear piston slap? Ive not heard any 350 owners reporting that problem.

Also, the amount of swelling the piston would have to experience to make this logical would be so much, you could actually see the difference in piston size cold vs. warm. That in and of itelf would present a ton of other issues. Even a motor with cold start piston slap is going to have a piston damn near perfectly perpendicular to the combustion chamber once it reaches TDC.

To test the theory, we can look to an engine design with known piston slap issues; the early Chevy LS motors. Wife's 6.0 suburban slaps every morning for a minute or two as it warms up. This motor has 192k miles and uses about 1/2 quart of 5w30 between 5000 mile oil changes which is basically nothing. In all likelihood that 1/2 quart is due to valve guide wear more so than ring wear.
 

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