Could use some help on 03 Mach 1 please

ScottAlan

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I’m trying to identify this noise it sounds funny and I’m new to the 4.6
I was told it was the timing chain but I’m lost. Any help and thoughts would be grateful.

 

Revvv

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If the noise is coming from the front of the engine, I would say timing assembly. It could be an exhaust leak, valves, or something else up up if not. If that noise is coming from the bottom of the engine, you need to have the bottom end rebuilt.

I get a mechanic's stethoscope and listen to everything possible.

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ScottAlan

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If the noise is coming from the front of the engine, I would say timing assembly. It could be an exhaust leak, valves, or something else up up if not. If that noise is coming from the bottom of the engine, you need to have the bottom end rebuilt.

I get a mechanic's stethoscope and listen to everything possible.

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Hey I just want to say thank you very much for taking the time to help me out. The noise is def coming from the top. I’m use to 94 95 gt I’ve had a few and this 4v is a entire new ball game for me.
 

Revvv

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I completely understand that. I went from all Mopar to the Modular engine. Check the oil pressure, and listen carefully around the heads. I doubt you have a fuel injector that is making that much noise, but anything is possible.

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ScottAlan

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Turns out cylinder 2 spark plus blew out and stripped the head, melted the coil which was smacking against the valve cover.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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Turns out cylinder 2 spark plus blew out and stripped the head, melted the coil which was smacking against the valve cover.

Sucks but not the worst thing in the world. Lock n stitch or time cert it, they have a mechanical means to prevent the insert from backing out unlike a helicoil. Change all the plugs while you’re at it and torque properly.
 

shurur

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As said above.

Grease the crap out of the cutter chaser to make metal filings stick to chaser as you cut....cut..clean off...grease..repeat.

Use magnet retrieval to clean it out more after done cutting.

Duct tape 5/8" hose to shop vac and vac the crap out out of it...maybe use 3/8 As Well!

Put in insert.

Start her up with plug not in..after test fit....just to blow anything else out.

Vac again..

Then put plug in..

Be meticulous.

Search youtube..svt and practice in your head a bit...
 

ScottAlan

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I wasn’t comfortable with doing that my self so I had it done.

Good news Scarlett is one the road once again.


But crap cost me around 1300

Price parts breakdown

Valve cover gasket - 97
Coil ford oem -78
Oil 7 qt of royal purple 92
8 oem motor craft plugs - 100
Motor craft oil filter - 12.99

Pretty sure I got bent over on parts

Then 370 to change valve cover
100 to do the heli coil
170 to change the plugs and do the coil
29.99 for changing the oil

And a few other things too.

Oh taking the valve cover off he had to unhook the clutch cable then tried to charge me to find the problem because the clutch wouldn’t engage. I put my foot down on that.

So about 400 in parts and 900 in labor.

Ahhhhhh pretty sure I got bent over.


Now I want to spend money on some sort of aftermarket part.

I’ve seen people say cold air intakes are pointless. But if they add any horsepower isn’t it worth it.

Right now it only has the x pipe, magnaflow mufflers and 373 gears.

I want to do headers but I’ll most likely do that after I put her up for the winter.
 

me32

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Glad the car is back together. To be honest i dont really think you got bent over. Price seems fair. Especially since your car is running good again.
 

roy_1031

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Ya I agree with the above post. If you don’t have the means knowledge or time, $1300 isn’t all that bad really. Bending you over would been you buying a new head and paying for all that labor vs the insert they did.


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Recon

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It could’ve been worse, much worse. For the record I think the price of the fix is reasonable and it’s not an engine rebuild. I’m rebuilding my engine and the price is getting up there pretty quickly. I’m going back factory for almost everything, minus the 97 Cobra cams I’m putting in since my original cams are garbage. Getting ready to get Ford timing kit that’s almost 330 bucks my cost (work at an auto shop). Kooks were on the car when I found it abandoned and broken at our friends auto repair shop.


Pick your poison.
 

ScottAlan

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Did I mention it was my family’s shop, I was suppose to get parts at his cost and a discount on labor.

I want to rebuild my engine, but I think it’s better for me to get another block put it on an engine stand and build it over time. That way my car isn’t out of commission. Would a 03 04 cobra block or short block be ok.

Also is the irs rear end that a cobra has, is it that much better then the Mach 1. Asking because I can get my hands on one for dirt cheap from the same guy I bought the car from.
 

Recon

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Ultimately it’s their shop and their decision.
I choose to save my engine because it only has 33k miles, and it’s the original engine, and my Mach is a very early production 04. Though everyone I talked to in my area told me to replace it I choose to save the engine for pretty much those reasons in the sentence above. Factoring out the prices it would’ve been cheaper to find a replacement, and I’m not even done yet.
A Terminator shortblock would only be beneficial if you decide to boost the car. Terminator’s have stronger internals but have lower compression than the Mach engines, and blocks weigh more. Mach - aluminum block. Terminator - iron block.
IRS adds around 147lbs to the rear end of the car from research I’ve done. Adds more weight to the rear so it feels more stable in corners but isn’t ideal for drag racing. I managed to pick up a complete Terminator IRS for 700. They’re the IRS to get.


Pick your poison.
 

ScottAlan

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Ultimately it’s their shop and their decision.
I choose to save my engine because it only has 33k miles, and it’s the original engine, and my Mach is a very early production 04. Though everyone I talked to in my area told me to replace it I choose to save the engine for pretty much those reasons in the sentence above. Factoring out the prices it would’ve been cheaper to find a replacement, and I’m not even done yet.
A Terminator shortblock would only be beneficial if you decide to boost the car. Terminator’s have stronger internals but have lower compression than the Mach engines, and blocks weigh more. Mach - aluminum block. Terminator - iron block.
IRS adds around 147lbs to the rear end of the car from research I’ve done. Adds more weight to the rear so it feels more stable in corners but isn’t ideal for drag racing. I managed to pick up a complete Terminator IRS for 700. They’re the IRS to get.


Pick your poison.
Thanks. I plan on keeping the Mach block. I just figured it would be easier and allow me to continue to drive my car. But yes I do plan on putting a supercharger on the when I build a new motor.

My plan was build a new engine but keep the pistons an all that stuff stock, just forged. Put in different cams, and get the 9 thread heads and have them ported along with intake, and along with adding a supercharger. Would be nice to see 475 to 500rwhp.
 

ScottAlan

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I need some help again. When I start the car it smells idk like gas. When I’m driving it and slowly let off the clutch it seems like it almost wants to die because maybe it’s getting to much gas.

But when I take it out and get on it hard the smell goes away and that flooding feeling goes away too.

Any suggestions. Could it be the tune, as I was told it had the Bama chip in the car but I don’t believe it.

Maybe the fuel injectors are a little dirty or clogged from it sitting without running for 6 months plus because of the previous owner.
 

roy_1031

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You might wanna get the tuned checked out. Haven’t heard very much good about bama. Does the car have cats or a wideband air fuel gauge? Any exhaust leaks?


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DSG2003Mach1

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Thanks. I plan on keeping the Mach block. I just figured it would be easier and allow me to continue to drive my car. But yes I do plan on putting a supercharger on the when I build a new motor.

My plan was build a new engine but keep the pistons an all that stuff stock, just forged. Put in different cams, and get the 9 thread heads and have them ported along with intake, and along with adding a supercharger. Would be nice to see 475 to 500rwhp.

you dont need a built motor for that, a solid tune and don't beat the living hell out of it and it should live at 450-500 for a long time. Also you dont need to start over with 9 thread heads, just use Lock N Stitch aluminum inserts, thats what Im rocking and the builder put it together with 25psi in mind.
 

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