Base GT Radio Upgrade, Options and Opinions...

[chagan02]

Hi All,

So I'm looking at upgrading the sound system in my base GT. I am not looking for a competition system, but would like something that sounds nice, has at least some power, and maybe even improve the looks of the dash.

The options:
1. Use a LOC on the stock HU and add an amp and four new 6.5s (one set of components for the tweeters on the pillars). Of course this means keeping the stock HU, and getting a four channel LOC. If I ever wanted to add a sub I'd need another LOC. Probably the cheapest option.

2. Scosche Dash Kit: and some other Double DIN HU. Of course even those HUs only have about 50w peak power, so probably would still need a small amp, but no LOC and would then have sub outs. However, I'm concerned about the climo control stuff. Has anyone used one of these dash kits? What about the backup cam (I'd be getting a nice HU that would hopefully have this option, like an Alpine)? What about the steering wheel controls? This would be the second most expensive option, and certainly look better than the stock HU.

3. A 4.5 to Sync 3 swap: 2015 Ford Mustang SYNC 3 Upgrade for MyFord Touch
Most likely the best looking option, however the HU is still underpowered thus an amp would still be needed. Not sure about any sub outs. Also by far the most expensive.

All that said, anyone with any other ideas? What have you done to upgrade the sound system in your base GT?

 

[PistolWhip]

You can use forscan to get low level, non-crossed over signals from the factory (or sync) head unit fairly easily; making a line out converter unnecessary and making your output signals perfect for amplification. That’s what I did in my F150 with Sync 3; it was very easy, provides a clear, clean signal to my amps and sounds great while retaining all of the factory functions.

The choice you go with is really all determinate of your budget and overall goal. Sync would be the most factory looking choice while still having some pretty cool options and connectivity with your phone, but good aftermarket HU’s probably provide a better signal and have even more connectivity options. Heck, if the budget allows, iPad set ups are pretty awesome too.

 

[wjfawb0]

I typed up a big write up on my 2015 GT base upgrade, but the page backed up and lost it while trying to insert a link.

Here's the less detailed short description. I intercepted the radio outputs behind the radio, installed quick connects, wired an alpine brick amp in, upgraded the 6.5" speakers to alpine two ways, left tweeters alone, ran high level front signals to the trunk into a 600W alpine amp and 12" sub in a custom corner enclosure I built. Much better than stock, but probably lacking in the mid range. Having the 3.5" speakers in the door would probably really help.

 

[wjfawb0]

Components and other pics are below. The link is to over 100 pictures of the entire process if you're bored. Taking the car apart wasn't difficult, but it wasn't fun.

Index of /images/2017_04_mustang_stereo_upgrade

 

[chagan02]

You can use forscan to get low level, non-crossed over signals from the factory (or sync) head unit fairly easily; making a line out converter unnecessary and making your output signals perfect for amplification. That’s what I did in my F150 with Sync 3; it was very easy, provides a clear, clean signal to my amps and sounds great while retaining all of the factory functions.

The choice you go with is really all determinate of your budget and overall goal. Sync would be the most factory looking choice while still having some pretty cool options and connectivity with your phone, but good aftermarket HU’s probably provide a better signal and have even more connectivity options. Heck, if the budget allows, iPad set ups are pretty awesome too.

Okay so this may be a stupid question, but where are the low level outputs, physically? Are there rca jacks on the back of the factory HU?

Also, Forscan looks fairly complicated. What all do I need to purchase to do this? Wouldn’t a LOC be simpler and cheaper?

Thanks man for your insights!


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[chagan02]

Components and other pics are below. The link is to over 100 pictures of the entire process if you're bored. Taking the car apart wasn't difficult, but it wasn't fun.

Index of /images/2017_04_mustang_stereo_upgrade


View attachment 1580216
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View attachment 1580219

Awesome! Thanks for the details!


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[PistolWhip]

Okay so this may be a stupid question, but where are the low level outputs, physically? Are there rca jacks on the back of the factory HU?

Also, Forscan looks fairly complicated. What all do I need to purchase to do this? Wouldn’t a LOC be simpler and cheaper?

Thanks man for your insights!


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

Forscan is not complicated at all, it’s actually quite easy and the software is actually free. The only things you need is an OBD II plug with USB or Bluetooth and a laptop with windows. Other then that, a couple minutes of googling and you’ll find the software as well as a plethora of proven modifications you can do with it by simply changing a number hear and there in the software. It’s really that easy.

Once you make the changes in Forscan, your speaker wires will become low level, full data signals (so no crossovers or bass reduction issues).

No matter what you decide you’ll want to get a FOR-11CK Parrot harness so you can splice into the factory speaker outs from the head unit, without having to cut the factory harness. The parrot harness will allow you to splice into that and then go back to stock if you ever want to, without any problems.

Now to get RCA cables, I recommend 9 wire speed cable. You can splice 8 of the 9 wires into the front and rear outs from the parrot harness and then use the 9th run your trigger wire. Then run the speed cable from the back of the head unit to the area where you mounted your amps. All you gotta do now is splice some RCA adapters onto the speed wire and plug them into your amp.

Even if you decide to get a LOC instead of using forescan, you’ll still need to get the signal from the head unit to the LOC, which will end up being the same process as I posed above; then RCA’s from the LOC to the amps. Unfortunately that still won’t fix the factory EQ / bass reduction problems though. So essentially the forescan method takes one step and one component out of the system completely and fixes the sound issues without having to buy any other components or alter the factory wiring.

 

[chagan02]

Forscan is not complicated at all, it’s actually quite easy and the software is actually free. The only things you need is an OBD II plug with USB or Bluetooth and a laptop with windows. Other then that, a couple minutes of googling and you’ll find the software as well as a plethora of proven modifications you can do with it by simply changing a number hear and there in the software. It’s really that easy.

Once you make the changes in Forscan, your speaker wires will become low level, full data signals (so no crossovers or bass reduction issues).

No matter what you decide you’ll want to get a FOR-11CK Parrot harness so you can splice into the factory speaker outs from the head unit, without having to cut the factory harness. The parrot harness will allow you to splice into that and then go back to stock if you ever want to, without any problems.

Now to get RCA cables, I recommend 9 wire speed cable. You can splice 8 of the 9 wires into the front and rear outs from the parrot harness and then use the 9th run your trigger wire. Then run the speed cable from the back of the head unit to the area where you mounted your amps. All you gotta do now is splice some RCA adapters onto the speed wire and plug them into your amp.

Even if you decide to get a LOC instead of using forescan, you’ll still need to get the signal from the head unit to the LOC, which will end up being the same process as I posed above; then RCA’s from the LOC to the amps. Unfortunately that still won’t fix the factory EQ / bass reduction problems though. So essentially the forescan method takes one step and one component out of the system completely and fixes the sound issues without having to buy any other components or alter the factory wiring.

Wow thanks for all the info.

So maybe you or some else knows, but where does the factory amp get mounted for a Shaker Setup? Was looking at amps and was considering the physical dimensions as I’d like to mount it either behind the headunit (mini amp), or somewhere in/under/around the dash so all my wires are nice and consolidated.

Essentially it would be nice if I could avoid installing the amp in the trunk. If possible.


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[chagan02]

Okay guys I’m gathering all the stuff for my upgrade. The only thing I haven’t been able to find is a nice sub enclosure for the S550. If money was no object I’d get the JL Stealth Box, but $900...naw.

I already have a few subs laying around (10” & 12”), thus I’d like to find an empty enclosure that is similar to the JL box that fits in the trunk corner. Even if I had to go buy another sub, I don’t need that W3 and I could get something cheaper.

Anyone have or seen an empty trunk corner enclosure for the S550? I googled but all I could find was the ATrend box for the S197.


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