Finally decided to mod the Vette.

bdcardinal

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Kind of strange, considering longtubes and a catted X pipe would be considered legal, assuming EGR and all other emissions equipment are full functional. So long as it remains intact and passes, I don't get how it would not be deemed legal?

But very cool. That thing is going to be an animal.

They wouldn't be legal in California because that would mean moving the cats from their stock location.
 

03Sssnake

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A Heads/Cam C6Z is an amazing machine, just don't over-cam because driveability will suffer. For the money, FAST intakes don't work as well as others on the LS7. So I would stick with the factory intake, or go with an MSD.

Look into a set of Holley valve covers for $250ish and powder coat any color you want. Then get Proform coil relocation kit. I'm super happy with this setup and it's a fraction of what Katech charges.
View attachment 1584898

That big bore, big inch motor can actually tame a really rowdy cam, it all really boils down to the tune. Though I'd shy away from the giant cams for valve train longevity reasons, unless I was doing link bar lifters, shaft mount rockers, manton pushrods, lash caps on the exhaust valves etc... sucks when a lifter turns in its bore and shits metal all thru your motor....
 

03Sssnake

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While removing a functioning factory catalytic converter and replacing it with a less restrictive one seems like it would be okay, it's not. There's all sorts of state & federal regulations which make this a no-no. The 1990 Clean Air Act Amendment is just one of the regs which covers the replacement of catalytic converters and what's allowed and what's not.

I did. I shopped around a bit before making the decision to go with Katech.

True dat. Katech did a lot of work for GM on the C5-R.

No problem with over-cam'ing the car. The car is not tracked or raced. The wife and I use it for long distance car runs around the country so stock drive-ability and reliability are big concerns. I'll be going with one of the mildest LS7 cams they have, a Torquer 116. As for a better intake than the FAST... it's what Katech uses in their "Stage 2" package.

I'm not trying to make a monster with this car. I just want a bit more power across the board, a more aggressive exhaust note, and heads that I don't have to worry about dropping a valve.

I'll have to take a look at those valve covers from Holley...

U.M.

FWIW from time to time Katech sells off a lot of race car take off parts and even whole motors. I have been lucky enough to run across some of their parts in the past and jump on it.
 

Dr. Gonzo

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That big bore, big inch motor can actually tame a really rowdy cam, it all really boils down to the tune. Though I'd shy away from the giant cams for valve train longevity reasons, unless I was doing link bar lifters, shaft mount rockers, manton pushrods, lash caps on the exhaust valves etc... sucks when a lifter turns in its bore and shits metal all thru your motor....
I'm running the BTR Stage 4 cam and my tuner spent a lot of time on the dyno and street to get it as dialed in a possible. It's not horrible, but for how I drive the car it's too big. It's a great cam for dyno slips and the drag strip, and with 28 degrees of overlap it does sound very badass, but I want a cam with more low end that's better on the street for cruising and the occasionally pull. I'm downsizing to a BTR Stage 2. A few guys on CF have done it and have no regrets; power lose is negligible, but the driveability improves dramatically.
 

03Sssnake

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I'm running the BTR Stage 4 cam and my tuner spent a lot of time on the dyno and street to get it as dialed in a possible. It's not horrible, but for how I drive the car it's too big. It's a great cam for dyno slips and the drag strip, and with 28 degrees of overlap it does sound very badass, but I want a cam with more low end that's better on the street for cruising and the occasionally pull. I'm downsizing to a BTR Stage 2. A few guys on CF have done it and have no regrets; power lose is negligible, but the driveability improves dramatically.

We had a monster LG G7XX cam in my buddies C6Z. The lift checked in around .700, don’t recall the duration and LSA, so I can’t give you overlap, but I’d guess it was in the same range as the BTR stg 4. Anyways that car made 590ish RWHP with just full exhaust, ported factory heads thru stock intake manifold. Car had decent drivability, but jesus the valvetrain was noisy AF. Anyways my dumbass buddy never stayed on top of oil changes and spun a bearing.
 

Silverboost

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I went from a Katech torquer 116 cam to the BTR stage 3 cam in my C6Z. Driveability with the baby Katech cam was seriously smooth as stock. The larger BTR 3 cam it suffered some, but it is totally managable and not annoying to drive in. I wouldn't go any bigger than the stage 3 and even to get my current cam to drive nice it took a good tuner.

First tuner didn't know shit and essentially got the car running for me, but the 2nd tuner worked out all the driveability issues.
 

03Sssnake

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I went from a Katech torquer 116 cam to the BTR stage 3 cam in my C6Z. Driveability with the baby Katech cam was seriously smooth as stock. The larger BTR 3 cam it suffered some, but it is totally managable and not annoying to drive in. I wouldn't go any bigger than the stage 3 and even to get my current cam to drive nice it took a good tuner.

First tuner didn't know shit and essentially got the car running for me, but the 2nd tuner worked out all the driveability issues.

Definitely boils down to tuning. Sounds like your 1st tuner didn’t know his ass from a hole in the ground. Guys have been stuffing donkey dick cams into LS cars for over 20 years, tuning has come along ways. I have tuned my own fboat with two different cams and have zero surging, drivability issues. 1st Cam was a massive Trex with 26 degrees of overlap (split pattern cam with intake/exhaust duration in the mid/upper 240s) The 2nd cam was smaller duration wise in the 230s with about the same lift. I had changed the cylinder heads, decked for higher compression and would have had valve interference with the bigger stick.

Brian Tooley/BTR is a great guy, love his cams, valve springs etc.
 

Silverboost

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All the good tuners here in Charlotte area are tough to get in with. I should have just been patient and waited the couple of months to get a solid tune, but after having the car down for multiple months for a broken timing chain I was to excited to get it back on the road.

This car has been a serious learning experience for me. First Chevy I have ever worked on and I had to tear the whole drive train out from engine to rear end when the timing chain broke on me while at the road course track. Luckily I only bent valves, but that led to a complete engine tear down for inspection and a lot of new mods while I was at it.

I will say I love the Z way more than I did my 03 Cobra. The car just does everything so good and is way more comfortable to drive.
 

Uncle Meat

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*UPDATE*

So the Jet-Hot coated Kooks LT headers & X-pipe are installed now and I picked up my freshly powder coated OEM Spyders on Friday last week and they look great. The car is currently up on jack stands while I replace the brakes & rotors. Still have a Halltech MF103 CAI to install and then she's ready to head North to Katech for the final upgrades. Slow progress, but progress is being made.

U.M.
 

ZEN357

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So my Vette has almost 55K miles on it now and the only performance mod I've done since picking her up at the factory in BG has ben a Halltech CAI. I think I've gambled long enough with the LS7 valve issue and have decided to finally address it. I plan on letting Katech in Detroit perform a Stage 2 upgrade on my motor. Consists of completely reworked heads, bigger cam, fast 102 intake, and tuning. I've got a set of Kooks Lt's and catted x-pipe on the way which I will need to install before taking the car to Katech. Unfortunately they will not install headers on street driven cars.

I've got a new set of tires just sitting here at the house, but am torn between ordering some new rims, or getting my stockers restored. Also have a set of Carbotech brakes for all 4 corners which need to be installed while I'm deciding on what to do with the rims.

It's going to be a slow process getting all this completed over the next few months. Can't wait to get to it though!

U.M.

I would get the stock ones restored or go for a different finish/color on them. Just my 2 cents..... :)
 

Uncle Meat

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I'll probably get my hand spanked for posting these here but.... the rims are a bit darker than the original Competition Gray. Closer to a gunmetal gray now. As soon as the brakes & rotors are done I'll put the wheels on and take another photo.

U.M.

wheels.jpg
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Silverboost

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Ahhh...they look good! I have a 2011 Z06 that’s white with the chrome spyders. I have been tempted to powder coat mine that same color you just did


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