SN95 Rollercoaster

Real98roush

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Hit a road bump. Motor came with a 2015 wire harness and i have a 2014 control pack.
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2014 wire harness is on the way


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SVTP: SN95 Rollercoaster
 

Real98roush

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Flew to Kansas City to pick up a new daily driver. 2011 CTSV with 24.5k miles, auto, recaro, pano roof, alcantara wheel and knob

Renforced IC brick
Air raid intake with green filter
2.45 griptec upper pulley
Id1050x injectors
Flex fuel sensor
Texas speed headers
Eibach lowering springs
3k miles on nitto tires
Bmr underhood tank
Varimax IC pump
Mighty mouse catch can
Ngauge
Afr500 wideband
Fresh ceramic coat

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This is the nicest vehicle I’ve ever driven. Ride is smooth, firm suspension, lots of power.


IG: @sn95mystic

SVTP: SN95 Rollercoaster
 

Real98roush

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Sep 11, 2013
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501
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Flew to Kansas City to pick up a new daily driver. 2011 CTSV with 24.5k miles, auto, recaro, pano roof, alcantara wheel and knob

Renforced IC brick
Air raid intake with green filter
2.45 griptec upper pulley
Id1050x injectors
Flex fuel sensor
Texas speed headers
Eibach lowering springs
3k miles on nitto tires
Bmr underhood tank
Varimax IC pump
Mighty mouse catch can
Ngauge
Afr500 wideband
Fresh ceramic

This is the nicest vehicle I’ve ever driven. Ride is smooth, firm suspension, lots of power.

98e58f897eedb94f8fe2cdb827600a50.jpg



IG: @sn95mystic

SVTP: SN95 Rollercoaster
 

Real98roush

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Mounted the control pack PCM on the passenger side where the air filter used to sit. I used the cardboard from the PCM packaging to make a template. Removed the secondary air pump from the 4.6 to make room.
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I started with a dremel with a cutting wheel and it made a dusty mess like you’d expect. Switched to a sawzall. The reciprocating saw worked much quicker and much less clean up.


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Real98roush

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FPR mounted with -6an lines.

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Had to get creative with the return line. The stock return line is 1/4”. -6an to 1/4” push-on fittings were not available, so I used the stock push-on fitting to a 5.6mm rubber line to a barbed -6an fitting.

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Real98roush

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J&M Accelerator pedal bracket to set at the proper angle. A portion of the pedal needs to be trimmed.
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Angle grinder FTW
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Attach the bracket with the supplied hardware. Remaining 2 holes are for the OEM gas pedal studs
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Real98roush

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Clutch safety switch mounted to an existing bracket as if they were made for each other. I’ll lockdown the switch during final connections with a strap or zip tie.

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Real98roush

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Got the control pack routed through the passenger side fender and into the cockpit. Mounted the fuse block in the glove box with the OBDII port. Tied the control pack into the ignition. I’ll share the wire information once I confirm it works. Last night I made a deal for a 2018 intake manifold with lockouts. Going to grab some larger injectors for E85 and see what I can squeeze out if this simple combo.


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99TexasZ

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Ive never owned a SN95, but I just read through this entire thread and the desire to get one is high at the moment! Great thread and documentation of the build.
 

Real98roush

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A 2018 intake manifold popped up locally for a good price, so I snatched it up.
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Already had lockouts too.
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The first gen coolant outlet neck sits higher than the 11-18 neck, so I modified it for clearance

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Real98roush

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Ordered 58lb injectors. Aiming for 400whp. Should get there with the manifold, headers and E85. We’ll find out soon...

Motor is ready to be dropped in. With thanksgiving next weekend, it might be a few weeks before I get time to button this swap up.


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Real98roush

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The larger injectors arrived and they’re about a 1/2” shorter than stock. Was contemplating aftermarket rails when I had a thought. The fuel rail risers on the intake manifold are aluminum, I wonder if they’re removable?

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They are! Simple modification. Had to shorten the bolts too. Easier than pulling out my wallet! Took a few minutes to do the whole job.

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I will warn you that the intake manifold bolts have a very low torque setting, 89 in lbs. I snapped a bolt. I couldn’t find a small enough torque wrench. My smallest wrench starts at 100 in lbs.
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Luckily I have the 2014 manifold to steal bolts from and the broken threads don’t have any resistance so they come out with minimal effort. Although easy fix, it’ll bring your inner sailor vocabulary out!


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Real98roush

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Yesterday I reconnected the battery to test some electrical connections. When the fuel pump primed I discovered a leak where I tied into the stock supply line. I thought I had a bad fitting, so I replaced it with another. Both the original and replacement fittings were brand new, same result with both.

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After messing around with them I found they couldn’t full seat on the hard line due to the line design. Instead of trying to rig something together I bit the bullet and bought a complete kit from Glenn’s Performance. The kit retains the stock tank and supports up to 900hp.


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Real98roush

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Today I changed out some AC o-rings, removed the cruise control module and removed some unneeded wiring.

I was ready to call it a day when I got a hair in my ass and grabbed the motor and cherry picker. I had been waiting for some friends to get free time to help drop the motor in the bay.

Well my stubborn ass was able to shoe horn the engine in the bay in 20 mins start to finish. I was impressed how easily it dropped in

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Real98roush

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Installed the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, power steering pump, and serpentine belt.

The headers are not going to fit without taking some stuff apart. Instead of getting frustrated, I’m going to drop the K-member which shouldn’t be too bad since it’s all brand new and there isn’t any corrosion.

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If I knew this when I started, I would’ve approached the installation different and went from the bottom with the headers and transmission installed outside the car.


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Real98roush

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Removed the bell housing, pressure plate, clutch, lifted the motor off the k-member about 6” and removed the motor mounts. Tried to wrestle the headers in, but there wasn’t enough space to mount them.

Instead of fighting with the installation or using a BMFH, I decided to drop the k-member which required removal of the entire front suspension. I marked the k-member position in about 6 different places to avoid the alignment process I went through went I initially installed everything.

The process was very smooth since everything is basically new. Took a little more than 6 hours start to finish working alone.

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I installed the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and starter before the headers which probably saved a bunch of frustration.

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Then I lowered the engine on the k-member, bolted the motor mounts and installed the entire unit.
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Real98roush

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The other night I was laying in bed and it hit me... the instructions from Ford don’t address power for the control pack.
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I called the tech line the next day and was provided a revised instruction guide. The new guide simply states to run a fused 4ga wire from the battery to the power distribution box terminal. It doesn’t state what size fuse or how to supply power to the starter or alternator.
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I decided to forego the fuse all together. I ran 4ga to the stock power distribution box when I did the battery relocation, so I made a couple jumper 4ga wires and ran them in this order: stock power distribution to the new Coyote power distribution block to the alternator to the starter.

4ga with battery lugs
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Heat shrink
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Heat shield for the jumper to the starter that’s near the headers
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96 Cobra starter.
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Real98roush

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For wiring of the factory gauges and AC, Steve White from VMP Performance provided a nice write up and tech support for small fee. I found him on a FB Coyote Swap page

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