***New Engine Build Thread***

11Sec_Lx

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Background: I've owned this car since early 13'. It's mostly a weekend driver. I typically like to add power once a year and then chase an improved timeslip. The basics of it are: VMP Gen 3R / JLT Super Big Air / 6R80 / Stock converter / BMR suspension / Palm Beach Dyno Tuned. Year by year, it has gone 10.51 / 10.31 / 9.92 / 9.66 / 9.29 / 8.94 (18').

After it went 8's in 18', I decided to stop adding power and making passes and to sell my Gen 1 Aluminator while it's still healthy. I street drove the car weekly, like normal this year and saved up.

I am selling the Aluminator complete. The only things I will have after it sells are, my VMP Gen 3R blower kit, exhaust studs, coils, wiring harness, accessories and front cover. The Aluminator comes out this weekend.

The goals of this new build are to:

1) Maintain low/mid range torque for street fun (nothing like a stock converter car with the ability to have instant power delivery) and so my stock converter will continue to work at track

2) Add block/rotating assembly strength to give me head room to continue to add power

3) Improving the engine's breathing capacity

Here goes:

Block:
Gen 3, 5.2 block (2020 GT500)

A seemingly little known fact is that the 5.2 block is quite robust without sleeves. I'm paranoid of sleeving, so learning this was music to my ears. Scott Hasty recommended that I contact his engine builder, Will Rollins of RPG Race Engines. I did and Will has been consulting me on this build. At his business, he will use an unsleeved, Gen 2, 5.2 block to 1200 rwhp as a safe power limit, and the more robust Gen 3 version of the 5.2 block beyond that. He currently has customers making passes and with 1300 rwhp with an unsleeved Gen 3, 5.2 block. According to Will, the Gen 3, 5.2 block is beefed up in every weak area and then some vs the Gen 2, 5.2. That was all I needed to hear. I did some homework and immediately ordered one through Devin Hyde at Lexington Park Ford (see below).

Rotating assembly:
Boss 302 crank (double keyed)
Manley H Tuff rods
Manley Platinum Extreme Duty pistons
Total Seal AP series rings

Heads:
Gen 2, cnc ported (w/the "Gen 3" intake port), decked, valve job, +1 Ferrea valves by Bret Barber at Airflow Solutions. I had the combustion chamber measured by a local machine shop and it measured 55cc's. With the head gaskets at .050", this should net a compression ratio of 11.3:1 (thanks Will!).

Head gaskets: 2020 GT500

Cams:
Boss 302 intake and exhaust

Ford parts: basically everything else other then bearings, head and main studs

Ford 11'-14' oil pump with TSS opgs and crank gear

Bret Barber put me in contact with Devin Hyde @ Lexington Park Ford. He not only had Gen 2 heads on the shelf, they were priced at the lowest number I had found online. Devin shipped the heads straight to Bret. Bret putting me in touch with Devin was a gold mine. Devin is a car guy who knows Ford parts and is willing to help you figure out what you need and sells at the lowest price you'll find online. I have now purchased my heads, almost every part to assemble a longblock and any day, my block from Devin.

Assembly:
My Aluminator has been rock solid and built well. Fonzie Novelo happens to be the guy who built it and he also happens to be a guy who builds these engines daily. He will be assembling my new engine.

I will update this post as I receive new parts and have news to share.

To kick this off, here are some photos of my heads. Out of respect for Bret, there are no closeups of the ports, just in case it's something he would prefer I don't show.

Thanks for reading!
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gimmie11s

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Awesome!!!! Looks like a great build.

Ask your builder his thoughts on the 5.0 gen 3 block.

I have one delivering next week and also do not plan to sleeve.

If it is good for 1200 I’d be stoked.

I’m also going to be running the Manley HD pistons/ total seal rings and h tuff rods.


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gimmie11s

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What main and rod bearing are you going to use? King?


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biminiLX

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John’s not on here as much, but I can see why people fear sleeving.
MANY people have issues with sleeves for various reasons; some if not done correctly, some due to improper maintenance, etc.
The best solution is a block strong enough from the factory, but the problem is that horsepower is so easy these days, 1000hp is getting common and OEM will never build to that level (yet).
For the best shops and most proven sleevers, it is expensive, and even those can have issues (as John, myself and others hear about from people we know, but are never openly but in public for several reasons).
So, sleeving is expensive and a gamble, even for high dollar shops.
-J
 

biminiLX

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Awesome!!!! Looks like a great build.

Ask your builder his thoughts on the 5.0 gen 3 block.

I have one delivering next week and also do not plan to sleeve.

If it is good for 1200 I’d be stoked.

I’m also going to be running the Manley HD pistons/ total seal rings and h tuff rods.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Also as John knows, there was a popular shop build Gen 3 block that was sleeved, but due to slight changes with the Gen 3, the sleeves are loosing a small amount of coolant at very high horsepower. The shop and builder now recognize how a slight modification of the Gen 3 sleeving process will fix this, but it’s an example of the above post.
The stock Gen 3 will likely not handle the power Dom.
The only stock Coyote block I would trust to 1200hp non sleeved is the new 5.2 GT500/GT350 block.
-J
 

GNBRETT

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Boggles my mind that u use the stock converter smh. Really awesome! How I so wish I could use my stock converter while cruising around. Dont care what anyone says cruising around with a 3700 stall converter sux on the street most of the time. Great when u smash it and build boost but 99% of the time it blows.

I went with the same cams and really like them for a street/strip car.
 

11Sec_Lx

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I didn't care for how the question was asked. I was just ignoring it.

Thanks though, J. You hit the nail on the head. It's a big deal for me to pull/install an engine. I need it to be right, the first time.
 

11Sec_Lx

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Thanks Brett! I'm planning on sending it to Circle D to have it beefed up while the engine is out. They'll add stronger clutch material, anti-ballooning plates, ect. Hopefully that keeps it happy into the future.
 

Klaus

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I didn't care for how the question was asked. I was just ignoring it.

Thanks though, J. You hit the nail on the head. It's a big deal for me to pull/install an engine. I need it to be right, the first time.

Explain. Pretty please. Good enough for you?

Thanks for your thoughtful response J, I recognize that you appreciate efficiency of request.
 

GNBRETT

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No BS being able to run a stock converter on the street and still make an 8 second pass is just silly awesome. Like the best of all worlds. Kinda like the new Rods Porsche is coming out with lol. Check em out when u get a chance u'll see what I mean.

Circle D definitely has their shit down. Really makes me wanna go blower sometimes. Believe it or not the highest dyno pull I've ever seen was with a dam Kenny Bell and he to had the stock converter. Smh.

I can only imagine how DEADLY ur set up is gonna be now! :) Look forward to this build!
 

biminiLX

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Thanks Brett! I'm planning on sending it to Circle D to have it beefed up while the engine is out. They'll add stronger clutch material, anti-ballooning plates, ect. Hopefully that keeps it happy into the future.
I’m with you on the stock converter.
For a PD blower street car, until you are tipping to more track than street, the stock converter matches the PD torque delivery perfectly.
You and Scott are the prime examples. You’re both big power level, but with you street>strip and with Scott strip>street, your choice in converters are both correct (you stock, him not).
Due to work Scott is out of PRI, and I’m extremely limited, so I’m just running around Friday only with Lidio and a few friends. You interested in Fri only?
-J
 

11Sec_Lx

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Thanks Brett. It's a blast with how tight it is. The car will just jump with a little throttle input. Makes me giddy.

J- agreed. I haven't crossed the threshold with blower speed to cause the stocker to become a detriment. If/when it does, I'll work around it. I don't hit the track much. Driving is my #1 priority. I'll be at PRI Thursday and Friday. With a different friend both days. I would definitely be game to meet up on Friday.
 

Coz

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I'm planning on sending it to Circle D to have it beefed up while the engine is out. They'll add stronger clutch material, anti-ballooning plates, ect.

Hi. What's the practical difference between doing that and a 1B or 1C converter? I think they are only 300-400 rpms higher than stock.

And is modifying a stock converter cheaper than a new Circle D converter?

Thanks
 

11Sec_Lx

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Hi. What's the practical difference between doing that and a 1B or 1C converter? I think they are only 300-400 rpms higher than stock.

And is modifying a stock converter cheaper than a new Circle D converter?

Thanks
Coz - I want the converter as tight as possible. I don't want to sacrifice even a couple hundred rpm.

Yes, it's much cheaper to get the stock converter modded. Approximately half price, the last time I checked. As a part of the modifications, they actually loosen the stocker by a couple hundred rpm. I'm going to have to request that they leave mine alone in that regard.
 

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