2013 GT500 LCD Gauge Cluster Install into a 2011 GT500 With Track Apps and LC

12Red500

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2018
Messages
88
Location
Detroit, Mi
The ABS module is the electronic part. Just remove 4 bolts and replace the module. No need to remove any of the brake lines or bleed the system.
Do not buy a used module. They always end up being faulty and you'll be wasting time trying to figure out why you can't re-flash the module.

If you want a bad one I can send it to you one...lol

For a part number just look up a 2013/14 GT500 brake module. It will work just fine.
 

Wiley50

Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2016
Messages
37
Location
New Jersey
Thanks for the response. Since you have a 12’ too, any major issues that you ran into?

I’m only apprehensive in terms of the tuning side of things after the install is completed. Did you reach out to Lund, or would you recommend a different tuner?

I have the 12 SVTPP, but to me that’s the equivalent of a base 13/14 without track pack or SVTPP. What vin did you end up going with for the pcm/abs reprogramming?
 

HKusp

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2019
Messages
486
Location
Hampton, Maryland
Been lurking on this thread and re-reading it now for some time.

Two main things that I'm confused on. 1, the abs module swap hasn't been covered too well. Is it just the electronic module that needs replacing without the plumbing for the brake lines or does it include the hard brake lines? 2, does anyone have an updated part number for it? The first post by BlueeyedSnake claims it is ER33-2C405-AA, but that part number does not exist on any ford parts website or diagram.

Thanks in advance. Look forward to getting the 2014 gt500 cluster into my 2012 gt500.

I had a buddy look into a new part # to cross reference off of the ER33-2C405-AA, he gave me 2 components and I am not sure which would be the one you are looking for. One is the hydraulic side and one is the electrical. I am not sure which is which but here they are one from one online Ford part supplier and one from the other you can choose which site you want to get it from or use your own.

Here's one part # ER3Z-2C215-A

ER3Z-2C215-A - Genuine Ford Base No. #2C215 Module

Here is the other part # DR3Z-2C219-A

2013-2014 Ford Mustang Control Module DR3Z-2C219-A | Cheaper Ford Parts
 

12Red500

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2018
Messages
88
Location
Detroit, Mi
I had a buddy look into a new part # to cross reference off of the ER33-2C405-AA, he gave me 2 components and I am not sure which would be the one you are looking for. One is the hydraulic side and one is the electrical. I am not sure which is which but here they are one from one online Ford part supplier and one from the other you can choose which site you want to get it from or use your own.

Here's one part # ER3Z-2C215-A

ER3Z-2C215-A - Genuine Ford Base No. #2C215 Module

Here is the other part # DR3Z-2C219-A

2013-2014 Ford Mustang Control Module DR3Z-2C219-A | Cheaper Ford Parts

You want the electronic part. Getting it from the dealer is the best option as you can return it if it is defective.

I wen the cheap route (or so I thought) and got a used part that needed to be replaced with a new dealer part.

Live and learn.
 

12Red500

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2018
Messages
88
Location
Detroit, Mi
Thanks for the response. Since you have a 12’ too, any major issues that you ran into?

I’m only apprehensive in terms of the tuning side of things after the install is completed. Did you reach out to Lund, or would you recommend a different tuner?

I have the 12 SVTPP, but to me that’s the equivalent of a base 13/14 without track pack or SVTPP. What vin did you end up going with for the pcm/abs reprogramming?


I got a vin from a 14 GT500 that had the same gear ratio and similar options as mine (i.e. navigation, radio. etc.) from ebay.
That way you don't have to change out too much of the as build data codes.

As for the tune:
You should be able to start the vehicle and drive it gently around but I wouldn't chance it too much.
You will need a tune (even if the motor is stock) to work with the new PCM. They will need to apply stock 2011/12 tune to a stock 13/14 tune and remove any thing that mentions the 5.8L motor.
If they don't, the traction control will not work.
Lund can do it as well as VMP.

I got mine from VMP as I had a Gen2R installed with a few other parts at the time.
 

Wiley50

Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2016
Messages
37
Location
New Jersey
Thank you both. Almost pulled the trigger on a used ABS module but based on a lot of input, I won’t waste my time and I’ll just grab one from the links above. After my earlier post I realized it’s only the electrical portion and the brake lines don’t get touched (Thanks to 12Red500). I could now see one could be changed independent of the other.

As for the VIN, I’m leaning towards a non-SVTPP mainly because I feel like the gauge cluster will be looking for the adjustable suspension on a 14 that my 12 definitely does not have. (Really wish it did though...and the wife doesn’t hold back comparing my 14 GT/CS suspension to the 12 GT500 SVTPP either )
 

12Red500

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2018
Messages
88
Location
Detroit, Mi
Thank you both. Almost pulled the trigger on a used ABS module but based on a lot of input, I won’t waste my time and I’ll just grab one from the links above. After my earlier post I realized it’s only the electrical portion and the brake lines don’t get touched (Thanks to 12Red500). I could now see one could be changed independent of the other.

As for the VIN, I’m leaning towards a non-SVTPP mainly because I feel like the gauge cluster will be looking for the adjustable suspension on a 14 that my 12 definitely does not have. (Really wish it did though...and the wife doesn’t hold back comparing my 14 GT/CS suspension to the 12 GT500 SVTPP either )

I don't think that matters much.

There is a pin on the PCM module you'll need to connect to the switches on the headlight switch to toggle between suspension modes, steering input, and Launch Control.

This is something I was going to look at possibly this summer. It doesn't bother me much not having that on a dedicated switch.

You can still change steering wheel input and engage Launch Control inside the gauge cluster itself.

Be aware you won't be able to engage Launch Control until the engine is warmed up.

You'll know when the engine is warmed up because the redline on the gauge will change from 6200 to 7000.

Let us know if you need assistance.
 

sleek98

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2012
Messages
2,169
Location
Kansas City, MO
i did it on my 12 but mine dont show the shelby emblem on the lcd it shows mustang.what programming did u do to yours maybe they programmed mine wrong

You cant change that. The Snake or the Horse is dependent on the year the cluster is from. 2013 or 2014
 

Wiley50

Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2016
Messages
37
Location
New Jersey
Guage cluster with cobra: ER3Z-10849-JA (produced after 4/2013)

Guage cluster with pony: DR3Z-10849-JA (produced up through 3/2013)

By produced I’m referring to the production date of the actual cluster and not the date of the entire vehicle assembly, although they may coincide as well.
 

biminiLX

never stock
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2003
Messages
13,275
Location
Toledo, OH
Side question, but for those of us with the factory ‘13-14 cluster, can you reprogram at all?
Ideally I’d really love to keep/use the stock display for a/f ratio (running E85) and boost (from a real boost source or a way to adjust stock calculations to mods-I run 22-24# on a Gen3R)?
-J
 

Wiley50

Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2016
Messages
37
Location
New Jersey
Honestly I’m not totally sure...why not grab one of those aftermarket analog gauges that fits directly into your a/c vent or on your a-pillar. I feel like that’s going to be your only true reading versus trying to reprogram a digital obd2-driven gauge.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top