What did you do for your Terminator today?

P49Y-CY

fomocomofo
Established Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2003
Messages
11,218
Location
southwest
I need to do this soon for a cam install. Any tips? Been debating coming out the top or bottom? Didn't take the trans out with it?
Any help you may have I'm all ears. Feel free to pm if needed.
Thanks

i had been trying to decide for a long time whether to pull it out from the top or drop it out underneath, and still really wasn't sure if it would work until i actually did it. my main goals were to keep a/c system and hood intact. and since i have no experience messing with front suspension components (steering shaft/ball-joints/springs/alignment, etc), pullling it out from the top became my first choice. i have a fairly low ceiling "93 inches, but it still cleared okay even with the hood standing straight up. as far as the transmission, over the years i had removed it countless times for clutches so it was an easy decision for me to remove it first.

since these mod motors are so wide, i would recommend a spreader bar of 30" so that the chains or straps don't stress the valve covers too hard. i have the outrageously!!! expensive rotunda 303-DS086 engine lifting kit (as specified in the factory service manual), but still couldn't attach the passenger side lifting-eye bracket to the head with the a/c lines in place, so i hooked a chain there instead (the ford manual does say to remove the a/c lines for this job). i had unbolted the hydroboost unit, but while i was lifting the engine, it looked like it cleared it okay so that may not be 100% necessary.

before it's out i would make sure that the engine stand mounting arms you have are going to span the bellhousing, because the one i bought off of craigslist wouldn't fit so now i'm stuck looking for an engine stand.

best of luck with it and enjoy!!! i find it to be a really fun and satisfying hobby.
 

Ford Racing G

Member
Established Member
Joined
May 29, 2019
Messages
60
Location
Louisiana

RCMPSVT

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Messages
1,946
Location
Ontario, Canada
Epoxy floors.
 

Attachments

  • 0B77FE51-B9FC-4A40-B483-20E7006414FA_1_201_a.jpeg
    0B77FE51-B9FC-4A40-B483-20E7006414FA_1_201_a.jpeg
    286 KB · Views: 157

94slowbra1

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2007
Messages
2,779
Location
new orleans
i had been trying to decide for a long time whether to pull it out from the top or drop it out underneath, and still really wasn't sure if it would work until i actually did it. my main goals were to keep a/c system and hood intact. and since i have no experience messing with front suspension components (steering shaft/ball-joints/springs/alignment, etc), pullling it out from the top became my first choice. i have a fairly low ceiling "93 inches, but it still cleared okay even with the hood standing straight up. as far as the transmission, over the years i had removed it countless times for clutches so it was an easy decision for me to remove it first.

since these mod motors are so wide, i would recommend a spreader bar of 30" so that the chains or straps don't stress the valve covers too hard. i have the outrageously!!! expensive rotunda 303-DS086 engine lifting kit (as specified in the factory service manual), but still couldn't attach the passenger side lifting-eye bracket to the head with the a/c lines in place, so i hooked a chain there instead (the ford manual does say to remove the a/c lines for this job). i had unbolted the hydroboost unit, but while i was lifting the engine, it looked like it cleared it okay so that may not be 100% necessary.

before it's out i would make sure that the engine stand mounting arms you have are going to span the bellhousing, because the one i bought off of craigslist wouldn't fit so now i'm stuck looking for an engine stand.

best of luck with it and enjoy!!! i find it to be a really fun and satisfying hobby.

I'm the exact opposite, never removed the trans but have dropped the k-member atleast 4 times now if not 5. So im very comfortable with the suspension. I have an engine lift but no spreader. So im torn here. I've read up on it both ways and they both have pros and cons. I just need to get it to my cam installer in one piece
 

P49Y-CY

fomocomofo
Established Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2003
Messages
11,218
Location
southwest
I'm the exact opposite, never removed the trans but have dropped the k-member atleast 4 times now if not 5. So im very comfortable with the suspension. I have an engine lift but no spreader. So im torn here. I've read up on it both ways and they both have pros and cons. I just need to get it to my cam installer in one piece

oh if you're dropping it out the bottom and just need to get the engine off the k-member and onto a truck pallet or something perhaps you can remove the intake and hook your hoist to the front/rear valley area.

most pro mechanics and other folks i've asked have told me dropping it out from the bottom is less work
 

4sdvenom

Never Enough!
Established Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2003
Messages
2,439
Location
Ft. Wayne, IN
Dropping it out the bottom is the only way I’ll ever do it. I’ve dropped mine out and back in 2 different times and also once for a friend that installed a built short block in his Cobra. I’ve dropped them with the tranny attached and I’ve dropped them with both the tranny and k member still attached. I have a small 4 wheel rectangular dolly that works perfect for lowering it onto and rolling out from under. A floor jack under the transmission and a chain bolted to the front of the engine in a secure place to use an engine hoist to carry the weight and lower it down. I’ve done it each time by myself with no issues. Lower the floor jack a bit, then the engine hoist and repeat until everything lands securely on the 4 wheel dolly.
 

4sdvenom

Never Enough!
Established Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2003
Messages
2,439
Location
Ft. Wayne, IN
Remove the brakes calipers and zip tie or hang out of the way. Remove the front shocks and springs. Unbolt the steering arms from the spindle and unbolt and pull the steering rack forward and zip tie out of the way under the radiator. Remove the power steering reservoir and pump and zip tie out of the way and same thing for the AC compressor. Of course you have everything electrical harness related to get out of the way (starter & alternator). Unplug all electrical and vacuum/boost lines up top that are directly connected from the engine to the car as well as disconnect the fuel rails from the fuel line feed. Disconnect heating lines to the heater core at the back and remove coolant and coolant lines from the front of motor as well. Unplug the main engine harness from the harness from the computer at the passenger side back of engine location (requires complete loosening of the center by that keeps it securely connected. This will allow all of the injector and COP wiring and anything else from the engine harness to the engine remain. Remove throttle cable and cruise control cable and secure out of the way. Disconnect the clutch cable if you're still using the 6 speed manual.
I'm sure there are a few others that I am missing but if you take it slowly and WATCH EVERYTHING it is easier than pulling it out the top. I was forced to go out the bottom due to a low garage ceiling but I'm glad for that and won't do it any other way.

Hope this helps somebody! LOL
Ken
 
Last edited:

NateDogg

Terminator
Established Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2013
Messages
2,577
Location
Wesley Chapel, FL
Remove the brakes calipers and zip tie or hang out of the way. Remove the front shocks and springs. Unbolt the steering arms from the spindle and unbolt and pull the steering rack forward and zip tie out of the way under the radiator. Remove the power steering reservoir and pump and zip tie out of the way and same thing for the AC compressor. Of course you have everything electrical harness related to get out of the way (starter & alternator). Unplug all electrical and vacuum/boost lines up top that are directly connected from the engine to the car as well as disconnect the fuel rails from the fuel line feed. Disconnect heating lines to the heater core at the back and remove coolant and coolant lines from the front of motor as well. Unplug the main engine harness from the harness from the computer at the passenger side back of engine location (requires complete loosening of the center by that keeps it securely connected. This will allow all of the injector and COP wiring and anything else from the engine harness to the engine remain. Remove throttle cable and cruise control cable and secure out of the way. Disconnect the clutch cable if you're still using the 6 speed manual.
I'm sure there are a few others that I am missing but if you take it slowly and WATCH EVERYTHING it is easier than pulling it out the top. I was forced to go out the bottom due to a low garage ceiling but I'm glad for that and won't do it any other way.

Hope this helps somebody! LOL
Ken

+1 on going out the bottom. I've done it this way multiple times and its easy... I'll be doing it again when its cam time.

I have one if those engine support bars, so I use that to hold the engine in place while i remove all the suspension/AC/PS stuff out of the way. I also remove the blower to give me a little bit more room, but it could easily be done with it still intact..

I used a floor jack on the trans and a regular furniture dolly from harbor freight on the engine. Used the cherry picker to drop the engine down on to the dolly and then take the cherry picker and raise the front of the car high enough to roll the engine/trans out the passenger side. I have a bunch of pictures of it somewhere, I'll post them up when I get a chance.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top