Clutch "Mod" Everyone Should Do

Catmonkey

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AFAIK the 07-12 clutch master is still available. It just has a smaller diameter piston and bore than the 13-14, but bolts up just the same. I separated my reservoirs, so maybe it'll last longer. The bigger bore displaces more fluid and eases clutch engagement.
 

Robert M

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Your clutch pedal is not likely to have provision for it. My pedal assembly didn't have it. I think Mustang GTs might have had it, but I don't know what years, and the 13-14 GT500.

^^^^Ok, good to know. Will a 2013/14 GT500 Clutch Pedal Assy. bolt directly into an earlier car, like for the firewall mounting and/or dash framework attachment?

Someone on another forum mentioned the Bosses having the same clutch return spring set-up as the 2013/14 GT500, but Ford Parts tells me that the 2013/14 GT500 clutch pedal assy. looks like it is 2013/14 GT500 only?........and the difference may be the trim on the GT500 pedal pads, and the different part number?

R
 
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XP900

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When I changed my clutch master to the 13-14 model, it was obvious to me the pivot you're showing would impact the pedal assembly. I used a thicker washer under the clutch stop otherwise, I'm sure mine would have broken in similar fashion.

Are you saying that the 13/14 clutch mcylinder (with the aluminum head upgrade on the pushrod) can work in the 2010 and only needs the clutch stop modified slightly and no other pedal mods (even though the newer models may have had a different return spring) ?

I already ordered a new 2013/14 MC and new head but only as a future spare.
 

Robert M

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Are you saying that the 13/14 clutch mcylinder (with the aluminum head upgrade on the pushrod) can work in the 2010 and only needs the clutch stop modified slightly and no other pedal mods (even though the newer models may have had a different return spring) ?

I already ordered a new 2013/14 MC and new head but only as a future spare.

Others have put the 2013/14 Clutch Master in their earlier cars with the oem pedal attachment, so I would guess that the alum. piece would be an update to the 2013/14, just as it is to the 2007-2012......

The return spring is a different update and from what Cat says, it will require the complete pedal assy. replacement to get that return spring update/change.....

R
 

Catmonkey

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Are you saying that the 13/14 clutch mcylinder (with the aluminum head upgrade on the pushrod) can work in the 2010 and only needs the clutch stop modified slightly and no other pedal mods (even though the newer models may have had a different return spring) ?

I installed the 13-14 clutch master on my 2012 and your car used the same clutch master mine did. As far as the billet pivot piece, I have no idea if it will work with the 13-14 master cylinder, so I am not saying that it will work. However, the piston rods do appear similar, so I think it's a good chance it would. The only other issue I had with this mod was with the clutch safety sensor. I had a no start condition, when I got through with this and a bunch of other upgrades and ultimately determined the clutch stop shiming prevented the rubber piece on the clutch pedal from contacting and depressing the clutch safety switch. I used a small rubber bumper like this to fix the issue.

9540k27p1-j06-digital@1x_636972342683885988.png

The pic is larger than actual size. You can find something like this at a hardware store. I have a bunch if you can't find one. I'd be willing to send one if you cover cost of mailing. I attached it with a small machine screw and nut.

It's been a while since I did this, but with the billet piece, you could probably clearance the contact points and not have to worry about shims and spacers. Just cycle the clutch with the pedal assembly out of the car and you can see where that plastic piece can hit the master cylinder (or maybe it was the pedal assembly). Just spit balling this last part.

It's just way too big a PITA for me to go back and do any of this unless something breaks. In my advancing old age, laying on my back with my head tilted up brings on motion sickness symptoms after about 30 minutes or so in that position. This is after removing the driver seat to lay down on the floor of the car to work. It's made even more difficult if you have a long wing span. I spent considerable time trying to figure out how to remove the pin for the brake master cylinder. I found a youtube video where someone used a small, properly sized, deep socket on the locking side of the pin which made removal a snap. Ford also recommends replacement of the pin (plastic) after removal, so if you intend to do that, get one in advance.
 

Robert M

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I installed the 13-14 clutch master on my 2012 and your car used the same clutch master mine did. As far as the billet pivot piece, I have no idea if it will work with the 13-14 master cylinder, so I am not saying that it will work. However, the piston rods do appear similar, so I think it's a good chance it would. The only other issue I had with this mod was with the clutch safety sensor. I had a no start condition, when I got through with this and a bunch of other upgrades and ultimately determined the clutch stop shiming prevented the rubber piece on the clutch pedal from contacting and depressing the clutch safety switch. I used a small rubber bumper like this to fix the issue.

View attachment 1683380
The pic is larger than actual size. You can find something like this at a hardware store. I have a bunch if you can't find one. I'd be willing to send one if you cover cost of mailing. I attached it with a small machine screw and nut.

It's been a while since I did this, but with the billet piece, you could probably clearance the contact points and not have to worry about shims and spacers. Just cycle the clutch with the pedal assembly out of the car and you can see where that plastic piece can hit the master cylinder (or maybe it was the pedal assembly). Just spit balling this last part.

It's just way too big a PITA for me to go back and do any of this unless something breaks. In my advancing old age, laying on my back with my head tilted up brings on motion sickness symptoms after about 30 minutes or so in that position. This is after removing the driver seat to lay down on the floor of the car to work. It's made even more difficult if you have a long wing span. I spent considerable time trying to figure out how to remove the pin for the brake master cylinder. I found a youtube video where someone used a small, properly sized, deep socket on the locking side of the pin which made removal a snap. Ford also recommends replacement of the pin (plastic) after removal, so if you intend to do that, get one in advance.

Cat - Do you think the swapping of the complete 2013/14 clutch pedal assy. along with the newer clutch master would make everything work in the earlier car? I am guessing that it would...........I would guess yes, I also would bet that it would be a Real PITA to swap all of that stuff under the dash?!?!?..........and that is if the newer stuff bolts directly in the earlier car? It would really need a side-by-side stare and compare out of the car to verify.......

R
 

Catmonkey

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Cat - Do you think the swapping of the complete 2013/14 clutch pedal assy. along with the newer clutch master would make everything work in the earlier car? I am guessing that it would...........I would guess yes, I also would bet that it would be a Real PITA to swap all of that stuff under the dash?!?!?..........and that is if the newer stuff bolts directly in the earlier car? It would really need a side-by-side stare and compare out of the car to verify.......
You could swap the 13-14 pedal assembly on the 10-12, but unless you came across the pedal assembly cheap, it's wasn't something I was willing to buy new. Except for a few rubber pieces you can't buy separately, the only difference is that return spring mechanism. Most guys remove the spring anyway. I've seen the question come up before whether the 10-14 pedal assembly will bolt to an 07-09, but I've never seen anyone say they tried it.
 

Robert M

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You could swap the 13-14 pedal assembly on the 10-12, but unless you came across the pedal assembly cheap, it's wasn't something I was willing to buy new. Except for a few rubber pieces you can't buy separately, the only difference is that return spring mechanism. Most guys remove the spring anyway. I've seen the question come up before whether the 10-14 pedal assembly will bolt to an 07-09, but I've never seen anyone say they tried it.

Yes, the cheapest I found was $385, but I did not look deeply and am not sure I would go through the trouble.....

R
 

XP900

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The only other issue I had with this mod was with the clutch safety sensor. I had a no start condition, when I got through with this and a bunch of other upgrades and ultimately determined the clutch stop shiming prevented the rubber piece on the clutch pedal from contacting and depressing the clutch safety switch. I used a small rubber bumper like this to fix the issue.
It's just way too big a PITA for me to go back and do any of this unless something breaks. In my advancing old age, laying on my back with my head tilted up brings on motion sickness symptoms after about 30 minutes or so in that position.
I found a youtube video where someone used a small, properly sized, deep socket on the locking side of the pin which made removal a snap. Ford also recommends replacement of the pin (plastic) after removal, so if you intend to do that, get one in advance.

Okay.. I think I got it. I will probably assemble the new 2014 MC with the aluminum but wait until I need to take that pedal out again and have this writeup and the parts I need ready in a baggie. I reused the old locking pin parts and was careful when I dismantled it. It's another PITA setup.

When I separated my brake and clutch (bought the expensive over-priced Shelby kit) I read that the brake reservoir was held by a pushed in pin (like Chevys) and it had to be punched out. WRONG....by the time I looked at diagrams I realized it screws in and it was too late. I had to remove the MC to remove the botched up screw and install the new auto reservoir and then drill and rivet it on .... came out fine in the end but a lot of work. I also replaced the supply line hose for the slave clutch (with a new SS clutch line too) and I had to remove everything including the inside pedals to do all of this. Instead of two hours it was two days at least at night.

I wanted my clutch system separate from the brake system to protect my braking system from contamination with old clutch fluid and particles. If the braking system fluid discolors early it's a good chance it's from the clutch system. I now just flush the slave clutch reservoir fluid often and it mixes with the old existing fluid quickly, unlike the braking system that really needs a complete flush every couple of years. Now my systems are nice and clear.
 

Robert M

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Okay.. I think I got it. I will probably assemble the new 2014 MC with the aluminum but wait until I need to take that pedal out again and have this writeup and the parts I need ready in a baggie. I reused the old locking pin parts and was careful when I dismantled it. It's another PITA setup.

When I separated my brake and clutch (bought the expensive over-priced Shelby kit) I read that the brake reservoir was held by a pushed in pin (like Chevys) and it had to be punched out. WRONG....by the time I looked at diagrams I realized it screws in and it was too late. I had to remove the MC to remove the botched up screw and install the new auto reservoir and then drill and rivet it on .... came out fine in the end but a lot of work. I also replaced the supply line hose for the slave clutch (with a new SS clutch line too) and I had to remove everything including the inside pedals to do all of this. Instead of two hours it was two days at least at night.

I wanted my clutch system separate from the brake system to protect my braking system from contamination with old clutch fluid and particles. If the braking system fluid discolors early it's a good chance it's from the clutch system. I now just flush the slave clutch reservoir fluid often and it mixes with the old existing fluid quickly, unlike the braking system that really needs a complete flush every couple of years. Now my systems are nice and clear.

What year is your car?

R
 

Robert M

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Can you take a picture of the Shelby remote clutch reservoir installed on your 2010 and post it on here please? I am trying to figure out how it will install on a 2008? I believe Shelby lists it for 2007-2014 GT500.......

Thanks, Robert
 

XP900

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Photos of MC - notice color of removed fluid from clutch master cylinder reservoir. I just changed it 2K miles ago and cleaned and refilled again. This is about the 3rd or 4th time over the last year. Something is still disintegrating in the system which is why I separated the systems. I cleaned the inside of the clutch reservoir before refilling...very easy to do now with paper towels. By now all the old clutch fluid had to be replaced so I am not sure what is causing the fluid to turn black. It is from the tranny down since all components above had been replaced. Even the supply hose was changed to a BMW line just in case the rubber was dissolving (it wasn't). Fluid level not dropping and there are no leaks anywhere. Clutch system works fine so until the clutch needs replacing I will live it it and replace slave with clutch replacement.
 

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Robert M

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Photos of MC - notice color of removed fluid from clutch master cylinder reservoir. I just changed it 2K miles ago and cleaned and refilled again. This is about the 3rd or 4th time over the last year. Something is still disintegrating in the system which is why I separated the systems. I cleaned the inside of the clutch reservoir before refilling...very easy to do now with paper towels. By now all the old clutch fluid had to be replaced so I am not sure what is causing the fluid to turn black. It is from the tranny down since all components above had been replaced. Even the supply hose was changed to a BMW line just in case the rubber was dissolving (it wasn't). Fluid level not dropping and there are no leaks anywhere. Clutch system works fine so until the clutch needs replacing I will live it it and replace slave with clutch replacement.

I am unable to see any of the pictures.....

R
 

Robert M

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We had an in-depth discussion on the discoloration of the brake fluid and "turning dark"........and after much discussion we came to the conclusion that poor brake/clutch system maint. is the problem. The fluid turns dark over time, it is what happens when the fluid is not regularly flushed. The brake system is stainless steel lines (no rust) and the clutch system is alum. with a plastic line (no rust) and if by chance the fluid was to be heated by the clutch to the point of darkening, that plastic line would melt, so that is not the issue. If it was clutch dust, then there would be a leak in the bell housing area and in reality the clutch system pressure would push out of any leak, not suck in dust. Over time the fluid darkens as it is exposed to moisture in the air in the M/C, the pads get thinner and air replaces the fluid as the level goes down and the fluid absorbs the moisture and discolors over time. The rear nipple on the oem master cylinder is where the clutch gets its feed, since that nipple is at the rear of that reservoir and any heavier contaminates in the M/C reservoir will be sucked into the clutch system every time the clutch is exercised, which is often on these cars, so that dark contamination makes it's way to the lowest point in the clutch system. Of course acceleration will also migrate the heavier contaminants to the rear of the M/C reservoir also, right there for the clutch nipple feed.......

Ok, so now the clutch system itself.........Since there is no "slave cylinder" with a bleeder to flush the system the McLeod Bleeder for the 2005-2014 Mustang is the best option (shown below). To bleed the clutch system from the M/C (brake or separated clutch) to the bell housing you open the bleeder and press the clutch pedal until it is clear fluid, close the bleeder.........To "somewhat" bleed the TOB , you press the clutch pedal down and then open the bleeder allowing the pressure plate to push the TOB back and push the lower fluid out through the bleeder. That is about as good as it will get........but that McLeod bleeder is the key.......

006.jpg


When I get to it, I am going to install the McLeod bleeder and the FRPP pre-curved stainless line, mainly to get rid of the plastic/oem line and the pre-curved hugs the firewall properly....

004.jpg


R
 

Robert M

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As for the Shelby remote clutch reservoir fitting the 2007-2009? I have A/C stuff in that corner and there is very little room next to the M/C.......

003.jpg


R
 

Robert M

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^Does the tranny need to be removed to install that McLeod line?

Thanks

I have not done it yet, but from the looks of it no, it is an "in-line" plug and play with the oem plastic line, or a replacement stainless braided or a FRPP pre-curved line, and it attaches in the same way as the oem line. The McLeod is just the bleeder, no line.

It is a neat looking piece, I am surprised no one else makes a similar bleeder, it is definitely needed and to me, it is another one of those "must install" items IMO, especially if you are right there and the system is open....

R
 

XP900

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My clutch system still gets dirty in 2 months..even after I flushed it..I have run between 1 and 1 quarts of fluid in it over the last year to keep it clean and I used the new temp Bosch 5.1 fluid ( previously used Motul) .... same results. Something from the tranny down is decomposing or rusting...I think it is the inside of the my slave cylinder. I might have the particulant sent in to have it tested since most of it can be filtered out of the fluid. I should have dried it and seen it if was magnetic.





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Robert M

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My clutch system still gets dirty in 2 months..even after I flushed it..I have run between 1 and 1 quarts of fluid in it over the last year to keep it clean and I used the new temp Bosch 5.1 fluid ( previously used Motul) .... same results. Something from the tranny down is decomposing or rusting...I think it is the inside of the my slave cylinder. I might have the particulant sent in to have it tested since most of it can be filtered out of the fluid. I should have dried it and seen it if was magnetic.





View attachment 1683895


View attachment 1683890 View attachment 1683891 View attachment 1683892 View attachment 1683893 View attachment 1683894 View attachment 1683895

Ok, I see those pictures and there is no room for anything like that in the 2007-2009. I have been thinking about the clutch master reservoir as used in the 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO, it is small and compact and has a two bolt mounting.....It could be attached to the firewall to cowl weld area or about anywhere with a small bracket......

Here is the 2004-2006 GTO clutch reservoir, and actually it is from a "retro fit to Mustang" discussion......

20160306-reservoirs1.jpg


^^^^^^^^The "L" bracket has been made for the retro fit.

R
 
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