I was just saying if you're going to run E85 and building the motor you might as well just go for 18-22psi and 800hp!
01 cobra build thread. (One step closer)
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I was just saying if you're going to run E85 and building the motor you might as well just go for 18-22psi and 800hp!
Heck yea I thought about it but I would like to take it to a level where it would be reliable and live for a while. I have zero experience with the e85 stuff. In my mind 600 rwhp from my research on other forums seems to be a safe bet on e85 and it seems and easier route compared to having to tote around a can of torco all the time What do you think I could reliably do on e85?
600 is child's play for E85. 600 is possible with pump gas with the right set up. With E85 you're looking 650+.
The only downside is mileage. I haven't managed to go full E85 yet, but with E75ish in the tank I get about 14mpg. That includes having fun with it. If I have a long trip coming up I'll go back to 91.
The only downside is mileage. I haven't managed to go full E85 yet, but with E75ish in the tank I get about 14mpg. That includes having fun with it. If I have a long trip coming up I'll go back to 91.
You are correct about 600 on e85 would 650+ be any more or less reliable than 600 on e85? Don’t want to do another 12k build anytime soon.
As long as the engine is good and the tune is right you'll be good. My centri set up was over 650 and I drove it to Vegas and AZ with no problem.
Of course you'll need to keep up with maintenance. Plugs, filter, oil, etc.
I'm sure I'm over 650 when on E85 with this car and I have no problems putting a couple hundred miles on in a day.
Will the flat top pistons be ok with the procharger? I read around and I’m getting about a 65% yes and 35% no.
You're looking at it the wrong way. The blower doesn't care what pistons you run. You need to decide on fuel type then go from there. Someone earlier calculated the compression to be above 10:1. IMO that's too high for boost on pump gas. If you're going to be full time E85 then go for it. But if you plan on running 91 mostly then I would get new pistons to drop the compression to around 9-9.5.
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Gotcha I’ve read a mixed bag on the boost thing. Some say higher compression allows a centri blower to still have decent torque down low and that lowering the compression would dog out the car down low since they don’t make full boost until high rpm. We only have 93 octane where I’m at but what’s 2 octane amongst friends lol. I’m leaning hard on e85 seems like a good insurance plan against a lot of B.S.
thats whats the thoughts running around my head... money invested... someone claculated ure compression at over 10 points... and someones else pointed out that is quite a bit for pump gas(espescially when u dont REALLY know what kinda quality ure getting from one fill up to the next).... with this being said... make sure ure mechanic KNOWS this and u are 1000 percent confident in him and his knowledge base... after all... this is now an investment.... ure mechanic should know this. what does he have to say?
I haven’t got to ask him about the pistons yet. But I can say he is the best of the best in my opinion. He works on cars that are on those tv shows so if they trust him he must be doing something right. And he has a couple 9 second street cars under his belt including his own 2015 mustang gt. Idk if you are familiar it’s Rodehaever’s hotrod shop in masontown pa. He has a website if you want to check it out.
High compression is relative. Compared to the 8.5 in the 03/04 9.5 is high compression. I wouldn't go below 9:1 on a pump gas set up. It'll still be snappy out of boost. The tune does play a part as well. I spend a lot of time tuning the part throttle for good driveability and response.
Don't forget with the built engine you'll be able to spin the blower harder. That'll change things quite a bit.
Good.. trust is everything... so is communication with the builder.... im just trying to make sure that ure getting his blessing on these moves ure making. and make SURE that u communicate that its a STREET car that HAS TO live a long-ish life... because if u dont communicate this... a builder will target max HP.... but im sure u know this... u dont want ure street car tuned or built on "kill"... know what i mean. Sometimes we get caught up and forget to emphasize this.
Yes for sure. One of his mechanics said I should get a turbo 400 4 speed auto instead of the t56 and I was like uhhh yea not gonna happen. My goal is a badass head turning street car that is somewhat ”bulletproof”. That’s why I’m highly considering the e85 route.
Ummm....if his mechanics think there was 4 speed option for the TH400 I wouldn't trust him to check the air in my tires.
I realize the 4L80E is essentially a TH400 with overdrive, but no one calls it a TH400 with overdrive.
I’m not sure the exact type or name but it was some kinda drag racing only totally non dailyable type trans.
its not against the law to change ure mind on ANYTHING.......... keep that in mind.... the money is alll green... it spends the same everywhere. We just want u to have a great finished car.... a car that is issue free and built bulletproof.
My aluminator that was 10:1 was lost to annoilimg failure of some sort. We rebuilt it at 9.5:1 running 15# on 93. Max timing is like 13-14 degrees if all air and coolant temps are good.
I messed with stuff and made things worse, had major belt slip (boost flat lined at 8# instead of 15# target), still made 560. Should still be a mid 600hp car on pump with belt slip fixed.
On the prior combo e85 and 18-19 degrees was good for around 80hp
I messed with stuff and made things worse, had major belt slip (boost flat lined at 8# instead of 15# target), still made 560. Should still be a mid 600hp car on pump with belt slip fixed.
On the prior combo e85 and 18-19 degrees was good for around 80hp
Would e85 give me a longer lasting more secure build in your opinion?
And while I’m beating you guys ears to death how about break in periods. As in the fresh bottom end and rebuilt heads and new transmission. I know the clutch needs a good 500 miles of stop and go. I was told by temec dealer transmission has none and my tuner said beat the car on the dyno right off the bat to seat the new rings properly.
Go with what the engine builder says. My last engine saw full boost within a half mile after it was warmed up. It turned 100 miles on the dyno.
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