Kennebell throttle Body issues

Robert M

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Awesome brother and thanks. I think you are correct. I just un-winded the spring and did one turn which was very tight already and I am currently testing it with zero issues. I truly hope that’s the problem as the car runs way better than before with the exception of the jerkiness of the big TB in comparison with the stock one.

I am kind of happy but I will report a final result after I finish the ride.


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I will hold off on digging out the KB TB update information until I hear back from you. "If" you need the information I have from KB, I will be happy to get it out and take pictures of what I have.......The KB info. is in a box with my original Super Snake Ford GT CAI and Dual 75 TB that was originally installed with the 725 Super Snakes in Las Vegas, you know, the rubber CAI from the earlier builds and it is buried behind a bunch of other stuff, but I can get to it if needed.........I have since moved to a GIMMEE 5 and then to a JLT Super Big Air, but the move to the GIMMEE 5 required a new KB provided tune to 750hp and that is when I also updated my Dual 75mm TB..........

R
 
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Luillo69

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The TB still has some very minor issue with it after I adjusted the spring but is 99% resolved. Way less incidents of loading gas pedal response. It seams to only happen when in 3 gear cruising around 2K-3K RPMs but for a few seconds. I just have to either put in neutral and tap the accelerator lightly or shift. It seams is related to engine load/TB angle of travel and the Throttle Body Control spring tension. I did the least tension on the spring but it might go lower. I will have to take off that small cap and take the tension again and see if it goes lower then test the car.


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Robert M

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The TB still has some very minor issue with it after I adjusted the spring but is 99% resolved. Way less incidents of loading gas pedal response. It seams to only happen when in 3 gear cruising around 2K-3K RPMs but for a few seconds. I just have to either put in neutral and tap the accelerator lightly or shift. It seams is related to engine load/TB angle of travel and the Throttle Body Control spring tension. I did the least tension on the spring but it might go lower. I will have to take off that small cap and take the tension again and see if it goes lower then test the car.


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Yes, since it is a 168, you may need to "play with it".........and tweak it......

R
 

Luillo69

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i will try to check with Lund about any advice on any possible adjustable parameters of the Throttle body angle readings and the rate at what it close. I think Willie is correct about how fast the blade close and the rate at which the TPS interprets the information. During my test the car is almost perfect until I hit it pass 4.5K RPMs. When i let off the gas quick or let it coast in gear after the hit, it acts as if the signal is lost and the TB stops working, but only then so it has improved.
 

Robert M

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i will try to check with Lund about any advice on any possible adjustable parameters of the Throttle body angle readings and the rate at what it close. I think Willie is correct about how fast the blade close and the rate at which the TPS interprets the information. During my test the car is almost perfect until I hit it pass 4.5K RPMs. When i let off the gas quick or let it coast in gear after the hit, it acts as if the signal is lost and the TB stops working, but only then so it has improved.

Cool, test and trail.....

R
 

SCALILOU

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If I recall earlier you said you messed with the "Don't ever touch, even if your life depended on it" TB screw. Maybe the issue all along was the spring and not the screw? That may be the reason for the issues you're having now. Try and twist it back to where it was prior to fixing the spring.

Data logging the issue you're having is also a plus. I'm sure Lund will want to see on paper what the TB is doing as your issue is occurring.
i will try to check with Lund about any advice on any possible adjustable parameters of the Throttle body angle readings and the rate at what it close. I think Willie is correct about how fast the blade close and the rate at which the TPS interprets the information. During my test the car is almost perfect until I hit it pass 4.5K RPMs. When i let off the gas quick or let it coast in gear after the hit, it acts as if the signal is lost and the TB stops working, but only then so it has improved.

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Luillo69

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If I recall earlier you said you messed with the "Don't ever touch, even if your life depended on it" TB screw. Maybe the issue all along was the spring and not the screw? That may be the reason for the issues you're having now. Try and twist it back to where it was prior to fixing the spring.

Data logging the issue you're having is also a plus. I'm sure Lund will want to see on paper what the TB is doing as your issue is occurring.

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I didn’t touch that screw. I adjusted the TPS but it didn’t moved much. I could datalog one more time and send it to him but I’m waiting to see what he says for now.

I was curious if I needed to adjust the screw for any reason.


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SCALILOU

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I misunderstood then, sorry about that. It might be a problem in the tune then. I'm sure Lund will work it out with you. He tuned my car when I had a 2.3 TVS , and did a great job. I have a kenne bell 2.8 LC now. Good luck with it, hope you get it squared away
I didn’t touch that screw. I adjusted the TPS but it didn’t moved much. I could datalog one more time and send it to him but I’m waiting to see what he says for now.

I was curious if I needed to adjust the screw for any reason.


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Luillo69

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I misunderstood then, sorry about that. It might be a problem in the tune then. I'm sure Lund will work it out with you. He tuned my car when I had a 2.3 TVS , and did a great job. I have a kenne bell 2.8 LC now. Good luck with it, hope you get it squared away

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You all not going to believe this shit. Lund insisted the issue was mechanical and I told him that until I can figure it out I would want to install the stock elbow and TB to enjoy the car.

Well, once I had the TB out I decided to check it out a little more in-depth. I started moving the blade with my finger and noticed that it stuck about half way very random and it wasn’t tight at all. I check the spring tension by loosing it all the way and tighten it back at the lowest and still got stuck half way 1-2 out of 10 times I tried.

Next, I moved the blade to get it stuck and when it did I decided to lose the TB control housing and it got loose. The TB closed fine, that told me something is right or jamming.

Last thing I did was to open the TB control housing and clean all gears. Then I lobbed the gears with dielectric grease to include the blade shaft where it connects to the sides of the TB and closed back up. I did a cross pattern and tighten by hand very light but secured. Tested it and no issues. Bolted back to the car and spent 1 to 1 and half hours beating the shit out and trying to get the issue to occur but it is fixed as far as I can tell. I did everything I knew was causing the issues from coasting, hard acceleration, tapping the gas, to hard pulls and not even hiccup. Now I am 100% sure is mechanical and if it happens again I either have to replace that motor or call KB to see what can be done. Although they already told me it will cost me $200 to send it to check even knowing is new after waiting 2 months.

Honestly I thing the shaft in the gears might not have enough clearance against the plastic motor casing and if you tight e tinny bolts too much, it binds.

I did added a dab of dielectric grease there too, FYI.


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Catmonkey

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Just being able to operate within the tight parameters with grease may gain you enough clearance to become less problematic after parts wear in. I'm not sure I would have used dielectric grease in that application, but lube is lube.
 

Luillo69

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Just being able to operate within the tight parameters with grease may gain you enough clearance to become less problematic after parts wear in. I'm not sure I would have used dielectric grease in that application, but lube is lube.

What other grease would be better? I used dielectric grease because is gold for moisture issues, electrics, keep dirt out, and won’t melt and drip. Plus I had it on hand, lol…


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Luillo69

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Just being able to operate within the tight parameters with grease may gain you enough clearance to become less problematic after parts wear in. I'm not sure I would have used dielectric grease in that application, but lube is lube.

Also I didn’t put a blob, I cleaned free of excess


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Robert M

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Now I am 100% sure is mechanical and if it happens again I either have to replace that motor or call KB to see what can be done. Although they already told me it will cost me $200 to send it to check even knowing is new after waiting 2 months.

Honestly I thing the shaft in the gears might not have enough clearance against the plastic motor casing and if you tight e tinny bolts too much, it binds.

I did added a dab of dielectric grease there too, FYI.


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From what I understand, that TB will not be adjusted/repaired in-house at KB, they send it back to the manufacturer and they do the adjusting/repairing and it is there shop that is not free, for checking out a now used TB.........<<That is hat I have been told.

.........and those two bushings from the TB update kit for the 2 of 3 motor bolts made no difference in the motor gear to TB gear clearance/binding issues?

R
 

Luillo69

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From what I understand, that TB will not be adjusted/repaired in-house at KB, they send it back to the manufacturer and they do the adjusting/repairing and it is there shop that is not free, for checking out a now used TB.........<<That is hat I have been told.

.........and those two bushings from the TB update kit for the 2 of 3 motor bolts made no difference in the motor gear to TB gear clearance/binding issues?

R

I don't think those bushing make any difference. I think the shaft that holds the internal gears binds in the plastic case of the electronic motor and the gears need lube. I just did another 1-2 hours ride in traffic and highway and nothing to report. The issue as far as i can tell is gone 100%.

You are correct, KB sends the TB for repair and have them manufacture by an outsource company. My issue is that my 1 week brand new TB is not to be considered used, it is to be considered under warrantee if is not correctly functioning. They pretty much sold me a defective product.

The real issue is the Quality control or marketing section is not on point. If the marketing section is made aware of this issues by using their customer satisfaction research section, they would find that there is an issue in their QA section. It is as of now an easy, easy fix. either better installation instructions or warnings against over tighten and proper lubrication or a minor clearance adjustment during manufacturing.

Their TB binds somewhere and that is the issue 100% no doubt. There is no tuning to chase for my situation and those of many other. The datalog shows pedal activity but the TB is stuck and not responding. Other might have different issues. Surges are a different case in my opinion.
 

Robert M

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I don't think those bushing make any difference. I think the shaft that holds the internal gears binds in the plastic case of the electronic motor and the gears need lube. I just did another 1-2 hours ride in traffic and highway and nothing to report. The issue as far as i can tell is gone 100%.

You are correct, KB sends the TB for repair and have them manufacture by an outsource company. My issue is that my 1 week brand new TB is not to be considered used, it is to be considered under warrantee if is not correctly functioning. They pretty much sold me a defective product.

The real issue is the Quality control or marketing section is not on point. If the marketing section is made aware of this issues by using their customer satisfaction research section, they would find that there is an issue in their QA section. It is as of now an easy, easy fix. either better installation instructions or warnings against over tighten and proper lubrication or a minor clearance adjustment during manufacturing.

Their TB binds somewhere and that is the issue 100% no doubt. There is no tuning to chase for my situation and those of many other. The datalog shows pedal activity but the TB is stuck and not responding. Other might have different issues. Surges are a different case in my opinion.


Ok, and it is cool that you were able to work it out............and yes there should be warranty period where issues are resolved AND THEN if it is deemed to be an installation issue, then it is repaired at the buyers expense, but it does not sound like it was going that direction from your description.....

R
 

Luillo69

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Ok, and it is cool that you were able to work it out............and yes there should be warranty period where issues are resolved AND THEN if it is deemed to be an installation issue, then it is repaired at the buyers expense, but it does not sound like it was going that direction from your description.....

R

I’m really hoping. If the grease dries and the issue starts again then is not on installation. But God, I tightened that very very light. I thought it might come lose later on.


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Robert M

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I’m really hoping. If the grease dries and the issue starts again then is not on installation. But God, I tightened that very very light. I thought it might come lose later on.


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The binding that you mentioned when tightening the motor screws was why I mentioned the bushings, I was thinking (but not positive) that the bushings were added to the KB TB update to fix issues like binding and gear contact?

R
 

Luillo69

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The binding that you mentioned when tightening the motor screws was why I mentioned the bushings, I was thinking (but not positive) that the bushings were added to the KB TB update to fix issues like binding and gear contact?

R
An update for today. Let the car warm up and went for a run. This time at the highway mostly in 3rd or 4th gear. I tried to test the car on bight RPMs and nothing until one single moment. If I recall i was in 3rd gear around 4K RPMs and hit the car heavy on the gas up to 5K and let of quickly then lost the throttle. Off and on the ignition and back to normal, never did it again.

my next step is a new stock Ford TB to swap electronics to ensure I’m good. I am 99.9% is the servo and the plastic casing causing it. Other than that I am 2 hours burning gas in the toy and no issues. This KB huge TB is delicate that’s all I think.
 

Robert M

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An update for today. Let the car warm up and went for a run. This time at the highway mostly in 3rd or 4th gear. I tried to test the car on bight RPMs and nothing until one single moment. If I recall i was in 3rd gear around 4K RPMs and hit the car heavy on the gas up to 5K and let of quickly then lost the throttle. Off and on the ignition and back to normal, never did it again.

my next step is a new stock Ford TB to swap electronics to ensure I’m good. I am 99.9% is the servo and the plastic casing causing it. Other than that I am 2 hours burning gas in the toy and no issues. This KB huge TB is delicate that’s all I think.

I have read that about the 168 in numerous forum threads.......

R
 

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