Long story but hoping yall can help, I just picked up my Cobra in January, it’s a 1996 with the following known engine mods:
- Procharger P-1SC with Open Race BOV and 3 Core Intercooler
- 42 lbs/hour injectors
- VMP blow through MAF
- Unknown Fuel Pump
When I purchased the vehicle, I replaced the pulley seal on the P-1SC and got it remounted with a new Gates belt as the previous owner advised the last belt had shredded. I have since replaced spark plugs with NGK TR6 gapped at .030, replaced the IAC, installed brand new OEM NGK 02 sensors, a new Bosch 4.2 wideband sensor for the AEM AFR gauge, as well as replacing the Fuel Filter.
I took it for a test spin and it pulled hard in second gear, but I noticed it had no turn signals or brakes lights. The car sat for about a month while I resolved that issue (clutch arm wore through the brake/turn signal wire causing a short to ground blowing fuses). During this time, I discovered an old Viper Alarm under the dash and removed it, the only issue I had was using a butt connector to reconnect the ignition so I could start the car. I also at this time replaced my fusible links between the voltage regulator and the under-hood fuse box. They were replaced in the Ford (Warranty) approved manner, of using a non-insulated butt connector and high-quality heat shrink.
I then proceeded to fill the car with some 93 (from Speedway) which I now know is not optimal, will be using Shell from here out. The car drives great and low and part throttle, so after cruising for a little bit I decided to try a quick pull in first gear… as soon as I went WOT the car just shut down like fuel or spark was completely cut. It’s not a breaking-up or just down on power, it’s like a complete cut… however, the car doesn’t die. I immediately let out thinking I had blown a coupler from the charge pipes. However, my vacuum was good and upon inspection I found no-couplers loose. No CEL’s or codes even after multiples pulls exhibiting the issue. If I stay at part throttle, I have gotten past the cutout rpm of 3k to 3.5k and gone up to 4k in second gear with no cut. It drives smooth with no bucking or misfires at part throttle, it’s only at WOT that it cuts (see attached videos).
While waiting for my new laptop to arrive so I can update the SCT X4 I purchased and start data-logging, I replaced the fuel filter and used live data on my Autel code clearer and got:
Spark Advance at idle: 16.0 to 19.0
MAF: .01 to .03 (lbs/s)
02B1S1: 0.955
02B2S1: 0.910
Fuel Trims were all zero
Monday, I checked fuel pressure at the rail, and at key on engine off I had 30 psi, 35 psi at idle holding, and with the vacuum line detached from the regulator it jumped to 45 psi. The 5 min leak down held 35 psi, though the gauge didn’t drop when it was removed until I disconnected the lines so maybe I didn’t do something right? I’m going to see if the gauge is long enough to run it under the cowl, and tape it to the windshield to see what fuel pressure does while driving and under a pull as well. I suppose if the fuel pump is starting to fail, and can’t keep under WOT that might explain the issue.
So, the laptop arrived last night and in anticipation I was hoping you could identify which PID’s would be helpful for figuring out why I’m having the cut-out at WOT.
- Procharger P-1SC with Open Race BOV and 3 Core Intercooler
- 42 lbs/hour injectors
- VMP blow through MAF
- Unknown Fuel Pump
When I purchased the vehicle, I replaced the pulley seal on the P-1SC and got it remounted with a new Gates belt as the previous owner advised the last belt had shredded. I have since replaced spark plugs with NGK TR6 gapped at .030, replaced the IAC, installed brand new OEM NGK 02 sensors, a new Bosch 4.2 wideband sensor for the AEM AFR gauge, as well as replacing the Fuel Filter.
I took it for a test spin and it pulled hard in second gear, but I noticed it had no turn signals or brakes lights. The car sat for about a month while I resolved that issue (clutch arm wore through the brake/turn signal wire causing a short to ground blowing fuses). During this time, I discovered an old Viper Alarm under the dash and removed it, the only issue I had was using a butt connector to reconnect the ignition so I could start the car. I also at this time replaced my fusible links between the voltage regulator and the under-hood fuse box. They were replaced in the Ford (Warranty) approved manner, of using a non-insulated butt connector and high-quality heat shrink.
I then proceeded to fill the car with some 93 (from Speedway) which I now know is not optimal, will be using Shell from here out. The car drives great and low and part throttle, so after cruising for a little bit I decided to try a quick pull in first gear… as soon as I went WOT the car just shut down like fuel or spark was completely cut. It’s not a breaking-up or just down on power, it’s like a complete cut… however, the car doesn’t die. I immediately let out thinking I had blown a coupler from the charge pipes. However, my vacuum was good and upon inspection I found no-couplers loose. No CEL’s or codes even after multiples pulls exhibiting the issue. If I stay at part throttle, I have gotten past the cutout rpm of 3k to 3.5k and gone up to 4k in second gear with no cut. It drives smooth with no bucking or misfires at part throttle, it’s only at WOT that it cuts (see attached videos).
While waiting for my new laptop to arrive so I can update the SCT X4 I purchased and start data-logging, I replaced the fuel filter and used live data on my Autel code clearer and got:
Spark Advance at idle: 16.0 to 19.0
MAF: .01 to .03 (lbs/s)
02B1S1: 0.955
02B2S1: 0.910
Fuel Trims were all zero
Monday, I checked fuel pressure at the rail, and at key on engine off I had 30 psi, 35 psi at idle holding, and with the vacuum line detached from the regulator it jumped to 45 psi. The 5 min leak down held 35 psi, though the gauge didn’t drop when it was removed until I disconnected the lines so maybe I didn’t do something right? I’m going to see if the gauge is long enough to run it under the cowl, and tape it to the windshield to see what fuel pressure does while driving and under a pull as well. I suppose if the fuel pump is starting to fail, and can’t keep under WOT that might explain the issue.
So, the laptop arrived last night and in anticipation I was hoping you could identify which PID’s would be helpful for figuring out why I’m having the cut-out at WOT.