rear diff oil change
- Thread starter yosvany
- Start date
step 1: remove housing assembly from car
step 2: drain
step 3: refill with 75w-150 and limited slip additive
step 4: reinstall housing assembly
if you're really slick you could drill and tap the housing for a drain plug while you have it on the work bench.
change your fuel filter while you have the housing out.
step 2: drain
step 3: refill with 75w-150 and limited slip additive
step 4: reinstall housing assembly
if you're really slick you could drill and tap the housing for a drain plug while you have it on the work bench.
change your fuel filter while you have the housing out.
HOLY CRAP, thas a shitload work, how about if i try to siphon the fluid out,
could that work.
80K MILES
It is a lot of work, but a good time investment with the other things you can get at like mentioned above. I found a bad carrier bearing; yeah it sucks, but the time worth taking it down can help find other problems that need addressed.
I have been using a siphon pump that looks like a little bicycle pump to change my gear oil. I just drained and refilled the pumpkin last week, and measured the volume of old that I withdrew. It was the same as the amount I put in last time (with new gears and diff), so I think the pump does a pretty good job.
Still, I wish I had a drain plug on the pumpkin. That would speed up the process significantly, but I was impatient to get the rear end back in the car. Next time I pull the carrier, I'll be sure to install a plug.
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With the diff in the car, up high on jack stands.
I cut open an antifreeze jug,
put my drill inside it(to protect it from the drippings),
and drilled a hole into the jug,
then drilled up into the bottom of the diff hsng.
After it was done draining, I drilled it to the bigger size I needed and tapped it for the drain plug I selected.
I then sprayed about 2 cans of brake clean(at the same time) into the fill hole, to flush out any Aluminum left in there from drilling and tapping.
Teflon tape on the plug and done.
Now my yearly fluid changes are cake.:beer:
I cut open an antifreeze jug,
put my drill inside it(to protect it from the drippings),
and drilled a hole into the jug,
then drilled up into the bottom of the diff hsng.
After it was done draining, I drilled it to the bigger size I needed and tapped it for the drain plug I selected.
I then sprayed about 2 cans of brake clean(at the same time) into the fill hole, to flush out any Aluminum left in there from drilling and tapping.
Teflon tape on the plug and done.
Now my yearly fluid changes are cake.:beer:
That is pretty awesome Jimmysidecar has a great method :beer:
If you have to you can pump it out. The plug is hard to get to and fits and 3/8" drive extension. Just pump out as much as you can and then fill with fresh fluid until it runs out.
Use Motorcraft 75W-140 synthetic gear oil with 4 ounces of Motorcraft friction modifier.
If you have to you can pump it out. The plug is hard to get to and fits and 3/8" drive extension. Just pump out as much as you can and then fill with fresh fluid until it runs out.
Use Motorcraft 75W-140 synthetic gear oil with 4 ounces of Motorcraft friction modifier.
now thats what i call using your brain, thanks..
I had a leak and took my car to the dealer with about 35,500 miles.. they resealed the rear-end and while in there, replaced the bearings on the side's of the differential..
What happened to just taking out the plug and filling it up to the top, or is that something else?
With 80K miles I would consider getting the diff. rebuilt while you're at it. Especially if you race it at all or the previous owner did. Also I have seen elsewhere that if you use the Royal Purple brand you do not need the friction modifier.
drain rear
I used an electric fluid pump (easy) and fish tank aquarium 3/8 clear tubing cut into two. BOX of rubber gloves, paper towels, cold refreshments / your choice.
1. block front tires, jack up rear on jack stands.
2. remove drivers side exhaust, spare tire and rubber plug below it, insert fill hose 3ft.
3. remove drain plug with 3/8 drive, from right rear of IRS cover, insert drain hose 4ft.
4. pump out 1.5 qt fluid with your choice of pump, remove drain hose.
5. insert fill hose from trunk, refill .5qt with pump, remove fill hose.
6. insert drain hose, pump out .5qt to flush out left over old dark fluid.
8. refill with 1.3L of 75/140 mobil1 LS mixed with 4oz. FORD friction modifier = 1.4L
9. replace /clean magnetic plug, exhaust, rubber plug, spare tire.
I used an electric fluid pump (easy) and fish tank aquarium 3/8 clear tubing cut into two. BOX of rubber gloves, paper towels, cold refreshments / your choice.
1. block front tires, jack up rear on jack stands.
2. remove drivers side exhaust, spare tire and rubber plug below it, insert fill hose 3ft.
3. remove drain plug with 3/8 drive, from right rear of IRS cover, insert drain hose 4ft.
4. pump out 1.5 qt fluid with your choice of pump, remove drain hose.
5. insert fill hose from trunk, refill .5qt with pump, remove fill hose.
6. insert drain hose, pump out .5qt to flush out left over old dark fluid.
8. refill with 1.3L of 75/140 mobil1 LS mixed with 4oz. FORD friction modifier = 1.4L
9. replace /clean magnetic plug, exhaust, rubber plug, spare tire.
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