Twin Disc Clutch Recomendations...

pony23

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I love my McLeod RXT. Pedal feel is great. Tons of holding power. It did fine on the Dyno for me with about 750 miles on it. My buddy running the dyno couldn't believe how light the pedal felt.
 

99 KOBRA

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I've got about 800 miles on a new McLeod twin disk and love it! Pedal effort is a little less than stock and the chatter is going away as the miles increase.
 

EvilTwins

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I see everyone likes the normal names out there but I installed an Advanced Clutch Technologies (ACT) twin disc and it is GREAT! No problems what’s so ever, engages beautiful, it's rebuild able and comes with the flywheel already balanced. The guys there are really cool and have been around for years (mostly high horse power imports) but they are getting into the domestic scene more and more. I recommend them 100%. Good luck on your choice.

What was the install like? Did it require a lot of adjusting and an adjustable pivot ball etc.? I really wish there was more feedback out there on the ACT, or for the SPEC for that matter.

I'm ordering my clutch in the next couple of days and as of right now I'm going with the SPEC P-trim (rated at 1395lb/ft). If I knew more about the ACT I would consider it. They have been making awesome quality clutches for a long time!

ACT still don't even list a twin disc as available for our cars out their site, which really pisses me off...
 
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JPB

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Just purchased a McCleod RXT from Lethal with a steel fidanza flywheel. I'll let ya'll know how she does.
 

4rdsvtdriver

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Can anyone answer this question?

I test drove a GT500 this weekend and the clutch is about 20% pedal effort compared to my 04 cobra (stock clutch). Actually, its almost as easy as my Focus. Is this difference due to the change to the dual clutch or possibly something else such as new hydraulic system, etc?

My leg would really appreciate any info regarding this, thanks all in advance.

Are you kidding me? :shrug: My GT500 has the most stout clutch of all the vehicles I've owned. Even more so than my 04 Cobra. Hell...My left calf is bigger than my right. I put my car into neutral at lights, traffic etc. Stop and go traffic my leg is shaking pushing this thing in and it's the stock clutch! :cuss:
 

bigdog93lx

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OK i just had a Ram TD clutch put in and i finally picked it up today. The pedal feel is effortless, honestly i feel like i pushing in the clutch of a honda civic. The clutch grabs alot quicker and has alot less play.

I have only driven the car around for a total of about 15-20 miles trying to get a feeling for the clutch and break it in a little. It shifted very smooth and i had zero problems with it while driving, a little bit of clutch smell here and there but hey its brand new. The only problem i have with it so far is that both I and the mechanic had a tough time getting it into 1st gear and reverse. I drove the car home and let it sit for 5 minutes pulled the car out in reverse and i couldn't get it back into 1st or reverse without forcing it hard into gear.

Couple questions:

I told my mechanic i would take it for a while and break it in a little and see if got better because he had the same problem once with it when he took it for a ride. Is this something that will get better over time? Should i break the clutch in a little more and hope it disengages fully?

Or is this clutch just not setup perfectly where we should be adjusting the pivot-ball for a better disengagment?

It is a PITA to pull the tranny because of my longtube headers. It takes close to a day for him to pull of the passenger-side header and drop the tranny. I don't want to have to do that 3-4 times. Is there any way of making sure it is perfectly adjusted before you put the transmission back in?

-Sean
 

Jroc

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^ Give it some miles to break in. It should stiffen up. When new the petal effort on my clutch was rediculiously soft. Too soft = crappy. You don't want it overly stiff, but you want a good feel. It should give it to you after you break it in for a couple hundred miles. If your clutch disengages high in its stroke that is a good thing and you will learn to like it, trust me it just takes some getting use to.

If your clutch isn't fully disengaging then you probably have a problem. Mine was the pressure plate wasn't torqued down evenly on both sides so it wasn't fully disengaging, and was only using half the clutch. Caused me all kinds of headaches, and we dropped the tranny 3 or 4 times before we found the problem.

With a TD there isn't much room for error, as the extra disc, and friction plate take up alot of extra space inside the pressure plate. Still once you get them setup right they are great.
 

bigdog93lx

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SO it is just a guess and check method while adjusting the pivot-ball and clutch fork angle? You would think there is some way of measuring and checking everything before you put it all back together.
 

EvilTwins

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I went with the SPEC twin P trim. We'll see how it goes.

Yeah that's what I went with too. It should be a good clutch but I guess we'll see :)

It's going to be interesting to see how it installs! The way SPEC describe it it should just drop right in in place of the stocker with no adjustments needed. But I obviously don't think that's the case so I have an adjustable pivot ball, aftermarket quadrant, firewall adjuster, adjustable cable (not installed but I have it just in case) and the LDC freeplay mod. I guess I'll see what I need!
 
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FlaSeaDude

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...Couple questions:

I told my mechanic i would take it for a while and break it in a little and see if got better because he had the same problem once with it when he took it for a ride. Is this something that will get better over time? Should i break the clutch in a little more and hope it disengages fully?

Or is this clutch just not setup perfectly where we should be adjusting the pivot-ball for a better disengagment?

It is a PITA to pull the tranny because of my longtube headers. It takes close to a day for him to pull of the passenger-side header and drop the tranny. I don't want to have to do that 3-4 times. Is there any way of making sure it is perfectly adjusted before you put the transmission back in?

-Sean

I also have a RAM dual disc clutch. We had to install the tranny 5 or 6 times on my Cobra to get the pivot ball adjustment correct. We also had to slightly notch the fork so that it would have a little more travel. Needless to say it was a PITA getting everything adjusted, but it was worth it as I don't have any issues with getting the tranny into 1st or reverse.:bowdown:

Also, what kind of headers do you have on your car? I just bought some MAC ceramic coated headers and was hoping to get them installed in the next couple of months. However, if they're going to be in the way whenever I have to drop the tranny, I may rethink my decision to install them...:shrug:
 

bigdog93lx

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I have BBK longtubes. But i think one of the LT headers have enough clearance where you don't have to remove them. It might be the kooks LT but don't quote me on that.
 

bigdog93lx

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I have BBK longtubes. But i think one of the LT headers have enough clearance where you don't have to remove them. It might be the kooks LT but don't quote me on that.

It weird though its only intermittent when it doesn't go into 1st or reverse so i guess it must be just a little off. Do you remember what your pivot ball height was set at? Do you have the LDC clutch freeplay mod, Fire wall adjuster and quadrant? I need to pick up the LDC freeplay mod. My clutch pedal is shaking cause there is so much slack at the top.
 

jumperjack

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I run the Mcleod RXT Twin and hands down the best clutch I have had. The install is a PITA due to close clearances but if done properly this clutch is lighter than stock pedal and holds like a vise.
 

FlaSeaDude

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I have BBK longtubes. But i think one of the LT headers have enough clearance where you don't have to remove them. It might be the kooks LT but don't quote me on that.

It weird though its only intermittent when it doesn't go into 1st or reverse so i guess it must be just a little off. Do you remember what your pivot ball height was set at? Do you have the LDC clutch freeplay mod, Fire wall adjuster and quadrant? I need to pick up the LDC freeplay mod. My clutch pedal is shaking cause there is so much slack at the top.

I'm thinking the final length was right agound 1.1 to 1.15 inches. We tried everything between 0.85 to 1.25 inches. I have the LDC freeplay mod, Fiore firewall adjuster and Fiore quadrant. There's no slack in my clutch cable and it will shift easily through all the gears.

Now, if I could only get rid of that annoying "rattling marbles in a tin can" sound when the clutch pedal is depressed...:cuss:
 

bigdog93lx

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I just orders the LDC freeplay mod to tighten up the slack and jiggling in my clutch pedal. But this thing shifts like crap and needs some adjustment. I got stuck in traffic for about an hour last week and didn't dare take it out of gear because i was pretty sure it wasn't gonna go back in. Got to my friends house and let it cool off for 5-6 hours and couldn't get the damn thing in gear to save my life. I knew the clutch wasn't completely disengaging because when i would try to put it into 1st or reverse the car would try to lurch forward with the clutch pedal to the floor.

Gonna have my guy try and adjust it one more time, after that its going in the trash. I can't afford to pull my trans 5 times with my LT headers. And its not like my installer is just your average mechanic. He builds custom cars to kit cars, can fab up anything, and does track racing up in NH. Live and ya learn, i'll do more research next time instead of jumping on a really good deal (or not).
 
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