Holding flywheel steady?

doubleblack

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How do you guys keep the flywheel from moving when bolting/unbolting it. Do you use that special flywheel tool? if so, where do you purchase one? Any other way to do it?
 

JBN

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The stock flywheel is aluminum and very light, shouldnt have any trouble holding it in place while threading in a few bolts.

If its an aftermarket steel one, it's easiest to put it up to the crank and put in on that little lip. It's really never been an issue for me or anything to be concerned about.:shrug:
 

SVTgsxrdude

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+1 evan if it is a steel one just git one of your buddys to help out for a sec :beer:
 

96badvenm

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un bolting it i had my buddy put a ratchet in the crank pulley to keep the motor from turning over. Bolting it back down i was able to hold the flywheel in one hand and the torque wrench in the other, it wasnt hard to keep it from spinning.

what ever you do, do not spend $190 dollars on that tool! That is rediculous!
 

Nutty 5.0

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Look around in the garage for some kind of flat bracket that you can drill a hole into. I use this method and its free! Of course providing you have some kind of bracket to do this.
 

doubleblack

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JBN

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SVTgsxrdude

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i used a block of wood between the floor and flywheel and had my frend hold it in place i also used the hand holding thing that was a pain in the ass for me so i came up with the block of wood
 

96badvenm

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if you have a buddy helping you, have them at the front of the motor with a ratchet, or breaker bar in the crank pulley. Simple, no special tool, or bracket needed
 

wildstang_93

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I can understand this with removal, but what about install?

And what about the pressure plate bolts?

i put them back on with a impact also , i just use a torque extension ,like you would use on wheels . and i just use a 3/8 impact on the pressure plate . i have done about 50 this way without a problem on any of them .
 

wjurls

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Best and cheapest method is to use a c-clamp and two small blocks of wood (1"x3" firing strips are perfect). Use the wood like 2 pieces of bread and sandwich the flywheel with the clamp in the cutout for the starter. The wood cushions the flywheel so you don't damage it. It will now only turn a few degrees in either direction before the clamp contacts the engine block and locks it in place. You will never get an acurate torque to yield on those bolts with a freind holding the flywheel in place. To much flex and give will give an inaccurate torque. Kind of like how a flexible fishing rod allows you to catch a 10 pound fish with 2 pound test line.
 

TRBO VNM

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i put them back on with a impact also , i just use a torque extension ,like you would use on wheels . and i just use a 3/8 impact on the pressure plate . i have done about 50 this way without a problem on any of them .

you realize that the pressure plate bolts are a torq to yield and are 33 lb-ft and then an additional 60 degrees right?

while you may have done 50 that way, I prefer doing it right, whether it is 1, 50 or 100+. using the torq extension on the flywheel bolts I am sure is fine if you are using 70 lb-ft extension, if I remember correctly the flywheel bolts are 66 lb-ft. they may be 63, but I would have to check the book to be sure. But within a few ft-lb should be fine.

either way, to each their own. I would never do something like that and take the risk, but that is just me. there are torq specs for a reason and tightening a pressure plate properly is something to be concerned with or it will not wear correctly and may not even engage/dissengage properly even though it appears so when you are done with your impact.

to the OP, like I mentioned in my pm to you, I use a pry bar between the teeth and the kmember/frame rail where they bolt together at the lower point. At the smaller 15mm kmember bolt location.
 

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