How do I stop my car from running lean?

[RyneLightning]

F the plugs. Verify what tube you have with C&L, and I'd double check the EEC too. The red tube is the correct one if the car has an A9L. Is there a number stamped on it also?

Honestly, and this is just my experience and opinion, I'd ditch the C&L and go with an electronically calibrated meter. The C&L's can and do work, but the other meters just work soooo much better and aren't as fickle when adding power adders and making other engine modifications.

x2 on that. The C&L's are the least favorable unit to go with. You also need to verify FOR SURE that you have 30# injectors. You ALSO need to verify which EEC you have, and visually inspect whether it is chipped or not.

So I need to look at the actual computer under the dash right? And as far as verifying the injectors....is it just by color?
And i looked on the C&L website, and with the 76mm for the 5.0 red is for the 38lb injectors.

heres the MAF

and the plugs...grey/white powder look....

 

[buddha93]

Well, the plugs are kinda hard to make out. The porcelain should be a nice grayish-tan color. The electrode should be fairly clean with no white or soot on it.

Yes, the EEC is located behind the kick panel on the passenger side of the car. I would do this next to see exactly what it is.......process of elimination. I'm really curious to see if they swapped out the Cobra processor for an A9L......or some other variation.

 

[RyneLightning]

Well, the plugs are kinda hard to make out. The porcelain should be a nice grayish-tan color. The electrode should be fairly clean with no white or soot on it.

Yes, the EEC is located behind the kick panel on the passenger side of the car. I would do this next to see exactly what it is.......process of elimination. I'm really curious to see if they swapped out the Cobra processor for an A9L......or some other variation.

I just looked and although the MAF is 73mm and not 76mm, it is still the wrong color, and the computer is the EEC not A9L, and the injectors are the 30lb injectors.

 

[buddha93]

Ok, hold on man.

EEC is just an acronym for Electronic Engine Control. You need to look at again and verify what EEC it is. There should be a label/sticker with this information like this:

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/2421/a9l001.jpg

See the A9L in top, right-hand corner?

 

[RyneLightning]

Ok, hold on man.

EEC is just an acronym for Electronic Engine Control. You need to look at again and verify what EEC it is. There should be a label/sticker with this information like this:

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/2421/a9l001.jpg

See the A9L in top, right-hand corner?

Its an A3M computer. Not even a cobra a F****** computer, i'm guessing due to the 347 transplant it went under a couple years back. So what does this mean?

 

[RyneLightning]

Ok so basically, from what I understand, the A9L and the A3M are the exact same thing! The A3M is the replacement for the A9L, so say if you want to buy a new A9L from ford, they will send you an A3M.....

This in turn means that the RED sample tube is right, it is for 30lb injectors on the A9L (which is the A3M).

WHAT NOW!!!???

Ryne

 

[buddha93]

Yep, you are correct about the EEC. Well, toss that out of the mix.............for now. And you now know for future reference what you have.

If it's throwing the MIL, it's worth checking out what codes they are. Sometimes they can point you in the right direction, and other times they don't do you a bit of good.

I'd try putting 38-40 psi on the FP and see what that does. For whatever reason, it's set lower than stock. It will either make it worse, better, or it won't change a bit. But it's an easy thing to do and one more item to eliminate.

After that you still have the O2's and TFI also.

I know it's frustrating, but it just takes time, especially when you don't know all of the in's and out's of the car.

 

[RyneLightning]

Yep, you are correct about the EEC. Well, toss that out of the mix.............for now. And you now know for future reference what you have.

If it's throwing the MIL, it's worth checking out what codes they are. Sometimes they can point you in the right direction, and other times they don't do you a bit of good.

I'd try putting 38-40 psi on the FP and see what that does. For whatever reason, it's set lower than stock. It will either make it worse, better, or it won't change a bit. But it's an easy thing to do and one more item to eliminate.

After that you still have the O2's and TFI also.

I know it's frustrating, but it just takes time, especially when you don't know all of the in's and out's of the car.

So to adjust the fuel regulator, i turn the allen screw CCW? and is the vacuum on it the hose on the very top?
I'm going to try to get it to a race shop near by and see whats going on.....

 

[buddha93]

Turn it whatever way cranks the allen scew DOWN into the regulator. This car does have an adjustable one, right? Usually the hose is off to the side.

 

[RyneLightning]

Turn it whatever way cranks the allen scew DOWN into the regulator. This car does have an adjustable one, right? Usually the hose is off to the side.

Yes it is adjustable, I'll get in there tomorrow and see what happens.

 

[buddha93]

Let us know how it goes, good or bad.

 

[RyneLightning]

UPDATE:

Alright, today I pulled off the cone filter, and put the stock air box on it. And let me just say that in itself was a major difference. I drove it out to lunch, and it ran fine the whole time, it pulled great! But then when I got back in the car after lunch, it didn't want to idle, it kept on trying to shut off on me, and then I could feel a little bit of the hesitation in a pull on my way back also. So I got back to the shop and bumped the FP up to 32lb w/ Vacuum tube still on. Took it out on the road and it ran like a champ as far as the hesitation in WOT issue. So that problem seems to be resolved. Now it is the idle, it just jumps up and down between 1k-and 500rpms. And it goes in a sequence, up once-down once, up once-and then it tries to shut off on me everytime on that second down. So I pulled of the IAC and cleaned it out, put it back on, and it didn't fix the issue. SO I took it back out to see if it still ran strong and it did.

What could be causing the idle malfunction? My first thought was timing?

Thanks.
Ryne

 

[93Cobra#2771]

Disconnect your battery for 30 minutes. Drive car through multiple start up cycles and 20 or 30 miles. Then report on idle quality. It's takes a bit of time to relearn the idle.

Also, get the code pulled.

Sorry I didn't chime in quick enough on the c&L plus cone filter. They are well known for that.

 

[buddha93]

Ok, at this point it sounds like it's the meter. There are some things to try to make it idle better.

What position is the MAF clocked at? Is the sensor facing up?

 

[93Cobra#2771]

Clocking is definitely the next step (I'm now at my computer instead of typing on a phone). By clocking, we mean rotating the MAF so that the sampling tube is in a different position. VERY IMPORTANT: You must disconnect the battery for 30 minutes to clear KAMRF fuel trims. Otherwise, your clocking won't have any effect at first, then will gradually change. You want the idle to be relearned IMMEDIATELY.

And get that code pulled.

 

[buddha93]

Here's some additional info that is a must:

[ame=http://www.stangtuning.com/showthread.php?t=1430]Stang Tuning Support Forums[/ame]

With the KOEO, get the TPS to read 1.0v.......or as close as you can get it. Then fire it up and clock the meter until it finds a somewhat happy spot. Hopefully at that point you can come back in and set the idlle according to the above link.

I put a C&L on my buddy's car a few years back (in protest) and it seems like IIRC it likes to sit in the 2-3 o'clock position, but every car is a bit different. That is, with the top of the meter facing inward. I guess I missed the cone filter thing somewhere along the way. They absolutely have to have the panel filter in place. They even told him that when he purchased it.

Did I mention replacing that meter yet................

 

[RyneLightning]

Clocking is definitely the next step (I'm now at my computer instead of typing on a phone). By clocking, we mean rotating the MAF so that the sampling tube is in a different position. VERY IMPORTANT: You must disconnect the battery for 30 minutes to clear KAMRF fuel trims. Otherwise, your clocking won't have any effect at first, then will gradually change. You want the idle to be relearned IMMEDIATELY.

And get that code pulled.

Ok I disconnected the battery and have the MAF set right at 12 o'clock, maybe a very very tiny bit to the left of straight up, but it has a good idle as of now, I am going to try to find someone to pull that code for me tomorrow.

 

[RyneLightning]

Backfired again today. I'm having a guy look at it tonight.

What is a better meter that I could get?

 

[buddha93]

I'm partial to Pro-M's. I've had a few of them, including one on my car now. Love em'.

Mustang 89-93 Mass Air Meter, 30Lb Injectors, 75Mm, 5.0L, Black Plastic, For Use With Fenderwell Cold Air Kit by Pro-M at LRS - Same Day Shipping!

I ton of guys are using the SCT stuff now, and I know a lot tuners like them also. They start at a 90mm size I believe, and require an adapter harness, as well as an adapter for the filter.

Anderson has a DBX, but I don't know much about them, or anyone running them. PMAS is another one out there, but I can't say I know anything about them either.

If you do get another meter, I would opt for one calibrated for a cold air kit.

I'm all for changing the meter too something else, but try and figure out what the current problem is. You can toss all kinds of money and new parts, only to find it was a $10 part or a corroded wire.

 

[RyneLightning]

Alright I have the codes!

(41) - Lean in bank 1
(91) - Lean in bank 2
(33) - EGR Flow (EGR is plugged)
(18) - Loss of Spark (the guy said it is probably because of the MSD)

So I guess I'll be ordering a new meter.
Would the plastic one be ok?