How do I stop my car from running lean?

[buddha93]

Did you ever crank the FP up to around 40 psi? Might want to give it one last hurah before you drop $200+.

Nothing wrong with the plastic ones.........the 80 I have in my fenderwell is plastic.

Also, looking at your codes, I wouldn't sweat the EGR code......I've seen a million times on different car and once you clear up your "issue", it'll go away.

Also, looking at the Code 18, is the spout plugged in?

 

[RyneLightning]

Did you ever crank the FP up to around 40 psi? Might want to give it one last hurah before you drop $200+.

Nothing wrong with the plastic ones.........the 80 I have in my fenderwell is plastic.

Also, looking at your codes, I wouldn't sweat the EGR code......I've seen a million times on different car and once you clear up your "issue", it'll go away.

Also, looking at the Code 18, is the spout plugged in?

Yeah I bumped it up, and it only made it idle worse, so I dropped it back down and it does better, its sitting at about 30psi w/vacuum.

But what do you mean by spout?

 

[buddha93]

Well, that would explain why the previous owner had it bumped down. If everything was working the way it's supposed to, you would be able to run 38-40 psi.........which is where it needs to be.

The distributor has a pigtail hanging from it for lack of a better description. There is a grey plug on the end of it. That plug is removed when setting the base timing, and then reinstalled after timing changes have been made. The code 18 also shows that circuit open during run mode.

 

[RyneLightning]

Well, that would explain why the previous owner had it bumped down. If everything was working the way it's supposed to, you would be able to run 38-40 psi.........which is where it needs to be.

The distributor has a pigtail hanging from it for lack of a better description. There is a grey plug on the end of it. That plug is removed when setting the base timing, and then reinstalled after timing changes have been made. The code 18 also shows that circuit open during run mode.

Oh yeah the spout is in, I was messing with the timing today and had it out, but I put it back in. I knew it had to be out or the timing wouldn't adjust.

So with this new meter I should be able to bump up the FP?

 

[buddha93]

Well, assuming the current MAF is a little out of whack, then yes. Hell, you should be able to go even higher than that (within reason) if you could get that idle lined out.

With some tinkering, clocking, and a few other things, I think you could get what you have to work but it just takes someone who has had that stuff before to work. Major PITA, but whatever works I suppose.

I put the exact same MAF/injector setup on my buddies car and it took a little finese, but we got the car to idle decent. When all was said and done, it made over 300rwhp with a H/C/I combination.

I still stress though, that's assuming that the C&L is the culprit, and only the culprit.

 

[93Cobra#2771]

BEfore you start dropping coin on parts, we need to try a few more things. You need to get some electrical contact cleaner and clean the maf sensing unit. You also need to look REAL hard for any vacuum leaks. You can do a search on the corral.net on how to do them.

Both banks showing lean is serious business. Disconnect the battery for thirty and then set that FP where it is supposed to be.

If the egr is hung open, it is a massive vacuum leak. If hung closed then you are ok.

On phone again so I'm limited on tech. LOL

 

[RyneLightning]

BEfore you start dropping coin on parts, we need to try a few more things. You need to get some electrical contact cleaner and clean the maf sensing unit. You also need to look REAL hard for any vacuum leaks. You can do a search on the corral.net on how to do them.

Both banks showing lean is serious business. Disconnect the battery for thirty and then set that FP where it is supposed to be.

If the egr is hung open, it is a massive vacuum leak. If hung closed then you are ok.

On phone again so I'm limited on tech. LOL

The EGR is capped, it has like a dip-seal looking plug on it, but a vacuum leak was one of my initial thoughts. I'll be sure to look for one, I have a couple of hours in the mid-day tomorrow, so I'll get in there deep.

But where should I set the FP at? (like what psi)
And also can I set it before I disconnect the battery?

 

[buddha93]

38-40psi with vacuum. You can set before or after.

The battery disconnect is for the Keep Alive Memory which store adaptive strategies.......it learns stuff.

 

[93Cobra#2771]

As buddha said. And why do you want the adaptive reset? Because the adaptive learning process will learn it's way around any tinkering with fuel pressure. EEC will only open the injector as long as it needs to give ample fuel.

And get that electrical contact cleaner and spray those sensing elements in the MAF really well. The wires in the housing should be bright and shiny. If they aren't, keep cleaning. They can REALLY affect the readings from the MAF.

 

[RyneLightning]

As buddha said. And why do you want the adaptive reset? Because the adaptive learning process will learn it's way around any tinkering with fuel pressure. EEC will only open the injector as long as it needs to give ample fuel.

And get that electrical contact cleaner and spray those sensing elements in the MAF really well. The wires in the housing should be bright and shiny. If they aren't, keep cleaning. They can REALLY affect the readings from the MAF.

Just to get this clear.......
The actual connector...correct? I cleaned it out real good and twisted the whole housing towards the fender and the car starting idling very well. I forgot to put the little rubber piece back on the inside of the connector, so I cut the car off, and put the rubber piece back in, and it was running like crap again. I don't understand how I can get it to run just fine, and then it won't. It doesn't make sense to me.

Do i need to clean the sampling tube?


I'm really close to just taking it to someone and letting them have a go with it.......

 

[buddha93]

Too bad your not closer, I'd do it for free. If it is the MAF, I'd have you lined out in 20 minutes, tops. I guess you don't have a Fox guys in your area?

Richard is referring to element in the meter.......kinda like a light bulb filiment.

If the idle changed with the rotation of the MAF, I'd keep playing with that. I'll have to take a look at my buddies car and see which way we clocked that thing........they all tend to like the same orientation, more or less. I'll try and swing by there tonight to compare notes.

 

[93Cobra#2771]

Yes, I was referring to the element in the sampling tube. They often get contaminated, especially if a K&N was used and overoiled during cleaning.

Absolutely keep playing with the MAF orientation. Idea is to find a good average orientation for it. And remember, when you tweak the position, drive 20-30 miles with several start and stop cycles. Don't give up on it after a couple of minutes.

Also, your idle speed might be set a little low. Sometimes bumping that idle speed up 50 or so rpm is all it takes to compensate for things.

 

[carrew]

30's are overkill for that application. 24's, possibly 19's would suffice. I would pull that maf and go throw on a stock maf and install 19 pound injectors.

 

[RyneLightning]

Alright thanks guys, I'll definetly look in to it. I was running really short on time today and ended up just leaving it at the house. But yeah playing with the meter itself helped alot, now I just need to get it set just right, and i'll get in that sampling tube and clean it out, as far as the injectors go, I'm going to stick with the 30's, I didn't put them in, and I think they were put it for a reason haha, I'm not really sure what for, but I also don't have the money to be doing all of that........I'm on a real tight budget.

 

[buddha93]

It's a lot of information to take in, and you're frustrated with the car, so it's easy to get discouraged and say the hell with it.

To Richards point, up the idle RPM with the screw on the throttle body. If you go back a few posts to the link I provided gives the details. When I'm working with a surging idle like that, I jack up the idle RPM to around 1200. It keeps it from going up and down while you make clocking adjustments. Once you think you got the MAF in a sweet spot, then you can begin to bring the idle down to around 850 RPM and hopefully she'll hold. And put the FP around 38-40 psi. It's a trial and error thing.

 

[RyneLightning]

ALSO!
I'm not sure if this makes a difference, but I left it out in the mods list, it has a Trickflow stage 1 cam.

 

[buddha93]

The cam is no biggie.

 

[93Cobra#2771]

x2 - and an even better reason to up the idle rpm. My car has a Steeda #18 grind (280/286 - .512/.512) and isn't the friendliest cam at stock idle speed. I upped my idle (with Tweecer RT) to 720 rpm and it made all the difference in the world. A slightly elevated idle will mask a LOT of annoying tendencies that a modded 5.0 has.

 

[RyneLightning]

UPDATE!!
Ok I was just tinkering around with the Timing, and idle throttle, and FP, and got it where it would idle perfect.....Took it out and every once in a while it will surge, but then I can catch it and it will level out, but it is running really well other then that.... Have I stumbled onto something?

 

[93Cobra#2771]

Yes, you have. Now drive it as is for a while and see how it behaves for a while. Sometimes adaptive will help stabilize things further, sometimes it will make it worse. In the future, I recommend tweaking only one thing at a time. FYI, increasing timing will raise idl speed, and vice versa.