O2 extensions and issues

zporta · Apr 6, 2017

Hey guys, it's been a while.

Had LT's and a new clutch installed this past fall, wanted to install everything myself but came to the realization I have zero free time anymore.

So everything felt great and drove fine on the way home, I took it out a week later and threw 2 codes. Lean banks 1&2. Lund told me to remove o2 extensions, I tried but for the life of me can get them within 8" on each side.

I also plan on replacing both front o2 sensors per Vans advice, but does anyone who has done this have any advice of getting any slack in the wiring harness? I've got the clips of the sids of the trans and can get my arms up the side of the trans. Where the harness splits is the furthes I can rear. I can wiggle the from side to side but can't get and downward movement on the harness.

Any info would help, maybe I need a weak friend with thin forearms

Catmonkey · Apr 6, 2017

I had to go underneath the transmission. The harness that went over the top of the transmission to the driver's side was pinned and I had to break it loose and route the harness from the bottom. It's best to do that, plug in your O2 sensors and see how to best zip tie the harness to the tabs in the side of the transmission. I reused the plastic tabs and used electrical tape to mount them on the rerouted harness.

Jon82387 · Apr 6, 2017

Some experience i had with 02 extensions.... i had ordered about the cheapest set i could find from american muscle. They looked good seemed well built.... but i started getting a code for o2 sensor heater malfunction.

This is on my 2000 lightning...... so i finally figured what the hell ill try a different set..... ordered a set from LMR maybe 10$ more.... compared the 2 and the american muscle set the pins were small compared to the LMR set.

Installed new LMR extensions and issues went away.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

zporta · Apr 7, 2017

Jon82387 said:
Some experience i had with 02 extensions.... i had ordered about the cheapest set i could find from american muscle. They looked good seemed well built.... but i started getting a code for o2 sensor heater malfunction.

This is on my 2000 lightning...... so i finally figured what the hell ill try a different set..... ordered a set from LMR maybe 10$ more.... compared the 2 and the american muscle set the pins were small compared to the LMR set.

Installed new LMR extensions and issues went away.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

It currently has the extensions supplied by SW that comes with their header kit. I would like to do away with them all together.

Everyone talks about pulling the harness loose from the clip on the top of the trans, I would like to know exactly where that is. I can't see/feel it for the life of me

50stangpower · Apr 7, 2017

Im not actually sure how to get it but when mine were installed the shop did NOT use extensions and they reach fine. who did the clutch and headers for you? I had the same exact thing done so it would be cool to compare prices if you dont mind?

zporta · Apr 7, 2017

So I'm convinced it's not possible on an 07 to get the front o2's to reach. I took my blower off to have better access behind the engine and firewall and found the wire that drops down

Here:

There are no clips attached b/w here and the drop down harnesses.

I tired moving the harness to the passenger side, that made it worse. I'm stumped.

And now I find out my KB is leaking blower oil. I hope it's just the lower drain plug

Willie · Apr 7, 2017

Do you guys know WHY extensions sometimes cause this issue? .... I believe the answer is this >> The O2 voltage swings back and forth repeatedly, from lean to rich to lean... on and on. If the engine is running lean or rich, the sensor will not "swing" within specs (a specific time interval). And when this occurs, the PCM sets the lean or rich code. Here's the scoop >> The sensor voltage range is zero to one volt..! Very little voltage so any "error" in the wiring can cause a false reading. Adding an extension magnifies the potential for error, through an additional connector and quite possibly from having additional wire. So is there a solution if you have to add extensions? I believe I have found one. It is called Stabilant 22. It is a liquid product that enhances electrical contact connectivity. Whenever I disconnect a connector, I add a drop to every contact (pin) before re-plugging it.

In addition, when I disconnect any of the PCM connectors, I add a drop to EVERY pin before re-connecting as some of these circuits are also very low voltage.

The drawback to Stabilant 22 is the expense. It is super high priced. I paid about $90 for a 15mL bottle. I think you will need to decide for yourself if not using this is worth all the headaches. For me, I sucked it up, tried it, and have had no related electrical issues since. And I believe this tiny bottle is a lifetime supply.

Sirhc7897 · Apr 7, 2017

It will reach. If you follow the wiring to the top of the trans you will feel where it is held in with a little push plug. Pop that plug out and you can rotate the whole harness to under the trans vs over.

You will have ample length to make the connections without extensions then.

zporta · Apr 7, 2017

Sirhc7897 said:
It will reach. If you follow the wiring to the top of the trans you will feel where it is held in with a little push plug. Pop that plug out and you can rotate the whole harness to under the trans vs over.

You will have ample length to make the connections without extensions then.

I had my hands on each side of the trans following the harness up to where in turns into one loomed wire. I don't think it is clipped to the trans. When I tug on the harness the wire shown in my picture above moves.

SCGallo2 · Apr 7, 2017

Z, remove your battery and battery tray and you will be able to see the clip attached to the top of the trans from the passenger side.

zporta · Apr 7, 2017

SCGallo2 said:
Z, remove your battery and battery tray and you will be able to see the clip attached to the top of the trans from the passenger side.

I'll give that a shot, the battery is out but not the tray

zporta · Apr 8, 2017

SCGallo2 said:
Z, remove your battery and battery tray and you will be able to see the clip attached to the top of the trans from the passenger side.

I found the clip, and it's not connected. So I see no way possible to get this to connect. I'm 8" short on each side.

I tried pulling the whole harness to the passenger and driver sides. But can't get the front o2 connectors more the 1/2 way down the side of the bell housing

SCGallo2 · Apr 8, 2017

I only knew where the clip was and how to get to it. I am still on stock manifolds and cats, so I have no experience with getting more slack for the front sensors. Someone else will have to chime in...

zporta · Apr 8, 2017

I might be going with the special Stabilant 22 and extensions. Not sure what else to do. The replacement o2's I got are about 2" longer as well and still not close

zporta · Apr 9, 2017

Willie said:
Do you guys know WHY extensions sometimes cause this issue? .... I believe the answer is this >> The O2 voltage swings back and forth repeatedly, from lean to rich to lean... on and on. If the engine is running lean or rich, the sensor will not "swing" within specs (a specific time interval). And when this occurs, the PCM sets the lean or rich code. Here's the scoop >> The sensor voltage range is zero to one volt..! Very little voltage so any "error" in the wiring can cause a false reading. Adding an extension magnifies the potential for error, through an additional connector and quite possibly from having additional wire. So is there a solution if you have to add extensions? I believe I have found one. It is called Stabilant 22. It is a liquid product that enhances electrical contact connectivity. Whenever I disconnect a connector, I add a drop to every contact (pin) before re-plugging it.

In addition, when I disconnect any of the PCM connectors, I add a drop to EVERY pin before re-connecting as some of these circuits are also very low voltage.

The drawback to Stabilant 22 is the expense. It is super high priced. I paid about $90 for a 15mL bottle. I think you will need to decide for yourself if not using this is worth all the headaches. For me, I sucked it up, tried it, and have had no related electrical issues since. And I believe this tiny bottle is a lifetime supply.

Do you use the Stabilant 22 full strength? Or dilute it to 22a?

Willie · Apr 9, 2017

Stabilant 22A full strength. Sorry I missed that in my first post. One drop per contact

slowbra1 · Apr 10, 2017

You can use the Raptor O2s I use them with no issues

RedVenom48 · Apr 10, 2017

You guys need to check the ohm resistance of the harness extensions. You should have no more than .1 ohms of resistance. A simple digital multimeter will quickly be able to measure this. ALL wires should be .1 to ZERO ohms.

Check that and and make sure the pins on the extenders match the pins on the AF sensor

99VERT · Apr 17, 2017

I just installed a set of Kooks 1-7/8 long tubes and X-pipe on mine and wrestled with the connectors for a while! I was on my back under the car (jack Stands) and free'd up the connectors from the transmission and it took literally 45 minutes of wrestling with it to get them close. I pulled the harness down and thought about running it under the trans but managed to get the harness to slide past what I think was the clutch line on the upper left side of the bell housing. They did not look like they would even come close to reaching but they did. Mine is a 2013 so not sure if they are a different harness.

Sirhc7897 · Apr 17, 2017

I rotated mine under the transmission. Once rotated under there was plenty of room. I was never going to have enough length to make it reach if I left it on top of the housing.

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O2 extensions and issues

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