Big power build. Guess what it will make.

From what I've been told the factory MLS head gaskets become the weak link at high boost levels. At 34-36 psi of boost the engine should be built with custom copper head gaskets. Not many are wiling to do this because copper head gaskets require the cylinder head studs to be re-torqued after the initial start up and heat cycle. Unfortunately these engines with studs in the Mustang require that you drop the engine to be able to do that.

Hopefully it is only a head gasket failure

After this I should be pretty good at dropping the engine lol. I'm hoping it's just a head gasket. I don't think it was hurt from the pull it made 34psi because I changed the oil the day I took it to be dyno'd and the oil was clean as could be. While it's out I'm getting the intercooler mod done to open it up for 1" fittings to help IAT's. The cams had a decent lope but I kinda wanted something with a meaner sound so I might change the cams while it's out also. I wish I got to make a pull to 7500-8000 to see what kind of power it made up there to help me decide on cams...

I don't know what damper you're using. You may want to consider upgrading the crankshaft hub for the damper. With the bigger blowers the damper hubs have been known to break. Fischer Motorsports makes a upgraded hub for the ATI dampers, BES Racing Engines has one also. BES's requires the front cover to be modified to accept a larger seal. Turning the RPM you want with that big of a SC is going to put a lot of strain on the hub since you now have the upgraded crankshaft that won't give up first. You moved the weak link from the crank to it know being the damper hub.

Innovators west. The only time I planned to turn that rpm would be in the 1/2 mile races. The engine is almost out. I let it drain out over night into a bucket and got almost 4 gallons of oil/water mix.

Sounds like you lifted a head or dropped a sleeve. O ringing the heads while they're off isn't a bad idea if all the sleeves are still at the deck. I had my sleeves step decked so they are proud of the deck by a couple thou so it seals up good.

Cometic makes a special gasket for MID sleeves modulars, not sure if you have MID sleeves or dry sleeves but it may be worth looking into seeing if they have a gasket for your application.

While motor is out, change your cams to turbo cams and ditch that blower before you go round 3. I've already been down this road twice with that blower. I'm only trying to save your sanity! If you are still hell bent on keeping that setup, ditch that innovators west balancer- garbage. Get a ATI


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I wanted to go turbo before I did this blower and I'm really thinking hard about it now. The sleeves are the Darton Flanged sleeves so I'm really hoping it just lifted a head.

Turbo will be a lot friendlier to parts for making the big power you're looking for, and IMO is a lot more fun

genesmob said:

Wow. Thats hot! I plan on doing a 15pct lower/3" upper on my 3.4 whipple. So far i have a 3.75 upper/15pct and at 17-18psi i havent seen over 112deg with my HE setup on a 3rd gear pull. I bet its gonna really climb.

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I had it on the dyno last week at 25psi on a 3rd gear pull (4l80e automatic) I only saw a max of only 96 degrees Iat2 on a 73 degree day. I ran IC fans continuously between pulls.

rotor_powerd said:

Turbo will be a lot friendlier to parts for making the big power you're looking for, and IMO is a lot more fun

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I so want to go twin turbo, but the amount of money to fabricate a custom kit is keeping me from doing so. Maybe next year.

It is expensive. The Hellion kit is very compromised but it does make good power for what it is - a bolt on kit wth no cutting that works. I sent my Hellion setup down the road and am going to a single setup starting with CG Fab forward facing headers.

Who won the gift card?