Turbo Woes

Update: I replaced the MAP with a new sensor and nothing has changed. Ever since the above mentioned 12PSI pull the car now idles rough on start with the A/F gauge pegged lean. The throttle is extra responsive (as if it has higher compression) and the A/F drops richer when I burp the throttle but quickly returns to pegged lean.

I replacing the MAP sensor didn't change anything so I put the stock one back on and ran a datalog. My Downstream ACT was reading correctly however the ACT2 was reading over 4,000. Being as I just chose that parameter for no particular reason, I have no idea what that reading is tied to. Anyone have any ideas?

Since I'm pretty certain my MAP is running correctly does anyone have any other ideas? I'm still throwing PO113 and P1115 codes.

Edit: added a photo of the datalog for reference.

My buddy had the same issue and chased it for over a year. Was the alternator the whole time. As soon as the car got hot, it wouldn't run.

How did you 'clear' the alternator being the issue?

badcobra said:

My buddy had the same issue and chased it for over a year. Was the alternator the whole time. As soon as the car got hot, it wouldn't run.
How did you 'clear' the alternator being the issue?

Click to expand...

I took it off and went to Advanced Auto and had it bench tested.

lilsilverponey said:

I took it off and went to Advanced Auto and had it bench tested.

Click to expand...

The problem is they can't simulate the heat from the engine bay though. Swap the alternator and your problem will be resolved.

badcobra said:

The problem is they can't simulate the heat from the engine bay though. Swap the alternator and your problem will be resolved.

Click to expand...

This is extremely intriguing, you think that's the bases for all my problems (Codes, lean/rough idle)? At this point I think it's worth the gamble to try it.

Thanks for your input, it is VERY appreciated.

I do think it is. My buddy replaced every sensor, even the PCM and the problem persisted. Then we put a Holley EFI in it and the problem was still present. Finally we put a new alternator in and bam, problem solved. Give it a shot and let me know.

I went over a re read this whole thread again. It sounds like you have a bunch of issues.

How are you determining you have a MAP sensor problem?

The codes you are setting are for IAT1 and Coolant temp sensor.

Have you messed with the IAT and coolant temp sensor wiring at all? Extended wiring etc?

It almost sounds like you have a massive vacuum leak somewhere after reading your original post.

Can you attach a datalog for us to look at?

Juiced46 said:

I went over a re read this whole thread again. It sounds like you have a bunch of issues.

How are you determining you have a MAP sensor problem?

The codes you are setting are for IAT1 and Coolant temp sensor.

Have you messed with the IAT and coolant temp sensor wiring at all? Extended wiring etc?

It almost sounds like you have a massive vacuum leak somewhere after reading your original post.

Can you attach a datalog for us to look at?

Click to expand...

Thank you for reading through the whole thread again and providing input, much appreciated.

1. I believed the MAP sensor was bad because of the subtle (before the 12PSI pull) rough idle and missing throughout the RPM range. Additionally, while researching the codes it somehow (it's been a while since I researched it) led me to believe that they could be tied to the MAP.

2. I have not messed with the IAT or coolant temp sensor, when researching I couldn't find enough information to even track those sensors down. The only wiring I touched was extending the IAC wires which I didn't cut or anything, just pulled them out of the loom and re secured/wrapped them.

3. I thought the same but the boost gauge and controller are both showing around 19psi of vacuum on idle.

4. Absolutely, I can datalog this weekend and post it. What parameters would you like me to choose?

Even though you are showing 19 inchs of vac on the gauge, you can still have a vacuum leak.

Lets go back to the beginning of this whole project.

I am assuming the car was running fine, then you swapped to a turbo kit correct?

What kit?

What Intake?

What else was changed during this project? Include all fuel, MAF etc parts so we can get an idea of what is happening.

What wiring was modified/extended?

What tune is in the car? Who tuned it? Mail order, dyno tune etc?

For logging start with some parameters like this picture and go from there

Juiced,

Yes, car was running perfect before I started the swap.

Bought the kit off a member here. Supposed to have a Hellion cold side and a custom hot side. I also traded the timing chain cover, pulleys, alternator, necessary cooling lines, UPR K member, coil overs, 01 cobra upper and lower intake, and I swapped battery harnesses since his was already wired for the 01 alternator, 80lb injectors (basically everything needed to install the kit, all parts were on an 03 cobra). Kit came with a 76mm precision turbo (from hellion), Tial Waste gate, hellion BOV, diablo mafia blow through MAF.

Now that we covered what all was installed originally lets move on to things I added or replaced during the installation process.
- upgraded to lethal budget return w/ walboro 465's
- Had to modify the up pipe (hotside) just to get it to bolt on. Kit hardly fits.
- Through lots of help from Rare Fab and Palm Beach Dyno, we diagnosed that:
1. Turbo was shot, sent it off to get a rebuild and was told it's a total loss. Bought a new BW S369.
2. Diablo MAF was bad, replaced with SCT 5000
3. BOV and Wastegate were both bad, replaced with new Tail units.
- Only wiring that was changed was battery wiring harness (which I'm worried about given the history of all the bad parts I received), and I extended the IAC wiring which only involved pulling the wire out from the loom, no cutting of wires required.
-Ken at Palm Beach Dyno is tuning the car. He has gone above and beyond trying to help me figure this thing out.

I will datalog this week with those parameters.

Thanks!

You are in good hands with Ken.

Definetely get a datalog.

It really sounds like a vacuum leak. Find a way to block off either the cold side piping or the TB. Spray soapy water around the intake area, vac lines etc. Pressurize it with compressed air and looks for bubbles.

Where in the intake did you mount your IAT2/MAP sensor? If you mounted it int he upper intake lid, the o rings do not match up with the intake unless you space it out. That can cause a vacuum leak if you do not seal it properly.

The IAT2/MAP is mounted on the upper intake right by the IAC sensor. The hole was already drilled. I'm thinking there could definitely be a vacuum leak there as the mounting location doesn't look like the map sensor is sitting as flush as I would like (was already drilled when I got it).

I would start checking for vac leaks. Any leak after the maf will cause issues.

I think this was my old car.

Want to buy it back? Haha

lilsilverponey said:

Want to buy it back? Haha

Click to expand...

If it was just ported blower still with the solid 8.8 I might be

joemayo said:

If it was just ported blower still with the solid 8.8 I might be

Click to expand...

With all the headaches I'm sure it's cheap.

gt347mustang said:

With all the headaches I'm sure it's cheap.

Click to expand...

If it is my car I owned it from 05-09. I sold it for cheap ha.

It's been a great car the whole time I've owned it (5+ years). Once these few small gremlins are figured out it will be great again. Should have never touched it, I admitted that a year ago. Very expensive learning experience.

Any updates? Did you do any logs or check for vacuum leaks?