Should I buy a GT500, GTR, Or z06 c6? Well I tried them all out... Here are my thoughts...

RBB

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nice score! first thing I wud do is get that car tuned again before u keep smashing the pedal to put that warm and fuzzy look on ur face!:rolleyes: that cud be a costly adventure.....

car aint stock! stock cars can be beat on right off the lot. I wud not ASSume anything. especially since u didn't get it from the guy who built it!

modified cars have modified problems. I wud hate to see u hit high boost and somthn come apart due to a lean condition or somthn else unknown to you.
I'd second this unless you know who tuned it. Definitely want someone reputable....Lund, VMP, JDM.
 

CobraBob

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I loved reading your story. Great analysis of the Z06, GTR and GT-500. And congratulations on deciding to go with a GT-500 and then finding the perfect one for you. You got a good one there. The great story gets even better. You even found the previous owner.

Enjoy it!
 

RedVenom48

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When its time for an upgraded cold air, definitely go with PMAS 120mm. Also, consider bias ply drag tires over radials. I just had to repalce my 3rd axle due to launching off radials.... its not a cheap fix do keep doing, lemme tell you.
 

tones_RS3

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HA HAAAAA
Very nice man. If I had to "guess", I would say you are at about 680/700HP with that much boost. Just a guess though.
I'm pretty sure with the NGuage you can put them in the pillar pod.
 

RedVenom48

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Lund is probably my top recommended tuner for these cars. JDM Engineering and VMP are good choices also, but Lund just knows how to get the most from these cars and give you great street drivability as well. Not sure on an A- Pillar gauge mount. He also offers a remote dyno tune service for a fee. But its just like they are there tuning the car.

1000RWP on pump might not be doable unless your running E85. That blower is capable of it though.

Return style fuel system (Lethal Performance or Fore) with at least 1200hp rating, Injector Dynamics 1050X injectors (might even need ID 1300s to be honest), PMAS 149mm (contact 1320 Junkie Performance) would all be needed to support that goal. 72mm dual blade TB would probably work, though if you want all out performance, a Whipple mono blade would be the next step up.

If youre not racing at a drag strip, or dig racing on the street, the factory 31 spline axles should be ok. Dig racing (from a stop) is much much harder on driveline components than roll racing. Tires will be the key here. A low profile Hoosier or Mickey Thompson DOT Drag radial would be a great choice.

If you WERE going to splurge on your rear axle, Strange 35 spline axles (STREET axles, not their pro race set) with Ford 9" axle ends installed on your 8.8 housing will be what you want. Strange 35 spline Strack diff is the only 35 spline 8.8 differential available. Only other option is a spool. A 33 spline could work, but if youre investing in your rear end, go big. Your HP and Torque will thank you. You could also say F it and get a complete Strange S197 9" rear end set up for it with 35 spline axles.

C-clip eliminators work great but they are prone to leaking. Ford 9" axle set up gets rid of the c-clips AND offers a leak free, durable axle upgrade. A VERY competent racing axle shop will be needed to make the install happen as the 9' ends need to be welded in to you 8.8 housing. Strange sells everything you need to make it drop in and work with your ABS and factory rear brakes.

If you dont have a dual fan heat exchanger for your intercooler system, you need to get one. The VMP unit is exceptional. Id also recommend upgrading the Intercooler pump. The 13-14 pump is a great upgrade, but Lethla Performance sells a 55 GPM pump... compared to the 13-14 and its.. well... out of this world!
Kenne Bell sells an upgraded Intercooler unit too if you want to get real crazy.

The shortblock is probably good right up to 800-850rwhp. You limiter will be the connecting rods. Many will recommend Manely rods, but it you want THE best, look into Oliver Rods. May as well upgrade the pistons while youre there.

Billet Oil pump gears, Billet crank sprocket, secondary cam gears and a passenger side secondary tensioner should also be considered essential if you build the short block. Since you have the iron block, you dont need to worry about your primary tensioner posts as they are pressed in 8mm studs.

CF driveshaft would work well for you. I PERSONALLY prefer aluminum, but a CF shaft would serve you well. Not sure if you need a loop with CF, cause when a CF shaft lets go, it shatters and offers no resistance. If going aluminum you NEED a DS loop.

These are just my opinions, but I enjoy researching upgrades I cant afford almost as much as I love driving my Shelby. lol
 

RBB

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Thanks guys!

Alright so how much rwhp do you think the car is putting down? Seems like others with similar mods are right around or over 700?
Every single person who gets a chance to try and initiate a conversation with me wants to know "how many horses brah"
"is it replica" etc...I am not one to want to talk to strangers at a gas station about my car... They are usually always awkward. I figured this would be the least attention getting one of the 3 cars i was deciding on. But they have a good point... How many horses?
It has a 3.25 upper and cracks the 15 bar gauge, I am guessing 16-18lbs... I didn't push it after I passed 15.

I live in Western Washington and am having a hard time finding someone experienced with modular engines
and can tune them like a professional and have a dyno. Does anybody know of someone reputable? It looks like I am going to be learning livewire and datalogging. This is my first modular ford engine but I am pretty experienced with automobiles so I should be able to do the work myself if need be.

I haven't had time to crawl under the car and see what struts/springs or coilovers, and sways its on, I do know it has them and they are adjustable
the sways where red and blue and it had metco billet aluminum control arms. Can't see anything else until its on a lift.

I am trying to order the N gauge with a lund tune. Is this the best option for our cars? Also does the n gauge fit in a pillar pod instead of the vent or window suction mount?

I haven't put more than 150 miles on the gt500 since I bought it and 100 or so was from the drive back. It's not my daily. I know how important a set of gauges and proper tune are for it. I am patiently waiting for it to get setup than the beast is ready for what I am about to do with it.

I want 4:10 gears for brutal acceleration for roll racing, this means a lot of stress on the axle and driveline especially with drag radials on it. While I am in there I might as well upgrade the axle so what would be the top of the line shafts, thirdmember etc... Should I do a carbon fiber driveline with a loop?


future bolt on upgrades over the fall/winter...72mm l&m throttle body, larger injectors, change the 3.25 upper to something smaller that can make more than 16-18psi and a couple other bits and pieces...Would you guys see any problems running this setup with stock internals? Should I go all out and build the internals? Try and crack 1000rwhp on pump fuel? Why? Because race car... haha
I'd say your HP guess is pretty accurate and Lund puts out quality tunes, no worries there.

Strange makes a number of good axle upgrades. You can stick with the stock diff and a 31 spline upgrade or go all the way up to a 35 spline S trac depending on your needs. You should upgrade to an aluminum or CF driveshaft at your power level if you're planning on racing with sticky tires. Sounds like you might already have a few rear suspension upgrades, so get under the car and check it out. All the BMR stuff is top notch. Panhard, LCAs, relo brackets and UCA. Stick with heim joints or spherical bearings if you're going to be doing a lot of racing.

I would avoid going over 18 psi on pump gas, just not worth the risk. If you really want to up the boost go with a return style fuel system and run E85 full time. At that point you're looking at building the engine, as the stock rods are at their limit. It's a slippery slope man....
 
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RBB

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You guys are bad ass thanks for taking the time to type that out I respect that. It was very valuable information and will be used.

Can we run multiple tunes say a 92 octane tune and an e85? I assume the fuel can't be mixed in one tank so what if we ran a multiple tank setup? Has it been done? The reason I ask is because I only have one station that offers e85 and it's 20 miles away... So it's not worth it. I can't even get 93 octane only 92 which is another reason I am not driving it until it's dialed in. Another thing that is going to go is the stock tank unless I can use it as a secondary and fill it with e85, its getting a fuel cell that's another benefit to the gt500 is the trunk space, it's perfect for a fuel cell and putting a put more weight over the rear axle. Looking forward to building this up and being a part of the forum. I might even get a youtube channel going. I don't know why I haven't done any of this years ago I have had so many awesome vehicles over the past 14 years. Hard to do all of it when you work 60 hours a week. Thanks guys.
Never seen a dual tank setup and its not really necessary. You can get multiple tunes to run E85, pump, race gas etc. It's not big deal to switch over. Just run your tank dry, fill up with whatever you want and load the appropriate tune.

Your tuner can also give you a drain tune if you'd like to drive to the track, drain the tank and fill up with race gas. I just load the drain tune, hook a spare fuel filter with a hose running to a gas can up to the quick connect at the rail, and key on. The fuel tank is drained quickly, makes it super easy to swap fuels and there's no mixing....the tank is totally drained.

Also, good move going with the nGauge if you plan on swapping tunes frequently. It flashes pretty quick compared to the other options out there.
 

RedVenom48

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Like RBB said, dual tanks not necessary. Honestly, I wouldnt even worry about a fuel cell. Factory tank will work just fine, especially with a return style setup for E85. Most return setups are offered with a billet fuel pump hat as part of the kit that just drop in.

While 93 is considered optimal for a gas only fuel, 92 will be good for you. Even 1 full R+M/2 point is going to be better than 91. As for E85, since you dont have any local stations with it on the pump, I know A LOT of guys buy 55 gallon drums of E98 and cut it themselves at home. This is particularly handy if your racing in your area or need to fill up for a drive to where your racing at. The trick to keeping ethanol based fuel at home is making sure its SEALED.

One thing to keep in mind: It may be optimal to have the car flashed back to stock tune at a dealer and THEN loading the Lund tune. The base tune is still what the custom tune is built off of. When you get your Nguage, it probably works like an SCT X4 where it will try and save the base file (stock tune). My experience is with the X4 so take my advice with a grain of salt. When you order your Ngauge, email Lund and explain the state of the tune with them and ask if they want the base tune put in. I didnt see if you had gotten the old tuner with your car. You might be perfectly fine just flashing in the new basefile and datalogging.

And no worries man, I and I know most of us here are happy to help. Its a pretty special thing to be in the SVT/Shelby club, as they really are special cars. This site has a TON of knowledgeable owners and the speed shops and some tuners jump in as well. Hell, when I joined here I only had a near bone stock 2014 Mustang GT. I eventually found my way to my sweet Scarlett and the guys and gals here helped me get pointed in the right direction.
 

Mbiro594

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+1 for Ngauge and Lund Racing. Data logging is a breeze and Lund is amazing at what he does.

I mounted mine in the AC vent without a pod. I plan on getting a pod soon but I rarely use the AC anyways.

Plan on getting this angled mount as it is impossible to read bc of glare as it is now:

e900a64e5a1fa4e68e863684ac6f125f.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

fulanititoo8198

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Nice car that has to be nerving to buy a used modded car without knowing what mods, tune, etc. Good thing you found the previous owner.
 

gimmie11s

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I guess the good news is if the motor pops, an FRPP forged short block is under $4k.

Less than the cost of the Whipple upgrade, so OP might have done himself well.

Enjoy!
 

StrayBullitt

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Venomous.. I can't wait to see what this thing puts down, I'm just gonna put in request for dyno vid right now ;)

Btw I was joking, I didn't drive your car :D and if I did I would not have whipped on it anyway.. however, the salesman I was talking to did... and he was like, brother if you come down and drive this car.. you will buy it, I guarantee you. LOL!. Somehow, I don't think this was simply a salesman cliché, .. in this case.
 

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