After 26 spline input shaft and clutch change trans is noisy

JPIStang

Stay Classy San Diego!
Established Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2005
Messages
405
Location
San Diego East County
Yeah that's my thickest shim also. The OEM shaft is a bit out also, but I can correct it by re-installing the .041 or .042 shim. But the AMP shaft is further out of spec than OEM, which means I need .047x, .048 preferably, to actually meet spec.
 

bigwave

Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
186
Location
Central Illinois
That's crazy, did you call them? I called them and spoke with Mike and he was very helpful? I'd give them a call.
PO BOX 1161
Adkins, Texas, TX 78101

iSZlEgxIssq.png

(210) 858-8557
 

JPIStang

Stay Classy San Diego!
Established Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2005
Messages
405
Location
San Diego East County
They aren't willing to exchange it or refund. Mike has been very informative, but not helpful....because he offers no solutions. If he had a shim to send me that would help.
 

bigwave

Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
186
Location
Central Illinois
Well that sucks! But, you know, if you take a few of your smaller shims to a machine shop where they use a sander to turn drilled rotors maybe they can make one thinner and keep it true?? Just a thought, that would work then you could double up, try a few machine shops and see if they can take some off a few of the ones you know you wont need, they may have a pressure, wet, sander made just for such tasks??
 

JPIStang

Stay Classy San Diego!
Established Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2005
Messages
405
Location
San Diego East County
Yep. Well my stock input shaft is fine, I'm clearly not driving in a way that stresses it very much. I ordered a 10 spline disk from McLeod and I'll sell this input shaft cheap. I may sell the 26 spline disk or just keep it in case the 10 spline does shear and forces me to buy a Tremec or D&D shaft. Maybe Liberty.

At that point I'll probably just rebuild the tranny.
 

bigwave

Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
186
Location
Central Illinois
Well, this whole situation sucks and shouldn't have happened. I'm not a complainer, usually, but with the service you've received someone needs to post a warning about purchasing AMP products. You are, at least on here, taking this WAAAAAY better than I would be. I commend you for that! And I'm having serious buyers remorse about sticking a part in my car that the manufacturer will not stand behind!! I'm thinking the $150 I saved was not worth it! I work in the retail Ag industry and we on a regular bases replace, refund, redo, etc just on a customers word and if we didn't we would not be in business very long, our competitors would eat us up quickly.
Shame on AMP, I will not EVER buy anything from them again and will discourage others, if asked! My install did not go as well as others who used the other mentioned shafts. I'm wishing I had went with the OEM from Tremec myself!
 

P49Y-CY

fomocomofo
Established Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2003
Messages
11,217
Location
southwest
sorry to hear about your guys' difficulties, bigwave. i have been following these threads and wanted to say something, but didn't want to pour salt in the wound.

i remember about 4-5 years ago there was a real bad shortage of the correct tremec part #TUFM-6132. is this still the case, or did tremec finally start making more? i remember there was talk about it.

anyway, around that time i remember seeing how much less these were being sold for (in comparison), and that immediately made me suspicious. then, i read something about these were actually originally parts designed for the GM t-56's which were then modified to fit our cars.

one thing my local tremec dealer told me is that D&D "is" tremec.

the liberty pieces look similar to the amp pieces, but neither of them look like the tremec (D&D) part.
 

bigwave

Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
186
Location
Central Illinois
Yah, I wish someone had told me, I thought I did my due diligence and could not find too much negative on the AMP part, I even called and spoke with them and they sounded pretty legit and knowledgeable, which they may be. Mine is working "fine" after reshimming and quite down some and is a nice looking piece of equipment, which means little... I suppose. In hind site, I would have for sure just bought the tremec part and I'm sure JPIStang would have as well.

And, they are readily available, for $450 bucks you can get the Tremec with all new bearings and seals for both front and rear of shaft... Live and learn. Spent top $$$ on clutch, TOB, idle bearing, TOB sleve then F-d myself on a cheap input shaft..... DUMB on my part. And not something I usually do, I'm always telling my son(s) and people I work with who better knows the correct part than the people who built it! Broke my own rule!
 
Last edited:

JPIStang

Stay Classy San Diego!
Established Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2005
Messages
405
Location
San Diego East County
I would prefer not to badmouth, which is why I only discussed issues with the part, primarily.

They make these shafts in China or Taiwan and have admitted that these shafts for other versions of the T56 have all had many fewer complaints than for our T56's.

I broke my rule of only buying American made and now I'm paying the price.

The only things I know for sure:
End play with this shaft is further out than the stock shaft. (Is it a faulty bearing pressed on? Is the groove that stops the bearing a few thousandths off? With only one car at the moment I don't have the time to fully explore what is different. I also don't know that the end play is causing the sound!)

I don't really have any recourse. I could try the PayPal satisfaction thing but I doubt that'll work.

Tremec is still making their shafts and I found them for about $400 shipped. But I'm exhausted with this (mentally and financially tired of spending $$ on this) and am just going to throw on a 10 spline clutch disk.

I'm pretty disappointed in the lack of an offer to exchange the part. Or at least a partial refund. If I were them, I'd want to check this part out to see if any manufacturing adjustments need to be made.
 

JPIStang

Stay Classy San Diego!
Established Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2005
Messages
405
Location
San Diego East County
...
anyway, around that time i remember seeing how much less these were being sold for (in comparison), and that immediately made me suspicious. ...

Me as well but I found a couple of people who had good luck and no negative reviews at all.

Of note, the AMP shaft is 8620 steel and the Tremec shaft is 9310. If I had known what Tremec used I'd have never accepted a different metallurgy.
 

JPIStang

Stay Classy San Diego!
Established Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2005
Messages
405
Location
San Diego East County
It's interesting that you needed a .032 shim to get to .0005 end play, and I would have needed a .048 shim to get .0007 end play. That indicates poor quality control to me, since my shaft end play was greater than stock and yours was less than stock.
 

bigwave

Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
186
Location
Central Illinois
If you are referring to my setup, I must have mistyped "It's interesting that you needed a .032 shim to get to .0005 end play"
No, I had a .032 in from stock and I had to go to a .042 to get the endplay acceptable. I too was getting a little worried, I think .043 was the largest I had, so I cut it close.
 

JPIStang

Stay Classy San Diego!
Established Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2005
Messages
405
Location
San Diego East County
No I got that from your first post....

"Put back together with .0038 shim way too tight-then to 36 too tight then back to stock shim .0034 shaft would turn now but zero end play, went to a .0032"
 

bigwave

Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2016
Messages
186
Location
Central Illinois
Oh, that was my first attempt, after becoming too noisy, it all came back apart 2 weeks and 200 miles later, the shaft had way too much play in it. Not sure if a piece of packing debris or ??? was in there, on the 2nd removal and reshim (and now) it's shimmed with a .042 and appears to be doing much better. I can't explain, only speculate why after the first go around we used a smaller shim .032 and now it's .042. The only good thing about taking it back apart and reshimming was I got to take a long hard look at it after 200 miles and everything still looked like new. But, still a mystery.
 

CobraBob

Authorized Vendor
Established Member
Premium Member
Single Barrel Sirs
Joined
Nov 17, 2002
Messages
105,349
Location
Cheshire, CT
That was quite a lot of work you did, Mike, but at least you now know that everything looks to be good and mind is settled. This thread will help others going forward pick the best part.

Hey, you mentioned in one of your posts that you're getting a small amount of noise being generated from the transmission and (maybe) from your shifter. You can be pretty much assured that the noise you're hearing isn't from the shifter itself. Rather, it's internal transmission noise carrying through the shifter into your cabin. I highly recommend you pick up one of my Shifter Gasket Kits for your Cobra. It is designed to filter out most or all of the noise. The base gasket will serve as a noise/vibration barrier. Works very well and offers a big bang for the buck. Go HERE for more info and/or to order. PM me if you have any questions.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top