With all due respect, this post is full of subjective opinion.
Any before and after dyno pulls showing "massive" power gains?
Can you explain how drivability was improved?
NSR Cam Choices - Best Option
- Thread starter Streetpwr281
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With all due respect, this post is full of subjective opinion.
Any before and after dyno pulls showing "massive" power gains?
Can you explain how drivability was improved?
BJ would you be a proponent of adding cams to my combo approaching 800rwhp w stock rods? Have OPG/Crank Gear/IW Balancer but otherwise stock longblock.
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I’d love to hear your before/after gains and see the Dyno charts. The Lethal Grind Bullet Cam is ~ 227/230 @ .050” .475”/.460” lift. This is roughly the duration NSR Grind that I think my needs would be suited by best. Excellent driveability, mid-range, and higher peak hp up to 6500rpm safe limit of stock rods. PM me please if you don’t want to share publicly. Thx
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Pre was bone stock, roughly ~585rwhp/600ft-lbs
Post was 690/699
Kooks LT Headers, catted H-pipe, and the Lethal Grind NSR Cams. Stock everything else, including intake, filter, etc.
Driveability was noticeably better the second I pulled out on the road. Personally, I really disliked the balance point between throttle/clutch as it was from the factory. The throttle felt like it jumped from 10% to 30%, hard to really feather it gently (only really a problem in stop & go traffic). After the cams and tune, I feel in total control of throttle- like it has much more resolution in the lower rpm spectrum. The cams moved the power up a bit and the tune smoothed out the throttle. Smoother takeoff for sure.
^^ Very nice. Thanks for the detail.
L&M NSR cams on Christine
Sorry to rain on the cam parade, but your tune did 80% of that.
To add duration your torque curve changes, pushing peak power above stock rpm limits.
Sure you can add cams and neuter it with a 6500rpm limiter, but the small stock cams in a '13-14 peak at or above 6500rpm, and you want to pull/shift just pass your peak power anyway.
Max out the mods and then do cams when you build the shortblock (rods and Pistons 10:1) on E85 and 900+rwhp.
-J
You're not raining on my parade, I agree with you. The cams reduced some of the low end torque and the tune smoothed out the throttle. Winning combination for what I wanted. Unfortunately I don't have the overlay graph from the dyno- just the final 3 runs. Initially, the low rpm/low load was a mess.
Not saying I don't know how to work the clutch- I prefer to take off as gently as possible, especially when trying to navigate around amidst Sunday drivers and football zealots on Rt123
My last Mustang had very non-streetable cams and the driveability suffered for it, despite being tuned by one of the best.
I’m pretty much resigned to keeping stock cams til it’s motor build time. Trust me it’s killing me to pass on cams as the idle/sound is intoxicating but without being able to safely rev to its potential w cams I can’t justify the $3000+ installed cost. My old age is showing cause in my 20’s I would have said F-it and big cams here we go!!!
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Im right there with you, all this cam talk has me wanting them bad. Unfortunately they will put me past the safe power limits for the motor+ fuel system. So I'll have to wait until I can do it right.
Im right there with you, all this cam talk has me wanting them bad. Unfortunately they will put me past the safe power limits for the motor+ fuel system. So I'll have to wait until I can do it right.
If you're planning on building a motor, you're doing the right thing holding off.
The upper echelon of cam choices for the 4vs sound and perform amazing. I couldn't justify them for what I wanted out of my car, but if you're committed to building a motor to handle it, why not!
I have a 12 gt500. VMP 800 hp kit. At the track spun my way to a 11.1 at 128. Same combo with jdm ss cams. Same everything and spun my way to 11.5 at 135. Yes I need tires but the cams sound cool and make some good power. I idle the car at 750 for the sound and can cruise at 1000 rpm. I have 29 tall tires 3.73 gears and can idle the car, slowly let the clutch out no gas and get rolling. I'm coming from a 347 stroker with 600 lift and 258 @.050 duration. The ss cams are very mild in comparison but my wife can drive without issue. Yes at certain rpms and drivetrain slop it may buck a bit but increase rpm or shift and its gone. These cams lowered my boost by about 3 psi. Not the crazy lobe idle sound but its there.
FYI melted a couple pistons with the 800 hp kit. New engine with cams did multiple data logs and they reviewed and said it was good to go. I wanted dyno time and they said I was wasting my time. I went anyway and super glad I did. Did one pull sent the file and they said do not run again till revised tune. Gained 80 hp and was lean on top end. Dyno every new combo for safety in my book. Hard to data log 4 gear pulls to 150+ on the street.
FYI melted a couple pistons with the 800 hp kit. New engine with cams did multiple data logs and they reviewed and said it was good to go. I wanted dyno time and they said I was wasting my time. I went anyway and super glad I did. Did one pull sent the file and they said do not run again till revised tune. Gained 80 hp and was lean on top end. Dyno every new combo for safety in my book. Hard to data log 4 gear pulls to 150+ on the street.
Just trying to evaluate these cams a little more...
Anything else of significance changed for the rebuild, other than pistons? Same compression ratio?
Your runs at the track, same track with similar density altitude?
Thanks in advance!
Depending on your fuel, no reason not to run a bit of compression with a cammed mod motor.
The JDM SS cams are very streetable to me but they are not small on the spectrum of cams discussed here. They are designed for NHRA Super Stock and they will peak 7000+ easily.
I have high quality E85 all around, and run about 10:1 with a ported Gen2R and JDM cams on my JDM 5.8
It's fun to talk cam specs here, but I've built 3 custom cammed 427Ws in addition to this 5.8 and I'd always recommend letting your engine builder make the final call.
JDM has tested multiple grinds and waits for Comps best cores, so it was an easy choice for me to go with their 5.8.
-J
Same experience here with a 10:1 5.8 and 4.10s
I would highly recommend bias ply drag tires to try and harness that power.
-J
Good to know. I've got the JDM SS and they are super fun, lots of gain and mostly drivable but often increased challenge in real world traffic... In the end, my tastes have changed a tad and in my case, 780 WHP and 700ish is unnoticed in the normal street scene.. Especially in Hawaii!
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What gear do you run?
How often do you drive the car? Because you have 100hp in octane/tuning, with my assumption you're running pump gas 91-93?
If limited street use/low miles, I'd run better fuel and push it harder.
-J
I'm running 92, have 3.73 gearing. Drive her twice a week. Lund has done miracle work and as a result, very streetable...mostly but a challenge here in this traffic.. With that said, I'll also let blame to a grabby clutch (centerforce) that adds chatter to the traffic mix. I keep it in a gear that keeps it above 2k. I'm not ditching the cams yet, but looking around. After all, gear heads never finish a project!
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I agree.
On the clutch, I never removed the assist spring with the stock clutch but once installing the Spec clutch, removing the assist spring was a HUGE benefit. Just a heads up if you haven't done that yet.
-J
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