I've been thinking about doing one. I'm sure for some it would have been a little bit of a difficult install. I have a bunch of pics and can answer some questions. Totally up to the market though
Would anyone benefit from a Sai Li Install write-up?
- Thread starter Reisjsr
- Start date
its kind of finally out there now!
https://www.lethalperformance.com/s...n-style-fuel-system-2011-2017-mustang-gt.html
pdf at the bottom
https://www.lethalperformance.com/s...n-style-fuel-system-2011-2017-mustang-gt.html
pdf at the bottom
but build pics Im sure would help others!
I personally would like to see one over and above the PDF which is a bare minimum how to.
I found the step by step and I figured it out quite quickly, I just honestly feel bad for the guy that doesn't have alot of experience. I ran into wiring issues with different colors than mentioned in the PDF and there's a thread about wiring on here that are also different colors than what I had.
I will get to work on a proper write up with pics. I also want to mention Sai is a great dude, I hit his Facebookup about the wiring on Sunday and he responded immediately so he deserves a shout.
I will get to work on a proper write up with pics. I also want to mention Sai is a great dude, I hit his Facebookup about the wiring on Sunday and he responded immediately so he deserves a shout.
plus he is great at answering questions as they pop up!
Anybody have any pictures of the hat with the adapter on it? I’m worried since I live in California and have to smog my car. How hard will it be to hook up the stock system back? The instructions say I will have to cut off the stock fitting on original line. Any recommendations? My car is a 2014 gt with a roush tvs.
A DIY with pics would be nice. I had a shop install my Sai Li kit but I was thinking possibly in the future upgrading to braided hoses and AN connectors for both the feed and return lines. A DIY with pics would make figuring out how to run everything easier.
It’s not too hard. I’m surprised there’s no info on it in more places the fuel line is just cut to accommodate a 3/8 fitting since the factory one is smaller.
Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Just make one. You don't need permission. I've done plenty write ups.
I wasn’t asking for permission. If the response was “that’s dumb, it’s too easy for a write up” I wouldn’t waste my time. I started this thread to see if a write up would benefit others. The only way to know if it would help is to ask
Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
I just did mine a few weeks ago & although somewhat easy to install I did have to look through many threads for reasurance. A good pictured write up would of helped some.
Sent from my [device_name] using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Sent from my [device_name] using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Thanks for the picture. That really cleared up my idea of how it’s attached. I went ahead and ordered a system from Rodeheavers hot rod shop that’s similar to Sai li’s kit. Shaun Perry at AED highly recommends this kit since it includes a second FPDM so that the pumps run on low speed and switch to high speed under high demand. This way nothing gets turned off in the tune and no check engine lights. It will act just like a factory system.
Yes do one.
Please do one, soon... 
I am about to pick up his system for my car.
I am about to pick up his system for my car.I just installed it on monday , any questions just ask.
Alight y'all, I've never done a write up before and I'm missing half my pictures so be gentle! So I've had this kit for a couple of months and about a thousand miles with no issues. The information on an install is extremely hard to find so I hope this helps someone out there.
1. To empty the tank so you can fill up with E85 disconnect the fuel line to the rail by squeezing the blue locking tab on both sides of the clip and pulling outward. Connect a battery charger or jump box and turn the ignition Key on. Let the fuel drain into an approved container.
2. Disconnect the damn battery!
3. The fuel hat you'll be removing is the one behind the driver's seat. To access the hat locate the two (one on each side) push to release clips for the rear seat. They can be found along the line where the seat cushion meets the body. Push the clips in and the entire rear seat will release.
4. Use a pocket screwdriver and release the connector. Push the fuel line in toward the hat and push the button on the fuel line connector and pull the line off of the hat. Using a large flat head screw driver and hammer, tap the fuel hat locking ring counter-clockwise until the ring releases. ***MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ADEQUATE VENTILATION. IF YOU DIDN'T DRAIN THE FUEL ON STEP ONE THIS IS GONNA BE MESSY SO WATCH YOUR EYEBALLS AND WEAR GLOVES!***
5. The locking ring is bigger than the actual body opening so you can spend 3 hours fighting the ring to get it past the body or you can do what I did. I used tin snips but you can use any type of cutter and carefully notch out about a 1/4" to 1/2" "V" shape in the body so you can easily remove the locking ring.
6. Have a drain pan readily available! Pull the fuel hat up and out of the tank and set it in the pan. Take the new fuel hat and carefully install it in the tank. ***PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE FUEL LEVEL SENSOR AND MAKE SURE IT IS NOT OBSTRUCTED BY THE TRANSFER FUEL LINES OR YOU WILL BE REPEATING THIS STEP!***
7. Okay so now the new fuel hat from Sai Li is in the tank. ***USE A NEW, I REPEAT, NEW!*** fuel pump O-ring or it will leak. If it doesn't right away it will at your first fill up or during the summer when it's hot. Re-install the fuel hat locking ring in reverse order (by fitting it over the hat and pounding it with the large screwdriver and hammer until it locks all the way under the locking tabs).
8. Sai Li sends a 3/8 (I believe) fuel line repair kit with his setup. This is because the dual pump hat has a bigger connection point for the fuel line than the standard GT. ***FIRST MEASURE OR YOU WILL FIGHT THE LINE FOREVER AND POSSIBLY HAVE LEAKS*** lay Sai Li's connector over the stock line and mark the lines in the same place. ***YOU WANT TO PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO WHERE THE NEW CONNECTOR IS IN RELATION TO THE HAT CONNECTION. IF YOUR TOO SHORT OR TWO LONG THE LINE WILL NOT WORK!*** Once your all lined up use a sharp cutting tool and cut the stock line where you previously marked it.
9. Sai's kit comes with a double barb fitting that's brass. I have heard of fuel leaks from this spot so I took no chances. I used a tiny bit of epoxy on both sides of the barb fitting and shoved one end in the freshly cut stock line and the other in the provided connector line. ***SOAK SAI'S LINE IN HOT WATER TO MAKE THE LINE SLIDE OVER BARB FITTING EASIER***. For added security I used two tiny clamps on both ends of the fitting where the lines meet. Install the connector on the fitting on the top of the hat. It's looks kinda sketch without a retaining clip but make sure it clips in all the way and you'll be fine.
10. I measured out exactly how much braided PTFE line to use by building the end of the line that goes into the top of the fuel hat first. Use a 90* AN fitting. Evenly peel back the braid and be careful, you probably will stab yourself with little metal pieces but still, be careful. Slide the screw on fitting over the line then slide the brass seal (ferrel or olive or whatever you have heard it called) over the line end. Keeping everything tight, screw the 90* fitting end and the over the line fitting together. Use Teflon tape and Install that 90* AN fitting on top of the Sai Li fuel hat. ***IF YOU DON'T HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH AN LINES, WATCH SOME VIDEOS BEFORE ATTEMPTING!***
Carefully route the assembled line end from under the vehicle and around the fuel tank to the top of the tank to where the fuel hat is. Have someone else hold it in place while you route the line under the driver's side along where all the other fuel and evap lines are. Remove the Driver's front fender liner and route the line up into the engine compartment. From there find where you want the regulator to be and carefully mark the location on the fuel line. ***I PULLED THE LINE BACK OUT AND REMOVED ALL PANELS AND MADE IT ALL PRETTY AND ASSEMBLED THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT SIDE OF THE LINE WITH IT OUT OF THE CAR. IT'S EASIER THIS WAY BUT YOU CAN ALSO LEAVE THE LINE IN THE ENGINE BAY AND JUST CUT AND BUILD THE LINE IN PLACE***
11. Build the engine compartment side of the fuel line. This side I believe uses the 45* connection. That said, I personally used a 90* connection because the line you just routed will be installed on the bottom port of the regulator so depending on where you mount the regulator a different angled fitting might be better suited for the location.
12. Use Teflon tape and liberally wrap the bottom port of the regulator connect the line to the bottom port. ***MOST PEOPLE MOUNT THE REGULATOR TO THE BACK SIDE OF THE STRUT TOWER FACING THE BRAKE BOOSTER. I RAN THIS SETUP AT FIRST AND IT WAS GREAT BUT WANTED TO SEE MY FUEL PRESSURE JUST BY CRACKING THE HOOD SO I REROUTED TO THE FRONT OF THE STRUT TOWER***
13. Build the fuel rail adapter by using Teflon tape and installing the 90* double side threaded fitting into the side of the adapter, tighten it down. plug the adapter into the rail until it clicks then connect the stock fuel feed line into the back of the adapter. Cut another section of line after measuring the distance from the double sided threaded AN fitting in the adapter to the regulator. Build the line with a 90* fitting on one end (for the adapter side) and a straight fitting (for the regulator side.
14. Use Teflon and connect the 90* fitting to the fuel rail on one end and the straight fitting to the side port of the regulator. ***BLOCK OFF THE UNUSED SIDE PORT OF THE REGULATOR USING THE PROVIDED PLUG FITTING***
15. Mount the regulator to your chosen location.
16. First to wire the Sai System you need to know that the 11-12 and the 13-14 models have different color wiring. I found this out the hard way. I'm sure there is some variation depending on build date too so be careful and keep that in mind.
17. The fuel hat the connector wiring needs to be modified. Cut the blue with green tracer wire and yellow with pink tracer wire close to the connector. crimp the black wire from the Sai Li harness to the blue with green tracer and crimp the yellow wire to yellow with pink tracer wire.
18. Run the Sai Li harness through the back seat opening to the trunk area. Connect the grounds to a suitable spot. Mount the relays to a spot and position them so they won't get hit with groceries when you put them in the trunk.
19. Disconnect the Fuel Pump Delivery Module connector. Connect the jumper harness from Sai Li to the FPDM, Splice the Purple wires from the harness near the relays to the PURPLE AND GREEN WIRE TRACER. I've heard some conflicts on this and the instructions say yellow and brown tracer but that just isn't correct for my car. My options were Purple and green tracer or Yellow and grey tracer. Both are bigger gauge wires. I spliced into the Purple and green and it's been just fine. Sai also said the Yellow and grey would have been alright.
20. At this point, route the red power wires from the fuses in the provided harness through under the rear seats, along the driver's rocker panel, and through the little grommet next to the brake booster in the firewall. You can route them how you want from there but I just kept it simple and zip-tied the power wires to the cowling and across to the engine compartment fuse box. Remove the battery line hold down nut (10mm) and install the wires. Re-tighten the nut.
21. Go through from the back to the front of the vehicle and make sure all of your lines are tight, relays are mounted, splices and soldering complete and harness wrapped appropriately with electrical tape, Teflon tape used at all connections, rubber fuel hat covers reinstalled etc. DO NOT RE-INSTALL THE REAR SEATS YET! you want to make sure you can see any leaks.
View attachment 1475405 View attachment 1475394 View attachment 1475400 View attachment 1475404
That about does it. The rest is self explanatory. I'm sure we all vary a bit in the way we have installed our systems so EVERYONE's input is completely welcome on what they did. My goal was to give a couple lessons learned and a basic overview of the install so that more people will try to install it themselves. All in all it's pretty fun and easy.
1. To empty the tank so you can fill up with E85 disconnect the fuel line to the rail by squeezing the blue locking tab on both sides of the clip and pulling outward. Connect a battery charger or jump box and turn the ignition Key on. Let the fuel drain into an approved container.
2. Disconnect the damn battery!
3. The fuel hat you'll be removing is the one behind the driver's seat. To access the hat locate the two (one on each side) push to release clips for the rear seat. They can be found along the line where the seat cushion meets the body. Push the clips in and the entire rear seat will release.
4. Use a pocket screwdriver and release the connector. Push the fuel line in toward the hat and push the button on the fuel line connector and pull the line off of the hat. Using a large flat head screw driver and hammer, tap the fuel hat locking ring counter-clockwise until the ring releases. ***MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ADEQUATE VENTILATION. IF YOU DIDN'T DRAIN THE FUEL ON STEP ONE THIS IS GONNA BE MESSY SO WATCH YOUR EYEBALLS AND WEAR GLOVES!***
5. The locking ring is bigger than the actual body opening so you can spend 3 hours fighting the ring to get it past the body or you can do what I did. I used tin snips but you can use any type of cutter and carefully notch out about a 1/4" to 1/2" "V" shape in the body so you can easily remove the locking ring.
6. Have a drain pan readily available! Pull the fuel hat up and out of the tank and set it in the pan. Take the new fuel hat and carefully install it in the tank. ***PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE FUEL LEVEL SENSOR AND MAKE SURE IT IS NOT OBSTRUCTED BY THE TRANSFER FUEL LINES OR YOU WILL BE REPEATING THIS STEP!***
7. Okay so now the new fuel hat from Sai Li is in the tank. ***USE A NEW, I REPEAT, NEW!*** fuel pump O-ring or it will leak. If it doesn't right away it will at your first fill up or during the summer when it's hot. Re-install the fuel hat locking ring in reverse order (by fitting it over the hat and pounding it with the large screwdriver and hammer until it locks all the way under the locking tabs).
8. Sai Li sends a 3/8 (I believe) fuel line repair kit with his setup. This is because the dual pump hat has a bigger connection point for the fuel line than the standard GT. ***FIRST MEASURE OR YOU WILL FIGHT THE LINE FOREVER AND POSSIBLY HAVE LEAKS*** lay Sai Li's connector over the stock line and mark the lines in the same place. ***YOU WANT TO PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO WHERE THE NEW CONNECTOR IS IN RELATION TO THE HAT CONNECTION. IF YOUR TOO SHORT OR TWO LONG THE LINE WILL NOT WORK!*** Once your all lined up use a sharp cutting tool and cut the stock line where you previously marked it.
9. Sai's kit comes with a double barb fitting that's brass. I have heard of fuel leaks from this spot so I took no chances. I used a tiny bit of epoxy on both sides of the barb fitting and shoved one end in the freshly cut stock line and the other in the provided connector line. ***SOAK SAI'S LINE IN HOT WATER TO MAKE THE LINE SLIDE OVER BARB FITTING EASIER***. For added security I used two tiny clamps on both ends of the fitting where the lines meet. Install the connector on the fitting on the top of the hat. It's looks kinda sketch without a retaining clip but make sure it clips in all the way and you'll be fine.
10. I measured out exactly how much braided PTFE line to use by building the end of the line that goes into the top of the fuel hat first. Use a 90* AN fitting. Evenly peel back the braid and be careful, you probably will stab yourself with little metal pieces but still, be careful. Slide the screw on fitting over the line then slide the brass seal (ferrel or olive or whatever you have heard it called) over the line end. Keeping everything tight, screw the 90* fitting end and the over the line fitting together. Use Teflon tape and Install that 90* AN fitting on top of the Sai Li fuel hat. ***IF YOU DON'T HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH AN LINES, WATCH SOME VIDEOS BEFORE ATTEMPTING!***
Carefully route the assembled line end from under the vehicle and around the fuel tank to the top of the tank to where the fuel hat is. Have someone else hold it in place while you route the line under the driver's side along where all the other fuel and evap lines are. Remove the Driver's front fender liner and route the line up into the engine compartment. From there find where you want the regulator to be and carefully mark the location on the fuel line. ***I PULLED THE LINE BACK OUT AND REMOVED ALL PANELS AND MADE IT ALL PRETTY AND ASSEMBLED THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT SIDE OF THE LINE WITH IT OUT OF THE CAR. IT'S EASIER THIS WAY BUT YOU CAN ALSO LEAVE THE LINE IN THE ENGINE BAY AND JUST CUT AND BUILD THE LINE IN PLACE***
11. Build the engine compartment side of the fuel line. This side I believe uses the 45* connection. That said, I personally used a 90* connection because the line you just routed will be installed on the bottom port of the regulator so depending on where you mount the regulator a different angled fitting might be better suited for the location.
12. Use Teflon tape and liberally wrap the bottom port of the regulator connect the line to the bottom port. ***MOST PEOPLE MOUNT THE REGULATOR TO THE BACK SIDE OF THE STRUT TOWER FACING THE BRAKE BOOSTER. I RAN THIS SETUP AT FIRST AND IT WAS GREAT BUT WANTED TO SEE MY FUEL PRESSURE JUST BY CRACKING THE HOOD SO I REROUTED TO THE FRONT OF THE STRUT TOWER***
13. Build the fuel rail adapter by using Teflon tape and installing the 90* double side threaded fitting into the side of the adapter, tighten it down. plug the adapter into the rail until it clicks then connect the stock fuel feed line into the back of the adapter. Cut another section of line after measuring the distance from the double sided threaded AN fitting in the adapter to the regulator. Build the line with a 90* fitting on one end (for the adapter side) and a straight fitting (for the regulator side.
14. Use Teflon and connect the 90* fitting to the fuel rail on one end and the straight fitting to the side port of the regulator. ***BLOCK OFF THE UNUSED SIDE PORT OF THE REGULATOR USING THE PROVIDED PLUG FITTING***
15. Mount the regulator to your chosen location.
16. First to wire the Sai System you need to know that the 11-12 and the 13-14 models have different color wiring. I found this out the hard way. I'm sure there is some variation depending on build date too so be careful and keep that in mind.
17. The fuel hat the connector wiring needs to be modified. Cut the blue with green tracer wire and yellow with pink tracer wire close to the connector. crimp the black wire from the Sai Li harness to the blue with green tracer and crimp the yellow wire to yellow with pink tracer wire.
18. Run the Sai Li harness through the back seat opening to the trunk area. Connect the grounds to a suitable spot. Mount the relays to a spot and position them so they won't get hit with groceries when you put them in the trunk.
19. Disconnect the Fuel Pump Delivery Module connector. Connect the jumper harness from Sai Li to the FPDM, Splice the Purple wires from the harness near the relays to the PURPLE AND GREEN WIRE TRACER. I've heard some conflicts on this and the instructions say yellow and brown tracer but that just isn't correct for my car. My options were Purple and green tracer or Yellow and grey tracer. Both are bigger gauge wires. I spliced into the Purple and green and it's been just fine. Sai also said the Yellow and grey would have been alright.
20. At this point, route the red power wires from the fuses in the provided harness through under the rear seats, along the driver's rocker panel, and through the little grommet next to the brake booster in the firewall. You can route them how you want from there but I just kept it simple and zip-tied the power wires to the cowling and across to the engine compartment fuse box. Remove the battery line hold down nut (10mm) and install the wires. Re-tighten the nut.
21. Go through from the back to the front of the vehicle and make sure all of your lines are tight, relays are mounted, splices and soldering complete and harness wrapped appropriately with electrical tape, Teflon tape used at all connections, rubber fuel hat covers reinstalled etc. DO NOT RE-INSTALL THE REAR SEATS YET! you want to make sure you can see any leaks.
View attachment 1475405 View attachment 1475394 View attachment 1475400 View attachment 1475404
That about does it. The rest is self explanatory. I'm sure we all vary a bit in the way we have installed our systems so EVERYONE's input is completely welcome on what they did. My goal was to give a couple lessons learned and a basic overview of the install so that more people will try to install it themselves. All in all it's pretty fun and easy.
Alight y'all, I've never done a write up before and I'm missing half my pictures so be gentle! So I've had this kit for a couple of months and about a thousand miles with no issues. The information on an install is extremely hard to find so I hope this helps someone out there.
1. To empty the tank so you can fill up with E85 disconnect the fuel line to the rail by squeezing the blue locking tab on both sides of the clip and pulling outward. Connect a battery charger or jump box and turn the ignition Key on. Let the fuel drain into an approved container.
2. Disconnect the damn battery!
3. The fuel hat you'll be removing is the one behind the driver's seat. To access the hat locate the two (one on each side) push to release clips for the rear seat. They can be found along the line where the seat cushion meets the body. Push the clips in and the entire rear seat will release.
4. Use a pocket screwdriver and release the connector. Push the fuel line in toward the hat and push the button on the fuel line connector and pull the line off of the hat. Using a large flat head screw driver and hammer, tap the fuel hat locking ring counter-clockwise until the ring releases. ***MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ADEQUATE VENTILATION. IF YOU DIDN'T DRAIN THE FUEL ON STEP ONE THIS IS GONNA BE MESSY SO WATCH YOUR EYEBALLS AND WEAR GLOVES!***
5. The locking ring is bigger than the actual body opening so you can spend 3 hours fighting the ring to get it past the body or you can do what I did. I used tin snips but you can use any type of cutter and carefully notch out about a 1/4" to 1/2" "V" shape in the body so you can easily remove the locking ring.
6. Have a drain pan readily available! Pull the fuel hat up and out of the tank and set it in the pan. Take the new fuel hat and carefully install it in the tank. ***PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE FUEL LEVEL SENSOR AND MAKE SURE IT IS NOT OBSTRUCTED BY THE TRANSFER FUEL LINES OR YOU WILL BE REPEATING THIS STEP!***
7. Okay so now the new fuel hat from Sai Li is in the tank. ***USE A NEW, I REPEAT, NEW!*** fuel pump O-ring or it will leak. If it doesn't right away it will at your first fill up or during the summer when it's hot. Re-install the fuel hat locking ring in reverse order (by fitting it over the hat and pounding it with the large screwdriver and hammer until it locks all the way under the locking tabs).
8. Sai Li sends a 3/8 (I believe) fuel line repair kit with his setup. This is because the dual pump hat has a bigger connection point for the fuel line than the standard GT. ***FIRST MEASURE OR YOU WILL FIGHT THE LINE FOREVER AND POSSIBLY HAVE LEAKS*** lay Sai Li's connector over the stock line and mark the lines in the same place. ***YOU WANT TO PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO WHERE THE NEW CONNECTOR IS IN RELATION TO THE HAT CONNECTION. IF YOUR TOO SHORT OR TWO LONG THE LINE WILL NOT WORK!*** Once your all lined up use a sharp cutting tool and cut the stock line where you previously marked it.
9. Sai's kit comes with a double barb fitting that's brass. I have heard of fuel leaks from this spot so I took no chances. I used a tiny bit of epoxy on both sides of the barb fitting and shoved one end in the freshly cut stock line and the other in the provided connector line. ***SOAK SAI'S LINE IN HOT WATER TO MAKE THE LINE SLIDE OVER BARB FITTING EASIER***. For added security I used two tiny clamps on both ends of the fitting where the lines meet. Install the connector on the fitting on the top of the hat. It's looks kinda sketch without a retaining clip but make sure it clips in all the way and you'll be fine.
10. I measured out exactly how much braided PTFE line to use by building the end of the line that goes into the top of the fuel hat first. Use a 90* AN fitting. Evenly peel back the braid and be careful, you probably will stab yourself with little metal pieces but still, be careful. Slide the screw on fitting over the line then slide the brass seal (ferrel or olive or whatever you have heard it called) over the line end. Keeping everything tight, screw the 90* fitting end and the over the line fitting together. Use Teflon tape and Install that 90* AN fitting on top of the Sai Li fuel hat. ***IF YOU DON'T HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH AN LINES, WATCH SOME VIDEOS BEFORE ATTEMPTING!***
Carefully route the assembled line end from under the vehicle and around the fuel tank to the top of the tank to where the fuel hat is. Have someone else hold it in place while you route the line under the driver's side along where all the other fuel and evap lines are. Remove the Driver's front fender liner and route the line up into the engine compartment. From there find where you want the regulator to be and carefully mark the location on the fuel line. ***I PULLED THE LINE BACK OUT AND REMOVED ALL PANELS AND MADE IT ALL PRETTY AND ASSEMBLED THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT SIDE OF THE LINE WITH IT OUT OF THE CAR. IT'S EASIER THIS WAY BUT YOU CAN ALSO LEAVE THE LINE IN THE ENGINE BAY AND JUST CUT AND BUILD THE LINE IN PLACE***
11. Build the engine compartment side of the fuel line. This side I believe uses the 45* connection. That said, I personally used a 90* connection because the line you just routed will be installed on the bottom port of the regulator so depending on where you mount the regulator a different angled fitting might be better suited for the location.
12. Use Teflon tape and liberally wrap the bottom port of the regulator connect the line to the bottom port. ***MOST PEOPLE MOUNT THE REGULATOR TO THE BACK SIDE OF THE STRUT TOWER FACING THE BRAKE BOOSTER. I RAN THIS SETUP AT FIRST AND IT WAS GREAT BUT WANTED TO SEE MY FUEL PRESSURE JUST BY CRACKING THE HOOD SO I REROUTED TO THE FRONT OF THE STRUT TOWER***
13. Build the fuel rail adapter by using Teflon tape and installing the 90* double side threaded fitting into the side of the adapter, tighten it down. plug the adapter into the rail until it clicks then connect the stock fuel feed line into the back of the adapter. Cut another section of line after measuring the distance from the double sided threaded AN fitting in the adapter to the regulator. Build the line with a 90* fitting on one end (for the adapter side) and a straight fitting (for the regulator side.
14. Use Teflon and connect the 90* fitting to the fuel rail on one end and the straight fitting to the side port of the regulator. ***BLOCK OFF THE UNUSED SIDE PORT OF THE REGULATOR USING THE PROVIDED PLUG FITTING***
15. Mount the regulator to your chosen location.
16. First to wire the Sai System you need to know that the 11-12 and the 13-14 models have different color wiring. I found this out the hard way. I'm sure there is some variation depending on build date too so be careful and keep that in mind.
17. The fuel hat the connector wiring needs to be modified. Cut the blue with green tracer wire and yellow with pink tracer wire close to the connector. crimp the black wire from the Sai Li harness to the blue with green tracer and crimp the yellow wire to yellow with pink tracer wire.
18. Run the Sai Li harness through the back seat opening to the trunk area. Connect the grounds to a suitable spot. Mount the relays to a spot and position them so they won't get hit with groceries when you put them in the trunk.
19. Disconnect the Fuel Pump Delivery Module connector. Connect the jumper harness from Sai Li to the FPDM, Splice the Purple wires from the harness near the relays to the PURPLE AND GREEN WIRE TRACER. I've heard some conflicts on this and the instructions say yellow and brown tracer but that just isn't correct for my car. My options were Purple and green tracer or Yellow and grey tracer. Both are bigger gauge wires. I spliced into the Purple and green and it's been just fine. Sai also said the Yellow and grey would have been alright.
20. At this point, route the red power wires from the fuses in the provided harness through under the rear seats, along the driver's rocker panel, and through the little grommet next to the brake booster in the firewall. You can route them how you want from there but I just kept it simple and zip-tied the power wires to the cowling and across to the engine compartment fuse box. Remove the battery line hold down nut (10mm) and install the wires. Re-tighten the nut.
21. Go through from the back to the front of the vehicle and make sure all of your lines are tight, relays are mounted, splices and soldering complete and harness wrapped appropriately with electrical tape, Teflon tape used at all connections, rubber fuel hat covers reinstalled etc. DO NOT RE-INSTALL THE REAR SEATS YET! you want to make sure you can see any leaks.
That about does it. The rest is self explanatory. I'm sure we all vary a bit in the way we have installed our systems so EVERYONE's input is completely welcome on what they did. My goal was to give a couple lessons learned and a basic overview of the install so that more people will try to install it themselves. All in all it's pretty fun and easy.
1. To empty the tank so you can fill up with E85 disconnect the fuel line to the rail by squeezing the blue locking tab on both sides of the clip and pulling outward. Connect a battery charger or jump box and turn the ignition Key on. Let the fuel drain into an approved container.
2. Disconnect the damn battery!
3. The fuel hat you'll be removing is the one behind the driver's seat. To access the hat locate the two (one on each side) push to release clips for the rear seat. They can be found along the line where the seat cushion meets the body. Push the clips in and the entire rear seat will release.
4. Use a pocket screwdriver and release the connector. Push the fuel line in toward the hat and push the button on the fuel line connector and pull the line off of the hat. Using a large flat head screw driver and hammer, tap the fuel hat locking ring counter-clockwise until the ring releases. ***MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ADEQUATE VENTILATION. IF YOU DIDN'T DRAIN THE FUEL ON STEP ONE THIS IS GONNA BE MESSY SO WATCH YOUR EYEBALLS AND WEAR GLOVES!***
5. The locking ring is bigger than the actual body opening so you can spend 3 hours fighting the ring to get it past the body or you can do what I did. I used tin snips but you can use any type of cutter and carefully notch out about a 1/4" to 1/2" "V" shape in the body so you can easily remove the locking ring.
6. Have a drain pan readily available! Pull the fuel hat up and out of the tank and set it in the pan. Take the new fuel hat and carefully install it in the tank. ***PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE FUEL LEVEL SENSOR AND MAKE SURE IT IS NOT OBSTRUCTED BY THE TRANSFER FUEL LINES OR YOU WILL BE REPEATING THIS STEP!***
7. Okay so now the new fuel hat from Sai Li is in the tank. ***USE A NEW, I REPEAT, NEW!*** fuel pump O-ring or it will leak. If it doesn't right away it will at your first fill up or during the summer when it's hot. Re-install the fuel hat locking ring in reverse order (by fitting it over the hat and pounding it with the large screwdriver and hammer until it locks all the way under the locking tabs).
8. Sai Li sends a 3/8 (I believe) fuel line repair kit with his setup. This is because the dual pump hat has a bigger connection point for the fuel line than the standard GT. ***FIRST MEASURE OR YOU WILL FIGHT THE LINE FOREVER AND POSSIBLY HAVE LEAKS*** lay Sai Li's connector over the stock line and mark the lines in the same place. ***YOU WANT TO PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO WHERE THE NEW CONNECTOR IS IN RELATION TO THE HAT CONNECTION. IF YOUR TOO SHORT OR TWO LONG THE LINE WILL NOT WORK!*** Once your all lined up use a sharp cutting tool and cut the stock line where you previously marked it.
9. Sai's kit comes with a double barb fitting that's brass. I have heard of fuel leaks from this spot so I took no chances. I used a tiny bit of epoxy on both sides of the barb fitting and shoved one end in the freshly cut stock line and the other in the provided connector line. ***SOAK SAI'S LINE IN HOT WATER TO MAKE THE LINE SLIDE OVER BARB FITTING EASIER***. For added security I used two tiny clamps on both ends of the fitting where the lines meet. Install the connector on the fitting on the top of the hat. It's looks kinda sketch without a retaining clip but make sure it clips in all the way and you'll be fine.
10. I measured out exactly how much braided PTFE line to use by building the end of the line that goes into the top of the fuel hat first. Use a 90* AN fitting. Evenly peel back the braid and be careful, you probably will stab yourself with little metal pieces but still, be careful. Slide the screw on fitting over the line then slide the brass seal (ferrel or olive or whatever you have heard it called) over the line end. Keeping everything tight, screw the 90* fitting end and the over the line fitting together. Use Teflon tape and Install that 90* AN fitting on top of the Sai Li fuel hat. ***IF YOU DON'T HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH AN LINES, WATCH SOME VIDEOS BEFORE ATTEMPTING!***
Carefully route the assembled line end from under the vehicle and around the fuel tank to the top of the tank to where the fuel hat is. Have someone else hold it in place while you route the line under the driver's side along where all the other fuel and evap lines are. Remove the Driver's front fender liner and route the line up into the engine compartment. From there find where you want the regulator to be and carefully mark the location on the fuel line. ***I PULLED THE LINE BACK OUT AND REMOVED ALL PANELS AND MADE IT ALL PRETTY AND ASSEMBLED THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT SIDE OF THE LINE WITH IT OUT OF THE CAR. IT'S EASIER THIS WAY BUT YOU CAN ALSO LEAVE THE LINE IN THE ENGINE BAY AND JUST CUT AND BUILD THE LINE IN PLACE***
11. Build the engine compartment side of the fuel line. This side I believe uses the 45* connection. That said, I personally used a 90* connection because the line you just routed will be installed on the bottom port of the regulator so depending on where you mount the regulator a different angled fitting might be better suited for the location.
12. Use Teflon tape and liberally wrap the bottom port of the regulator connect the line to the bottom port. ***MOST PEOPLE MOUNT THE REGULATOR TO THE BACK SIDE OF THE STRUT TOWER FACING THE BRAKE BOOSTER. I RAN THIS SETUP AT FIRST AND IT WAS GREAT BUT WANTED TO SEE MY FUEL PRESSURE JUST BY CRACKING THE HOOD SO I REROUTED TO THE FRONT OF THE STRUT TOWER***
13. Build the fuel rail adapter by using Teflon tape and installing the 90* double side threaded fitting into the side of the adapter, tighten it down. plug the adapter into the rail until it clicks then connect the stock fuel feed line into the back of the adapter. Cut another section of line after measuring the distance from the double sided threaded AN fitting in the adapter to the regulator. Build the line with a 90* fitting on one end (for the adapter side) and a straight fitting (for the regulator side.
14. Use Teflon and connect the 90* fitting to the fuel rail on one end and the straight fitting to the side port of the regulator. ***BLOCK OFF THE UNUSED SIDE PORT OF THE REGULATOR USING THE PROVIDED PLUG FITTING***
15. Mount the regulator to your chosen location.
16. First to wire the Sai System you need to know that the 11-12 and the 13-14 models have different color wiring. I found this out the hard way. I'm sure there is some variation depending on build date too so be careful and keep that in mind.
17. The fuel hat the connector wiring needs to be modified. Cut the blue with green tracer wire and yellow with pink tracer wire close to the connector. crimp the black wire from the Sai Li harness to the blue with green tracer and crimp the yellow wire to yellow with pink tracer wire.
18. Run the Sai Li harness through the back seat opening to the trunk area. Connect the grounds to a suitable spot. Mount the relays to a spot and position them so they won't get hit with groceries when you put them in the trunk.
19. Disconnect the Fuel Pump Delivery Module connector. Connect the jumper harness from Sai Li to the FPDM, Splice the Purple wires from the harness near the relays to the PURPLE AND GREEN WIRE TRACER. I've heard some conflicts on this and the instructions say yellow and brown tracer but that just isn't correct for my car. My options were Purple and green tracer or Yellow and grey tracer. Both are bigger gauge wires. I spliced into the Purple and green and it's been just fine. Sai also said the Yellow and grey would have been alright.
20. At this point, route the red power wires from the fuses in the provided harness through under the rear seats, along the driver's rocker panel, and through the little grommet next to the brake booster in the firewall. You can route them how you want from there but I just kept it simple and zip-tied the power wires to the cowling and across to the engine compartment fuse box. Remove the battery line hold down nut (10mm) and install the wires. Re-tighten the nut.
21. Go through from the back to the front of the vehicle and make sure all of your lines are tight, relays are mounted, splices and soldering complete and harness wrapped appropriately with electrical tape, Teflon tape used at all connections, rubber fuel hat covers reinstalled etc. DO NOT RE-INSTALL THE REAR SEATS YET! you want to make sure you can see any leaks.
That about does it. The rest is self explanatory. I'm sure we all vary a bit in the way we have installed our systems so EVERYONE's input is completely welcome on what they did. My goal was to give a couple lessons learned and a basic overview of the install so that more people will try to install it themselves. All in all it's pretty fun and easy.
Alight y'all, I've never done a write up before and I'm missing half my pictures so be gentle! So I've had this kit for a couple of months and about a thousand miles with no issues. The information on an install is extremely hard to find so I hope this helps someone out there.
1. To empty the tank so you can fill up with E85 disconnect the fuel line to the rail by squeezing the blue locking tab on both sides of the clip and pulling outward. Connect a battery charger or jump box and turn the ignition Key on. Let the fuel drain into an approved container.
2. Disconnect the damn battery!
3. The fuel hat you'll be removing is the one behind the driver's seat. To access the hat locate the two (one on each side) push to release clips for the rear seat. They can be found along the line where the seat cushion meets the body. Push the clips in and the entire rear seat will release.
4. Use a pocket screwdriver and release the connector. Push the fuel line in toward the hat and push the button on the fuel line connector and pull the line off of the hat. Using a large flat head screw driver and hammer, tap the fuel hat locking ring counter-clockwise until the ring releases. ***MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ADEQUATE VENTILATION. IF YOU DIDN'T DRAIN THE FUEL ON STEP ONE THIS IS GONNA BE MESSY SO WATCH YOUR EYEBALLS AND WEAR GLOVES!***
5. The locking ring is bigger than the actual body opening so you can spend 3 hours fighting the ring to get it past the body or you can do what I did. I used tin snips but you can use any type of cutter and carefully notch out about a 1/4" to 1/2" "V" shape in the body so you can easily remove the locking ring.
6. Have a drain pan readily available! Pull the fuel hat up and out of the tank and set it in the pan. Take the new fuel hat and carefully install it in the tank. ***PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE FUEL LEVEL SENSOR AND MAKE SURE IT IS NOT OBSTRUCTED BY THE TRANSFER FUEL LINES OR YOU WILL BE REPEATING THIS STEP!***
7. Okay so now the new fuel hat from Sai Li is in the tank. ***USE A NEW, I REPEAT, NEW!*** fuel pump O-ring or it will leak. If it doesn't right away it will at your first fill up or during the summer when it's hot. Re-install the fuel hat locking ring in reverse order (by fitting it over the hat and pounding it with the large screwdriver and hammer until it locks all the way under the locking tabs).
8. Sai Li sends a 3/8 (I believe) fuel line repair kit with his setup. This is because the dual pump hat has a bigger connection point for the fuel line than the standard GT. ***FIRST MEASURE OR YOU WILL FIGHT THE LINE FOREVER AND POSSIBLY HAVE LEAKS*** lay Sai Li's connector over the stock line and mark the lines in the same place. ***YOU WANT TO PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO WHERE THE NEW CONNECTOR IS IN RELATION TO THE HAT CONNECTION. IF YOUR TOO SHORT OR TWO LONG THE LINE WILL NOT WORK!*** Once your all lined up use a sharp cutting tool and cut the stock line where you previously marked it.
9. Sai's kit comes with a double barb fitting that's brass. I have heard of fuel leaks from this spot so I took no chances. I used a tiny bit of epoxy on both sides of the barb fitting and shoved one end in the freshly cut stock line and the other in the provided connector line. ***SOAK SAI'S LINE IN HOT WATER TO MAKE THE LINE SLIDE OVER BARB FITTING EASIER***. For added security I used two tiny clamps on both ends of the fitting where the lines meet. Install the connector on the fitting on the top of the hat. It's looks kinda sketch without a retaining clip but make sure it clips in all the way and you'll be fine.
10. I measured out exactly how much braided PTFE line to use by building the end of the line that goes into the top of the fuel hat first. Use a 90* AN fitting. Evenly peel back the braid and be careful, you probably will stab yourself with little metal pieces but still, be careful. Slide the screw on fitting over the line then slide the brass seal (ferrel or olive or whatever you have heard it called) over the line end. Keeping everything tight, screw the 90* fitting end and the over the line fitting together. Use Teflon tape and Install that 90* AN fitting on top of the Sai Li fuel hat. ***IF YOU DON'T HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH AN LINES, WATCH SOME VIDEOS BEFORE ATTEMPTING!***
Carefully route the assembled line end from under the vehicle and around the fuel tank to the top of the tank to where the fuel hat is. Have someone else hold it in place while you route the line under the driver's side along where all the other fuel and evap lines are. Remove the Driver's front fender liner and route the line up into the engine compartment. From there find where you want the regulator to be and carefully mark the location on the fuel line. ***I PULLED THE LINE BACK OUT AND REMOVED ALL PANELS AND MADE IT ALL PRETTY AND ASSEMBLED THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT SIDE OF THE LINE WITH IT OUT OF THE CAR. IT'S EASIER THIS WAY BUT YOU CAN ALSO LEAVE THE LINE IN THE ENGINE BAY AND JUST CUT AND BUILD THE LINE IN PLACE***
11. Build the engine compartment side of the fuel line. This side I believe uses the 45* connection. That said, I personally used a 90* connection because the line you just routed will be installed on the bottom port of the regulator so depending on where you mount the regulator a different angled fitting might be better suited for the location.
12. Use Teflon tape and liberally wrap the bottom port of the regulator connect the line to the bottom port. ***MOST PEOPLE MOUNT THE REGULATOR TO THE BACK SIDE OF THE STRUT TOWER FACING THE BRAKE BOOSTER. I RAN THIS SETUP AT FIRST AND IT WAS GREAT BUT WANTED TO SEE MY FUEL PRESSURE JUST BY CRACKING THE HOOD SO I REROUTED TO THE FRONT OF THE STRUT TOWER***
13. Build the fuel rail adapter by using Teflon tape and installing the 90* double side threaded fitting into the side of the adapter, tighten it down. plug the adapter into the rail until it clicks then connect the stock fuel feed line into the back of the adapter. Cut another section of line after measuring the distance from the double sided threaded AN fitting in the adapter to the regulator. Build the line with a 90* fitting on one end (for the adapter side) and a straight fitting (for the regulator side.
14. Use Teflon and connect the 90* fitting to the fuel rail on one end and the straight fitting to the side port of the regulator. ***BLOCK OFF THE UNUSED SIDE PORT OF THE REGULATOR USING THE PROVIDED PLUG FITTING***
15. Mount the regulator to your chosen location.
16. First to wire the Sai System you need to know that the 11-12 and the 13-14 models have different color wiring. I found this out the hard way. I'm sure there is some variation depending on build date too so be careful and keep that in mind.
17. The fuel hat the connector wiring needs to be modified. Cut the blue with green tracer wire and yellow with pink tracer wire close to the connector. crimp the black wire from the Sai Li harness to the blue with green tracer and crimp the yellow wire to yellow with pink tracer wire.
18. Run the Sai Li harness through the back seat opening to the trunk area. Connect the grounds to a suitable spot. Mount the relays to a spot and position them so they won't get hit with groceries when you put them in the trunk.
19. Disconnect the Fuel Pump Delivery Module connector. Connect the jumper harness from Sai Li to the FPDM, Splice the Purple wires from the harness near the relays to the PURPLE AND GREEN WIRE TRACER. I've heard some conflicts on this and the instructions say yellow and brown tracer but that just isn't correct for my car. My options were Purple and green tracer or Yellow and grey tracer. Both are bigger gauge wires. I spliced into the Purple and green and it's been just fine. Sai also said the Yellow and grey would have been alright.
20. At this point, route the red power wires from the fuses in the provided harness through under the rear seats, along the driver's rocker panel, and through the little grommet next to the brake booster in the firewall. You can route them how you want from there but I just kept it simple and zip-tied the power wires to the cowling and across to the engine compartment fuse box. Remove the battery line hold down nut (10mm) and install the wires. Re-tighten the nut.
21. Go through from the back to the front of the vehicle and make sure all of your lines are tight, relays are mounted, splices and soldering complete and harness wrapped appropriately with electrical tape, Teflon tape used at all connections, rubber fuel hat covers reinstalled etc. DO NOT RE-INSTALL THE REAR SEATS YET! you want to make sure you can see any leaks.
That about does it. The rest is self explanatory. I'm sure we all vary a bit in the way we have installed our systems so EVERYONE's input is completely welcome on what they did. My goal was to give a couple lessons learned and a basic overview of the install so that more people will try to install it themselves. All in all it's pretty fun and easy.
1. To empty the tank so you can fill up with E85 disconnect the fuel line to the rail by squeezing the blue locking tab on both sides of the clip and pulling outward. Connect a battery charger or jump box and turn the ignition Key on. Let the fuel drain into an approved container.
2. Disconnect the damn battery!
3. The fuel hat you'll be removing is the one behind the driver's seat. To access the hat locate the two (one on each side) push to release clips for the rear seat. They can be found along the line where the seat cushion meets the body. Push the clips in and the entire rear seat will release.
4. Use a pocket screwdriver and release the connector. Push the fuel line in toward the hat and push the button on the fuel line connector and pull the line off of the hat. Using a large flat head screw driver and hammer, tap the fuel hat locking ring counter-clockwise until the ring releases. ***MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ADEQUATE VENTILATION. IF YOU DIDN'T DRAIN THE FUEL ON STEP ONE THIS IS GONNA BE MESSY SO WATCH YOUR EYEBALLS AND WEAR GLOVES!***
5. The locking ring is bigger than the actual body opening so you can spend 3 hours fighting the ring to get it past the body or you can do what I did. I used tin snips but you can use any type of cutter and carefully notch out about a 1/4" to 1/2" "V" shape in the body so you can easily remove the locking ring.
6. Have a drain pan readily available! Pull the fuel hat up and out of the tank and set it in the pan. Take the new fuel hat and carefully install it in the tank. ***PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE FUEL LEVEL SENSOR AND MAKE SURE IT IS NOT OBSTRUCTED BY THE TRANSFER FUEL LINES OR YOU WILL BE REPEATING THIS STEP!***
7. Okay so now the new fuel hat from Sai Li is in the tank. ***USE A NEW, I REPEAT, NEW!*** fuel pump O-ring or it will leak. If it doesn't right away it will at your first fill up or during the summer when it's hot. Re-install the fuel hat locking ring in reverse order (by fitting it over the hat and pounding it with the large screwdriver and hammer until it locks all the way under the locking tabs).
8. Sai Li sends a 3/8 (I believe) fuel line repair kit with his setup. This is because the dual pump hat has a bigger connection point for the fuel line than the standard GT. ***FIRST MEASURE OR YOU WILL FIGHT THE LINE FOREVER AND POSSIBLY HAVE LEAKS*** lay Sai Li's connector over the stock line and mark the lines in the same place. ***YOU WANT TO PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO WHERE THE NEW CONNECTOR IS IN RELATION TO THE HAT CONNECTION. IF YOUR TOO SHORT OR TWO LONG THE LINE WILL NOT WORK!*** Once your all lined up use a sharp cutting tool and cut the stock line where you previously marked it.
9. Sai's kit comes with a double barb fitting that's brass. I have heard of fuel leaks from this spot so I took no chances. I used a tiny bit of epoxy on both sides of the barb fitting and shoved one end in the freshly cut stock line and the other in the provided connector line. ***SOAK SAI'S LINE IN HOT WATER TO MAKE THE LINE SLIDE OVER BARB FITTING EASIER***. For added security I used two tiny clamps on both ends of the fitting where the lines meet. Install the connector on the fitting on the top of the hat. It's looks kinda sketch without a retaining clip but make sure it clips in all the way and you'll be fine.
10. I measured out exactly how much braided PTFE line to use by building the end of the line that goes into the top of the fuel hat first. Use a 90* AN fitting. Evenly peel back the braid and be careful, you probably will stab yourself with little metal pieces but still, be careful. Slide the screw on fitting over the line then slide the brass seal (ferrel or olive or whatever you have heard it called) over the line end. Keeping everything tight, screw the 90* fitting end and the over the line fitting together. Use Teflon tape and Install that 90* AN fitting on top of the Sai Li fuel hat. ***IF YOU DON'T HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH AN LINES, WATCH SOME VIDEOS BEFORE ATTEMPTING!***
Carefully route the assembled line end from under the vehicle and around the fuel tank to the top of the tank to where the fuel hat is. Have someone else hold it in place while you route the line under the driver's side along where all the other fuel and evap lines are. Remove the Driver's front fender liner and route the line up into the engine compartment. From there find where you want the regulator to be and carefully mark the location on the fuel line. ***I PULLED THE LINE BACK OUT AND REMOVED ALL PANELS AND MADE IT ALL PRETTY AND ASSEMBLED THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT SIDE OF THE LINE WITH IT OUT OF THE CAR. IT'S EASIER THIS WAY BUT YOU CAN ALSO LEAVE THE LINE IN THE ENGINE BAY AND JUST CUT AND BUILD THE LINE IN PLACE***
11. Build the engine compartment side of the fuel line. This side I believe uses the 45* connection. That said, I personally used a 90* connection because the line you just routed will be installed on the bottom port of the regulator so depending on where you mount the regulator a different angled fitting might be better suited for the location.
12. Use Teflon tape and liberally wrap the bottom port of the regulator connect the line to the bottom port. ***MOST PEOPLE MOUNT THE REGULATOR TO THE BACK SIDE OF THE STRUT TOWER FACING THE BRAKE BOOSTER. I RAN THIS SETUP AT FIRST AND IT WAS GREAT BUT WANTED TO SEE MY FUEL PRESSURE JUST BY CRACKING THE HOOD SO I REROUTED TO THE FRONT OF THE STRUT TOWER***
13. Build the fuel rail adapter by using Teflon tape and installing the 90* double side threaded fitting into the side of the adapter, tighten it down. plug the adapter into the rail until it clicks then connect the stock fuel feed line into the back of the adapter. Cut another section of line after measuring the distance from the double sided threaded AN fitting in the adapter to the regulator. Build the line with a 90* fitting on one end (for the adapter side) and a straight fitting (for the regulator side.
14. Use Teflon and connect the 90* fitting to the fuel rail on one end and the straight fitting to the side port of the regulator. ***BLOCK OFF THE UNUSED SIDE PORT OF THE REGULATOR USING THE PROVIDED PLUG FITTING***
15. Mount the regulator to your chosen location.
16. First to wire the Sai System you need to know that the 11-12 and the 13-14 models have different color wiring. I found this out the hard way. I'm sure there is some variation depending on build date too so be careful and keep that in mind.
17. The fuel hat the connector wiring needs to be modified. Cut the blue with green tracer wire and yellow with pink tracer wire close to the connector. crimp the black wire from the Sai Li harness to the blue with green tracer and crimp the yellow wire to yellow with pink tracer wire.
18. Run the Sai Li harness through the back seat opening to the trunk area. Connect the grounds to a suitable spot. Mount the relays to a spot and position them so they won't get hit with groceries when you put them in the trunk.
19. Disconnect the Fuel Pump Delivery Module connector. Connect the jumper harness from Sai Li to the FPDM, Splice the Purple wires from the harness near the relays to the PURPLE AND GREEN WIRE TRACER. I've heard some conflicts on this and the instructions say yellow and brown tracer but that just isn't correct for my car. My options were Purple and green tracer or Yellow and grey tracer. Both are bigger gauge wires. I spliced into the Purple and green and it's been just fine. Sai also said the Yellow and grey would have been alright.
20. At this point, route the red power wires from the fuses in the provided harness through under the rear seats, along the driver's rocker panel, and through the little grommet next to the brake booster in the firewall. You can route them how you want from there but I just kept it simple and zip-tied the power wires to the cowling and across to the engine compartment fuse box. Remove the battery line hold down nut (10mm) and install the wires. Re-tighten the nut.
21. Go through from the back to the front of the vehicle and make sure all of your lines are tight, relays are mounted, splices and soldering complete and harness wrapped appropriately with electrical tape, Teflon tape used at all connections, rubber fuel hat covers reinstalled etc. DO NOT RE-INSTALL THE REAR SEATS YET! you want to make sure you can see any leaks.
That about does it. The rest is self explanatory. I'm sure we all vary a bit in the way we have installed our systems so EVERYONE's input is completely welcome on what they did. My goal was to give a couple lessons learned and a basic overview of the install so that more people will try to install it themselves. All in all it's pretty fun and easy.
Alight y'all, I've never done a write up before and I'm missing half my pictures so be gentle! So I've had this kit for a couple of months and about a thousand miles with no issues. The information on an install is extremely hard to find so I hope this helps someone out there.
1. To empty the tank so you can fill up with E85 disconnect the fuel line to the rail by squeezing the blue locking tab on both sides of the clip and pulling outward. Connect a battery charger or jump box and turn the ignition Key on. Let the fuel drain into an approved container.
2. Disconnect the damn battery!
3. The fuel hat you'll be removing is the one behind the driver's seat. To access the hat locate the two (one on each side) push to release clips for the rear seat. They can be found along the line where the seat cushion meets the body. Push the clips in and the entire rear seat will release.
4. Use a pocket screwdriver and release the connector. Push the fuel line in toward the hat and push the button on the fuel line connector and pull the line off of the hat. Using a large flat head screw driver and hammer, tap the fuel hat locking ring counter-clockwise until the ring releases. ***MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ADEQUATE VENTILATION. IF YOU DIDN'T DRAIN THE FUEL ON STEP ONE THIS IS GONNA BE MESSY SO WATCH YOUR EYEBALLS AND WEAR GLOVES!***
5. The locking ring is bigger than the actual body opening so you can spend 3 hours fighting the ring to get it past the body or you can do what I did. I used tin snips but you can use any type of cutter and carefully notch out about a 1/4" to 1/2" "V" shape in the body so you can easily remove the locking ring.
6. Have a drain pan readily available! Pull the fuel hat up and out of the tank and set it in the pan. Take the new fuel hat and carefully install it in the tank. ***PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE FUEL LEVEL SENSOR AND MAKE SURE IT IS NOT OBSTRUCTED BY THE TRANSFER FUEL LINES OR YOU WILL BE REPEATING THIS STEP!***
7. Okay so now the new fuel hat from Sai Li is in the tank. ***USE A NEW, I REPEAT, NEW!*** fuel pump O-ring or it will leak. If it doesn't right away it will at your first fill up or during the summer when it's hot. Re-install the fuel hat locking ring in reverse order (by fitting it over the hat and pounding it with the large screwdriver and hammer until it locks all the way under the locking tabs).
8. Sai Li sends a 3/8 (I believe) fuel line repair kit with his setup. This is because the dual pump hat has a bigger connection point for the fuel line than the standard GT. ***FIRST MEASURE OR YOU WILL FIGHT THE LINE FOREVER AND POSSIBLY HAVE LEAKS*** lay Sai Li's connector over the stock line and mark the lines in the same place. ***YOU WANT TO PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO WHERE THE NEW CONNECTOR IS IN RELATION TO THE HAT CONNECTION. IF YOUR TOO SHORT OR TWO LONG THE LINE WILL NOT WORK!*** Once your all lined up use a sharp cutting tool and cut the stock line where you previously marked it.
9. Sai's kit comes with a double barb fitting that's brass. I have heard of fuel leaks from this spot so I took no chances. I used a tiny bit of epoxy on both sides of the barb fitting and shoved one end in the freshly cut stock line and the other in the provided connector line. ***SOAK SAI'S LINE IN HOT WATER TO MAKE THE LINE SLIDE OVER BARB FITTING EASIER***. For added security I used two tiny clamps on both ends of the fitting where the lines meet. Install the connector on the fitting on the top of the hat. It's looks kinda sketch without a retaining clip but make sure it clips in all the way and you'll be fine.
10. I measured out exactly how much braided PTFE line to use by building the end of the line that goes into the top of the fuel hat first. Use a 90* AN fitting. Evenly peel back the braid and be careful, you probably will stab yourself with little metal pieces but still, be careful. Slide the screw on fitting over the line then slide the brass seal (ferrel or olive or whatever you have heard it called) over the line end. Keeping everything tight, screw the 90* fitting end and the over the line fitting together. Use Teflon tape and Install that 90* AN fitting on top of the Sai Li fuel hat. ***IF YOU DON'T HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH AN LINES, WATCH SOME VIDEOS BEFORE ATTEMPTING!***
Carefully route the assembled line end from under the vehicle and around the fuel tank to the top of the tank to where the fuel hat is. Have someone else hold it in place while you route the line under the driver's side along where all the other fuel and evap lines are. Remove the Driver's front fender liner and route the line up into the engine compartment. From there find where you want the regulator to be and carefully mark the location on the fuel line. ***I PULLED THE LINE BACK OUT AND REMOVED ALL PANELS AND MADE IT ALL PRETTY AND ASSEMBLED THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT SIDE OF THE LINE WITH IT OUT OF THE CAR. IT'S EASIER THIS WAY BUT YOU CAN ALSO LEAVE THE LINE IN THE ENGINE BAY AND JUST CUT AND BUILD THE LINE IN PLACE***
11. Build the engine compartment side of the fuel line. This side I believe uses the 45* connection. That said, I personally used a 90* connection because the line you just routed will be installed on the bottom port of the regulator so depending on where you mount the regulator a different angled fitting might be better suited for the location.
12. Use Teflon tape and liberally wrap the bottom port of the regulator connect the line to the bottom port. ***MOST PEOPLE MOUNT THE REGULATOR TO THE BACK SIDE OF THE STRUT TOWER FACING THE BRAKE BOOSTER. I RAN THIS SETUP AT FIRST AND IT WAS GREAT BUT WANTED TO SEE MY FUEL PRESSURE JUST BY CRACKING THE HOOD SO I REROUTED TO THE FRONT OF THE STRUT TOWER***
13. Build the fuel rail adapter by using Teflon tape and installing the 90* double side threaded fitting into the side of the adapter, tighten it down. plug the adapter into the rail until it clicks then connect the stock fuel feed line into the back of the adapter. Cut another section of line after measuring the distance from the double sided threaded AN fitting in the adapter to the regulator. Build the line with a 90* fitting on one end (for the adapter side) and a straight fitting (for the regulator side.
14. Use Teflon and connect the 90* fitting to the fuel rail on one end and the straight fitting to the side port of the regulator. ***BLOCK OFF THE UNUSED SIDE PORT OF THE REGULATOR USING THE PROVIDED PLUG FITTING***
15. Mount the regulator to your chosen location.
16. First to wire the Sai System you need to know that the 11-12 and the 13-14 models have different color wiring. I found this out the hard way. I'm sure there is some variation depending on build date too so be careful and keep that in mind.
17. The fuel hat the connector wiring needs to be modified. Cut the blue with green tracer wire and yellow with pink tracer wire close to the connector. crimp the black wire from the Sai Li harness to the blue with green tracer and crimp the yellow wire to yellow with pink tracer wire.
18. Run the Sai Li harness through the back seat opening to the trunk area. Connect the grounds to a suitable spot. Mount the relays to a spot and position them so they won't get hit with groceries when you put them in the trunk.
19. Disconnect the Fuel Pump Delivery Module connector. Connect the jumper harness from Sai Li to the FPDM, Splice the Purple wires from the harness near the relays to the PURPLE AND GREEN WIRE TRACER. I've heard some conflicts on this and the instructions say yellow and brown tracer but that just isn't correct for my car. My options were Purple and green tracer or Yellow and grey tracer. Both are bigger gauge wires. I spliced into the Purple and green and it's been just fine. Sai also said the Yellow and grey would have been alright.
20. At this point, route the red power wires from the fuses in the provided harness through under the rear seats, along the driver's rocker panel, and through the little grommet next to the brake booster in the firewall. You can route them how you want from there but I just kept it simple and zip-tied the power wires to the cowling and across to the engine compartment fuse box. Remove the battery line hold down nut (10mm) and install the wires. Re-tighten the nut.
21. Go through from the back to the front of the vehicle and make sure all of your lines are tight, relays are mounted, splices and soldering complete and harness wrapped appropriately with electrical tape, Teflon tape used at all connections, rubber fuel hat covers reinstalled etc. DO NOT RE-INSTALL THE REAR SEATS YET! you want to make sure you can see any leaks.
That about does it. The rest is self explanatory. I'm sure we all vary a bit in the way we have installed our systems so EVERYONE's input is completely welcome on what they did. My goal was to give a couple lessons learned and a basic overview of the install so that more people will try to install it themselves. All in all it's pretty fun and easy.
1. To empty the tank so you can fill up with E85 disconnect the fuel line to the rail by squeezing the blue locking tab on both sides of the clip and pulling outward. Connect a battery charger or jump box and turn the ignition Key on. Let the fuel drain into an approved container.
2. Disconnect the damn battery!
3. The fuel hat you'll be removing is the one behind the driver's seat. To access the hat locate the two (one on each side) push to release clips for the rear seat. They can be found along the line where the seat cushion meets the body. Push the clips in and the entire rear seat will release.
4. Use a pocket screwdriver and release the connector. Push the fuel line in toward the hat and push the button on the fuel line connector and pull the line off of the hat. Using a large flat head screw driver and hammer, tap the fuel hat locking ring counter-clockwise until the ring releases. ***MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ADEQUATE VENTILATION. IF YOU DIDN'T DRAIN THE FUEL ON STEP ONE THIS IS GONNA BE MESSY SO WATCH YOUR EYEBALLS AND WEAR GLOVES!***
5. The locking ring is bigger than the actual body opening so you can spend 3 hours fighting the ring to get it past the body or you can do what I did. I used tin snips but you can use any type of cutter and carefully notch out about a 1/4" to 1/2" "V" shape in the body so you can easily remove the locking ring.
6. Have a drain pan readily available! Pull the fuel hat up and out of the tank and set it in the pan. Take the new fuel hat and carefully install it in the tank. ***PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE FUEL LEVEL SENSOR AND MAKE SURE IT IS NOT OBSTRUCTED BY THE TRANSFER FUEL LINES OR YOU WILL BE REPEATING THIS STEP!***
7. Okay so now the new fuel hat from Sai Li is in the tank. ***USE A NEW, I REPEAT, NEW!*** fuel pump O-ring or it will leak. If it doesn't right away it will at your first fill up or during the summer when it's hot. Re-install the fuel hat locking ring in reverse order (by fitting it over the hat and pounding it with the large screwdriver and hammer until it locks all the way under the locking tabs).
8. Sai Li sends a 3/8 (I believe) fuel line repair kit with his setup. This is because the dual pump hat has a bigger connection point for the fuel line than the standard GT. ***FIRST MEASURE OR YOU WILL FIGHT THE LINE FOREVER AND POSSIBLY HAVE LEAKS*** lay Sai Li's connector over the stock line and mark the lines in the same place. ***YOU WANT TO PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO WHERE THE NEW CONNECTOR IS IN RELATION TO THE HAT CONNECTION. IF YOUR TOO SHORT OR TWO LONG THE LINE WILL NOT WORK!*** Once your all lined up use a sharp cutting tool and cut the stock line where you previously marked it.
9. Sai's kit comes with a double barb fitting that's brass. I have heard of fuel leaks from this spot so I took no chances. I used a tiny bit of epoxy on both sides of the barb fitting and shoved one end in the freshly cut stock line and the other in the provided connector line. ***SOAK SAI'S LINE IN HOT WATER TO MAKE THE LINE SLIDE OVER BARB FITTING EASIER***. For added security I used two tiny clamps on both ends of the fitting where the lines meet. Install the connector on the fitting on the top of the hat. It's looks kinda sketch without a retaining clip but make sure it clips in all the way and you'll be fine.
10. I measured out exactly how much braided PTFE line to use by building the end of the line that goes into the top of the fuel hat first. Use a 90* AN fitting. Evenly peel back the braid and be careful, you probably will stab yourself with little metal pieces but still, be careful. Slide the screw on fitting over the line then slide the brass seal (ferrel or olive or whatever you have heard it called) over the line end. Keeping everything tight, screw the 90* fitting end and the over the line fitting together. Use Teflon tape and Install that 90* AN fitting on top of the Sai Li fuel hat. ***IF YOU DON'T HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH AN LINES, WATCH SOME VIDEOS BEFORE ATTEMPTING!***
Carefully route the assembled line end from under the vehicle and around the fuel tank to the top of the tank to where the fuel hat is. Have someone else hold it in place while you route the line under the driver's side along where all the other fuel and evap lines are. Remove the Driver's front fender liner and route the line up into the engine compartment. From there find where you want the regulator to be and carefully mark the location on the fuel line. ***I PULLED THE LINE BACK OUT AND REMOVED ALL PANELS AND MADE IT ALL PRETTY AND ASSEMBLED THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT SIDE OF THE LINE WITH IT OUT OF THE CAR. IT'S EASIER THIS WAY BUT YOU CAN ALSO LEAVE THE LINE IN THE ENGINE BAY AND JUST CUT AND BUILD THE LINE IN PLACE***
11. Build the engine compartment side of the fuel line. This side I believe uses the 45* connection. That said, I personally used a 90* connection because the line you just routed will be installed on the bottom port of the regulator so depending on where you mount the regulator a different angled fitting might be better suited for the location.
12. Use Teflon tape and liberally wrap the bottom port of the regulator connect the line to the bottom port. ***MOST PEOPLE MOUNT THE REGULATOR TO THE BACK SIDE OF THE STRUT TOWER FACING THE BRAKE BOOSTER. I RAN THIS SETUP AT FIRST AND IT WAS GREAT BUT WANTED TO SEE MY FUEL PRESSURE JUST BY CRACKING THE HOOD SO I REROUTED TO THE FRONT OF THE STRUT TOWER***
13. Build the fuel rail adapter by using Teflon tape and installing the 90* double side threaded fitting into the side of the adapter, tighten it down. plug the adapter into the rail until it clicks then connect the stock fuel feed line into the back of the adapter. Cut another section of line after measuring the distance from the double sided threaded AN fitting in the adapter to the regulator. Build the line with a 90* fitting on one end (for the adapter side) and a straight fitting (for the regulator side.
14. Use Teflon and connect the 90* fitting to the fuel rail on one end and the straight fitting to the side port of the regulator. ***BLOCK OFF THE UNUSED SIDE PORT OF THE REGULATOR USING THE PROVIDED PLUG FITTING***
15. Mount the regulator to your chosen location.
16. First to wire the Sai System you need to know that the 11-12 and the 13-14 models have different color wiring. I found this out the hard way. I'm sure there is some variation depending on build date too so be careful and keep that in mind.
17. The fuel hat the connector wiring needs to be modified. Cut the blue with green tracer wire and yellow with pink tracer wire close to the connector. crimp the black wire from the Sai Li harness to the blue with green tracer and crimp the yellow wire to yellow with pink tracer wire.
18. Run the Sai Li harness through the back seat opening to the trunk area. Connect the grounds to a suitable spot. Mount the relays to a spot and position them so they won't get hit with groceries when you put them in the trunk.
19. Disconnect the Fuel Pump Delivery Module connector. Connect the jumper harness from Sai Li to the FPDM, Splice the Purple wires from the harness near the relays to the PURPLE AND GREEN WIRE TRACER. I've heard some conflicts on this and the instructions say yellow and brown tracer but that just isn't correct for my car. My options were Purple and green tracer or Yellow and grey tracer. Both are bigger gauge wires. I spliced into the Purple and green and it's been just fine. Sai also said the Yellow and grey would have been alright.
20. At this point, route the red power wires from the fuses in the provided harness through under the rear seats, along the driver's rocker panel, and through the little grommet next to the brake booster in the firewall. You can route them how you want from there but I just kept it simple and zip-tied the power wires to the cowling and across to the engine compartment fuse box. Remove the battery line hold down nut (10mm) and install the wires. Re-tighten the nut.
21. Go through from the back to the front of the vehicle and make sure all of your lines are tight, relays are mounted, splices and soldering complete and harness wrapped appropriately with electrical tape, Teflon tape used at all connections, rubber fuel hat covers reinstalled etc. DO NOT RE-INSTALL THE REAR SEATS YET! you want to make sure you can see any leaks.
That about does it. The rest is self explanatory. I'm sure we all vary a bit in the way we have installed our systems so EVERYONE's input is completely welcome on what they did. My goal was to give a couple lessons learned and a basic overview of the install so that more people will try to install it themselves. All in all it's pretty fun and easy.
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