Those of you that have installed a return system, how did you route it?

dumbstixlars · Apr 10, 2018

Planning on running up the passenger side with both the feed/return lines to the regulator in the passenger wheel well.

Since I have you all here, I need to find a trigger wire to turn on the FC2, is this the FPDM (yellow circle) and can I use this wire (red circle) to trigger the FC2?

That wire was feeding the BAP, and i traced it to the original pumps as the power wire.

dumbstixlars · Apr 10, 2018

Bdubbs said:
Mine is in this same location. My subframe connectors sit lower than the filter housing.

View attachment 1479630

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I'd like to put it here, but it'll get crushed then I put it on my lift. The only place I can see that looks like it'll work is under the feet of the passenger rear floorboard. Which will be kind of lame because the screws might poke up through the carpet, but there isn't enough room in the wheel well that I can see, and everything else put it super low (exhaust already drags everywhere as it is).

MG0h3 · Apr 10, 2018

I can’t recall everything but go to Malcolm’s thread in the how to archive. On my phone so it’d be hard to find but how to wire for factory prime.

You’re using 3/10 to trigger primary pump if I remember correctly.

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Bdubbs · Apr 10, 2018

dumbstixlars said:
I'd like to put it here, but it'll get crushed then I put it on my lift. The only place I can see that looks like it'll work is under the feet of the passenger rear floorboard. Which will be kind of lame because the screws might poke up through the carpet, but there isn't enough room in the wheel well that I can see, and everything else put it super low (exhaust already drags everywhere as it is).

Hmm never thought of that. I plan on one day having a lift. Can't a person lift from the subframe connectors?

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dumbstixlars · Apr 10, 2018

Bdubbs said:
Hmm never thought of that. I plan on one day having a lift. Can't a person lift from the subframe connectors?

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You can, my quickjacks overlay where yours sits however when I pick it up from the pinch welds.

dumbstixlars · Apr 10, 2018

MG0h3 said:
I can’t recall everything but go to Malcolm’s thread in the how to archive. On my phone so it’d be hard to find but how to wire for factory prime.

You’re using 3/10 to trigger primary pump if I remember correctly.

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Yeah I was looking for his thread, tons of useful information in there.

03' White Snake · Apr 10, 2018

bigmoose said:
Since you are running the stock rails I'd definitely go passenger side. The stock rail connection points to the passenger side. It would be a pain to properly connect to that from the driver side.

If you go aftermarket rails and connect to the back of the rail I guess it probably doesn't matter.

You are right for sure. Stock rails, feed it from the passenger side, I didn't catch that. Mine is feeding aftermarket rails. With the egr delete there is plenty of room behind the blower.

97snakebite · Apr 10, 2018

ShootyMCstabby said:
You can't lol. Unless you have some magical injectors

Deadhead setup is return before rails. which is what fore does.

Bdubbs · Apr 10, 2018

ShootyMCstabby said:
You can't lol. Unless you have some magical injectors

Dead head before rails...

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dumbstixlars · Apr 11, 2018

What do you guys do with the old fuel line? You just remove the rubber ends? Looks like it would be pretty difficult to remove the metal lines.

bigmoose · Apr 11, 2018

I left the stock hard line in place. There really is no reason to remove it.

Bdubbs · Apr 11, 2018

bigmoose said:
I left the stock hard line in place. There really is no reason to remove it.

+1.

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Soap · Apr 11, 2018

dumbstixlars said:
What do you guys do with the old fuel line? You just remove the rubber ends? Looks like it would be pretty difficult to remove the metal lines.

It's all very easy to remove, just use some snips and make a few cuts and it falls right out. The extra weight and wind drag would probably cost you a tenth.

--Joe

dumbstixlars · Apr 11, 2018

I'm not worried about weight, just making it a clean install.

SVTdreamin04 · Apr 11, 2018

KEVINS said:
Not true. Mine also returns the fuel to the tank before going to the motor. This keeps the fuel from absorbing unnecessary engine heat which is what Malcom was fighting and cured on his car. See figure #1.

Malcolm wasn't the only one fighting this issue. I was as well and can attest to running deadhead return with the regulator out of the engine bay being the route to go.

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KEVINS · Apr 11, 2018

SVTdreamin04 said:
Malcolm wasn't the only one fighting this issue. I was as well and can attest to running deadhead return with the regulator out of the engine bay being the route to go.

Yea, there was a lot of people having this issue and I think everyone that changed to this version solved their issues. IMO, this is the only way to run the fuel lines especially on a street car. I found the original post as I was planning my new fuel system so it came at the perfect time for me.

ks

SVTdreamin04 · Apr 11, 2018

KEVINS said:
Yea, there was a lot of people having this issue and I think everyone that changed to this version solved their issues. IMO, this is the only way to run the fuel lines especially on a street car.

ks

Dude, mine was so bad after upgrading my fuel pump and blower, the pump sounded like it was going to explode. The car wreaked of gas fumes and it drive like crap. I stumbled on Malcolm's thread he wrote up years back, and went deadhead. Malcolm has saved guys like me a ton of time and money by doing all the footwork, and documenting his findings.

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BoostedSVT03 · Apr 12, 2018

MG0h3 said:
I can’t recall everything but go to Malcolm’s thread in the how to archive. On my phone so it’d be hard to find but how to wire for factory prime.

You’re using 3/10 to trigger primary pump if I remember correctly.

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This is how mine is wired and primes like stock and the inertia switch still works

dumbstixlars · Apr 18, 2018

BoostedSVT03 said:
This is how mine is wired and primes like stock and the inertia switch still works

View attachment 1480397

I think I need to run the wire I circled in the pic at the top of the page to the FC2 remote. I won't be running any kind of hobbs switch.

dumbstixlars · Apr 29, 2018

BoostedSVT03 said:
This is how mine is wired and primes like stock and the inertia switch still works

View attachment 1480397

That green yellow, is that switched 12V?

Those of you that have installed a return system, how did you route it?

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u even lift bro?

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u even lift bro?

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u even lift bro?

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