Can't get this bitch in to gear even with new X spec MGW

Going to pick up the amsoil fluids recommended by Ben Calimer tomorrow. Probably won't get to changing it tomorrow because I have to study for CDC test, but this week for sure. mcleod stainless clutch line and a divorced reservoir is also on the way.

2018 clutch has to wait, they are backordered for over a month right now.

Okay I have confirmed that it is the slave cylinder.

For anyone having this issue in the future where your transmission is progressively getting more notchy:
Take your car onto a flat surface, start it and put it in first gear, keep the clutch completely pressed in to the floor and rev. You may have to rev it high (I took mine to 5krpms), but if at any point during the rev your car starts inching forward that means your clutch is not disengaging properly (which points to the slave cylinder).

The more you know, I guess. Lol

It could also be air in the system or a faulty Master Cylinder or even a bad Pilot Shaft Bearing!!

BG Synchro shift II. Try a fluid change.

It’s always the clutch on these cars not the slave. The pressure plates gets deformed at higher rpms locking the car out. Replace it before you wear the synchros out. No baid aids will fix the pressure plate.

In other cars I have had a TOB go bad...and it would eat into the PP fingers and start breaking them off, making it impossible to shift into gear.

The clutch is a consumable item. The stock assembly will not last forever. At near 60k miles the OEM unit is more than likely toast. Of course all the other components must up to snuff. The stock clutch is the week part of our cars. It needs to be replaced ASAP. The longer the car is operated with the clutch dragging the more the transmission internals will suffer. A good aftermarket kit with a TOB will be your answer.

The stock clutch is the week part of our cars.

I do not believe this!!

Stock Ford clutches may not handle high HP but I have had GREAT luck with OEM clutches and a LOT of failures with aftermarket ones!!

^ if you have an 11-17 then your in denial

Mine in my 2014 GT works fine and I had Ford clutches in several Kit cars with BIG engines but I have to admit I DON'T DO BURN OUTS OR DRAG RACE!!

Street cars do not need high performance clutches for normal street driving!!

In that regard then yes you are correct, if you dont beat on it, it will probably last forever. However the 11-17s seem to go south abnormally faster then previous clutches when beat on.

Ford has "Cheaped Out" on lotsa parts and as a result we live with much less durability.....across their entire product line!!

I just blast around through the countryside in the Mustang every once in awhile....if it was a DD or if I Drag Raced I'd probably have gotten an automatic!!

I had the same issues for nearly 6 months after I bought my 2011 last year. I got the new X spec and it still shifted like hell. So the over all cure for locks out, notcheness and over all performance was the Mcleod RST clutch, Mcleod Steel Flywheel, new JPC Braided line, Exedy Slave Cylinder and Pilot bearing. Was is costly, yes. But now I can shift the car past 7500 with no lock outs. The notcheness is still kind of there but I am just waiting for the tranny to blow up so I have a reason to put a T56 XL in it.

Okay, so to update this thread... the issue was, my slave cylinder literally had came apart into two pieces lol!

So now, after doing all the band-aids I have all these mods:
MGW X Spec (21% reduction throw is what I opted for), Divorced clutch reservoir, stainless steel braided clutch line, DOT 4 fluid, the Amsoil "elixir" Trans Fluid (2 QTs amsoil MTF, .7 QT 75W90 trans Gear Lube), new OEM Slave cylinder, new Ford Performance Pilot Bearing, and last but definitely not least a Exedy Mach 500 (not the grooved one from AM, got the clutch for $300 from Beefcake). I also reused the stock flywheel, I just had it resurfaced. Also (pro-tip), the flywheel dowel pins Exedy sends for your flywheel do NOT fit in the 11-12 flywheel (not sure if it works on 13-14 or not). I actually did the install without any dowel pins at all, and just made sure the holes were lined up right, and I used the clutch alignment tool. 0 Chatter, 0 Vibration on this setup. And the clutch pedal did NOT increase in firmness. It feels a little more springy, which feels great (I do have the clutch pedal spring still in by the way). My cousin actually has the McLeod RST twin disc, and another friend local to him just installed the Mach 500. From his mouth: "The pedal feels perfect, it's better than my RST". Also, no chatter like the RST

So everything is done now, and the clutch is broken in (500 mile break in period) and let me tell you...
I did NOT know that a trans could even shift this well! It's got a slight notch that can be expected with a shorter throw which feels NICE during normal driving, and then after finally getting on it with around a 7400 RPM shift, the car goes in to gear like BUTTER. It's absolutely absurd! I couldn't even tell that I went in to the next gear. I done two pulls with a 2nd-3rd, and then a 2nd-3rd-4th shifts at 7400ish RPM. Every single one was just smooth beyond belief.

It's my strong belief that the majority of the issue is the stock pressure plate & clutch combo now. After having the MGW on a brand new 2014 before this, and still having it feel not anything like this, I can without a doubt say that everyone should be replacing the stock setup immediately. Just had to share my experience. If you're having any issues, just try to work with your MT82. The car legit feels amazing now, and that's after driving a couple thousand miles with a broken slave cylinder with it being very hard to get in gear. I'll post the video of the old slave actually... enjoy lol.