Got my PB and Grenaded an axle

I would disconnect the return line (top) at the diff cover, fill diff and then run the pump until you see a steady stream of the new fluid. Then reconnect return line and fill to recommended level.
I couldn't find a flush and fill procedure, but this will help with the fill procedure.

Differential Housing Cover.pdf

Snoopy49 said:

I would disconnect the return line (top) at the diff cover, fill diff and then run the pump until you see a steady stream of the new fluid. Then reconnect return line and fill to recommended level.
I couldn't find a flush and fill procedure, but this will help with the fill procedure.

Differential Housing Cover.pdf

Click to expand...

Great thanks I’ll try that. I seen on the first page of that pdf is says “Vehicles equipped with a rear differential oil cooler. Refer to the procedure.”

Which procedure are they talking about?

I think they are talking about this.

NOTE: Service refill capacities are determined by filling the axle to a level of 5mm below the bottom of the fill hole with the axle at ride height.

1. Remove the axle plug and fill the axle with 1.89-2.01L (4-4.25 pt) of axle lubricant and a additional 4.0 oz of friction modifier additive, then use a scan tool to operate the oil cooler pump and add a additional 1.10L (2 pt) of axle lubricant and a additional 2 oz of friction modifier and install the filler plug.
   • Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb-ft).
   
   This assumes you where able to drain all the fluid from the entire cooling system.

If you are working alone, I would recommend a remote switch with a cord long enough to reach the rear end of the car. That way you can shut off the pump if things start to go sideways and avoid a mess.

Moser M88?

Snoopy49 said:

If you are working alone, I would recommend a remote switch with a cord long enough to reach the rear end of the car. That way you can shut off the pump if things start to go sideways and avoid a mess.

Click to expand...

Excellent thanks. Not much if any came out of the lines. Do you think I might be able to get away with skipping this step and just filling up the diff or since I have to use different fluid I should jump it and flush it first? Also I take that to mean fill up the diff, jump the pump for a few secs then check the fluid again etc?

QuickHomestead said:

Moser M88?
View attachment 1487445

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very nice

RazorGTP said:

Excellent thanks. Not much if any came out of the lines. Do you think I might be able to get away with skipping this step and just filling up the diff or since I have to use different fluid I should jump it and flush it first? Also I take that to mean fill up the diff, jump the pump for a few secs then check the fluid again etc?
very nice

Click to expand...

Your not going to get much out of the cooler lines because the cooler is lower than the highest point in the circuit.

I would drain all the old fluid from the diff housing, reinstall and seal the diff cover and remove the fill plug on the drivers side of the rear axle housing and fill the diff up to the full mark, 5mm below the fill hole. Plug the fill hole and remove the top (return) line and then I would get a bucket and put the end of the return line into the bucket , turn on the pump and flush out the old oil with the new oil. Make sure you monitor the oil level in the diff and don't let it get to close to the bottom output (supply) cooler line, you don't want to push air into the system and have to bleed it. When you get a steady stream of the new oil coming out of the return line, shut off the pump, reconnect the return line to the cover and fill the diff up to the full mark. Then run the pump for a couple of minutes and recheck the fluid level, add oil as needed. Run pump and check again, if the oil level is okay, put some sealant on the fill plug and torque it to spec..
Check for leaks.

Snoopy49 said:

Your not going to get much out of the cooler lines because the cooler is lower than the highest point in the circuit.

I would drain all the old fluid from the diff housing, reinstall and seal the diff cover and disconnect the top (return) line and fill the diff up to the full mark, 5mm below the fill hole. Then I would get a bucket and put the end of the return line into the bucket , turn on the pump and flush out the old oil with the new oil. Make sure you monitor the oil level in the diff and don't let it get to close to the bottom output (supply) cooler line, you don't want to push air into the system and have to bleed it. When you a steady stream of the new oil coming out of the return line, shut off the pump, reconnect the return line to the cover and fill the diff up to the full mark. Then run the pump for a couple of minutes and recheck the fluid level, add oil as needed. Run pump and check again, if the oil level is okay, put some sealant on the fill plug and torque it to spec..
Check for leaks.

Click to expand...

You're awesome man thanks for all the help! I'll have my housing back from the shop next weekend and will do this as I install it. If I run into any issues I hope you don't mind me picking your brain more.

I assumed the top hole in the aluminum cover was the fill hole. I found out that you can add fluid there but when it comes to determining the fluid level, you have to remove the fill plug in the drivers side front of the axle housing and make sure the fluid level is 5 mm below this hole. If that is the case, I would just fill and check the fluid level at the front fill plug.

Confirmation would be appreciated.

Well thanks to a bunch of people including Snoopy and BJ I ordered my parts, set up, painted, installing and now breaking the gears in, all is good!

Mosier 31spline custom alloy axles w/ 3” studs
Eaton TrueTrac
FRPP 3.73 gears
Welded tubes
All bearings and seals

Like everyone says “these cars should have came with 3.73s” id have to agree! I only have 100 miles breaking it in so far so I haven’t really got into boost yet but I can wait! Also instead of just painting the welds I decided to do everything except the diff cover.

Very nicely done!
Just wait to you get more seat time and you’ll see why I say don’t fear the gear!
Car feels so much more responsive and lighter at low speeds and off boost and 6th can actually be used on the highway
Nice build
My Strange 9” was ordered on Friday, 2 week count down
-J

QuickHomestead said:

Moser M88?
View attachment 1487445

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Nice idea but if spending that money just go 9”
We already have a great 8.8 in these cars so the M88 isn’t worth it IMO
8.8 is more efficient and might help some but I’ll take a 9” if any drag use.
-J

RazorGTP said:

View attachment 1490161 Well thanks to a bunch of people including Snoopy and BJ I ordered my parts, set up, painted, installing and now breaking the gears in, all is good!

Mosier 31spline custom alloy axles w/ 3” studs
Eaton TrueTrac
FRPP 3.73 gears
Welded tubes
All bearings and seals

Like everyone says “these cars should have came with 3.73s” id have to agree! I only have 100 miles breaking it in so far so I haven’t really got into boost yet but I can wait! Also instead of just painting the welds I decided to do everything except the diff cover.

Click to expand...

Nice work.


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