Ram Air hood

1 Alibi 2

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To my knowledge, the only aftermarket hood that has anything that feeds air to the stock air box ( ram air effect ) is the Black Mamba Hood.
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DSC_0100_zpsck4hozi4.jpg
 

Robert M

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So I was thinking about purchasing cervinis Ram Air hood that resembles the Super Snake hood. Has anyone used this hood? Any issues with fitment, water in the engine bay, etc.?

https://www.cjponyparts.com/cervini...vdiLDoCm_wBUdMOFBdqUAc-KKcE_Bd-AaAoskEALw_wcB

Sent from my SM-N950U using the svtperformance.com mobile app


The Cervini hood you have linked is more along the lines of a GT500KR look in comparison to the Super Snake. The center divider is the indicator......

kr-vs-ss.jpg


The arrows all over the Red Super Snake hood are pointing to differences between the GT500KR and the Super Snake hoods.

20180202_092033.jpg


Many aftermarket vendors "lump" them all into Super Snake, but there are differences, and most have never seen a side-by-side comparison of these two similar (but different) hoods. Some aftermarket hoods have a mixture of both the Super Snake and GT500KR look on their hoods.......


R
 
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tktlwyr

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I purchased one, pre-painted, a few years ago. It was under $1,000 shipped. It's nice, but not perfect. The louvers on the hood need to be sanded down to be perfectly flat with the hood. Since my car is a driver with 106,000 miles on it, I didn't bother. I've had no issues with it other than one of the squirters clogging.
 

Willie

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I have this hood:

Ford Mustang GT500 Fiberglass Ram Air hood

Fit like a glove and no prepping needed. Just sanding for primer / paint. It's been two years now and still looks like new.

I then took it to Arizona Pro Fiberglass in Tucson and based on my design, they modified the rectangular "outlet" to match my custom one-off air filter shroud so that it is sealed when the hood is closed.

FYI, when the 2007 supersnake was introduced, it's hood "outlet" was completely open and it caused surging at speed. After hearing numerous complaints, Shelby Automotive designed a "plate" with three circular holes cut in it to restrict the airflow, hoping to reduce / eliminate the surging. I know all this for a fact. The rest, I'm not positive, but I think it still caused complaints so Shelby completely sealed the intake and made it non-functional. If there are any SS owners here, I'd like to know if this is true.

Be that as it may, I decided to incorporate an aluminum "ring" around my custom hood opening so that I could bolt on my own plexiglass restrictor plates. My first attempt does not cause any surging whatsoever, so I've not experimented with larger openings in my plates. Maybe someday I will...!

I also installed twist lock hood "pins". Reproduction of the 70 Mach I and 71 Boss 351 design. No lanyarns... just push in and twist. I also had one-off "RAM AIR" decals made...

20180702_142957.jpg
 

Robert M

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I have this hood:

Ford Mustang GT500 Fiberglass Ram Air hood

Fit like a glove and no prepping needed. Just sanding for primer / paint. It's been two years now and still looks like new.

I then took it to Arizona Pro Fiberglass in Tucson and based on my design, they modified the rectangular "outlet" to match my custom one-off air filter shroud so that it is sealed when the hood is closed.

FYI, when the 2007 supersnake was introduced, it's hood "outlet" was completely open and it caused surging at speed. After hearing numerous complaints, Shelby Automotive designed a "plate" with three circular holes cut in it to restrict the airflow, hoping to reduce / eliminate the surging. I know all this for a fact. The rest, I'm not positive, but I think it still caused complaints so Shelby completely sealed the intake and made it non-functional. If there are any SS owners here, I'd like to know if this is true.

Be that as it may, I decided to incorporate an aluminum "ring" around my custom hood opening so that I could bolt on my own plexiglass restrictor plates. My first attempt does not cause any surging whatsoever, so I've not experimented with larger openings in my plates. Maybe someday I will...!

I also installed twist lock hood "pins". Reproduction of the 70 Mach I and 71 Boss 351 design. No lanyarns... just push in and twist. I also had one-off "RAM AIR" decals made...

View attachment 1508699

I have a 2008 Super Snake with the revised hood (after the retrofit plate) and I have never had any issues, I think there are 5 holes over my Kenne Bell intake.

The 2007 did have a large opening above the CAI, and actually it looked very similar to hood shown in post #3 and to the TF GT500KR knock-off hood like you purchased and I also own (a spare KR style hood for my Super Snake). That large opening over the CAI was the issue, too much turbulence, they called it "blowing out the candle".

I tried to find the video on Team Shelby where an owner experience this issue, but it looks like it is gone.

To provide all of the facts on the early Super Snake hood, the one with the large opening like the TF hood and the BM hood shown in post #3 I will add some additional info..........The engine shut down experience only happened when the owner would do a high speed pull all the way to the top end (top speed in high gear) and then push in the clutch and let the engine come down to idle while the car is slowing. At that point, pushing in the clutch at 186mph (3.73 gear), the engine would stall upon deceleration, I watched the video many times when it was still on Team Shelby.

So then we are to the Tru-Fiber hood like you and I own and the Black Mamba hood shown in post #3, both with a large opening in the CAI area just like the original 2007 Super Snake hood......Have these hoods been R&D by their manuf. to the same extent as the owner who pulled his car to the max in top gear in South Florida? or will they do the same "engine stall thing" if an owner were to test their car in the same way, assuming it will pull close to 190mph in top gear with 3.73's?

Most owners have never done such a test, so these aftermarket hoods have not shown the same "possible" fault. Driving/sprinting around town, or pulling a 1/4 mile was not where this "blow out the candle" issue surfaced, it was at the "big end" where everything is a blur.


R
 

Willie

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Thanks for the info Robert. I know that not all had the surging problem, but enough did so that the redesign restricting airflow was necessary.

I can also say that when my underhood rectangular opening, before I modded it to match my air filter housing, did NOT cause any surging. I believe that is because the opening is further towards the windshield than the air filter and as the forced air is introduced into the engine compartment, its velocity causes the air to flow behind the filter and not be forced into it, which is what causes the issue.
 

Robert M

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Thanks for the info Robert. I know that not all had the surging problem, but enough did so that the redesign restricting airflow was necessary.

I can also say that when my underhood rectangular opening, before I modded it to match my air filter housing, did NOT cause any surging. I believe that is because the opening is further towards the windshield than the air filter and as the forced air is introduced into the engine compartment, its velocity causes the air to flow behind the filter and not be forced into it, which is what causes the issue.

Back in 2007 725hp in a GT500 was a huge deal out of a production car, so many Super Snake owners wanted to see if their car was going to live up to their expectations, that is why this surging stalling issue came to light so quickly. Other than the Texas Mile, I have not heard of many (if any) owners who drive their car to a top speed pull to experience the issue(s) that we are discussing.

That TF GT500KR hood that you and I bought, I wanted the different look of the KR hood but I did not order it with the depressions for the twist-locks, my hood is flat in that area and I will be installing plates for use with hood pins, just as on my original Super Snake hood. I like the way you retro'ed in the Mach 1 twist-locks, they are cool, I had them on 3 1971-429 Ram Air Mach 1's that I owned a few years ago.


R
 

Willie

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FYI, when at WOT, the PCM goes open loop and fueling switches to commanded lambda. It does not use the MAF as input, so no surging will occur. Only in closed loop will you experience this issue, light to moderate throttle and steady state is when it's most obvious.

My hood did not have the hood pin depressions. I don't think TruFiber makes them with any more. But just as well. The twist-lock design has a lip and the assembly drops in from the top on a FLAT surface. There is a retainer bracket on the bottom side that holds it in place.
 
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Robert M

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FYI, when at WOT, the PCM goes open loop and fueling switches to commanded lambda. It does not use the MAF as input, so no surging will occur. Only in closed loop will you experience this issue, light to moderate throttle and steady state is when it's most obvious.

My hood did not have the hood pin depressions. I don't think TruFiber makes them with any more. But just as well. The twist-lock design has a lip and the assembly drops in from the top on a FLAT surface. There is a retainer bracket on the bottom side that holds it in place.

The only time I heard about Super Snake owners on Team Shelby complaining was upon deceleration, the car would either stall, or it would stumble when the got back into the gas. <<But all of that was short lived, Shelby had that rivet-in baffle plate made and that ended the issue rather quickly. I have a picture of that plate installed somewhere.

What did you use for the receiver to the twist-lock? I know originally there were plates fastened to the front of the radiator core support on each side to receive the twist-lock post.

R
 

Willie

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The only time I heard about Super Snake owners on Team Shelby complaining was upon deceleration, the car would either stall, or it would stumble when the got back into the gas.

Yep, I forgot to mention deceleration also... definitely closed loop fueling and when air is being "forced" through the MAF and fueling is super low, the PCM tends to gag...

<<But all of that was short lived, Shelby had that rivet-in baffle plate made and that ended the issue rather quickly. I have a picture of that plate installed somewhere.

I seem to remember a plate with multiple cutout circles, arranged in an arc. Riveted, huh? What a solution.... I'll have to take some pics of mine. I incorporated an aluminum perimeter with multiple threaded holes to attach my plexi panels. Each panel has different sized cutouts so I can change them out in minutes.

What did you use for the receiver to the twist-lock? I know originally there were plates fastened to the front of the radiator core support on each side to receive the twist-lock post.

I did not use the supplied receiver plates. Instead, I used 1/10" steel cut on a CNC. They are shaped very similarly to the KR receiver plates but with a hole matched to the twist-lock pins. The plates are bolted to existing threaded holes but required the removal of two rubber bumper stops. To replace these, I use a pair of Ford stops and located them out towards the side front of the hood. I also had to shorten the pins themselves.
 

Robert M

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Willie - Here is the "fix" for the wide open hole issues.....
009-5.jpg


and later the molded-in production version......

0013.jpg


The thing to keep in mind......Any of these ram air hoods that DO NOT have rain/water channeling/ducting are going to drop water over the top of the CAI which will then soak the air filter and be sucked into the engine while driving.

The oem GT500KR hood designers kept this in mind and rain water was ducted away through channeling on the bottom side of the hood......

GT500_KR_Under_Hood.jpg


^^^Problem with this, it takes up space under the hood and does not allow for larger blowers without under hood mods.


R
 

Robert M

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Here is the "rain guard kit" for the bottom of that Tru-Fiber KR style hood.....

014.jpg


^^^These clip to the bottom sides of each heat extractor vent opening and can be removed.

R
 

blowbye

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I have the same hood as willie. Been on my car for 8ish years. Still in excellent condition. Very good quality
 

Robert M

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blue 07

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IMG_1765.JPG IMG_1764.JPG IMG_1826.JPG IMG_1924.jpg IMG_4453.JPG IMG_4465.JPG IMG_4447.JPG IMG_4440.JPG I have a Cervinis hood you are talking about and love it. Changed the look of the front end completely. I would suggest getting it unpainted, depends how anal you are about the finish. I had my body guy paint mine and cut out the underside of the louvers out to make it extract a lot more heat. If you look at the picture below of the cut out louver, the little tiny hole you see on the left is the drip hole for water so it doesn't pool up in the louver. The cutout next to it is where my body guy cut. Don't waste your money on the stripe kit they have available, different texture and slightly different color than the white stripes from the factory ( I had my stripes painted on ). The first one shipped had a crack in it , check the condition while the freight carrier is there. If you don't inspect it, you own it ! Big stickers on the box to inspect it before they leave. Made a call to Cervinis and the shipped out a new one immediately by a different carrier. New one came in perfect. Here are some pics, I have plenty more but to big to download on the site ?!! I also have a Cervinis hood on my 07 GT as well.
 

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