Rear suspension upgrades

Guys after my pulley swap I've definitely seen the need for more traction in the rear. I'm looking at non adjustable upper control arms, single adjustable lower control arms, adjustable panhard bar, and lca drop brackets. I started looking at BMR products and wanted to know if their was a consensus on which company is best for suspenstion parts?


Edit. This is a 98% daily driven street car. I may take it to the drag strip or road course once just to say I did it. Running street tires and will never have a slick and more than likely never have a drag radial.
Thanks

I don't think you can go wrong either way. That said, I run BMR everything and they are running a nice 15% off Black Friday sale on all their parts.

As long as its a name brand -- you should be fine. BMR just seems like the better bargain. Also, they are on sale. IF i were to do it over -- I would get a Watts system

samshady said:

Guys after my pulley swap I've definitely seen the need for more traction in the rear. I'm looking at non adjustable upper control arms, single adjustable lower control arms, adjustable panhard bar, and lca drop brackets. I started looking at BMR products and wanted to know if their was a consensus on which company is best for suspenstion parts?

Thanks

Click to expand...

For the UCA choice, are you 2007-2010 or 2011-2014?

I have had the longer/more robust 2011-2014 in my 2008 for about 4 years with no issues.

Ford lengthened the Upper Control Arm for better axle swing geometry and also upsized the bushing and attaching hardware. <<<These same upgrades are found in the BMR UCA.

The two adj. BMR's shown side-by-side below.........



These also come in non-adjustable.




R

There are no magic bullets when it comes to harnessing too much power. However, many of the components from the aftermarket will make the car feel a bit more controlled. I think you're far ahead of the game if you don't mix and match manufacturer's parts.

Robert M said:

For the UCA choice, are you 2007-2010 or 2011-2014?

I have had the longer/more robust 2011-2014 in my 2008 for about 4 years with no issues.

Ford lengthened the Upper Control Arm for better axle swing geometry and also upsized the bushing and attaching hardware. <<<These same upgrades are found in the BMR UCA.

The two adj. BMR's shown side-by-side below.........

View attachment 1530457

These also come in non-adjustable.




R

Click to expand...

I've got a 2012 and plan on doing non adjustable uppers and adjustable lowers.

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Catmonkey said:

There are no magic bullets when it comes to harnessing too much power. However, many of the components from the aftermarket will make the car feel a bit more controlled. I think you're far ahead of the game if you don't mix and match manufacturer's parts.

Click to expand...

Car had non adjustable Steeda lowers when I bought it. After talking to the shop doing the work they recommend doing adjustable lowers and non adjustable uppers rather than adding adjustable uppers now. I do want all that shiny hammer tone black underneath too.

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If you're going to lower the car then its a good idea to have adjustable upper to correct pinion angel. Also, LCA relo bracket is for lowered cars, if you're not lowered now don't install them.

I don't see why you'd need adjustable LCA, I think its better to stay with what you have.

samshady said:

I've got a 2012 and plan on doing non adjustable uppers and adjustable lowers.

Sent from my SM-G955U using the svtperformance.com mobile app

Click to expand...

The upper is one arm so it will not be "uppers". The primary reason for the adjustable upper is for pinion angle adjustment, if you are going to leave your car at the stock/oem Ford ride height in the rear, there is no reason to adjust. If you are going to lower the car, that is when adjustable can come into the equation. <<And at that point, a panhard bar will also be needed to center the axle under the car once the body is lowered.

R

^ to Robert M's post. I had a stock everything 2011. I only changed my factory wheels and put the Alcoas on and plain as day, the rear axle was not centered. one wheel was wayyyyyy sticking out.

OP, don't mix and match companies. If you plan on making more than stock power, than maybe soon a 1 piece drivehaft will be an idea? I say that will allow for pinion angle adjustment.

FWIW, I went with Team Z Adj Upper and lowers, Adj Panhard and no relocation brackets. Eibach Pro Springs, 1 Pc D/S. I would rather have the adjustability and not need it, than to need it and not have it. My alignment guy was appreciative too.

I'm a street car