Those of us that actually use it and are not just speculating will tell you different.
01 cobra suspension
- Thread starter themarmot
- Start date
Those of us that actually use it and are not just speculating will tell you different.
Again:
H&R race springs with koni SA sport or bilstein B8 sport strut/shocks and Eibach REAR sway bar (only) is a great combo.
Note; Bilstein B8's and H&R race springs with the eibach rear sway bar is virtually the same combo as the 2000R setup.
This is for the Newedge cobras, which have less nose weigh.
The oem front swaybar is fine for them.
I'm dropping my tank to replace the fuel pump and the Eibach swaybar is going in then.
My car is a daily driver.
Edit:
IMO these four sites have become required reading for IRS folks
SVTP:
https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/the-irs-tech-article.213384/
FTBR:
IRS Informational Article
As mentioned by the owner jrgoffin:
Suspension
Taz:
Taz's Home Page
H&R race springs with koni SA sport or bilstein B8 sport strut/shocks and Eibach REAR sway bar (only) is a great combo.
Note; Bilstein B8's and H&R race springs with the eibach rear sway bar is virtually the same combo as the 2000R setup.
This is for the Newedge cobras, which have less nose weigh.
The oem front swaybar is fine for them.
I'm dropping my tank to replace the fuel pump and the Eibach swaybar is going in then.
My car is a daily driver.
Edit:
IMO these four sites have become required reading for IRS folks
SVTP:
https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/the-irs-tech-article.213384/
FTBR:
IRS Informational Article
As mentioned by the owner jrgoffin:
Suspension
Taz:
Taz's Home Page
Last edited:
I guess you didnt read my post #17, I have and use the Eibach rear sway bar, so Im not just speculating. For me the Eibach is not stiff enough and I do have doubts as to if it is any better than stock or the R bar, especiallly because on a lowered car you cant use the Eibach stiffer second hole. People need to read all the post in a thread before they make foolish, misinformed and sarcastic statements, but then you always have a few on car forums with an M.O. of being a know it all and sarcastic, it makes them feel good about them selves.---- The Eibach looks good which is not the same as being good.----Wish someone else made bars for the I.R.S.
Last edited:
When I was into handling with my car I did a “budget” kit. H&R race springs with low mile 03 bilsteins, I tried the eibach bars and it felt worse to me than stock I remember Carlos several years ago said he did the eibach rear with the steeda 35mm front sway bar and it was better. But for me the bushings made the biggest difference.
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Well I'm gong to try it...maybe I won't notice It with mine being a daily CAR..
I think Bruce of FTBR fame used it and liked it, but he used COs that were something like 450/550...I seem to recall that his was a 2000R.
The rear eibach bar has a pretty good following...I just want the car to snap around a bit better on quick turns into my driveway;-).
Last edited:
Right - I have so little practical experience to offer, especially when it comes to the contents of this thread. And yes, I did read your previous post, but since this ended up on another page, my comment was meant for those that may not bother to do anything other than read the last page or last few comments. Whatever.
First, the inference that you cannot use the inner end-link holes is not completely correct: it depends on the half-shafts as well as the links themselves. Those that may search might just find that MM updated theirs with a smaller round body for this exact reason. I'd even surmise that Eibach did their homework and wouldn't have put them there for no reason whatsoever.
Second, the Eibach bar of course is stiffer since it is larger - doesn't matter if it is hollow (If a bar of the same size was solid, it would obviously be even stiffer). Sucks that you think it is a waste, but it has a large following that would state otherwise. Your combo probably doesn't work thanks to the mismatch of the higher rate springs in front along with those cut OE springs in the back - completely opposite of what is needed if you want to stiffen the rear and cut the under-steer. Then again, maybe all you care about is just ride height merely so it can look cool. But heck, what do I know.
Well it wasnt about what you know and your knowledge, just the know it all sarcasm,
Ah yes I was waiting for the mismatched comment----The H&R sports are progressive so they give a soft ride at beginning of travel and from what I can tell the cut oem rears which are linear are a little stiffer, and it works for me, it actually seems to be a good balance and it gives me mostly neutral steer going through the twistys. I called Ebach a month ago abouI the second hole thing and the links, they told me the bar was made for stock ride heighth along with the longer and skinny factory links. If the new M M links will work without changing the axles I will be buying them. I will track or auto cross only occasionally so yes the ride and looks are still important to me and my wife. You misquoted me, I didnt say the Eibach bar is a waste, I said I have some doubts about it, If I thought it was a waste it would not be on my car. A slightly smaller bar that is solid would be stiffer, so if the stock or R bar is solid they could be stiffer than the Eibach. Of course on a hollow bar there are other factors like how thick of material and what the kind of pipe or metal was used.
There is more than one way to skin a cat and I always try to give and take different points of view without being a know it all and/or sarcastic, there is always something even the most experienced can consider or learn, Im a long time experienced car guy and racer but Im always open to other points of view when given in a friendly manner.
Ah yes I was waiting for the mismatched comment----The H&R sports are progressive so they give a soft ride at beginning of travel and from what I can tell the cut oem rears which are linear are a little stiffer, and it works for me, it actually seems to be a good balance and it gives me mostly neutral steer going through the twistys. I called Ebach a month ago abouI the second hole thing and the links, they told me the bar was made for stock ride heighth along with the longer and skinny factory links. If the new M M links will work without changing the axles I will be buying them. I will track or auto cross only occasionally so yes the ride and looks are still important to me and my wife. You misquoted me, I didnt say the Eibach bar is a waste, I said I have some doubts about it, If I thought it was a waste it would not be on my car. A slightly smaller bar that is solid would be stiffer, so if the stock or R bar is solid they could be stiffer than the Eibach. Of course on a hollow bar there are other factors like how thick of material and what the kind of pipe or metal was used.
There is more than one way to skin a cat and I always try to give and take different points of view without being a know it all and/or sarcastic, there is always something even the most experienced can consider or learn, Im a long time experienced car guy and racer but Im always open to other points of view when given in a friendly manner.
Last edited:
I’ve had the Eibach springs on my ‘99 Cobra almost since the car was new. They work great on the track or daily driven.
Have the Koni adjustable Yellow shocks all around. They also work great. The car has over 60,000 miles and I have no complaints.
BTW: Still have the stock sway bars front & rear. But added poly bushings to help a bit.
I would highly recommend this as well. I did my IRS bushing, diff mount, UCA and LCA bushings. I fair bit of work, but totally worth it. I also installed a Terminator IRS front brace that includes the mounts to the diff as well.
I went Maximum Motorsports CO front and rear with Koni SA shocks/struts. Amazing ride, not overly harsh and it sticks amazing.
I went Maximum Motorsports CO front and rear with Koni SA shocks/struts. Amazing ride, not overly harsh and it sticks amazing.
Agree. I replaced my IRS subframe bushings as well as the diff bushings (front & rear) to include the IRS front brace (Paul’s).
I didn’t do the rear upper & lower control arm bushings. But I did replace the front lower control arm bushings with Steeda’s as well as their lower ball joint.
There is a lot of rubber in that rear suspension. The more you remove, the better it handles.
I didn’t do the rear upper & lower control arm bushings. But I did replace the front lower control arm bushings with Steeda’s as well as their lower ball joint.
There is a lot of rubber in that rear suspension. The more you remove, the better it handles.
I had the same problem with my Eibach bar. Old design MM links, hitting the 1/2 shafts in the stiff position when the suspension unloaded. They changed the design to a slimmer body.
However, I will personally never spend a single cent on MM stuff again, I went and bought the ones from FTBR (since I already have their complete bushing kit) which work and clear the 1/2 shafts no problem in the stiff position.
Really glad that works for you, I recently switched to the FTB links but they no way would work on the second hole for me and the M an Ms to me dont look like they will work either so Im waiting to see if anyone has had success with them on the Eibach 2nd hole. what half shafts do you have?
Stock 03-04 shafts .
There is another company that makes adjustable sway bar links. Power Grid . A little pricey but they do use OEM style THK ball stud ends .
I have no idea the endlinks I have, they came with my IRS along with a BEEFY rear sway bar. They fit but I still have the 99 axles in the car because I am only making 300hp and have street tires lol.
Prothane subframe bushings
FTBR UCA bushings
FTBR LCA busings
Prothane front diff mounts
FTBR rear diff mount
FTBR cross axis links
Aftermarket swaybar endlinks and swaybar (still don't know brand)
Next step is an Eaton diff, 4.10s, Termi axles, Konis all around, HR race springs all around, UPR K with perches, BMR A arms, UPR bumpsteer kit and hopefully that'll make the car feel like its on rails. Front suspension is completely shot right now and its got mismatched springs/shocks/struts because I had 3 months to get the car together to be shipped overseas and the engine was also not in the car at the time haha. Military orders.
Prothane subframe bushings
FTBR UCA bushings
FTBR LCA busings
Prothane front diff mounts
FTBR rear diff mount
FTBR cross axis links
Aftermarket swaybar endlinks and swaybar (still don't know brand)
Next step is an Eaton diff, 4.10s, Termi axles, Konis all around, HR race springs all around, UPR K with perches, BMR A arms, UPR bumpsteer kit and hopefully that'll make the car feel like its on rails. Front suspension is completely shot right now and its got mismatched springs/shocks/struts because I had 3 months to get the car together to be shipped overseas and the engine was also not in the car at the time haha. Military orders.
Users who are viewing this thread
