Its been awhile but here are my most recent mods

311-420 said:

They make more torque because the belt isn't slipping..

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It's not that simple. You WILL see a difference in torque when you produce the same amount of boost with a larger crank pulley combo. When a larger lower pulley is added, the ratio of drive and driven pulley is changed. Early on the majority of people stuck with smaller upper pullies because they're easy to install/swap out. But as people started searching for every ounce of power/torque they saw how beneficial a larger crank pulley was. So now it is very common to see upper/lower combos. The 2.93 upper with a 4 lb. lower is very popular, for example. I'm not an expert on this. But we've seen a lot of discussions over the years on this subject.

CobraBob said:

It's not that simple. You WILL see a difference in torque when you produce the same amount of boost with a larger crank pulley combo. When a larger lower pulley is added, the ratio of drive and driven pulley is changed. Early on the majority of people stuck with smaller upper pullies because they're easy to install/swap out. But as people started searching for every ounce of power/torque they saw how beneficial a larger crank pulley was. So now it is very common to see upper/lower combos. The 2.93 upper with a 4 lb. lower is very popular, for example. I'm not an expert on this. But we've seen a lot of discussions over the years on this subject.

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I'm aware of that, and that's what my post was regarding.

The eaton, like the other blowers, will make only a certain amount of useful boost before it's just making heat. The goal is to make the most amount of useful boost the blower is capable of making by turning the blower only as fast as absolutely necessary. Choosing the correct combination is the key.

The advantage of going with an upper/lower combination is that with a slightly larger upper (like the 2.9 you've mentioned) combined with a lower (like the 4lb) the system now has more available belt wrap from the larger diameter lower pulley and larger diameter upper pulley. More belt wrap is what yields the reduced belt slip that OP was praising and allows the blower to be spun more effectively. That's where the additional torque is found.

In the middle of installing a battery cut off. And page 1 was very helpful.

Pretty much copying your design, cause I have no imagination. Thanks

ShootyMCstabby said:

In the middle of installing a battery cut off. And page 1 was very helpful.

Pretty much copying your design, cause I have no imagination. Thanks

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Glad it helped out. Adding a metal plate to the composite trunk lid really stiffened up the lever.


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I finally made alittle progress. I picked up a ARP bolt instead of the provided innovators west metric bolt.
To note, ARP's tq spec for this is 98 ftlbs (stock is 90ft lbs) and dont forget to add ARP lube!

It is an ARP M2-1.50 x 60 mm hex flange 8740 Chrome Moly bolt I picked up from allensfastners.com. I paid $11 shipped for it.


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Next up is the Whipple crusher intake finally came in. I picked up a GT500 slot stlye maf and harness adapter.

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I picked up a cheap and ugly rubber 5" elbow for the intake to TB. I also picked up a silicone elbow for a steal. They are 100+ if you look around!

Everything pictured here.

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More parts are on the way for 2019 max effort!

Nice!! Dont forget u can wire in the the IAT1 sensor from the GT500 MAF so no extra holes in ur intake.

whitedevil95 said:

Nice!! Dont forget u can wire in the the IAT1 sensor from the GT500 MAF so no extra holes in ur intake.

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Never heard his one before. How accurate is it compared to the OEM sensor? More details please!


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SVT_Troy said:

Never heard his one before. How accurate is it compared to the OEM sensor? More details please!


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Seems to be just as accurate as stock. The newer cars all use integrated temp sensors in the mafs. As youll see your stock MAF plug only has 4 wires while the GT500 mAF has 6. The outer two wires are for the temp sensor. I cut off my stock IAT 1 sensor plug and wired those two wires into the the two wires from my maf adapter harness.

whitedevil95 said:

Seems to be just as accurate as stock. The newer cars all use integrated temp sensors in the mafs. As youll see your stock MAF plug only has 4 wires while the GT500 mAF has 6. The outer two wires are for the temp sensor. I cut off my stock IAT 1 sensor plug and wired those two wires into the the two wires from my maf adapter harness.

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Sounds easy enough. Recall which one was +\- ?


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When i get home this afternoon ill post a pic

whitedevil95 said:

When i get home this afternoon ill post a pic

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Just looked at it. Took about 40 seconds to figure out. The new harness matched all the colors. I’ll just unravel both stock harnesses, install pins in the MAF connector and re-wrap for a stock like appearance. I’ll snap a few pics as I’m doing it for others.


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Dropped 32lbs today. I opted for the PC680 with the metal jacket which has higher temp and vibration resistance.

I havent officially started shedding weight but my XS power battery failed and needs to be sent back. I decided to take advantage and shed some weight. I'm going to use the replacement XS power battery in my other project car which has a sound system.

XS Power D3400 47.5 lbs
Odyssey PC680MJ 15.5 lbs

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Is that gonna be enough to start your Cobra??? Its listed as 170 CCA, sounds kinda low but dang its light weight.

*Jay* said:

Is that gonna be enough to start your Cobra???

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It will work fine.

--Joe

Odyssey are great batteries lots of airplane guys use them (a friend of mine has just 1 that gets shuttled from airplane-to-airplane). They hold a charge "forever". This one looks a little on the small side. Troy hope your engine "lights" on the fist few attempts. I think this one will give-up the ghost pretty quickly.

I've been running a Scorpion lithium "iron" (not "ion") in my Suzuki DR-650 for over a year now and so far with good results. The factory wet cell weighed 7 lbs, the Scorpion weighed 2! If the wiring for a truck mounted battery starts to approach the weight of the battery itself then for me the battery ends-up in the engine compartment.

*Jay* said:

Is that gonna be enough to start your Cobra??? Its listed as 170 CCA, sounds kinda low but dang its light weight.

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I ran the PC680 for years mounted to my intercooler but kept my car on a tender. If you car has issues starting then you can have issues with this battery. Otherwise it does great. I ended up pulling it this past build and put a full size battery in the trunk.

SlowSVT said:

Odyssey are great batteries lots of airplane guys use them (a friend of mine has just 1 that gets shuttled from airplane-to-airplane). They hold a charge "forever". This one looks a little on the small side. Troy hope your engine "lights" on the fist few attempts. I think this one will give-up the ghost pretty quickly.

I've been running a Scorpion lithium "iron" (not "ion") in my Suzuki DR-650 for over a year now and so far with good results. The factory wet cell weighed 7 lbs, the Scorpion weighed 2! If the wiring for a truck mounted battery starts to approach the weight of the battery itself then for me the battery ends-up in the engine compartment.

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Russ,

Long time, I’ve been waiting to see some progress on your car for awhile now?

Unfortunately the lightweight battery was an afterthought and I’m betting my wiring for the trunk mount probably now exceeds the new lightweight battery. No biggie though, if this lightweight battery doesn’t work out i go to a larger more capable unit. I’ve always been a streetcar first, I’ve been leaning more and more to the dark side of drag racing reversing old mods and thought processes.

GodStang said:

I ran the PC680 for years mounted to my intercooler but kept my car on a tender. If you car has issues starting then you can have issues with this battery. Otherwise it does great. I ended up pulling it this past build and put a full size battery in the trunk.

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I’ve had no issues whatsoever in the past with starting. I believe I properly sized my battery and ground cables for the trunk mount. Just hoping the PC680 has enough juice. I’ll find out in about a month or so when I’m ready to crank her over.

My car will stay on a battery maintainer set to the low amp AGM setting.






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SVT_Troy said:

Russ,

Long time, I’ve been waiting to see some progress on your car for awhile now?

Unfortunately the lightweight battery was an afterthought and I’m betting my wiring for the trunk mount probably now exceeds the new lightweight battery. No biggie though, if this lightweight battery doesn’t work out i go to a larger more capable unit. I’ve always been a streetcar first, I’ve been leaning more and more to the dark side of drag racing reversing old mods and thought processes.

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Troy, I've been playing with other toys and haven't done much with the Cobra in the last 2 years but that is soon going to change. I spent time building what has now morphed into a Supermoto bike but it's now finished and having a blast with it.

I cut that oil pan the welder warped so badly at the last minute not being supervised in half and milled away the flange ............ that was painful! Now it's ready to get re-leveled and welded back together. The custom door sills need putty and sanding to get all the tiny bubbles and imperfections out before I can paint them to get them looking factory. My priority though is getting the fuel lines and dash assembly installed. I now have access to a 3D printer that shoots ABS and urethane rubber which has proven to be handy everything in this car has completely changed yet I don't want it to look that way! ......... buko hours

That smallish battery is great for racing but I'd be a little nervous relying on it when your going places in the car. It's an easy swap and you can shed a fair amount of weight when you wanna play.

Great build thread!

whitedevil95 said:

Seems to be just as accurate as stock. The newer cars all use integrated temp sensors in the mafs. As youll see your stock MAF plug only has 4 wires while the GT500 mAF has 6. The outer two wires are for the temp sensor. I cut off my stock IAT 1 sensor plug and wired those two wires into the the two wires from my maf adapter harness.

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Well thanks to your post I integrated the AIT sensor with the new GT500 slot style MAF.

I purchased an OEM connector and just removed the pins from the AIT sensor and plugged them directly into the new OEM connector. No splicing or cutting of wires required.

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Crappy pic but all pinned up in the new connector with the new Lethal Performance provided harness adapter. With this harness adapter the wires are correctly color coded so adding the AIT wires to the 6 pine connector is self explanatory.

For my battery I needed to make a mount inside my battery box to secure it. I decided to mill out a piece of wood instead of aluminum for weight savings plus no-one will see it inside the battery box. Measure cut and I milled the slot out so the battery fit perfectly.

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I painted the piece of wood just because and fabbed up a mount out of aluminum to hold the top down. Nothing to pretty but it will get the job done.

I chose to do this versus remove the box in case the lightweight battery doesn't work as well as I expect and I want to switch back to a full size. It will be an easy swap.

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