Any car audio nuts in here?

Silver Talon

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Putting some new hardware into my 2011 F-150 Larriat Limited that has the Sony audio and Nav. Since I'm keeping the Nav, and sync and as much of the other factory options as I can, I've got some work ahead of me.

The Plan:
I've ordered the PAC AP4-FD11 system with the extra harnesses for the amplified signal from the amps to connect back into the factory harness. This lets me create good quality signals to the new amps, and not have to hack into anything for factory wiring.

Ill be throwing some nice Infinity Kappa speakers at all the doors, and something for paper tweeters too. Ive got a box that SHOULD fit under the rear seat, that came out from behind my 11 F-250 rear seats. It has two JL 13TW5 shallow subs in it.

The Problem:
Equalizers. At this point i'm tossed up on what to do about them. Ignore them and let the factory nav unit control it all, with limited ability
 

jeffh81

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I never used equalizers. My setups were tuned off the headunit and the amps handled the crossovers.
 

98slowbra

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In my cobra I had 2-6 1/2 inch boston pros in the door, 2 6 1/2 boston pros in front side panels with 2 boston pro tweeters, 2-12 inch kicker comp subs in the trunk, Alpine deck, pioneer digital sound processor, 5 farad cap in trunk and 2 PPI amps in the trunk running at 2 ohms, 140 amp circuit breaker, 150 amp alternator. Trunk was all custom fiberglass, so I was into car stereo huge until I sold the cobra. The Digital sound processor did all the crossover and you could control what speakers were on and how much fade went to each speaker what kind of sound like jazz, rock, stadium and a ton more, that was a head unit, I think it was pioneer 7600 but that was very long ago and you controlled everything from the DSP like volume and everything. I found Alpine makes one, here is the link to it, does not look to bad
Alpine RUX-C800
Here is the one I used that is still out and has more options then the Alpine I think
DEQ-7600 - Customize your Music & Songs with the Universal Digital Equalizer

you will need a deck with the DSP, you set the deck at like 20 if max volume is 30 and then control the volume with the DSP on the pioneer, if you want louder up the volume on the DSP if you want it way louder up the volume on the deck then the DSP, but your main volume is on the DSP now and not the deck.
 
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Coiled03

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I wouldn't even worry about EQs unless you're building a fancy system. They provide more flexibility than you'll ever need if you're not doing anything exotic.
 

mysticsvt

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Running an LC7i in my F150 with two amps, JL CW3's from and back and 2 10" subs in a Fox Box. Sounds Amazing.
 

Lemmiwinks

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If anything instead of EQ you should use processing units, like the Audison Bit One, which was big when I used to deal with car audio.
But I've been away from it for 5 years now so what's good today might not be the same.

I used to have a pretty fancy system in my Lincoln in which I never used any EQ or even sound processing unit.

Front: DD 6.5's in the door, DD tweeter in the A-pillar.
Subs: 4x DD 0815 (think that was the name?) up through the rear deck (with the ports aswell).

Amps: DD TA2 for the tweeters (tube hybrid amp, one of the very few ever existed), DD A3 for the 6.5 mids.
2x Mosconi 300.2 for the subs.


It was "pretty" wild to say the least.
 

Silver Talon

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So unfortunately most of my post didn't come through for some reason. So ill post the rest of my dilemma.

The PAC is going to take 6 speaker channels and turn them into 4, meaning when I send the signal back to the tweeters, Ill need to cut their signal down so as to not cause distortion. I'm assuming I can just put a crossover in line to the tweeters so that they don't see a full signal range? Or should I start running eq's to tweak what they are seeing? Ill have to run the front speakers bridged to the tweeters, as I don't think I'll have a room for a third amp, to just power one of the pairs of speakers. I hate to mess with the ohm load, but I don't think ill have a choice. I have a 4 channel for the speakers, and a mono block for the subs.

If I go EQ, It looks like I'll have to run one for the front, and one for the rear, as everything I've seen has only had a single input to it. Nothing with front and rear inputs. That's a good bit extra $$$ and a bit more wiring and mounting work than id like to tackle. But if it makes sense to do it now, that ill do it now.

Thanks for the advice so far guys!
 

98slowbra

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The DSP I sent you has like 3 inputs not 1, got this right from the site
  • RCA Outputsx3 Pair (Front/Rear & Subwoofer)
  • Spectrum Analyzer15 Band (5-Mode, 6-Mode with Subwoofer Added)
  • Sub-Out Crossover(50/80/125Hz, - 18dB/Oct.)
  • You got output to the sub amp
  • you go output to the rear amp
  • you go out to the front amp
  • you go input from the deck
  • all through RCA
  • you dont have to use all 3, I only used 2 on the Pioneer DSP
 

Deceptive

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Just a personal opinion, I’d chose something other than Infinity Kappas.

I have had them and while they were a lot better than factory, they lack in places that I feel they need a little more depth. My biggest gripe was mid bass. They were easily overwhelmed.

I ditched them for Morel Tempo Ultras.


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Coiled03

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The PAC is going to take 6 speaker channels and turn them into 4, meaning when I send the signal back to the tweeters, Ill need to cut their signal down so as to not cause distortion. I'm assuming I can just put a crossover in line to the tweeters so that they don't see a full signal range?

Most quality separate component sets I've encountered have built in passive crossovers between the woofers and tweeters.. You shouldn't have to wire anything.

Ill have to run the front speakers bridged to the tweeters, as I don't think I'll have a room for a third amp

Why would you need a third amp? Get one to power the subs, and one to power everything else.

I have a 4 channel for the speakers, and a mono block for the subs.

So, again, why would you need a third amp?

I'll admit I've been out of this game for awhile. But unless hardware has changed drastically, or I'm not understanding what you're trying to do, it sounds to me like you're making this much harder than it needs to be.

1) 1 amp to power the subs.
2) 1 amp to power the components.
3) Get a separate component set with built in passive crossovers for the front.
4) One electronic crossover with one input from the deck, and two outputs for the separate amps.
 

Silver Talon

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Most quality separate component sets I've encountered have built in passive crossovers between the woofers and tweeters.. You shouldn't have to wire anything.



Why would you need a third amp? Get one to power the subs, and one to power everything else.



So, again, why would you need a third amp?

I'll admit I've been out of this game for awhile. But unless hardware has changed drastically, or I'm not understanding what you're trying to do, it sounds to me like you're making this much harder than it needs to be.

1) 1 amp to power the subs.
2) 1 amp to power the components.
3) Get a separate component set with built in passive crossovers for the front.
4) One electronic crossover with one input from the deck, and two outputs for the separate amps.

Component speakers come with a crossover of sorts to separate the tweeter and main driver of the set. You have one input from your amp, and two outputs, one for tweeter and driver. A coaxial speaker would have a passive crossover as the tweeter and driver are one unit.

On the 3rd amp thing, its something I had in my main post that I didnt elaborate on my second post. The ohms start getting funky when you start bridging speakers together. I'll end up with a 2 ohm load on the rear channel, but something different in the front. I've got I believe dual 2 ohm kappa for the front, and I believe single 4 ohm tweeters too. I'd have to get my old math homework out to figure what those end up being, but I know it wont be 2 ohm. Generally you want all channels of the amp to see the same ohm load to keep power levels and distortion in check. Most amps start losing efficiency and wattage at higher ohm loads as well, so I'm trying to avoid over taxing my amps, due to a poor design on my end.

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98 svt

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Why are you using coaxial AND a separate tweet up front?
Buy a component set, run it to 2 channels on the 4 channel amp.
Run rear coaxials off the the other 2 amp channels.
 

Silver Talon

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Why are you using coaxial AND a separate tweet up front?
Buy a component set, run it to 2 channels on the 4 channel amp.
Run rear coaxials off the the other 2 amp channels.

The Sony equipped stereo's run a 8 speaker setup including the sub. One center 3.5 inch speaker, 2 front tweeters, 2 front speakers, 2 rear speakers, and the sub.

So I'll be leaving the center speaker out of the equation, but there is no point in leaving the tweeters out where they are in a pretty good spot for the sound stage already.

The coaxials are something that are very nice, I have already, and have a built in switch to reduce the power to the tweeter. This softens their sound, and helps keeps that tweeter from becoming shrill and overpowering things at high volume level. The driver itself is pretty good until you get deep into the mid bass, but the shallow mount JL's do a really good job of filling in that lower mid bass range, so its not much concern there. I'd love to run some nice 8 inch drivers in the center console for mid bass, but that's just not feasible right now.

I guess I should go dig up the specs on all the speakers, and run the crossover to all 4 front speakers, and just do the math and see where it comes out. I'm afraid of having like a 9.33 ohm load in the front, and 2 in the back. If its within and ohm or two, maybe I'm way over thinking things. I guess I just prefer to have a plan first before I go in, but I've been struggling to make this all make sense for some reason.
 

jaxbusa

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I am not familiar with your truck, but could the center speaker be only for gps navigation and not for the radio? I think the easiest thing would be to use components for the front. That way you use one amp channel to an external crossover that splits it to the door speaker and tweeter in the pillar. I would then use coaxial for the rear speakers.
This allows you to use one 4 channel amp and not worry about ohms. It also keeps the dsp at 6 channels with your two subs.




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Silver Talon

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I am not familiar with your truck, but could the center speaker be only for gps navigation and not for the radio? I think the easiest thing would be to use components for the front. That way you use one amp channel to an external crossover that splits it to the door speaker and tweeter in the pillar. I would then use coaxial for the rear speakers.
This allows you to use one 4 channel amp and not worry about ohms. It also keeps the dsp at 6 channels with your two subs.

I think ill just put the crossover in line to both speakers anyway. That would cut the tweeter out of the main door driver, leave the main tweeters to what they do best, and level out my ohm load for the front channels, or at least close with the rear. Center speaker is part of fords genius idea to help with the sound stage, so it plays everything.




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See previous post of mine. It wont matter if I run the cross over to both the driver and tweeter.
 

98 svt

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The Sony equipped stereo's run a 8 speaker setup including the sub. One center 3.5 inch speaker, 2 front tweeters, 2 front speakers, 2 rear speakers, and the sub.

So I'll be leaving the center speaker out of the equation, but there is no point in leaving the tweeters out where they are in a pretty good spot for the sound stage already.

The coaxials are something that are very nice, I have already, and have a built in switch to reduce the power to the tweeter. This softens their sound, and helps keeps that tweeter from becoming shrill and overpowering things at high volume level. The driver itself is pretty good until you get deep into the mid bass, but the shallow mount JL's do a really good job of filling in that lower mid bass range, so its not much concern there. I'd love to run some nice 8 inch drivers in the center console for mid bass, but that's just not feasible right now.

I guess I should go dig up the specs on all the speakers, and run the crossover to all 4 front speakers, and just do the math and see where it comes out. I'm afraid of having like a 9.33 ohm load in the front, and 2 in the back. If its within and ohm or two, maybe I'm way over thinking things. I guess I just prefer to have a plan first before I go in, but I've been struggling to make this all make sense for some reason.


Step 1: Remove front OEM tweeters/speakers

Step 2: Install component set in empty spaces that were once occupied by speakers from step 1.

Step 3: Use 2 channels of your 4 channel amp to run component speakers from step 2.


Components are superior to coaxials. If you are going through all the trouble, dont half-ass it.
Put the coaxials out back, if that is an option.
 

roadracer247

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Anyone have any recommendations for upgrading my DD’s stereo? It’s a ‘11 Accord sedan EX-L. So it’s got the “upgraded” stereo option w/ Nav. I’d love a better sounding system. I don’t want lots of bass. I’m not 17 anymore. Just a well balanced system that sounds great when I turn it up. It’s a shame how most aftermarket head units look like ass...
 

Coiled03

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Anyone have any recommendations for upgrading my DD’s stereo? It’s a ‘11 Accord sedan EX-L. So it’s got the “upgraded” stereo option w/ Nav. I’d love a better sounding system. I don’t want lots of bass. I’m not 17 anymore. Just a well balanced system that sounds great when I turn it up. It’s a shame how most aftermarket head units look like ass...

Replacing the speakers will improve the sound much more than replacing the deck.
 

98 svt

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Anyone have any recommendations for upgrading my DD’s stereo? It’s a ‘11 Accord sedan EX-L. So it’s got the “upgraded” stereo option w/ Nav. I’d love a better sounding system. I don’t want lots of bass. I’m not 17 anymore. Just a well balanced system that sounds great when I turn it up. It’s a shame how most aftermarket head units look like ass...


The Kenwood DNX units are great. I have them in 2 vehicles.
 

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