Q & A Session... - Ask a Ford Dealer

Yeah, I like that advice. I'm going to call my salesman on Monday morning and unless they located THE same vehicle by Monday morning (and flatbed it), they will need to order it new from the factory. I do prefer new from factory for sure. I don't mind waiting 6-8 weeks.

Hi Nick, can you explain Ford selling parts designated with a "CP" suffix? I understand them to be "Collision Parts", or what some call "Crash Parts". Do you know if other manufacturers do the same?

Lambeau said:

Hi Nick, can you explain Ford selling parts designated with a "CP" suffix? I understand them to be "Collision Parts", or what some call "Crash Parts". Do you know if other manufacturers do the same?

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C denotes Chassis
P denotes Automatic transmission
Parts that start with 4 digits XXXX-blah blah denote the part is made in the NAFTA region

VRYALT3R3D said:

C denotes Chassis
P denotes Automatic transmission
Parts that start with 4 digits XXXX-blah blah denote the part is made in the NAFTA region

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Thanks, sorry I should make myself clear.
This is what I'm referring to:
For 2012 F-150, VIN 1FTFX1EF2CKE35068
Mirror Outside - FORD
Part is listed as:
BL3Z-17683-BA
I was quoted by a Ford dealer:
BL3Z-17683-BACP

I asked what the CP suffix was, and they said Collision/Crash Part.
I was also told some dealers sell CP parts, some don't.
Not sure if that was BS or not, that's why I'm asking.

EDIT: I also need to mention that the Parts person also said this is a reference to body parts, not parts like alternators, starters, etc. that Ford already sells as "Remanufactured". I bought those before, no issues...

Lambeau said:

Thanks, sorry I should make myself clear.
This is what I'm referring to:
For 2012 F-150, VIN 1FTFX1EF2CKE35068
Mirror Outside - FORD
Part is listed as:
BL3Z-17683-BA
I was quoted by a Ford dealer:
BL3Z-17683-BACP

I asked what the CP suffix was, and they said Collision/Crash Part.
I was also told some dealers sell CP parts, some don't.
Not sure if that was BS or not, that's why I'm asking.

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It could be a revised part and CP marks that distinction.

A CP is a Crash Part, also called Collision Program. Basically you have to buy it by the truckload. So you can't just order one of those, you have to order 10, along with numerous other Crash Parts. Very few dealers have the room for that kind of storage. FWIW a lot of ford body parts have very little markup. For an example if I give a 20% wholesale discount on certain body parts, I would be selling it at less than my cost from Ford. Also Ford has a new program where parts departments can have "fluid pricing" for body shops where we can pick our own list price to compete with other departments.

I also do Mazda parts and they do not have such a program.

bdcardinal said:

A CP is a Crash Part, also called Collision Program. Basically you have to buy it by the truckload. So you can't just order one of those, you have to order 10, along with numerous other Crash Parts. Very few dealers have the room for that kind of storage. FWIW a lot of ford body parts have very little markup. For an example if I give a 20% wholesale discount on certain body parts, I would be selling it at less than my cost from Ford. Also Ford has a new program where parts departments can have "fluid pricing" for body shops where we can pick our own list price to compete with other departments.

I also do Mazda parts and they do not have such a program.

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- OK, I was only buying one, but the dealer must have purchased a large quantity.
- So what makes a CP part a CP?
- Should the buyer be made aware that its a CP part, like a remanufactured starter?

Lambeau said:

- OK, I was only buying one, but the dealer must have purchased a large quantity.
- So what makes a CP part a CP?
- Should the buyer be made aware that its a CP part, like a remanufactured starter?

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Just means it came off of a truck/car that had been wrecked or parted out. I wouldn't be worried about it.

A CP part is identical to a non CP part. The dealer buys in volume and therefore gets them at a reduced price. The only way they can buy those is through volume, so like 100+ bumper covers, 100+ headlights/taillamps/mirrors. It lets them either give a bigger discount to a bodyshop while maintaining the same GP, necessary with the CollisionLink and Parts Trader scams being pushed by insurance companies, or they can sell at their normal price and keep the GP difference.

Ford did have a reconditioning program for bumper covers, but I have not seen that in a while.

bdcardinal said:

A CP is a Crash Part, also called Collision Program. Basically you have to buy it by the truckload. So you can't just order one of those, you have to order 10, along with numerous other Crash Parts. Very few dealers have the room for that kind of storage. FWIW a lot of ford body parts have very little markup. For an example if I give a 20% wholesale discount on certain body parts, I would be selling it at less than my cost from Ford. Also Ford has a new program where parts departments can have "fluid pricing" for body shops where we can pick our own list price to compete with other departments.

I also do Mazda parts and they do not have such a program.

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There is more margin in it then that. I get anywhere from 35-39% across the board from OEM suppliers.

My94GT said:

There is more margin in it then that. I get anywhere from 35-39% across the board from OEM suppliers.

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Not necessarily true.

13COBRA said:

Not necessarily true.

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Some parts are not always going to have large margins and the margins may not be substantially more then the rates at I receive but as a buyer if I’m getting 30+ % then obviously there is more then 20% in the parts on average.

Many things go into it of course, volume being a larger contributor for not only the rate I’m offered from vendors but the rate at which they buy at too.

@13COBRA
How can I tell if a Raptor is a true Roush Raptor or not? (13-14)
Seeing a few roush trucks pop up for sale and they seem to be Roush trucks but I know the vin is the surefire way to verify.

VIN: 1FTFW1R67DFD70497

Is one I'm looking at. If you could help me out I appreciate it.

Blk04L said:

@13COBRA
How can I tell if a Raptor is a true Roush Raptor or not? (13-14)
Seeing a few roush trucks pop up for sale and they seem to be Roush trucks but I know the vin is the surefire way to verify.

VIN: 1FTFW1R67DFD70497

Is one I'm looking at. If you could help me out I appreciate it.

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It is. The invoice shows whether it was originally a Roush vehicle or not. They get shipped directly from the manufacturer, to Roush, then to the dealer.

13COBRA said:

It is. The invoice shows whether it was originally a Roush vehicle or not. They get shipped directly from the manufacturer, to Roush, then to the dealer.

View attachment 1565000

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Sweet. Thank you very much for the info!

Since we're on the topic....I saw an interview with a Roush salesman and he claims there is now a "Roush trim level button" in KBB. basically when you go to sell your Roush vehicle you don't take as much of a hit. any truth to this? Not sure if this only applies to 2018+ vehicles or not

Willie2 said:

Since we're on the topic....I saw an interview with a Roush salesman and he claims there is now a "Roush trim level button" in KBB. basically when you go to sell your Roush vehicle you don't take as much of a hit. any truth to this? Not sure if this only applies to 2018+ vehicles or not

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I've never seen, nor heard of it.

The issue with Roush/Saleen/etc is that NADA doesn't provide an add for it, and the vast majority of financial institutions DO NOT recognize KBB as an evaluation tool.

I've seen this site reference for good valuation expectations on trades, how realistic do you think it is?

Black Book Weekly Values Lite

I'm currently leasing a loaded Explorer Sport. How close to the residual have they been when the lease is up assuming you are within mileage (31,500 in my case) and in good shape? I still have awhile until the lease is up but am already thinking about keeping it assuming it's worth the residual.

I'm curious of the details around a lease residual as well if you could help/clarify. My wife has a 2017 Audi A3 that the lease is up on in 17 months. Car will have less than 30K miles on it at the end of the lease. Our son will be getting his permit around then and we were thinking maybe we'd purchase the car for him when the lease ended since we'd know the car was taken care of and he'd have a nice reliable AWD car for the 21K residual that is left at the lease end. I was in for an oil change at the dealership and they were trying to talk me into a newer model and said they'd give us 22K for the car, which we obviously declined. Seems like if that's what it's worth to them now, we will be waaaay upside down in seventeen months if we wanted to buy the car outright after the lease. Is it the norm for a car to be worth way less than the residual when the lease is up, are the residual values negotiable if you want to buy the car after the lease? Salesman said we'd probably be better of turning the wife's car in at the end if the lease then buying a car off their used lot than refinancing our car after the lease is up because of how upsidedown the value vs residual of the car would be?!?!? Only Audi dealership in INDY.