A couple of weeks ago I had to add 4 quarts of oil to my truck. I've never had to add any to it before. Four nights ago I was challenged by a small car that had V6 T on the side of his fender. The butthead didn't challenge me right away but waited until he could take a run at me from behind. What a sneak. My supercharger was whining like it has never whined before. When I backed off (because of traffic) it was running rough. It was hard to keep running at idle. The next day it was still running rough. When I left a stop sign taking it easy there was a cloud of smoke like I was spraying for mosquitos. It only lasted for a few seconds. About 2 blocks later, it blew out so much smoke I couldn't see the car behind me. It lasted a bout 5 seconds and quit. During this time I was a pint low on oil. Other than these 2 instances, it doesn't smoke. There are no oil spots in my garage. I haven't started it since. I checked the antifreeze and there is no oil. It has ran fine until I was challenged by that little six banger with the turbo. WTF, over? Any ideas what may be the cause of the rough running and clouds of white smoke. I welcome any suggestions or ideas.
Puffs of White Smoke
- Thread starter SAC Man
- Start date
If you were 4 quarts low, you were running on 2 quarts of oil. That is a huge issue.
There could be any number of issues that caused the rough running and oil consumption. I would start by inspecting the pcv system, and replacing all the park plugs to insure you haven't caused massive damage.
There could be any number of issues that caused the rough running and oil consumption. I would start by inspecting the pcv system, and replacing all the park plugs to insure you haven't caused massive damage.
If you were actually 4 qts low on oil, it will be a miracle if there is no permanent engine damage. Particularly in a turbo charged engine under heavy load. I agree with the other poster. I would pull the plugs before I even try to start the vehicle again.
I mentioned I was losing some oil prior because I thought it may be an indicator of my current problem. My oil was only a pint low when my current problem raised its ugly head. I'm not running a turbo. I have the standard Eaton. Thanks for your response.
Thanks for your input.
Thats good. Hopefully you are ok then. Let us know.
I certainly will.
Diagnostics were run on the truck which included a compression check. No compression on cylinder #2. The tech thought it could be a broken ring since I was running WOT. What do you think? Regardless I'll need to overhaul or get a new long block.
Diagnostics were run on the truck which included a compression check. No compression on cylinder #2. The tech thought it could be a broken ring since I was running WOT. What do you think? Regardless I'll need to overhaul or get a new long block.
Man thats a bummer for sure...And yeah that could be a ring, but only way to know for sure is going into it. Sorry to hear that, best of luck on the rebuild, or maybe you can find a good used one without having to go new.
Thank you for your condolences.
I only have 69k on it. Buying a used one could end up the same way. I'm running 14 lbs of boost on E85. I'm not sure what I want to do regarding getting it fixed. Getting a good used one would be the cheapest route vs rebuilding or buying a crate engine. There is about $2k difference in labor to rebuild vs swapping engines. Take that $2k and apply it towards a crate. Another $3k and you will have a new engine with a warranty. The good side of a used one is if I blow it I won't have that much money in it. Ever buy a crate engine?
I think you being down compression explains all your symptoms. If you have a stock maf you likely exceeded the limits of it. If not, you likely had a fueling issue.
If you are going stock quality motor, I wouldn't swap in a used one. A stock lightning motor is hard to find, and you won't know its history. A decent reman is fine, or you can go wild and build a motor.
If you are going stock quality motor, I wouldn't swap in a used one. A stock lightning motor is hard to find, and you won't know its history. A decent reman is fine, or you can go wild and build a motor.
My MAF is a SCT2400. I wasn't looking at my AFR at the time but previously I was down to 10.9 but mostly in the very low 11's. Unless something crapped out on me while I was running WOT, I think I'm getting plenty of fuel. I found a company called Promar that has some pretty good prices. They have reman engines that are bored .030 which I ass-u-me is done to true up the cylinders. They are good up to 18lbs of boost. Do you know of anyone that have used them? Do you have any recommendations on who to buy a reman engine?
I personally havent but I have bought and built several engines and Ive always been fortunate. I am OCD about upkeep and maintenance, but I have throughly run all of my engines hard and have never had one blow yet! And I know what you mean about a new one. Warranty is always nice. Gotta pay to play for sure.Thank you for your condolences.
There is a thread on lightningrodder i think about promar, but no real solid reviews. Most modular ford builders won't take these motors past .020 due to wall thickness.
I'll keep this in mind. Thanks.
I finally got my truck out of the shop. The autopsy showed I had burned a hole in the top of the piston. Kind of melted it. I ordered a new long block with forged pistons and rods plus Tick Flow heads. After a retune I have 450 rwhp which is 40 more hp. Sure glad to get it back. It has been 5 months since I blew the piston. In the meantime I bought a 1998 F150 4.6L as an interim driver. I couldn't pull a sick whore off a piss pot with it. No power compared to my Lightning. Good truck in spite of the lack of power.
SUCKVNM
New Member
SAC Man, Where did you purchase the long block from? and how much did it cost (Range is OK if you don't want to specify). I think I'm going to have to rebuild my )! as well ... I have 3 plugs showing oil ...
I'm checking with the builder and will get back to you. It was around $8,ooo - $8,500 for the long block. I got forged rods and pistons plus trick flow heads. Add another $4,000 for labor including the tune. Hopefully, you can do the work yourself to avoid the additional labor cost.
The block was from MMR (Modular Motorsports Racing). There was difference of only about $1,000 or so between rebuilding and getting a new block. It was a no brainer. Good luck. Bob
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SUCKVNM
New Member
Thank you SAC Man. Appreciate the info!
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