Project 96 Cobra

LaserRed_Snake

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Hello everyone, as yall might of seen on my last post i recently purchased a 96 cobra and decided that this would be my build thread.... car has some minor bolt on such as, full exhaust, jlt cai, sct 91 oct tune, and a few other stuff im forgetting. Well as of friday gave the car a tune up, (oil,oil filter and spark plugs) car seemed to respond way better after. Bank 1 of the imrc was stuck closed so i ran a half can of seafoam through the pcv hose let it sit and then beat the snot out of it make sure i got it all out. All my codes went away no more imrc stuck, now today in the morning i turned the car on to let it warm up, shut it off. About 2 hours later i went to warm it up again to take for a quick spin, car firedup and right before i got into the car it started to sputter and eventually shut off, and would only turn the motor over and start for a second or 2. Did some searching around and im pretty stuck on it being my fuel pump. Reason being i dont hear the pump prime before the car starts, the shrader vavle also didnt spray the gas out, instead it kinda let it out in a stream. Do yall know what else it could be? Maybe a fuse or relay switch? I checked the inertia switch and button was all the way down disconnected the batter put it back in still same issue would only start for a second or 2 and die immediately. Any help would be appreciated! Sorry for the long post and rambling on jusy pretty pissed ive only have the car a week or so.
 

98 svt

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If you are not hearing the pump, I'd point to that.

The Theft light isnt flashing oddly is it?
 

LaserRed_Snake

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If you are not hearing the pump, I'd point to that.

The Theft light isnt flashing oddly is it?

Theft light doesn’t act funny, shut off as soon as the door closes. What fuel pump is good? Might add boost or nitrous later down the road so what a better time to upgrade! I had a DeatshWerk 340lph in my vortech supercharged saleen and that worked great for the set up it had. I might try out another brand or go for DW’s new 400lhp set up on lethal performance?


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LaserRed_Snake

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Update: went to start car today, theft light does not come on after attempting to turn on; still no fuel pump prime, so went ahead and ordered a DeatschWorks 340lph fuel pump as it did a great job in my blown saleen. Hoping this will resolve my issue and allow me to have a decent pump that should withstand some boost or nitrous down the road. Also e85 compatible!


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LaserRed_Snake

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Update: cars up and running fuel pump randomly started to prime i also received my new pump looking nice and pretty
IMG_0715.JPG
also got a set of imrc plates that im in the process of cleaning.
IMG_0716.JPG
IMG_0717.JPG



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LaserRed_Snake

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Update: turning the imrc’s into deletes so i can get rid of the stupid cel, should also benefit me as i am going to throw a vortech blower on her be the ends of the year! Should be picking up the blower Monday and will begin to piece together a kit. Wanted to ask if any if yall know how to remove the butterfly screws if they are striped? The last 2 screws stripped from the top and cant remove them anymore:/ any help is appreciated!
IMG_0726.JPG



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wirelessguy2005

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good luck on the new project, if you have any interest in a lightly used set of factory IMRC plates with controller i have a set i took off my 35,000 mile cobra.
 

LaserRed_Snake

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good luck on the new project, if you have any interest in a lightly used set of factory IMRC plates with controller i have a set i took off my 35,000 mile cobra.

Thanks for the offer but im going to stick with the imrc delete as i am planning to throw a vortech supercharger on it this winter! (Maybe earlier lol) as for the set that im making got the last 2 plates now needing to do another cleaning to make sure they are as gunk free as i can get then and fill up the holes with jb weld!
IMG_0746.JPG



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98 svt

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I see you got the stripped screws out. I usually use a Dremel to make a slot in the top of the screw, then use a flathead to unscrew them.
 

LaserRed_Snake

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I see you got the stripped screws out. I usually use a Dremel to make a slot in the top of the screw, then use a flathead to unscrew them.

Yessir! Went out and bought me a drilling set and drilled right through it hahah. Worked just fine! Question when filling the holes do you fill where the bearings are and In-between every set of ports right? As shown in the picture
IMG_0746.JPG



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98 svt

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LaserRed_Snake

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Update: finally got around to taking off the intake manifold to delete the imrc.
IMG_0971.JPG
I have a question, i plan to put a s-trim vortech blower down the road, would you guys go ahead with the deletes or just clean them up and reassemble?


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ViciousBlack97

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Update: finally got around to taking off the intake manifold to delete the imrc.View attachment 1579990 I have a question, i plan to put a s-trim vortech blower down the road, would you guys go ahead with the deletes or just clean them up and reassemble?


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Honestly, with you going FI in the future, I would be very hesitant to fill the holes in those IMRC plates with silicone as you could very well blow them out the first time you get on boost. I would look for some actual JB weld as most people have had good results, or buy a set of IMRC deletes and never look back. But yes, deleting the IMRCs was the first mod I made to my car and I haven't regretted it. Just make sure you modify the tune to account for them missing or there will be a noticable flat spot in your acceleration curve until about 3500 rpm.
 

LaserRed_Snake

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Honestly, with you going FI in the future, I would be very hesitant to fill the holes in those IMRC plates with silicone as you could very well blow them out the first time you get on boost. I would look for some actual JB weld as most people have had good results, or buy a set of IMRC deletes and never look back. But yes, deleting the IMRCs was the first mod I made to my car and I haven't regretted it. Just make sure you modify the tune to account for them missing or there will be a noticable flat spot in your acceleration curve until about 3500 rpm.

Thanks for the input!! And yes i opted for the original jb weld (grey) as it says it has a threshold of 550*


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