Well it was like 2000-3000da the night I ran. Couldn’t cool it down in the hour or so between runs enough. Starting temps was already 120’s.
Intake is a JLT127, Tb is the cobrajet 65’s, stock trinity elbow
Help me spend my money wisely take my car to the next level
- Thread starter PM-Performance
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Well it was like 2000-3000da the night I ran. Couldn’t cool it down in the hour or so between runs enough. Starting temps was already 120’s.
Intake is a JLT127, Tb is the cobrajet 65’s, stock trinity elbow
That’s pretty similar to my old set up other then the BPS elbow which I bought when I bought the blower. Maybe it was just a bad night for boost, that happens. I’d cram some more boost into that thing with a 15% lower and send it. At that compression ratio, it should respond very nicely. Then if heat is still an issue, you know what options you have; either big tank and ice, port or maybe a little bit a nitrous... 
So as an update, I ended up calling ATI and got a 10% OD body for my ATI lower. Saved me a couple/Few hundred $$$ by just swapping out the body. That should be here tomorrow.
Once I get a chance to install it, I am going to load one of my tune revisions -1* peak timing for pump gas and leave my 100 octane tune alone and do some testing.
I am going to dump some Ice into my Res and make some hard passes and test IAT's since its getting warmer out to see what my next step is with IAT.
If IAT's continue to be a problem my next steps are to either:
A. Swap to a 13/14 IC pump
B. Get rid of the under hood tank and go balls to the wall with a trunk setup. I am hesitant to do this on a primarily street car though.
I still think I may try and add a line lock kit as well to the car to easier control the burnouts to get more heat in the tires for the track.
I looked at WOT boxes, but Im scared im gonna Nuke my mufflers, so I will be holding off on that.
Once I get a chance to install it, I am going to load one of my tune revisions -1* peak timing for pump gas and leave my 100 octane tune alone and do some testing.
I am going to dump some Ice into my Res and make some hard passes and test IAT's since its getting warmer out to see what my next step is with IAT.
If IAT's continue to be a problem my next steps are to either:
A. Swap to a 13/14 IC pump
B. Get rid of the under hood tank and go balls to the wall with a trunk setup. I am hesitant to do this on a primarily street car though.
I still think I may try and add a line lock kit as well to the car to easier control the burnouts to get more heat in the tires for the track.
I looked at WOT boxes, but Im scared im gonna Nuke my mufflers, so I will be holding off on that.
At the strip your IAT2 will rise in the staging lanes, due to the slow air movement in the intake/SC in bypass/drawing underhood air etc. You should see IAT2 drop a lot as you first go down the track, then likely start to go back up. So what your IAT2 does as you go down the track is what I would look at, vs IAT2 in staging lanes. The 13/14 pump is a must for the older models.
Can I ask what are your goals ? 700-725HP is easily attainable with the mods you have right now. With your budget I'd stay with the Trinity. I also have a Lund Tune...mine is the 93 octane race tune at 19 degrees total timing. When I followed Lund's advice ditching the Twin Blade for the KB Mono/Power By Hour (PBH) package my car picked up 37rwhp. Driveability + idle/off idle, mid range, cruising 1800rpm highway is smooth as silk. WOT stabs from slow roll 2nd gear 2000 to 3rd gear 4500+rpm results in smooth linear pulls. Throttle response is crisp and stabs at 4500rpm in 3rd explode. Are you looking for that type of 37rwhp bump for $1400 minus sale of your Twin Blade ?
If you choose the Mono route ...be that FRPP, VMP or KB I'd certainly slap on a O-Sized Plenum.
The XBA Plenum bolt matches the KB Mono to the Trinity. Lund will push you towards the KB set up with the PPH XBA Plenum. The good news with that is if.....you get crazy...and want to spend 4+K on a bigger blower you already have the KB Mono, bolt matching XBA O-Sized plenum to upgrade to KB blower. Other options are Whipple Elliptical TB but some folks like to stay in the wheelhouse of their tuner recommendations.
Sorry if I missed a comment.....but did you dyno your car at Lund or any other shop?
If you choose the Mono route ...be that FRPP, VMP or KB I'd certainly slap on a O-Sized Plenum.
The XBA Plenum bolt matches the KB Mono to the Trinity. Lund will push you towards the KB set up with the PPH XBA Plenum. The good news with that is if.....you get crazy...and want to spend 4+K on a bigger blower you already have the KB Mono, bolt matching XBA O-Sized plenum to upgrade to KB blower. Other options are Whipple Elliptical TB but some folks like to stay in the wheelhouse of their tuner recommendations.
Sorry if I missed a comment.....but did you dyno your car at Lund or any other shop?
Interesting in the throttle body. I was thinking that and the elbow holding me back maybe but scared of a mono due to drivability.
$1400 for a throttle body though? Jesus!
Did not dyno at LUND. The dyno was questionable with its numbers that day, but my traps sucked too, but was hot.
I may buy a 13/14 IC pump this weekend as well and see how that rolls.
Why so low on compression? Don't sounds like a match up for the blower. I'd address that first or change over to twins.
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I am certainly not changing over to a turbo setup. Id more so just sell the car and start with something else.
The FRPP short block replacement for these things was low compression. Its just what it is. I didnt install it, but its a ford part and designed like that
hmm thought they were around 9:1. So basically you're at 7.5 - 7.7to1 with stock cams? and to make power going to have to spin the hell out of that blower.. If you want that.. E85 and chiller set up/ meth, and whatever to keep the heat down...
What the purpose of the car? Have fun at the track or tear up the streets? If you're looking to track it, spend $6-700 on a nitrous kit. If it's street leave it alone. build a motor.. don't understand why spend $1400 for 37hp.... $650 and have 250hp+
What the purpose of the car? Have fun at the track or tear up the streets? If you're looking to track it, spend $6-700 on a nitrous kit. If it's street leave it alone. build a motor.. don't understand why spend $1400 for 37hp.... $650 and have 250hp+
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They are 16CC dish pistons. According to Ford's data, with using stock 5.4 52.7cc heads, it takes it down to 8.1:1 compression
The purpose is a fun street car that will see track time. Mostly roll racing on the streets though if you want me to be honest.
Shit, the more you guys say this, the more I just want to sell the car and get something else. Im not pulling the block out of this thing.
Honestly, you need to start with a good "base" --> Built motor thats going to handle all your goals, also with that everything NEEDS to work together... Drivetrain, suspension, ect.. Plan everything, talk to people that have the experience.. also trial and error. I wouldn't just throw money at it like most people do. Have to remember also remote tunes are very conservative, especially with "stock" components.
Funny to watch a 1000hp dyno queen get beat up on by a 600hp street car....
Funny to watch a 1000hp dyno queen get beat up on by a 600hp street car....
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Still make it a fun street car. Going to have to spend a lot of money imo for your goals, and be reliable. With stock components / mass produced.. it's a time bomb. some get 1200hp some get 700. You really never know.
I didnt build the car. It was a Brenspeed build. I am just tweaking to my liking now that the base is done and getting it dialed in. long story. Im not changing any major components. I just want to maximize on what I got.
Dont get me wrong, for its little piddly power I've whooped on some cars. I beat an 800WHP Yote at full tilt by a car or so and when he was mid 600's I put about 2 zip codes on him. First time out at the track with problems and on 20's the car went 11.6@125-126 pulling timing and heat soaked. Ive beat various other cars, FBO/Pullied CTSV's, Turbo Yote, Blown yotes of all kinds, ATSV with a bunch of boost and boltons, ZL1, ect.
So I mean, its not bad or junk by any means.
So really no "stock" components to the car. Also the tune is not conservative by any means. My pump gas tune for my 2.4 upper shows about 16.5psi avg on hot days is 19.3*. My 100 octane tune is 21*
I really think it may be valuable to go back and read the original post. I think there may be some confusion here with my setup. lol. Its a built motor with pretty much every add on made. Maybe just not the biggest stuff around
ah, I got it. Sure did miss a few there.
Lol, I was hoping I wasn't going to have to do all this work after all the stuff I already have into it. You were scaring me a bit there. lol
Ya, my bad. though it had the 5140 rods. probably has the 4032 piston but was more worried about what rods it had.
My prior research from JDM Engineering is that they ran these in their Cobrajet cars and were stout. I know they offer a diff piston combo if they build it, but supposedly the rods are manley forged rods and mahle pistons
Ya, hard to say without looking at them. but you should be good either way. Always change the pulley for more boost and see what happens. Cheapest route probably. You know what with piston ring gap is? Be your limiting factor.
No clue, you would think ford would release that info, again as I understand it, this is the cobra jet block.
It’s not that I’m being cheap, I just said I’m not willing to replace my motor as it’s already a fresh bottom end and built already.
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