PP Electronic Shock resistors

RazorGTP

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merkyworks said:
Perhaps a stupid thought but maybe the resistor was breaking connection while the car was moving and thats why you were getting the strange behavior....IDK.
Click to expand...

With or without the resistors and the shocks plugged back in I’m still getting that strange behavior. I was wondering maybe the shocks acted as a ground when bolted in? Since they are just laying in the trunk? I don’t know but someone’s gotta know this.
 
LEXiiON

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You could potentially have fried your VDM.

VDM_Diagram.jpg
 
biminiLX

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Thanks for posting that.
That being said, based on this diagram and your knowledge of the factory’s design, any input on keeping fronts in normal/soft while the rears in the opposite sport/stiff?
-J
 
Snoopy49

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biminiLX said:
Thanks for posting that.
That being said, based on this diagram and your knowledge of the factory’s design, any input on keeping fronts in normal/soft while the rears in the opposite sport/stiff?
-J
Click to expand...

It may be as easy as unplugging the rears and set the fronts on normal. The solenoid in the shocks goes into normal mode when voltage is applied, no voltage = sport mode. This will cause a couple of DTCs - Diagnostic Trouble Codes because the system will see an open circuit in the rear damper solenoids.
 
LEXiiON

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biminiLX said:
Thanks for posting that.
That being said, based on this diagram and your knowledge of the factory’s design, any input on keeping fronts in normal/soft while the rears in the opposite sport/stiff?
-J
Click to expand...
I think the safest way would be to take an used set of rears and plug them in and put them in the trunk. The handy guy can take the valves out and just hide them somewhere plugged in. Remember, if the resistance is off, a lot more power is drawn and it could potentially damage the circuit. I have no idea how beefy those circuits are in the VDM.
Another way would be to measure the exact voltage applied and the amps with the voltage and then create a resistor plug that matches this exactly.
LEXiiON
 
biminiLX

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Couldn’t open the pdf but I’m guessing this will take a phone call. Revalued dampers and this kit might work.
-J
 
RazorGTP

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LEXiiON said:
I think the safest way would be to take an used set of rears and plug them in and put them in the trunk. The handy guy can take the valves out and just hide them somewhere plugged in. Remember, if the resistance is off, a lot more power is drawn and it could potentially damage the circuit. I have no idea how beefy those circuits are in the VDM.
Another way would be to measure the exact voltage applied and the amps with the voltage and then create a resistor plug that matches this exactly.
LEXiiON
Click to expand...
. I’m sorry I didn’t see this reply earlier man. Thanks for all this info but decided to screw it and added Strange adj struts to the front and forget about it. But thanks for the in depth post!

BAS said:
Perhaps KW have already solved this... has anyone tried fitting/ using this?

https://www.kwsuspensions.com/produ...-mustang-shelby-gt500-2008-2014-68510383.html


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Click to expand...

Well thanks I’m glad there is a solution but Wow $500 no thanks. I don’t get a dash light or anything it just stays in S on the dash now. Lol


biminiLX said:
Couldn’t open the pdf but I’m guessing this will take a phone call. Revalued dampers and this kit might work.
-J
Click to expand...

Meh so do Viking and Strange.
 
biminiLX

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RazorGTP said:
. I’m sorry I didn’t see this reply earlier man. Thanks for all this info but decided to screw it and added Strange adj struts to the front and forget about it. But thanks for the in depth post!



Well thanks I’m glad there is a solution but Wow $500 no thanks. I don’t get a dash light or anything it just stays in S on the dash now. Lol




Meh so do Viking and Strange.
Click to expand...
That’s always been the option. Ideally this trying to keep a dual mode suspension for a better street strip car.
I haven’t done as much with it as I wanted but it’ll eventually get done.
-J
 
RazorGTP

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biminiLX said:
That’s always been the option. Ideally this trying to keep a dual mode suspension for a better street strip car.
I haven’t done as much with it as I wanted but it’ll eventually get done.
-J
Click to expand...

Oh yes I hear you because that’s what I wanted as well. But now it’s as easy as a few knob turns and I can actually tune for different track conditions, odd Mexico roll race or street comfort. $500 plus revolving seems like a lot I dunno.
 

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