Anyone built a cobra kit car?

CV355

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What did you go with as far as brakes set up?

I know this was directed at Railroad- I'm also interested to see his response.

When I was planning my build, I drooled over these. All of the brake components on my '69 Mach 1 will be Wilwood soon- already swapped over the fronts and working on the master cylinder/booster now.

Wilwood Disc Brakes - Brakes for Factory Five Racing Cars

I used Wilwood, brake pedal box with master cylinders.

Ah, I just had to wait 5 seconds! Gorgeous. Looks like that's two votes for Wilwood!
 

My94GT

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Depending on the person and money available. A budget won't hold water. If you want to build it price conscience, just shop well and limit the add ons.
I bought the top of the line kit and still added options, ie heated seats, trunk mounted battery, big engine, IRS, heat and sound and heat material on all the panels, up graded radiator mount, power steering & cooler, trunk carpeting, custom steering column with turn signal stalk, etc.

The nice thing about it is I can load up the kit from them how I’d like it and order it and if I feel I need a brake from spending I can just stop. I wouldn’t be in a major rush to build this as I’m limited to really a couple solid hours a week of spare “me” time. I would expect to budget about a calendar year for build time frame maybe longer.
 

My94GT

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I know this was directed at Railroad- I'm also interested to see his response.

When I was planning my build, I drooled over these. All of the brake components on my '69 Mach 1 will be Wilwood soon- already swapped over the fronts and working on the master cylinder/booster now.

Wilwood Disc Brakes - Brakes for Factory Five Racing Cars



Ah, I just had to wait 5 seconds! Gorgeous. Looks like that's two votes for Wilwood!

When I’ve looked into the kits prior I too drooled over that brake set up and it would be a must have item
 

CV355

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You can start, stop, restart on a project but man it takes serious discipline. That's where a lot of builds and restos grow roots and wind up on Craigslist or Racingjunk for cheap.

I'm facing it myself. Late 2017, I had grand plans for my Mach 1. Life happened, hit hard. The only way I motivate myself to work on the car is to watch 4 hours of Youtube videos of similar vehicles at car shows.

Granted, a clean-slate build is far less problem-prone than working on an older car where God-knows what went on. Scope winds up being the problem on new builds.
 

My94GT

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You can start, stop, restart on a project but man it takes serious discipline. That's where a lot of builds and restos grow roots and wind up on Craigslist or Racingjunk for cheap.

I'm facing it myself. Late 2017, I had grand plans for my Mach 1. Life happened, hit hard. The only way I motivate myself to work on the car is to watch 4 hours of Youtube videos of similar vehicles at car shows.

Granted, a clean-slate build is far less problem-prone than working on an older car where God-knows what went on. Scope winds up being the problem on new builds.

Yea I’ve looked into restoring stuff but that’s a level of work I prefer not to get involved with. I also really like that with the kit cobra it’s all “new” and clean parts so I’m not stuck working on some dirty ass older car or finding hidden damage.
 

railroad

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I've also been thinking about doing the factory five build.
@railroad When did the build process start and how long has it taken you to get to this point?
For me it may still be a year or two off, but maybe I'll start looking for unfinished projects like you suggested.

I actually took possession of my kit the end of 2016. It was a 20th anniversary kit someone canceled their order on.
I worked hard and heavy and got to the wiring on the Coyote engine and backed off for about a year. I started back this year with a good friend helping and we got it on the road, as a go cart about May of this year.
I usually work on it all day, once a week.
Several other owners bought their kits after me and finished their kits the same year of purchase. .....so my case might be the exception.

There is no issue that cannot be addressed on these cars. Sometimes working by yourself, you may think you have hit a wall. But the internet help is so good, and without bashing, it is super.

My advise is to start reading the websites and get educated. There are a lot of varibles in the different models. The early IRS is OK, but not the best. The 3 link solid axle is the best for the money, drag and track. The new IRS is top of the line.
 

CV355

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Yea I’ve looked into restoring stuff but that’s a level of work I prefer not to get involved with. I also really like that with the kit cobra it’s all “new” and clean parts so I’m not stuck working on some dirty ass older car or finding hidden damage.

Oh for sure. Surprises suck.
 

railroad

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What really drives the cost though for people? Parts alone? Or the labor?

If you cannot do the labor yourself, short of body and paint, it might not be what you need to try. You also need a dedicated space, about 2 car bays. The body has to be set aside, while you build the chassis. It helps to have friends that are car people with tools. A engine hoist is in the game. A lift is a blessing. If you have to transport to use the lift or engine hoist, figure in a trailer.
 

railroad

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If you don't want to spend an easy $50k+ don't do it. And at $50k it'll look like you spent $20k. If you want to go that route buy someone else's started project on the cheap. I looked inot it a few times and once you start adding options it gets ridiculously expensive. Leather seats, IRS,Side pipes, Gauges, Brakes, etc. I don't even know if it could be done for $50k.

My neighbor, just finished his kit at about $20K. It looks very nice. He bought a 2V modular mustang, robbed it, sold the rest to offset cost. Did very good. The guy is full of energy and sharp, can do all his own work.
 

My94GT

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If you cannot do the labor yourself, short of body and paint, it might not be what you need to try. You also need a dedicated space, about 2 car bays. The body has to be set aside, while you build the chassis. It helps to have friends that are car people with tools. A engine hoist is in the game. A lift is a blessing. If you have to transport to use the lift or engine hoist, figure in a trailer.

All the labor I can do, I was just asking as the blanket response seems to be price shoots up fast and I was curious why people say that. I’m assuming install and body labor kill people.

I assume for me the biggest cost will be parts as the rest I can take care of in house building it myself and having it painted which my brother will do for free and I get paint at cost.

As far as space, already set up. The tractor is going in a shed soon, the ram can come out of the garage and the Volvo can slide over so the wife is still happy lol.

I have been considering a lift but I’m up in the air about it. The ceilings are more then high enough so I may still do it. If down the road I got tired of having a lift in my garage I could always take it down but I assume it’ll be really nice to have and I get great pricing on them through the shop I’m at.
 

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CV355

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All the labor I can do, I was just asking as the blanket response seems to be price shoots up fast and I was curious why people say that. I’m assuming install and body labor kill people.

Outsourced labor adds up like crazy, which is where labor ratios come into play for rough orders of magnitude. 50/50 is a good starting point, bias based on the content. Meaning, if you are looking at 10k in materials, you probably have 10k of associated labor. That holds true for larger projects with lots of components/parts. If it's one big, expensive item and a few smaller items, that ratio obviously shifts more towards material than labor (think supercharger install, might be 10k in material and 2.5k in labor). Projects high in skilled craftsmanship bias towards labor quickly. But, for large turnkey projects, 50/50 is a good starting point.

You probably know better than anyone that an el-cheapo $400 paint job won't compare to a $15k color-sanded perfectionist paint job. At that point, preference drives the cost. Could some Youtube inbred build a Cobra kit car for $10k? I'm sure it could be done. Find some dust-covered mess of a FF MK4 in an estate auction, a junkyard 5.0 Foxbody, lots of haggling, rattle-can finish. But for people who actually care about the form fit and function, that cost is generally going to be North of $30k. A crate 5.0 SBF vs a Coyote 5.0 vs a 427FE SO is orders of magnitude in difference. Donor transmission for $300 or a built one for $5k? Preference drives it all.

People get into trouble because they factor the budget for the big items and forget peripherals. That's what got me into trouble. I blew my engine build budget in 2009 and all I had to show for it was a shortblock, heads, cams, and head gaskets. Oh, you mean the rest can't just get yanked from my donor engine? Cam gears, spacers, valve covers, timing set, oil pan, oil pump, reluctor wheel, man the list went on and on. Project dragged out for 11 months before we finally got it started up.

In my line of work, it's the same situation. Customer wants a robot. Robot is $65k. They assume it'll be a done deal for $75k. I give them a proposal for $150k and they can't fathom how the cost got there. Break it down line by line. "You mean cables are $3000???" "Wait, that thing on the end of the robot costs money too?" "Whoa now, YOU need to make profit?" "Well what if I buy that myself so you don't mark it up?" It's all so tiresome. The day I explained to a customer that most robot options are already pre-installed in the controller and you pay to unlock them... gee whiz that was a fun one. A USB dongle costs $6500?!?
 
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capnkirk52

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I can only see it costing that if you are paying a shop to build it
Or go through three motors.

I don't think you're going to come in much less than $50k on yours. You're already at $36k with the kit and your engine, right?
 

My94GT

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Or go through three motors.

I don't think you're going to come in much less than $50k on yours. You're already at $36k with the kit and your engine, right?
I haven’t sat down and started pricing stuff up yet. In the coming weeks when I get some free time I’ll likely make a punch list of stuff needed to get a rough price point
 

railroad

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All the labor I can do, I was just asking as the blanket response seems to be price shoots up fast and I was curious why people say that. I’m assuming install and body labor kill people.

I assume for me the biggest cost will be parts as the rest I can take care of in house building it myself and having it painted which my brother will do for free and I get paint at cost.

As far as space, already set up. The tractor is going in a shed soon, the ram can come out of the garage and the Volvo can slide over so the wife is still happy lol.

I have been considering a lift but I’m up in the air about it. The ceilings are more then high enough so I may still do it. If down the road I got tired of having a lift in my garage I could always take it down but I assume it’ll be really nice to have and I get great pricing on them through the shop I’m at.

You have a lot of the right things on hand. Your largest expense will be the driveline. You will spend small change on nuts, bolts, extra rivets, several tubes of silicone. All the alum panels need silicone or similar between them and the frame, makes everything tight and quiet. I make a trip to get the perfect stainless bolt or a grommet. The trunk carpet was not included with my kit. I put Cool Tech and carpet back there too. After the drive line purchase, it is just small change to the degree you want to spend.
Like the trunk mount recessed battery box, I bought and installed, not required. Factory 5 includes a battery hold down, cable and ends. I stepped up the size of the battery cable, bought new ends, upgraded the battery disconnect, added to jumper lugs in the trunk. See if you just build it, money will not get out of hand.
 

railroad

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One of the $36K kits is pretty complete. This will include a pre cut body, a lot of options, top of the line brakes. leather seats, roll bars, you name it. When you buy this level of kit, you hate to throw a used drive line in it. I have read where builders want to build their own engines. If your dad does not own a machine shop, you are just adding to your cost. Buy a SVT or Blue Print engine and move on.
 

My94GT

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You have a lot of the right things on hand. Your largest expense will be the driveline. You will spend small change on nuts, bolts, extra rivets, several tubes of silicone. All the alum panels need silicone or similar between them and the frame, makes everything tight and quiet. I make a trip to get the perfect stainless bolt or a grommet. The trunk carpet was not included with my kit. I put Cool Tech and carpet back there too. After the drive line purchase, it is just small change to the degree you want to spend.
Like the trunk mount recessed battery box, I bought and installed, not required. Factory 5 includes a battery hold down, cable and ends. I stepped up the size of the battery cable, bought new ends, upgraded the battery disconnect, added to jumper lugs in the trunk. See if you just build it, money will not get out of hand.

Good to hear all this information from someone already deep into it. I’d likely order the kit then slowly piece together the drivetrain as money allows as I’d like to keep this to a cash budget.
 

railroad

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Let me inform you, the crate Coyote engines require a $1500 wiring harness. If you can get a good buy on a pull out Coyote engine, you still need to buy the Ford Performance harness. Get the donor harness, if it is included with the engine, but a nightmare to sort out. A computer and drive by wire throttle pedal is included in the Performance wiring kit. Unless you just have to have a Coyote, a push rod engine is way cheaper and easier to complete. Most of the current generation cannot tune a carb. If that is the case, throttle body fuel inj is good, but can be 10 times the cost of a carb.
,,,did not want this stuff to slip up on you, even in planning.
 

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