Need Opinions : Stored Car

Rare40th

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2004 Gt, stock slow 2v.
I tried checking the search as I feel this was a thread way back. However I need some opinions on starting/driving a car that's been stored for a little while. Any specific startup procedures? Things to keep in mind or what to look for?

Last oil change was last summer, plan on making that a first priority before putting any actual miles on it. Car has had probably 500 miles put on it in 2.5 years. The gas tank is almost full and does have some stabil in it. Do any of you guys run any fuel system treatments? Draining the tank?

Thanks SVTP!
 

sleek98

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Fire it up and drive.

Just watch the temp gauge for a little bit otherwise nothing crazy. It might be a year or two between driving some of our classic cars. We don’t do anything special with them.
 

CV355

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Something like that, nah. Oil change is about all you need. Gas will be crap but it'll run. You could always pull the fuel pump fuse (bottom left in the engine bay fuse box on that car) and let the engine crank a few extra seconds to help get the oil circulated prior to startup. In reality though, it's debatable if it really does anything useful aside from make you feel better when turning the key. Some people swear by it though. Can't hurt unless you cook the starter haha.
 

Rare40th

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Something like that, nah. Oil change is about all you need. Gas will be crap but it'll run. You could always pull the fuel pump fuse (bottom left in the engine bay fuse box on that car) and let the engine crank a few extra seconds to help get the oil circulated prior to startup. In reality though, it's debatable if it really does anything useful aside from make you feel better when turning the key. Some people swear by it though. Can't hurt unless you cook the starter haha.

See and I have heard about that and that if you didn't want to pull the fuse you could keep the throttle pedal pushed down before turning the key and it supposedly cranks but doesn't turn over?
 

CV355

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See and I have heard about that and that if you didn't want to pull the fuse you could keep the throttle pedal pushed down before turning the key and it supposedly cranks but doesn't turn over?

I have heard that too, but I'd be too afraid of a jackrabbit start.
 

black4vcobra

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See and I have heard about that and that if you didn't want to pull the fuse you could keep the throttle pedal pushed down before turning the key and it supposedly cranks but doesn't turn over?

I can confirm this is true on my 99 Cobra. I used to pull the fuel pump fuse during the first start after winter storage and then heard about depressing the gas pedal all the way. Tried it once when the engine was already warm and sure enough, cranked but didn't start.
 

Rare40th

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I have heard that too, but I'd be too afraid of a jackrabbit start.

Lol that's me. A little too afraid to try it

Start and go, I wouldn’t even bother changing the oil but that’s just me

Thanks for your input!

I can confirm this is true on my 99 Cobra. I used to pull the fuel pump fuse during the first start after winter storage and then heard about depressing the gas pedal all the way. Tried it once when the engine was already warm and sure enough, cranked but didn't start.

Good to know someones done it. Still unsure about trying it myself.
What exactly is the benefit of cranking it without letting it start? Just oil and fuel cycling? Doesn't damage anything internally?
 

black4vcobra

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Lol that's me. A little too afraid to try it

Thanks for your input!


Good to know someones done it. Still unsure about trying it myself.
What exactly is the benefit of cranking it without letting it start? Just oil and fuel cycling? Doesn't damage anything internally?

No prob, could take a video of it and post on youtube if you really want!

You got it. Cranking the engine gets the oil circulating and the crank/cams are rotating much slower than even idling at 800 rpm. That means less wear and tear on bearings and cylinder walls. Also pressurizes the fuel system but that generally isn't otherwise a problem unless your fuel pump is getting weak.

Only thing I can imagine being a downside is slightly more wear on your starter and on the battery. This is obviously minimal though.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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You could always pull the fuel pump fuse (bottom left in the engine bay fuse box on that car) and let the engine crank a few extra seconds to help get the oil circulated prior to startup.

I would NOT recommend this - mod motors do NOT build sufficient engine oil pressure on the starter. The instructions that came with my built motor from a very well known mod motor builder had a section of the instructions that specifically NOT to try and prime the motor on the starter, it needs to be done with a pressure system (I used a garden sprayer setup for about $12 which they said was fine)

Start and go, I wouldn’t even bother changing the oil but that’s just me

This. We have 3 vehicles that sit for extended periods of time and we don't do a damned thing really. We park em with a full tank and disconnect the negative terminal.

No prob, could take a video of it and post on youtube if you really want!

You got it. Cranking the engine gets the oil circulating and the crank/cams are rotating much slower than even idling at 800 rpm. That means less wear and tear on bearings and cylinder walls. Also pressurizes the fuel system but that generally isn't otherwise a problem unless your fuel pump is getting weak.

Only thing I can imagine being a downside is slightly more wear on your starter and on the battery. This is obviously minimal though.

see above, personally I think this does nothing or more harm than good
 

Rare40th

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No prob, could take a video of it and post on youtube if you really want!

You got it. Cranking the engine gets the oil circulating and the crank/cams are rotating much slower than even idling at 800 rpm. That means less wear and tear on bearings and cylinder walls. Also pressurizes the fuel system but that generally isn't otherwise a problem unless your fuel pump is getting weak.

Only thing I can imagine being a downside is slightly more wear on your starter and on the battery. This is obviously minimal though.

Again thank you for your help and insight. Looking to get the car out and decide if it still has my attention or if it's time to move on.

I would NOT recommend this - mod motors do NOT build sufficient engine oil pressure on the starter. The instructions that came with my built motor from a very well known mod motor builder had a section of the instructions that specifically NOT to try and prime the motor on the starter, it needs to be done with a pressure system (I used a garden sprayer setup for about $12 which they said was fine)



This. We have 3 vehicles that sit for extended periods of time and we don't do a damned thing really. We park em with a full tank and disconnect the negative terminal.



see above, personally I think this does nothing or more harm than good

Sweet thank you as well!!
 

black4vcobra

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I would NOT recommend this - mod motors do NOT build sufficient engine oil pressure on the starter. The instructions that came with my built motor from a very well known mod motor builder had a section of the instructions that specifically NOT to try and prime the motor on the starter, it needs to be done with a pressure system (I used a garden sprayer setup for about $12 which they said was fine)

So this would be the first time ever starting the engine? As opposed to starting it after sitting 6-12 months?

If the first time ever, do you think Ford pressurizes the lubrication system at the factory prior to the initial startup? I wouldn't think so but I legitimately don't know.

I can see your reasoning that an engine idling will create adequate oil pressure and the starter will not be able to build oil pressure adequate for a running engine.
 

CV355

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I would NOT recommend this - mod motors do NOT build sufficient engine oil pressure on the starter. The instructions that came with my built motor from a very well known mod motor builder had a section of the instructions that specifically NOT to try and prime the motor on the starter, it needs to be done with a pressure system (I used a garden sprayer setup for about $12 which they said was fine)

It's a gerotor pump which has a crazy mechanical/volumetric advantage... We didn't/shouldn't use the crank method for initial oil priming on first startup, you are totally correct there. But, just sitting around, it hasn't drained to a "dry start" point in reality.

OP, DSG2003Mach1's advice here is correct. If you want to go the extra mile and really prime that thing, do what he is saying here with an external pump. Otherwise, a few extra seconds cranking to get the fluids moving before startup is still far better off than a hail-mary start.

For the record, I had a Modular Performance (Tymensky) MP2000 5.4 shortblock, built to the absolute max. We followed the instructions on startup "to a t." But in OP's case, it's more of a prolonged start than an initial dry prime.

All things considered, idle speed isn't ideal for total lubrication either. Every time you start an engine, it has a period of time where there isn't an adequate film thickness or pressure yet the assembly is rotating. That's just life. We just try to minimize it.
 
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MachME

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Any ford with fuel injection you can hold down the pedal to shut off injectors and turn over. I dont care about the above statement, do this should at least get some oil into the pump and what not, which is better than nothing.

I let car sit for years at a time with stabil, battery tender, over inflated tires on carpet squares and they'll always fire right up.

Also FYI, you want to change oil before storage, not after. Water is a by product of combustion, if you have moisture in the there, it can rust the cylinder walls and what not. Fresh oil, let it cycle, then store.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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But, just sitting around, it hasn't drained to a "dry start" point in reality.

Couldnt you argue that a properly just built motor probably has an equivalent film of assembly lube?

My motor is from Tim @ MPR in south florida
 

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