So a couple of years ago I bought an MM strut tower brace for my 03 Cobra. It was a PITA to install. I got fed up with it and took it to a local shop that is well known for custom fabrication of race cars and who owns an older Cobra. He installed it for me. He told me before I drove of that it was a B*&#@ to install and that he hopes that I never have to remove it.
Fast forward to today. I have to remove it. I am FAIRLY certain that the needle bearings and the rotors in my Eaton are gone.
I've been thinking. I COULD remove it. I would rather not have to try to reinstall it. To make things easier in the future I've been thinking about cutting the brace towards the firewall on both sides. Then it could easily unbolt from the strut towers and reconnect in the rear with lock collars. Then anytime it needed to be removed it would be a 5-10 minute job. Easy.
Back when I raced go karts we used a similar system on the rear ends with a removable torsion bar. When you wanted the kart to flex a little (on wet tracks) you removed the bar. When you needed the kart to be more rigid (on drier tracks) you installed the bar with lock collars. Yes. You are correct. This would mean that the bar is NOT 100% as effective as though it were welded together as one piece. I understand.
I was just wondering if everyone else just removes it completely? Or has any other ways of making this less painful. Having a convertible I really want as much bracing as possible. Yes, I also already have full length welded in MM subframe connectors.
Thoughts?
Fast forward to today. I have to remove it. I am FAIRLY certain that the needle bearings and the rotors in my Eaton are gone.
I've been thinking. I COULD remove it. I would rather not have to try to reinstall it. To make things easier in the future I've been thinking about cutting the brace towards the firewall on both sides. Then it could easily unbolt from the strut towers and reconnect in the rear with lock collars. Then anytime it needed to be removed it would be a 5-10 minute job. Easy.
Back when I raced go karts we used a similar system on the rear ends with a removable torsion bar. When you wanted the kart to flex a little (on wet tracks) you removed the bar. When you needed the kart to be more rigid (on drier tracks) you installed the bar with lock collars. Yes. You are correct. This would mean that the bar is NOT 100% as effective as though it were welded together as one piece. I understand.
I was just wondering if everyone else just removes it completely? Or has any other ways of making this less painful. Having a convertible I really want as much bracing as possible. Yes, I also already have full length welded in MM subframe connectors.
Thoughts?
