Best supercharged Foxbody Radiator/fan combo?

Nukem1040

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I’ve been searching all over. Looking to you pros for a seal the deal overall and help.

Radiator: Champion seems great, but I’m liking Mashimoto’s with lifetime warranty. Going price is $257. Thoughts?

Fan: everyone keeps saying the Contour fan. Where’s the best place to buy it? Is my only option to buy the $100 LMR adapter kit for securing the fan to the radiator? Is there a better fan set up?

Fan Relay: I’m lost on this. One guy posted a neat plug and play off Amazon for $100 but had 2 Star reviews. Others just home wire it up. Is there a best affordable “plug and play” fan relay that turns them on intermittently. Do I need to get the LMR thermostat housing to screw in the fan relay temperature sensor?
If hoMe wiring is the best affordable option, can you post pics of how everything is wired up and ran?

Lastly, any Black Friday deals coming up on these parts?

TIA


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Tob

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Fluidyne radiator.
LMR Contour fan assembly. Easy enough to make brackets to fit.
Controller - Autocoolguy 85amp.

The above is exactly what I did with mine this summer. Autocoolguy controller is pulse width modulated so you don't see spikes but instead you'll see the fans ramp up as needed, or down. Failsafe switch so that you can run full blast if need be. The only caveat is that you have to make your own harness. No biggie, just time consuming.

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IMG_6110-X2.jpg
 

Cobra Jet

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SPAL dual 11” fans is what I have used with a Hayden dual fan fan controller that is capable of handling those fans and the electrical draw from the power of those fans.

As for radiator Fluidyne is good as is Mishimoto.
 

Nukem1040

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Thank you for your set-up details guys, and definitely the pictures Tob. Not sure if I’ll do the relay as yours, but I like it!




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MFE

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I solved a lot of cooling problems going from ching-chong ebay shit to a Mishimoto radiator. I'm using a Derale PWM module to control it, which supposedly licensed the tech/circuitry from the dude who made the legendary DCC fan controllers.
 

RedVenom48

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Fluidyne radiator.
LMR Contour fan assembly. Easy enough to make brackets to fit.
Controller - Autocoolguy 85amp.

The above is exactly what I did with mine this summer. Autocoolguy controller is pulse width modulated so you don't see spikes but instead you'll see the fans ramp up as needed, or down. Failsafe switch so that you can run full blast if need be. The only caveat is that you have to make your own harness. No biggie, just time consuming.

View attachment 1606836

View attachment 1606837
As always sir, your workmanship is impeccable!
 

Tob

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I tried the Derale unit, ignoring all the advice against it across the web and bought one anyway as the features sounded too good to pass up. Sure enough, I had the same issue others ran into - the tape on temperature sensor (and I had the latest one made available). The fans simply wouldn't come on at 200+. Tested everything, all good. Sensor was in range. Bought another sensor, same issue. Derale tech suggested what I had already tried - moving it up on the cold side until it would work. I was damn near the top of the radiator and it was still activating way too late. I bailed.

The Derale sensor is attached at the cold side using 3M two sided tape. Under the tape is a small circuit board. I could heat the sensor up with a heat gun and the fans would activate just fine. I also wasn't big on wiring the control unit direct to battery hot and ground. The Autocoolguy runs hot leads from the battery to the fans and then the grounds from each fan run to the control unit. In addition, it uses a traditional coolant sensor that is located in the coolant stream (on the cool side). The controller connectors are bigger as well which is something I felt the Derale left a bit to be desired.
 

RedVenom48

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I tried the Derale unit, ignoring all the advice against it across the web and bought one anyway as the features sounded too good to pass up. Sure enough, I had the same issue others ran into - the tape on temperature sensor (and I had the latest one made available). The fans simply wouldn't come on at 200+. Tested everything, all good. Sensor was in range. Bought another sensor, same issue. Derale tech suggested what I had already tried - moving it up on the cold side until it would work. I was damn near the top of the radiator and it was still activating way too late. I bailed.

The Derale sensor is attached at the cold side using 3M two sided tape. Under the tape is a small circuit board. I could heat the sensor up with a heat gun and the fans would activate just fine. I also wasn't big on wiring the control unit direct to battery hot and ground. The Autocoolguy runs hot leads from the battery to the fans and then the grounds from each fan run to the control unit. In addition, it uses a traditional coolant sensor that is located in the coolant stream (on the cool side). The controller connectors are bigger as well which is something I felt the Derale left a bit to be desired.
Ground side switched is the greatest control method for automotive electrical. easy on everything and if its on when its not supposed to be, you know where your short is.
 

Bdubbs

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My car came from down south. It did fine this summer in Minnesota with temps in the 80's. City driving temps stayed 180-185*.

Simple combo:

-Fluidyne radiator
-Mark v fan
-Painless fan relay

The fan is turned on using the factory switch just below the headlight switch. Fan has one speed, blows crazy amount of air. Fan will turn on when temp hits 180*.

But I might one day upgrade to the contour set up.


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Nukem1040

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Thank you everyone for your feedback. I’m really liking Tob’s set up. Autocoolguy is a great setup, not to mention he’s a Vietnam vet !
I think for starters, I’ll get the Mashimoto radiator with the stock fan. The engine, Vortech, and MSD still need to be installed this winter so we can work out those gremlins. I have to research a good 130amp alternator too.
Next step would be find the Contour fans and hopefully LMR gets them back in stock.

Tob, how did you mount your overflow can? I purchased the one below.
4189cafec26cc37bd93c7cc25a47dfae.jpg



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Nukem1040

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I solved a lot of cooling problems going from ching-chong ebay shit to a Mishimoto radiator. I'm using a Derale PWM module to control it, which supposedly licensed the tech/circuitry from the dude who made the legendary DCC fan controllers.

Is yours a 2 row or highly advised to get Mishimoto 3 row?


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Nukem1040

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Is there any Black Friday deals on the 3-row Mishimoto Radiators? I can hold off to get a deal.


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Tob

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Tob, how did you mount your overflow can? I purchased the one below.
View attachment 1606928

I considered the one you purchased but in the end bought one from Canton as it was a good aesthetic match for what I had planned and had plenty of capacity. In my case, I moved it to the passenger side due to the welded tab orientation as well as the amount of room I had. Just make sure your elevation is good and you can pretty much mount it wherever works for you.

On edit....I had these uploaded to a Smugmug gallery and I think it'll give you a fair idea of what I did anyway. I have shots on my phone somewhere with more detail but I think these offer a good glimpse.

Again, I tried every possible location and configuration with this particular piece but the tabs dictated more than I would have liked. Fill neck height is very near that of the stock overflow tank albeit on the opposite side of the radiator.

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz20190704_142943-X3.jpg



Canton has an external sight tube that I suppose helps with verifying correct fill amount of coolant but really isn't necessary.


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I just ran the transfer tube from the radiator cap straight down and then made a 90* turn alond the bottom of the radiator and over to the bottom of the Canton tank. Mechanically it works perfectly and I think it works aesthetically as well. There are smaller tanks in different shapes and configurations out there but I'm sure you'll be fine with what you plan to use.
 

Bdubbs

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I considered the one you purchased but in the end bought one from Canton as it was a good aesthetic match for what I had planned and had plenty of capacity. In my case, I moved it to the passenger side due to the welded tab orientation as well as the amount of room I had. Just make sure your elevation is good and you can pretty much mount it wherever works for you.

On edit....I had these uploaded to a Smugmug gallery and I think it'll give you a fair idea of what I did anyway. I have shots on my phone somewhere with more detail but I think these offer a good glimpse.

Again, I tried every possible location and configuration with this particular piece but the tabs dictated more than I would have liked. Fill neck height is very near that of the stock overflow tank albeit on the opposite side of the radiator.

View attachment 1607224


Canton has an external sight tube that I suppose helps with verifying correct fill amount of coolant but really isn't necessary.


View attachment 1607225

View attachment 1607226


I just ran the transfer tube from the radiator cap straight down and then made a 90* turn alond the bottom of the radiator and over to the bottom of the Canton tank. Mechanically it works perfectly and I think it works aesthetically as well. There are smaller tanks in different shapes and configurations out there but I'm sure you'll be fine with what you plan to use.
How is that msd 6al treating you? I have a msd 6a that has been on the car for many years.

I've been told that the newer msd boxes fail often. I'd like to install a new one in black. But if this one keeps working...

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Tob

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It's the digital box, not the old style. They have some nice features and are pretty darn solid.
 

Bdubbs

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It's the digital box, not the old style. They have some nice features and are pretty darn solid.
Cool. I think most of the ones I've seen are digital. MSD claims I can just swap them out. But the new style has a plug in harness.

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Tob

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It plugs into the box but you are still wiring up the other end of the harness. Easy enough to do though. Unless you are talking about some Fox-specific part # they may have.
 

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