Head stud replacement question.

i wanted to know is it possible to safely replace the studs to an arp setup without removing the head. I’ve searched and found posts of people a few years back stating that it will have little to no affect on the head gaskets. I’ve also read people stating they’ve done it and it was years ago.
Does anyone with the experience have any information on this, as to is it worth it or don’t risk it and just wait to remove the head and replace it with new gaskets?
Just for reference I don’t need to do this to my knowledge as everything is perfectly fine with the car. It’s just that I’m going to powdercoat the valve covers and thought I could do it while it was open. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Don’t try, it’s a dumb idea. So many reasons I don’t even want to elaborate. Probably should get a Prius.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What are your power goals?

Four Door SVT said:

Don’t try, it’s a dumb idea. So many reasons I don’t even want to elaborate. Probably should get a Prius.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

Lol sounds good. I’ll just leave it the way it is.

power goals are only 650-700. Later on when and if that is to go higher is when I’ll just build the motor at that point.

Quite a few guys have done it on here. I think the latest guy is waiting for his new blower to show up.

As long as you don't loosen more than one you should be ok. It's when the torque is lost the issues crop up.

Just to add....a fellow mystichrome buddy did head studs that way. He's been running a gen 3 whipple 2.9 crusher since they came out with no issues. I think he's running low 10's. He's not afraid to drive it.

I think for the majority of people it has worked, just be prepared for the possibility it might not.

I understand now. Low chance of something going wrong but there’s still a chance. I’ll just leave it alone until I want to turn up the boost and go from there.

at that boost level/hp I don't think you need to worry about it.

Would it be nice to have extra assurance? sure.. but when I do mine I'll be doing cams at the same time.

im doing it right now, i have faith it will hold. im also looking at 25lbs and 800hp so i needed it. the way i look at it is if it doest hold im pulling the head anyway so i might as well give it a try. my passenger side is done, will be doing the driver soon
i took my time and followed the original order, just went straight to 85ftlbs

I think I’ve read that it’s recommended to go past what ARP says. Want to say I’ve see like 100 or 110.

Don’t quote me though. Dig around and see what you find.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

94slowbra1 said:

im doing it right now, i have faith it will hold. im also looking at 25lbs and 800hp so i needed it. the way i look at it is if it doest hold im pulling the head anyway so i might as well give it a try. my passenger side is done, will be doing the driver soon
i took my time and followed the original order, just went straight to 85ftlbs

Click to expand...

was that you posting over on modular fords about this? If so I'd be confident following Ed's advice

I did not but I have read the thread and his advice. He seems confident so therefore I am.

DSG2003Mach1 said:

was that you posting over on modular fords about this? If so I'd be confident following Ed's advice

Click to expand...

Installing studs individually is not really any different than the re-torque process after a build. Lots of Ed in my build thread (including the re-torque process), the engine hasn’t missed a beat in about four years...

Aluminator Gibtec Build

I put in head studs without taking the head off and I've done 2 half-mile events and plenty of street driving.

MG0h3 said:

I think I’ve read that it’s recommended to go past what ARP says. Want to say I’ve see like 100 or 110.

Don’t quote me though. Dig around and see what you find.

Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

Click to expand...

Definitely do NOT want to do that with an aluminum block. 85 lbs/ft, 90 at the most.
I think iron blocks can go a bit higher but if 85-90 works on an aluminum block I wouldn't see a need to go to much higher on iron.

Ken

ive read a bunch on what different builders recommend. i couldn't decide between 85 and 90 so i with 88, ha

Now you guys have me rethinking this since I still have 2weeks before o get my valve covers back. by chance anyone have the link to the other forum?

4sdvenom said:

Definitely do NOT want to do that with an aluminum block. 85 lbs/ft, 90 at the most.
I think iron blocks can go a bit higher but if 85-90 works on an aluminum block I wouldn't see a need to go to much higher on iron.

Ken

Click to expand...

Rgr. I may have misread or confused something.


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

I have seen that the boss blocks can take the extra tq, 100-110 range. The aluminum blocks need to stay at the 85-90 range. I see no need to go over 90 on my factory block

Are you guys using 2000s?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk