SN95 Rollercoaster

Does the 4 gauge wire have any fuse protection?

04DeadShort said:

Does the 4 gauge wire have any fuse protection?

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No. I will call Ford tech to discuss, but the stock harness isn’t fused to my knowledge so that’s why I did what I did. Either way, adding a fuse block wouldn’t take more than a few minutes.


IG: @does_not_listen

The control pack is basically plug and play with the exception of the I/P pigtail. Below are the connections I used.

A. Fuel pump: wire lead directly to the fuel pump. Initially had it tied into the inertia switch and that worked fine, but more on the fuel system forthcoming.

B. Ignition: Requires 12V when the key is in the Start and Run positions. Tied into Tan/White stripe wire under the steering column.

C. Starter Request: Requires 12V during Start ONLY. White/pink stripe under steering column.

D. Tach: No connection required. This is controlled by the Dallas Speedcal





IG: @does_not_listen

Most people use a oil filter relocation kit because the specified 5” filter conflicts with the sway bar. I have both a MM sway bar relocation kit and an oil filter relocation kit, but I’d prefer to not use them unless they’re absolutely necessary. For the time being I grabbed a AC Delco filter with the same thread pitch, 10 1.5, that’s 3” tall and clears the sway bar. I’ll confirm with Ford a smaller filter is acceptable.



Oil changes will require undoing the sway bar end links.


The MM oil relocation kit is very nice, high quality. It moves the filter below the driver side fog light. The geometry of the filter to bumper isn’t pleasant and can get messy during oil changes. Removing the sway bar end links is easier for me than dealing with the filter near the fog light.


IG: @does_not_listen

As noted in previous posts, I upsized the fuel pump, kept the factory supply and return lines and added a FPR. The push lock AN fitting connection to the factory supply line was leaking. I bought 2 fittings, so I installed the other fitting and it leaked too!

Instead of continuing down this path I decided to buy a complete fuel kit. I purchased a 900hp kit from Glenn’s Performance. It utilizes the stock tank and stock rails.


IG: @does_not_listen

Ford Racing tech support suggests using a 250a fuse between the power source and the control pack power distribution box. The way I routed my power to the alternator and starter is acceptable. No other fuses were suggested.



IG: @does_not_listen

250A sounds kinda steep but I was a able to find a picture proving the Ford Racing Tech to be correct. Kinda hard to see but it does show a 250A fuse. Nice.

2013/2014 GT500 air box to make my own cold air intake




IG: @does_not_listen

04DeadShort said:

View attachment 1617847

250A sounds kinda steep but I was a able to find a picture proving the Ford Racing Tech to be correct. Kinda hard to see but it does show a 250A fuse. Nice.

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I saw that in an instruction guide for another control pack. Must’ve forgot to include it in the instructions for the control pack I’m using.


IG: @does_not_listen

Power steering and coolant reservoirs arrived





IG: @does_not_listen

Real98roush said:

2013/2014 GT500 air box to make my own cold air intake

View attachment 1617997View attachment 1617998


IG: @does_not_listen

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Got parts to make a cold air intake. 90° coupler, filter and kit with 4" lengths and bends.

In the end it's not cheaper, probably slightly more expensive than buying a pre-made kit, but it'll definitely be more fun





IG: @does_not_listen

Real98roush said:

Power steering and coolant reservoirs arrived

View attachment 1617999



IG: @does_not_listen

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The Mishimoto PS reservoir will not work. Looked like it had removable fittings, but that’s not the case. I’m going to try to make a bracket this weekend to but the stock reservoir in an inconspicuous location.


IG: @does_not_listen

Initially I wired the control pack fuel pump wire directly to the pump. The connection was on top of the tank. For some reason this was keeping me awake at night, so I decided to redo the wiring using a Fore FC2 controller moving the connections in the trunk.





Drilled a hole for the pump wires, used a grommet and heat shrink to protect the wires



Ran the -8 supply, -6 return to the engine bay, but need a few more AN fittings to plumb the FPR to the rail. Pictures forthcoming.




IG: @does_not_listen

Buttoned up the fuel system


Tried to tuck the FPR behind the passenger shock tower but AC was in the way, so I put it in front.




IG: @does_not_listen

I’m just about done. Need to finish the CAI and mount the coolant and PS reservoirs, but there’s not much room available in the engine bay.

Looks like the PS might fit, but the connections will be kinked


I wanted to put the coolant tank between the alternator and fan, but now that the radiator is mounted I’m seeing there isn’t enough room.


Guys on FB pointed me towards a Volvo electric PS pump that can be installed in the fender well.
Grabbed one today for $45


Then I can move the alternator back to its original location where the mechanical PS pump is now. That should free up space for a coolant tank.


IG: @does_not_listen

While at the pic-a-part looking for the PS pump I cruised the mustang row and found some interior pieces. 95 door panels with the perforated inserts and a double din for $11 each. We’ll see if I can restore them after I get the car running.




Door panels need some love, but should be repairable


IG: @does_not_listen

Wife got me some MMD hood struts. Happy to ditch the prop rod



IG: @does_not_listen

Car is coming together nicely. Checking in on this after not seeing it for a while. Love the direction and quality!

streetpilot said:

Car is coming together nicely. Checking in on this after not seeing it for a while. Love the direction and quality!

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Thank you!


IG: @does_not_listen

Car is going to be awesome. I'll be interested to see what you do with the door panels, mine need some love too.