Thinking of selling

RBB

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Playing around with the idea of selling my 2011 GT500 to move into a new one. It's a heavily modded car, and I'm having a tough time digging up any comparable sales. Obviously I'll get nowhere near what I put into it, but what do you guys think this thing is worth? Interested to hear your thoughts, I have no idea where to even start on the asking price.

2011 GT500, SVTPP, 43K miles, black/red stripes

Mods:
JDM Engineering built 5.8, can support up to 1,200hp
JDM Engineering SS cams
Ferrea SS valves
Cryo/microblued billet cam sprockets, HD chains, HD secondary tensioner, billet OPGs, billet crank sprocket
KB Bigun IC
1320 Junkie ported lower intake manifold
VMP Gen3 TVS
VMP Twin 69
JLT 123 CAI
Fore return fuel system/ID 1000s
VMP triple pass H/E
MGW Gen2 shifter
DSS CF driveshaft
Stainless Works long tubes/off road X
Borla S-type mufflers
Aluminum tanks (black powdercoat)
Project 321 coil covers
Shelby engine caps
13/14 Recaro seat conversion
13/14 tail light conversion
BMR adj panhard bar/brace, adj LCAs, LCA relo brackets, Ultimate UCA/mount
Viking Crusaders
SOS triple pillar pod/dual Aeroforce Interceptors/fuel pressure gauge
Forgestar CF5V (black powdercoat)
 
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cidsamuth

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In my opinion . . .

Start with an honest KBB assessment if unmodified. By "honest," I mean don't pretend your car is cherry just because it is in very good condition. Use an honest condition, which should also reflect how the car has been used, i.e. whether it has been beaten hard at the track.

Then, add back 1/2 of your mod expenses. Use that as a starting point. Likely, you'll be at 1/3 of your mod expenses at final sale.
 

sleek98

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I am going to say 40-45 will be your final sale price depending on your local market.

There have been a couple cars locally with sleeved motors and 4L KB that have been listed between 50-60k and have sat on the market for 9+ months.
 

Catmonkey

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I guess I would approach it similarly. Consider what the car would be worth if you returned it to stock and then price those components as though you would consider selling them in the market section. That might be my starting point, but I'd factor in what you would have to pay someone to return it to stock as a discount from that point. I'm in the same boat and I know what it costs to put together a built engine, and one done the right way. I also held onto my stock short block, as well as the other stock components, and while I'd do the work myself, I'd have to factor in a discount to not do that.
 

Willie

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History has proven over and over that you never get any more for mods. Even if that's not bad enough, a buyer will obviously scrutinize a modded car even more than a stock one. That being said, to get the most back, it must be stock or near stock. In the real world, that would be easy on a lightly modded car, but not one like yours. So you should develop a list of things you can "undo" and do it. Sell the car and emphasize the positives, i.e. a motor that's been strengthened to add "insurance" of it lasting for a long time. You get the picture. Then sell your parts to recover some of what you put into it. But above all >>

NEVER trade a car in. That is like handing thousands over to a dealership and getting nothing in return. I don't know if the following applies to you, but I also never buy from a dealership. You never get history and it's always nice to talk to the owner directly to ask those questions dealerships don't have answers to. This is true especially in Arizona, where a private party sale is exempt from paying any sales tax upon transferring the title.

These are the things I have learned over time and always follow my own words.
 
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PM-Performance

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To be honest, its gonna go for a tad less than a stock lower mileage one would go for. Most people try to avoid heavily modded cars as they usually require a bit of money to clean issues up and you gotta have know how to do so.
Id say if you get anything over a stock one, feel blessed.
 

GNBRETT

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A Modded car and a fully built one like urs are two different things imo so a stock-like price is out of the question. Id say $40k would be reasonable. Every tire ticker from here to kingdom come wants to see a dyno queen sheet so it probably behoves u to get one unless u have track times.
 

MelloStang2010

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Hard to put a number on a car like that and its kinda worth what you feel it is since you know what it cost to build it. 40-45k seems reasonable since it blue books at 29k. Setting price is one thing and finding the buyer that wants something like this is even harder I feel. Might have luck using a face book page like 500 plus horsepower for sale. I see crazy built cars on that page all the time for sale, just sucks that they only do paid ads now but they can get insane exposure for a car.

Other option is to do a part out of the engine and all the other big ticket or easy to remove items. Would be a pain and time consuming but you could get a decent chunk of your change back for the mods. If hadn't just bought a house id even entertain the idea of trading my stock 2012 engine for your built one if it was feasible, but I'm sure you could find someone who might be willing to do the same. Could probably trade blowers with someone with a stock one super easy. Again, would be a pain to deal with but selling a lightly modified 2011 with a stock engine and blower would probably be easier than selling a fully built one.
 

Roush9703

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This might help a little, mileage is way off but mods are similar. I purchased this car in the spring for $28k. 2012 GT500 race red w/ black stripes and just over 100,000 miles on the odometer. The exterior of the car is in perfect shape, with no rust. One pretty big thing is that this car only had one Kirkey seat and did not come with the stock seats and the short block is still stock. Mod list is below.


Wheels: Weld Racing single beadlock rears & Weld alumastars 2.0 fronts. 15x10 & 17.4.5

Tires: MT 275/60-15 rears and MT 26/6-17 fronts

Brakes: Black Brembo 6P fronts with drilled Stoptech rotors. Stoptech rear rotors.

Hood: Cervini 4-inch cowl.

Interior: Ford racing quick release wheel, Speed of sound radio delete with switches/gauges, Kirkey race seat, fatfab seat brackets, Lund racing nGauge.

Engine: Whipple 3.4 crusher, Whipple 170mm mono, 148mm JLT Intake, Bob’s oil separator with upgraded lines, ID1000s, BPS fuel rails, AC delete idler pulley, custom red valve covers, and coil covers, JDM superstock cams, PAC springs, retainers, all new timing components, VMP triple pass H.E, JMS Plug N Play BAP.

Exhaust: Stainless works LT headers, Stainless works High Flo X (High-flo cats have been gutted) QTP electronic cutout system, turn downs

Exterior: 2013/2014 taillights, 13/14 upper/lower grille.

Suspension: Moser built 9-inch, 3.70 gear, full spool, 40 Spline, BMR anti roll bar, panhard bar, panhard bar brace, panhard bar relocation kit, lower control arms, upper control arm, upper control arm mount, tubular k member, a-arms, driveshaft loop, dynotech driveshaft, radiator support, Viking double adj shocks, Strange struts, drag springs.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

biminiLX

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I’d consider having a well respected shop go over it and give a written inspection, or even use a professional appraisal service. That few hundred on a professional appraisal could gain you thousands. This is assuming you have receipts.
Spring is coming and you have a VERY well built car that hasn’t been beat on at the track since building.
Still won’t get all your money back, but I think you’ll do all right.
The Recaros, JDM build and VMP Gen 3 in a good color combo lower mile SVTPP car pretty much make it a top shelf ‘11-12 model.
Anyone serious about finding a ‘11-14 GT500 this spring would likely consider you car, so aim high and hold it for a while.
2020 GT500 production hasn’t even restarted.
Good luck.
-J
 

RBB

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I’d consider having a well respected shop go over it and give a written inspection, or even use a professional appraisal service. That few hundred on a professional appraisal could gain you thousands. This is assuming you have receipts.
Spring is coming and you have a VERY well built car that hasn’t been beat on at the track since building.
Still won’t get all your money back, but I think you’ll do all right.
The Recaros, JDM build and VMP Gen 3 in a good color combo lower mile SVTPP car pretty much make it a top shelf ‘11-12 model.
Anyone serious about finding a ‘11-14 GT500 this spring would likely consider you car, so aim high and hold it for a while.
2020 GT500 production hasn’t even restarted.
Good luck.
-J
Agreed, probably should have a shop look it over/inspect to give the buyer piece of mind. It's been to the track, I'd say I have about 50 passes on it since the build, but it's running great. I'm thinking I might post it up for around $45K and if somebody wants it for that price great, if not I'll just keep it.
 

CobraBob

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Yes, I read a post on another forum that production suspension for the winter break would be through February, and start up again in March.
 

GT500_012308

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fudge! Im local to you swap me motors re coop some money then sell. Shit id even give you my car and cash mine doesn't have a built motor lol.
I would keep it if you don't need the money.

So you want a 13/14 or you talking like 2020 new?
 

RBB

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fudge! Im local to you swap me motors re coop some money then sell. Shit id even give you my car and cash mine doesn't have a built motor lol.
I would keep it if you don't need the money.

So you want a 13/14 or you talking like 2020 new?
I want a 2020. I don’t need the money, but I don’t think it would get much seat time with the new model in the garage and I’m out of garage space anyways.

If I can’t get what I want out of this one I’ll keep it and get a 2020. I’m not going to give it away.
 

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