2011 PCM in 2007 GT500 ?

cossiedriver · Mar 11, 2020

Hi
I´m thinking of switchin my 2007 Iron block to an 2011 Alloy block. That would save me some weight on the front but for this amount of money I would like to get more benefit from this swap and so I would like to use the 2011 PCM also.. Cause the 2011 has knock sensors and wideband O2 sensors, that seems to be a good thing to protect the engine. But I´m not sure if this will work. I´m aware that the wiring has to be redone, I would use the 2011 engine harness, the 2011 body harness and splice it into my existing 2007 harness. But would the communication work (between the 2011 PCM and the 2007ABS Module and the other 2007 components like Anti theft etc..?)
Is there anybody outhere who has done something similar?

Thanks
Joerg

sleek98 · Mar 11, 2020

Email PBH and see if their coyote swap to 3v harness will work. I believe it should convert the 2011 ecu to the 2007 body harness.

The trans and engine harness will need to come from the newer 2011-2014 gt500. I believe the trans harness will need to be changed due to the widebands having an extra wire.

PM-Performance · Mar 11, 2020

Sure you can do it, just needs the correct harnesses.
but here is a little truth for you:
1. Iron blocks are stronger
2. Iron blocks are cheaper to replace
3. You can add widebands and Knock sensors cheaply and easily
4. No knock sensors are really not a big deal.

Do not buy into the hype that an alum block are better other than for weight. I just hate to see people go down the wrong path because they read things on the internet that they maybe did not fully understand.
If I were dead set on having an alum block and all these new tech gadgets, I would just sell my 07 and get an 11+ for less money than to convert the 07

me32 · Mar 12, 2020

PM-Performance said:
Sure you can do it, just needs the correct harnesses.
but here is a little truth for you:
1. Iron blocks are stronger
2. Iron blocks are cheaper to replace
3. You can add widebands and Knock sensors cheaply and easily
4. No knock sensors are really not a big deal.

Do not buy into the hype that an alum block are better other than for weight. I just hate to see people go down the wrong path because they read things on the internet that they maybe did not fully understand.
If I were dead set on having an alum block and all these new tech gadgets, I would just sell my 07 and get an 11+ for less money than to convert the 07

Honestly this is the best advice.

The 07-10 blocks have been proven to be very strong. Its all in the tune. And makes the same power as the 11-12 with aluminum block.

Catmonkey · Mar 12, 2020

PM-Performance said:
1. Iron blocks are stronger

I don't think this is true and I've seen several engine builders confirm that fact. The aluminum block has better webbing and thicker decks for more rigidity. The iron block was designed as a truck block and Ford didn't beef it up for the DOHC heads in the GT500. It's still good for 1,000 hp, but the aluminum block is the recommended choice for higher horsepower. I've also heard the 5.4 is more desirable than the 5.8 as it doesn't have provision for oil squirters that tend to remove material from the block.

PM-Performance · Mar 12, 2020

Catmonkey said:
I don't think this is true and I've seen several engine builders confirm that fact. The aluminum block has better webbing and thicker decks for more rigidity. The iron block was designed as a truck block and Ford didn't beef it up for the DOHC heads in the GT500. It's still good for 1,000 hp, but the aluminum block is the recommended choice for higher horsepower. I've also heard the 5.4 is more desirable than the 5.8 as it doesn't have provision for oil squirters that tend to remove material from the block.

We can try and make points about aluminum all day, but when it comes down to building them and buying them is where it all changes. You don't have to sleeve iron blocks though. It is a very common practice to sleeve alum blocks.
Don't get me wrong, alum blocks are great, but given the choice. . . which I was when I bought the car of my choice, I will choose an iron variant if there is a choice.
That being said, when people go above and beyond for an alum block and widebands and knock sensors because some people on the internet told them its a MUST HAVE and don't really know better, that is where I step in and dispel myths if I can.

If I had an 07-09 car and was hell bent on this stuff (which I know better), I would just sell it for an 11+ car. It would be cheaper and easier, but really be no better than the 07-09 car in all honesty

cossiedriver · Mar 12, 2020

Hi
Thanks for your suggestions ;-)
I´m only thinkin of swapping the block to alloy icause a buddy of mine has 2 of them and I could get one for a reasonable price. Selling my my car isn´t an option for me. It is is totally build by my own and and I think I touched every bit of it since I bought it. I love this car and would never sell it.
The weight savings are not enough to invest that amount of money so I hoped to get some technical advantages out of the newer engine controls...
The maximum power will never exeed 1000hp so this would´nt be an issue (I live in germany and the laws a quite restrictive..) At the moment I have a build steel block (forged rods and pistons, all ARP hardware etc) with a 2.3 TVS it makes 750 crank hp, but a Gen 4 2.9 Whipple is ready to get on the engine) so we´re talking about 850 crank hp I think

Sounds like you guys saved me some money ;-)

Joerg

sleek98 · Mar 12, 2020

If you already have a built block don’t waste your money.

PM-Performance · Mar 12, 2020

cossiedriver said:
Hi
Thanks for your suggestions ;-)
I´m only thinkin of swapping the block to alloy icause a buddy of mine has 2 of them and I could get one for a reasonable price. Selling my my car isn´t an option for me. It is is totally build by my own and and I think I touched every bit of it since I bought it. I love this car and would never sell it.
The weight savings are not enough to invest that amount of money so I hoped to get some technical advantages out of the newer engine controls...
The maximum power will never exeed 1000hp so this would´nt be an issue (I live in germany and the laws a quite restrictive..) At the moment I have a build steel block (forged rods and pistons, all ARP hardware etc) with a 2.3 TVS it makes 750 crank hp, but a Gen 4 2.9 Whipple is ready to get on the engine) so we´re talking about 850 crank hp I think

Sounds like you guys saved me some money ;-)

Joerg

Now that you added this info, do not bother with the block. You already have a bottom end that will eclipse your needs with ease. Save the money for a return style fuel system.
Again, let me be clear no knock sensors are not a negative. Most guys that run full tilt disable them anyway due to false knock and causing more issues than they help. Are they a good tuning tool? Sure. . . but guys like Lund have ZERO issues tuning without knock sensors.
a wideband setup is anywhere from $150-500 depending on how crazy you get. That is all you need. If you want knock sensors, you can add them for maybe $400-500 off the top of my head if it makes you sleep better at night.

Catmonkey · Mar 12, 2020

No argument iron blocks are cheap and plentiful and I wouldn't trade in a built iron block for an aluminum one either. I don't know the feasibility of upgrading the PCM, but I'm doubtful when it comes to interfacing with your dash and gauges. However, if you did want knock control, you might consider this.

cossiedriver · Mar 12, 2020

If seen the vampire before, maybe I will give it a shot in the future.
As for wideband, I do have allready an Aeroforce interceptor with 2 widebands... Just thought that it would be nice to have the PCM read the more acurate data. Its hard to keep an eye on the instruments when you´re going wot on a unlimited highway ;-)
But as stated before, it doesn´t seem to make sense, so I stay with my setup and go to install my 2.9 whipple next ;-)

PM-Performance · Mar 12, 2020

cossiedriver said:
If seen the vampire before, maybe I will give it a shot in the future.
As for wideband, I do have allready an Aeroforce interceptor with 2 widebands... Just thought that it would be nice to have the PCM read the more acurate data. Its hard to keep an eye on the instruments when you´re going wot on a unlimited highway ;-)
But as stated before, it doesn´t seem to make sense, so I stay with my setup and go to install my 2.9 whipple next ;-)

Your pcm reading the data or you watching a gauge makes no difference. If it’s lean it’s lean, if it’s rich it’s rich.
If the tune is on, you really don’t need to look at it anyway. Seeing it on a gauge or dash cluster is moot.

Robert M · Mar 13, 2020

Isn't the 100lbs lighter in the 2011-up nose also due to the EPS vs. the Hyd. P/S? Isn't it the combination of the alum. block AND the EPS that lightens the front? and not just the aluminum block? I am not sure of this, but it seems to me I have read that info. several times, especially back in the 2011/12 time period.................and then in today's world the claims of weight savings are exaggerated to 110lbs, 120lbs, etc., etc.........but nothing has changed since 2011 and I believe Ford/SVT claimed 100lbs lighter in the front when the 2011 was coming to market.

R

Catmonkey · Mar 13, 2020

Robert M said:
Isn't the 100lbs lighter in the 2011-up nose also due to the EPS vs. the Hyd. P/S? Isn't it the combination of the alum. block AND the EPS that lightens the front? and not just the aluminum block? I am not sure of this, but it seems to me I have read that info. several times, especially back in the 2011/12 time period.................and then in today's world the claims of weight savings are exaggerated to 110lbs, 120lbs, etc., etc.........but nothing has changed since 2011 and I believe Ford/SVT claimed 100lbs lighter in the front when the 2011 was coming to market.

No the block alone accounts for 100 lbs difference. I had weight data at one time because I needed to figure out how I was going to unload the assembled short block from the freight truck. So after doing the research, I figured out the weight of the aluminum short block was something two people could easily handle. Ford Performance also touts the weight savings on their website for both the 5.4 and 5.8 aluminum blocks.

Approximately a 100 lb weight savings over the cast iron 5.4L block

Looking these up, I hadn't realized the price had decreased so much for these. Still not cheap, but less expensive than they were a year or two ago.

2011 PCM in 2007 GT500 ?

cossiedriver

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sleek98

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PM-Performance

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me32

BEASTLY SHELBY GT500 TVS

Catmonkey

I Void Warranties!

PM-Performance

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cossiedriver

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sleek98

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PM-Performance

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Catmonkey

I Void Warranties!

cossiedriver

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PM-Performance

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Robert M

800 HORSE FUN!!

Catmonkey

I Void Warranties!

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